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Thread: 88C Thermostat for Non-Vanos M62??

  1. #26
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    get the 85ºC if you're in for performance. 95ªC if you're in for reducing the cooling system operating temperature wihtout losing some MPG figures.
    Diehard E39 driver.
    I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
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  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by jicaino View Post
    get the 85ºC if you're in for performance. 95ªC if you're in for reducing the cooling system operating temperature wihtout losing some MPG figures.
    Thanks for all your help. I'll make a decision later today.

  3. #28
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    And yes you can get an 87C tstat in your adapter from Abbes-Performance. Just contact them through eBay and they'll give you whatever temp tstat you want.

  4. #29
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    One more question. Would a low temp thermostat effect my emissions? In terms of passing smog. I'm in CA.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by baneoh View Post
    One more question. Would a low temp thermostat effect my emissions? In terms of passing smog. I'm in CA.
    what are they asking re. threshold levels? my car with no cats, no SAP, big runners manifold, Alpina B10V8 tune and it's a tad on the "fat" side of the mapping passes with just a 65% increment over the stock levels which are really low compared with what I have to comply.
    Diehard E39 driver.
    I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
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  6. #31
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    I went with the 85C. Part #11 53 1 742 964

    From what I've read, gas mileage doesn't suffer much, if at all. I'm interested to see.

    I was also concerned about smog here in CA, but I just got my registration renewal and I don't have to do it till next year so that's future Ben's problem.

  7. #32
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    good call... don't even think about 95c tstat, it's useless because it being 95c doesn't mean your engine will be operating @ 95c. it only means 95c is the temp where it starts to open. it will probably be between 100-105c.

    85c tstat is to way to go to achieve low 90s.

    I have 88c installed on my TU, engine temp fluctuates between 95-102c depending on road conditions. I'm definitely not happy. I'll be replacing it with even a lower temp tstat in the future to achieve high 80s to low 90s.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiesTorN View Post
    good call... don't even think about 95c tstat, it's useless because it being 95c doesn't mean your engine will be operating @ 95c. it only means 95c is the temp where it starts to open. it will probably be between 100-105c.

    85c tstat is to way to go to achieve low 90s.

    I have 88c installed on my TU, engine temp fluctuates between 95-102c depending on road conditions. I'm definitely not happy. I'll be replacing it with even a lower temp tstat in the future to achieve high 80s to low 90s.
    Your thermostat isn't relevant when it comes to analyze why you're seeing mid 90's. Your radiator is. If you have a 88ºC and your rad was any good you'd be fluctuating between 87º and 91/2º.
    Also tstats are rated at temp they're fully open.
    My car with a 88ªC and a 20 liters radiator is permanently operating around 90º, minus when it's really hot outside and there's a lot of traffic stop/go with A/C on involved, in that case it operates between 90º and 95º.
    Diehard E39 driver.
    I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
    ​"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by jicaino View Post
    Your thermostat isn't relevant when it comes to analyze why you're seeing mid 90's. Your radiator is. If you have a 88ºC and your rad was any good you'd be fluctuating between 87º and 91/2º.
    Also tstats are rated at temp they're fully open.
    My car with a 88ªC and a 20 liters radiator is permanently operating around 90º, minus when it's really hot outside and there's a lot of traffic stop/go with A/C on involved, in that case it operates between 90º and 95º.
    LOL.

    I thought someone was gonna say something similar. assumptions assumptions....

    no, my cooling system's condition is perfect. replaced every part of it last year. radiator is nissens hot climate version (which has considerably larger water capacity than stock). nothing changed when I switched to hot climate version. still same engine temp.

    my friend also has this 88c tstat and he is alsogetting similar temps. so no problems in mine. 88c will get you higher 90s at best.

    and no, tstats are NOT rated for fully open. they are rated for "starts to open". do some research.

    another reason is not all 88c tstats are the same. they all have different tolerances. it says 88c, but while one of them starts opening at 88c, another one could start to open at 83c, or even 91c. I think mine is at the higher end of that manufacturing tolerance.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiesTorN View Post
    LOL.

