2001 740i ---Dilemma I am Left With After Water Pump Replace

[2001red740i]

My Other Interest: 2001 Imola Red 740i with 185,000 miles and approx 165,000 on rebulit engine

I have owned this car since 2004. As I am finding as I read here, mine has been a bitter sweet love affair. Recently I had the water pump replaced and now I have some issues. I will spare the reader with my tales of sorrow and trails of tears of the many thousands that I have spent in repairs over the years. It is for that reason that I seek advise here on whether to sell it, tackle it myself, take her, yet again, to a repair garage and stop on the way home and buy a bottle of JD to comfort me when the call comes. And as a disclaimer: I bear all responsibility for sticking with my stubbornness of owning an E38 and some of the mistakes I have made and regretted in maintaining her. She knows I love to hate her, hate to love her.. love to love her.. hate to hate her.. uno how it goes..

Over all she is a good running and looking babe. I still get compliments on her. Brown leather interior is very good and still makes me swoon (just a little!) top coat needs re-done, tires are pretty good, she will need brakes in in the next 20K miles. rebuilt engine replacement four years ago seems to have gone very well, window regulators replaced, front steering control arms replaced, stereo and speakers replaced, A/C is still pretty good, does not burn or leak oil, still tight and smooth in the corners and I still get a semi chubby when I feel the power of that V8..

As for me, really have never been that much of a motor head, overall pretty handy though and can follow online instructions and am not blind to youtube videos that are greatly appropriated by wild eyed guys like me with a ratchet in one hand and hammer in the other.

Here is what happened... wife called and said "oh honey the car.. I think is over heated... yes, yes, I turned it off... Yes I think it did go to the red line.. but not for two long..
Short of it is the water pump failed and she got it towed home. Although it did over heat I think she got it turned off before any damage was done.
Now, at that time we needed the car fixed right away as we needed to use it, A guy responded to my social media recommendation request, said he was ASE mechanic and said he could come over and replace. (yes, you see my burdening mistake already but see disclaimer above please) He and helper showed up with pump. Said they got it replaced. When I got home from work I started it, water poured out from beneath engine. I followed proper procedure.. shut car off, immediately called "mechanic" and then pondered if I should stop payment on check. To the mechanics credit, he showed up the next day, worked all day and knew better than to ask for more $.
On the restart, I noticed wobbly fan, belt squeal for about 60 seconds until engine settles into idle, and strangely the tell tale sounds of an exhaust leak emanating from what sounds like directly in front of the engine. Other than that, no leaks, no over heating. ("Mechanic" said he had forgot to put the gasket on the replacement pump and that is what caused the leakage earlier) Although I knew I still had issues (and still have the same 6 months later) I sent "mechanic" on his way and cracked a beer.

Tell me I am wrong but I am thinking that exhaust leak could be a huge $ fix and the one thing I should consider first in my dilemma to keep, DIY or send away to repair. Any ides what could be causing it? wobbly fan? Visual inspection shows no chips etc in it. BTW, serpentine belt seems in very good condition but does seem a little loose, When I crawled under her and checked, I thought... I bet with some effort I could slip this off the pully..
The belt squeal on start up to engine idle settle down bothers me and the exhaust leak no longer impresses me since I am older than 16 now.

Any help would be appreciated guys.. She is now the third car. Although she doesn't seem to like that, it takes the pressure off me that I do not HAVE to get this fixed right away.

She is sitting out there now, all high an mighty on car jacks awaiting her fate. Please be gentle guys.. I still love her uno.. but this has to end!

[1999 540i m]

The exhaust leak is likely the secondary air crossover pipe missing a bolt, wobbly fan should be replaced before it kills the new pump, and the belt tensioner is probably loose,

Your mechanic sucks!

[alexisonfire]

The exhaust leak is likely the secondary air crossover pipe missing a bolt, wobbly fan should be replaced before it kills the new pump, and the belt tensioner is probably loose,

Your mechanic sucks!

+1

[acspecialists]

+1, don't dispair the fan may have taken the water pump out in the first place. If it hasn't been done the fan clutch is a common problem. An E65 fan and clutch would be an upgrade. If it were my car I would go out and remove the fan, tension the belt properly, ensure the cossover pipe is in and secured and then install a new fan and clutch. It is not hard work at all. After that I would change the engine mounts, this is the most common most overlooked wear item that eats fans, water pumps, upper hoses and radiators.

It sounds like you have a healthy BMW relationship with your girl and you are in the correct place to get help. If you don't want to turn wrenches figure the problem out on here and take the car in and tell them what you want done. The dunder head that did the water pump could do it but he needs supervision.

[SwallownAmazon]

The dunder head that did the water pump could do it.

I think not! I would not let that twerp near any car of mine.

[Zedbimmer]

The dunder head that did the water pump could do it but he needs supervision.

you and my mother are the only people I know who say dunder head lolol.

[racer2086]

There are so many variables going on in this scenario. First, so many people on facebook with these cars don't know anything about them and they are learning as they go.

