4hp24 swap

[tsmcg161]

Im going to swap the transmission in my 750il. My old transmission has an 8 pin plug. The donor I got only has a 7 pin plug. Will my 8 pin valve body work on the donor transmission.

[shogun]

http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/gear...rbox_swap.html
swap the valve body with wiring loom. Then you can use the old TCU (behind passenger side speaker in footwell) and the wire loom from there to the trans connector/connector.
Other way would probably also work, I assume, use the TCU and the wire loom from the donor car and use the newer 7-pin valve body from the donor 4HP24.

[tsmcg161]

TCM from donor car is not an option. Its not available. What exactly changed when they went from 8 pin to 7?

[shogun]

explained here from page 24 http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Troubl...ch%20Guide.pdf
The 1st version, designated Early "E-7", has 5 solenoids on the valve body, was introduced in 1986 and used up thru 1989. This version includes a solenoid for reverse lockout.
The 2nd version, designated Late "E-7", has 5 solenoids on the valve body, was introduced in 1988 and used up thru Mid-1989. This version includes a solenoid for reverse lockout.
The 3rd version, designated "E-9", has 4 solenoids on the valve body, was introduced in Mid-1989 and used up thru 1994. This version uses a shift solenoid for the reverse lockout function.

[tsmcg161]

Would you know if the 5 solenoid and the 4 solenoid use the same valve body?

[shogun]

you mean the valve body plates? See above link and compare the drawings between these 3 versions, there are about 30 pages of drawings. I personally would swop the cpl. valve body and a new control unit.
Find a online pdf parts list and compare all the part numbers.
Or Contact ZF NA with all the details in the name tag on the side of the transmission, that means type, serial number and Stucklistennummer = parts list number, they can send you the parts list and the diagrams for that specific Stucklistennummer with drawings where the check balls are, which plate gasket number you need etc., ask that for both transmissions and then they can send you the parts list in detail for each valve body.
Or http://www.erikssonindustries.com/ is ZF authorized ZF distributor, if you order the parts there, they will probably also be able to send you this lists, if you ask there.

download this http://gershon.ucoz.com/ZF/powertrain-zf.pdf

Another option might be to rebuild your existing original trans and valve body.

[whiskychaser]

Maybe check the wiring diagrams for the 1989 750i? The only difference appears to be that the 7 pin does not have the reverse lockout solenoid. Except for that, the shift matrix, loom colours and pinouts on the TCM and VB are all the same. Of course, if you leave the wire for the lockout solenoid disconnected, the TCM will probably throw trans prog when it doesn't find it. You might be able to trick it into thinking there is one by introducing a resistor of the same value as the solenoid. Of course, reverse lock out will not work as it is designed to do though. It is just a theory though you might be able to test it by connecting up to the 'new' trans without even installing it

[tsmcg161]

Got the donor transmission washed and resealed. Waiting on new torque converter to arrive. Path of least resistance is to just swap the 7 pin valve body with the 8 pin. Ive also purchased an engine with 68k miles on it that is going to be installed at the same time. Ive got 4k on the engine I just did the top end on and Ive still got a very bad oil consumption problem. Burns a qt. every 300 miles. 268k on her and her time is up.

[shogun]

did you change the VCV/PCV Valves ? http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/vc.../VCVvalves.htm
years ago I have high oil consumption, made a oil catcher to test , scroll down here for pics http://twrite.org/shogunnew/upgrades&fun/cutestuff.html
then replaced these and problem of oil consumption was solved:
11151720392 vacuum hose left 1
11151720393 vacuum hose right 1
11151720131 non return valve 2
11151718642 2 stage valve left 1
11151718713 2 stage valve right 1

[tsmcg161]

On that top end rebuild I lapped all the valves and removed all the carbon. I also replaced all the valve stem seals and both CVC valves. Head gaskets, timing chain and tensioner were also replaced. Also cleaned out the "j" hooks inside the valve covers. All that can be left is the oil rings. Compression I checked the other day is 175psi on all twelve, yet 6 of the new plugs were badly oil fouled and Im smoking blue out the exhaust on take offs. Engine runs good, less the oil consumption.

[shogun]

Patrick on Bimmerboard had many years ago the same problem, made all the things as you did, replaced CVC valves, intake re-seal etc, he even installed a oil trap, quote:
quote: New modification to trap oil in my PCV system
I continue to notice oil consumption after the last modification to the PCV where I connected the crankcase through the original PCV valve setup to a long hose that eventually plugged into the intake manifold on the passenger side. Driver side PCV was totally plugged with kapton (high temperature) tape. Oil consumption was not gradual, unlike last year, but seemed to have happened in a step change when I drove at 80 mph for half an hour one day last week. At 65 mph or below oil consumption was not that obvious. There are theories that suspected oil film could still be dragged up the long PCV hose, particularly when all the blowby had to go through one hose instead of two, thus doubling the air speed. Furthermore, I did not consider the fact that even with gravity, oil entered the PCV hose may not be allow to drain back through the valve since I don't know the internal mechanism of the PCV valve. To find out if any oil film has moved through the PCV system I now added a cylindrical glass jar (found in kitchen) with a screw-on metal lid. Two big holes were drilled on the lid, right-angle adapters were mounted and tightly sealed with Teflon paste. Inlet inside jar is extended to near bottom with a 3/4 inch ID heater hose section, so any oil film movement should aggregate into oil drops and eventually falls to the jar's bottom. I wrapped the jar with a cotton towel to prevent breakage; and wrapped the towel with several rounds of kitchen plastic food wraps. Plastic wrap is great because they can withstand temperature near boiling water. We all have witnessed that inside the microwave oven.
Key observations so far:
1) The glass jar has not imploded under the vacuum condition presented by the intake.
2) After I took the below photo this morning after 30 miles of 65 mph and city driving, I pulled the jar out from the towel cushion and found absolutely no oil on the bottom!
3) When I cut off excessive length of hose this morning I stick my pinky in the openings and they were pretty dry inside. 2) and 3) together seem to suggest oil was consumed elsewhere.
So I have to keep driving until the LOW OIL LEVEL warning message shows up, and keep checking the jar for oil. Unless someone tells me that the oil is carried away in a mist or vapor form thus won't collect in the bottom, this setup will give me the most definitive answer of whether oil is consumed through the intake, or through rings and valve seals. unquote
home made separator http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/167777/

finally he did the piston rings and that solved the problem, here with pics http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/440624/
Finally passed CA smog check http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/440862

[tsmcg161]

Finally got the donor engine and transmission installed. There's a huge difference in the way it runs and shifts. Got this engine/ tranny combo from Vivander German out of Ohio with only 63k on her. My old tranny has a 7 pin valve body, I thought it had an 8 pin. The valve body plug on my car is an 8 pin. The donor tranny also has a 7 pin valve body. Id been running a 7 pin valve body on a 8 pin valve body plug for a couple of years. Point is that there was no "Trans error message" at any time. Even with new donor 7 pin trans has no error message. Thank to all who helped me with this.