I doubt it's an actual exhaust leak. The first question I would ask is did the "mechanic" use a new pump or a used one out of some parts car? The bearing in that "new/used" pump could be bad, which could be the squeal and the crackly noise your hear up front. Could be the secondary air crossover tube loose as mentioned, which with the "mechanic's" sloppiness is very possible. Could also be that the guides broke down with the overheat (not the most likely). But my point is, you want to diagnose the problem before driving further or making a decision.

Question for you: where in FL are you located? I would be happy to look at it for you.

[samsonevickis]

Well if this was 6 months ago then discussing the mechanic is moot.

I mean if you really love the car, have it towed to an actual BMW mechanic. Florida is a big state, surely there is a good independent near you. Not a Meineke or a dealership, but an actual German automotive specialist within 20-50mi. As a BMW mechanic I would never show up to replace a water pump on an M62 engine, anyone here is guessing, I could never accurately diagnose your issue from your description.

Please, it sounds like a good car, just have a professional look it over, he will charge you a diagnostic fee and a tow, if the damage is too bad then you can decide with THAT number if you want to fix it and keep her or list her up.

[2001red740i]

Thanks for all your help guys. I have another question that maybe you guys can help with so that I can make a decision. "Mechanic" said SERVICE ENGINE SOON light is on because he had to remove battery cable and I will have to take her to a dealership to get it reset. Is that right? Any work around?

[inkacola]

May I ask what made you trust that hack of a so called mechanic to work on your car? Anybody can tell you that they're ASE certified just to make a few bucks but more care needs to be taken. Like most on here said, take it to a reputable shop and have it looked at.

[haynes740]

Thanks for all your help guys. I have another question that maybe you guys can help with so that I can make a decision. "Mechanic" said SERVICE ENGINE SOON light is on because he had to remove battery cable and I will have to take her to a dealership to get it reset. Is that right? Any work around?

He should have the diagnostic software to reset service engine soon light. Never had the issue when unhooking my battery. Unless someone is aware of such?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[2001red740i]

May I ask what made you trust that hack of a so called mechanic to work on your car? Anybody can tell you that they're ASE certified just to make a few bucks but more care needs to be taken. Like most on here said, take it to a reputable shop and have it looked at.

Did you read my post? As far as I am concerned, enough said about MY decisions about MY car.

[clarkitect]

Disconnecting the battery isn’t going to make the cel come on. More likely a secondary air system fault due to the crossover pipe issue.

Have you gone out and looked under the hood?

[acspecialists]

Thanks for all your help guys. I have another question that maybe you guys can help with so that I can make a decision. "Mechanic" said SERVICE ENGINE SOON light is on because he had to remove battery cable and I will have to take her to a dealership to get it reset. Is that right? Any work around?

Got to bimmergeeks and get some software and a cable. This is a requirement for any modern car but especially a BMW. You could get a BT OBD reader and check and reset the SES but for the same money you could get the full suite from Bimmergeeks.
Disconnecting the battery would clear not cause the SES to come on. Most importantly you want to know what the code is. This does not require anything more than a few buck and some research. When you have problems it will always be the first question. I use INPA and really dig all of the features because it is the factory software.

[2001red740i]

Got it. Thanks guys. I will be back..

[2001red740i]

Ok, I’m back. I decided to rekindle the relationship and we are getting along just peachy. Thanks to your guys advice I got up the confidence to DIY, and showed her some love.

I went ahead and bought the $25 clutch fan special tool. Well worth it for us novice wrench turners. Ordered fan, fan clutch and because I was having problems with “check coolant” alert coming on I ordered a new expansion tank thinking the float was bad. I dug in..

All went smooth except for that secondary air crossover pipe. I found that was the noise problem. Dunderhead “mechanic” broke the bolt bracket off. I found it, ran up to the weld shop and had it welded back on for about what it cost for a new one. I didn’t care though. I was on a roll! With time, cussing, sweat and some blood loss. I got it back in. I even pulled the radiator out as dunderhead had left off one of the support blocks off and it was setting cockeyed.
I carved a new one out of an old bobber and it worked fine. I tightened the serpentine belt from instructions found here. Filled her up with anti freeze/water, found the bleeder valve on the top of the expansion tank and soon she was purring our special love song. Even the check engine soon light disappeared as you guys suggested.

Now I’m feeling confident to the point of cockiness, to tackle other issues.

Although she is running fine, no overheat.. the “check coolant alert still come on. I over filled it some and the plunger float raises just a little above the cap. Could that be the problem? Any other ideas why it alerts?

[haynes740]

Ok, I’m back. I decided to rekindle the relationship and we are getting along just peachy. Thanks to your guys advice I got up the confidence to DIY, and showed her some love.

I went ahead and bought the $25 clutch fan special tool. Well worth it for us novice wrench turners. Ordered fan, fan clutch and because I was having problems with “check coolant” alert coming on I ordered a new expansion tank thinking the float was bad. I dug in..

All went smooth except for that secondary air crossover pipe. I found that was the noise problem. Dunderhead “mechanic” broke the bolt bracket off. I found it, ran up to the weld shop and had it welded back on for about what it cost for a new one. I didn’t care though. I was on a roll! With time, cussing, sweat and some blood loss. I got it back in. I even pulled the radiator out as dunderhead had left off one of the support blocks off and it was setting cockeyed.
I carved a new one out of an old bobber and it worked fine. I tightened the serpentine belt from instructions found here. Filled her up with anti freeze/water, found the bleeder valve on the top of the expansion tank and soon she was purring our special love song. Even the check engine soon light disappeared as you guys suggested.

Now I’m feeling confident to the point of cockiness, to tackle other issues.

Although she is running fine, no overheat.. the “check coolant alert still come on. I over filled it some and the plunger float raises just a little above the cap. Could that be the problem? Any other ideas why it alerts?

Great job man, I also had to take my crossover pipe to welding shop a while back for that bolt bracket. It could take a few days to get that coolant level correct. Keep checking the level overnight cold before startup.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[2001red740i]

Thanks Haynes, yeah I am kinda proud of myself.. but here is one I should have done my due diligence on before tearing into it. Windshield washer nozzles. I replaced the hose as it actually fell apart on inspection. But then I decided to open the heated nozzle and lost one of the little green plungers? And that little spring is broke. Should I just replace or is there repair kits available? I hate to spend $38 per nozzle and that’s all I could find to buy.

[SwallownAmazon]

Thanks Haynes, yeah I am kinda proud of myself.. but here is one I should have done my due diligence on before tearing into it. Windshield washer nozzles. I replaced the hose as it actually fell apart on inspection. But then I decided to open the heated nozzle and lost one of the little green plungers? And that little spring is broke. Should I just replace or is there repair kits available? I hate to spend $38 per nozzle and that’s all I could find to buy.

That's one of the first jobs I did on my car as one of the nozzle's valves was missing allowing the washer fluids to mix and blow out of the top of the fluid tank. Two years ago, new one cost me about the same in GBP as you quote in USD so that's deflation for you. When I took the other one apart to clean 18 years of accumulated gunge out of it, I did so inside a box with a lid on to retain any of the springs, etc. See this for advice:

http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E31/Washers...eplacement.htm

In doing the job, I also changed the pipes between the nozzles and seciured them to the nozzles with wee cable ties so thay don't come off. SFAIK, there are no repair kits.

As to bleeding the cooling system, as mentioned many times here and in UK, follow Tim Meek's spot-on advice here:

http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e38/E38_Ble...ing_System.htm

[goinstrong]

I will see if I can find the link for TIMM's method to bleed these engines. I was struggling to get mine bled properly, and he sent a link with his procedure. It worked the first time! Stay tuned...

- - - Updated - - -

Here is the link from TIMM:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Lb6...ature=youtu.be

[acspecialists]

Now you are a true E38 owner, while frustrating it is really 50% of the fun and satisfaction of owning the car.

As for filling and bleeding the cooling system Timm's method works. Get the front of the car uphill or on ramps. After filling through the upper radiator hose over fill the expansion tank. Run the car and let the pressure build a bit then open the bleed screw and let the air come out. Make sure the climate control is set to max.

The cap has two stages, the first stage vents the system into the expansion tank(bleed screw) and the second stage will relive the pressure out of the system, BMW BS. You will split a hose before the second stage relives. Never, ever take the cap off with the engine off, the coolant will flow back to the expansion take. Check the level with the system cold right after you start the engine.

[2001red740i]

Her and I are having some problems...

After bragging about her, showing her off on a couple of extended road trips.. driving her to work for weeks, she gives me this...

Left work, down the road only about 4 miles and happen to notice my temp gauge was pegged hot. Immediately, shut her off and coasted to a stop. Engine did not seem that hot at all and after just a little while was able to open expansion cap and found plenty of coolant. Engine would turn over, but not start. Called tow truck, told him not to worry as she was all to familiar with how to get up there for her ride home. Now, for what it’s worth, I don’t actually think she ever got that hot and 3 weeks of testing since then I have not seen any indication that the engine is over heating. I think I have a sensor problem of some kind but hell, idk. Next morning, I checked coolant, started her, run her front up on car ramps and told her she will just sit there and watch the big blue truck ride me around until she starts behaving.

She starts cold, temp gauge hesitates at what I believe is correct engine temp, then pegs hot. I watched and applied Timms coolant system bleeding procedure video that you guys recommended. Check engine coolant level alert still comes on but I think I have her bled pretty good.

Something else.. as I am looking at my dash cluster information, I notice that what I believe to be the outside temp indicator is showing — 10 F. Although some of my pixels are bad and maybe I am not seeing it correctly but I’m in Fl! It’s not that cold!

I’ve been reading here about how to unlock the cluster panel.. etc, but thought I would ask for a little advise before I start bumbling around in there.

Truth is, I was kinda liking driving her daily and would like to patch things up between us if I could. Don’t tell her.

[2001red740i]

Anyone care to weigh in?

[Timm]

Yes, the wiring loom to the temperature-mapped thermostat has melted into the temperature sensor loom - and the main DME fuse has popped - all explained here:

https://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/BMW_M6...e_Problems.htm