    I thought someone was gonna say something similar. assumptions assumptions....

    no, my cooling system's condition is perfect. replaced every part of it last year. radiator is nissens hot climate version (which has considerably larger water capacity than stock). nothing changed when I switched to hot climate version. still same engine temp.

    my friend also has this 88c tstat and he is alsogetting similar temps. so no problems in mine. 88c will get you higher 90s at best.

    and no, tstats are NOT rated for fully open. they are rated for "starts to open". do some research.

    another reason is not all 88c tstats are the same. they all have different tolerances. it says 88c, but while one of them starts opening at 88c, another one could start to open at 83c, or even 91c. I think mine is at the higher end of that manufacturing tolerance.
    BMW thermostats aren't rated "close until (temp)" as some old and american manufacturers rate them. They're "full flow at (temp)"
    I'm not asuming anything. You are. I just tell you what I've seen on 3 540i with the 88ºC tstat.
    Do you have your viscofan in place? Operating temp is a tad higher with the viscofan in place, believe it or not. Using the PWM aux as only fan will give optimal cooling, the viscofan, in a car with 88ºC tstat, is to be left in the car for improving the A/C cooling capacity on heavy traffic, stop and go, and city driving generally speaking.
    re. the Nissens "hot climate version" it's around 15% larger than the regular one. Still smaller than the M5 radiator and definitely smaller than the one I had built. BTW if I had switched to the 88ºC tstat I wouldn't have spent an arm and a leg on a radiator, I'd have sayed OEM.
    Did you do a pressure check on the system? the heater valve sometimes creates a leak that's not enough for be detected as a big leak, yet elevates the temp off the cooling system, especially when you're driving under heavy loads/high speeds/hot climate conditions (when you actually need the cooling system pressurization to be 100% OK to provide that extra safety margin that pressurized coolant brings to the table)

    - - - Updated - - -

    btw all my tstats are behr genuine made in germany... I suspect/asume you and you friend sourced the tstat from the same supplier?
    btwII I'd double and triple check until I find the leak I suspect your cooling system has. Some o-ring or gasket may be leaking enough to elevate operating temps a couple of degrees.
    btw3 (if auto tranny) are you still using the coolant/ATF exchanger?
    Diehard E39 driver.
    I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
    ​"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"

  11. #36
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    you might be right about the heater valve. it's one of the few things I haven't replaced on this car. I have the parts tho, gonna be replacing that and rebuilding the aux water pump in a few weeks. gonna check if engine temp improves (probably won't)

    Quote Originally Posted by jicaino View Post
    BTW if I had switched to the 88ºC tstat I wouldn't have spent an arm and a leg on a radiator, I'd have sayed OEM.
    dunno why u said that. I bought it for around $120 if I'm remembering right, which is an okay price. some cities here can reach 40c temperature so having a hot climate radiator is a better choice.

    btw3 (if auto tranny) are you still using the coolant/ATF exchanger?
    yeah, unfortunately nowadays I don't have the money to mess with it much. just using it as it is but my main goal is to keep the exchanger and reduce the temperature by modifying the tranny tstat. we are experimenting on the tstat (on a spare one). we found a shop that makes springs. gonna have them make a lower tension spring for the tranny tstat and try reducing it's opening temp. main problem with this stupid system is the tstat itself. it has a very high opening temp.
    Last edited by TiesTorN; 02-06-2020 at 04:22 PM.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiesTorN View Post
    you might be right about the heater valve. it's one of the few things I haven't replaced on this car. I have the parts tho, gonna be replacing that and rebuilding the aux water pump in a few weeks. gonna check if engine temp improves (probably won't)
    I bet there's leakage there. Not much but some. When you remove the solenoids you'll most likely find failed seals and rusty plungers.


    dunno why u said that. I bought it for around $120 if I'm remembering right, which is an okay price. some cities here can reach 40c temperature so having a hot climate radiator is a better choice.
    I had Wizard Cooling from the USA building me an all alloy radiator with twice the core the 540i has. It costed me a lot and then importing it was almost as much as what I spent. We have those kind of temps in the summer down here too, so you'll get why I was extra antsy about the operating temp.

    yeah, unfortunately nowadays I don't have the money to mess with it much. just using it as it is but my main goal is to keep the exchanger and reduce the temperature by modifying the tranny tstat. we are experimenting on the tstat (on a spare one). we found a shop that makes springs. gonna have them make a lower tension spring for the tranny tstat and try reducing it's opening temp. main problem with this stupid system is the tstat itself. it has a very high opening temp.
    With the temp range you see, and especially if you like to pound on the gas, I'd recommend you revert back to the air/ATF exchanger. You'll be amazed. On hot climates, the car feels like it's about to blow (using the OE configuration of tstat and tranny exchanger for the TU car) when you convert to the 88ºC and the air/ATF cooler it feels like a regular run of the mill car. You stop smelling things and worrying.
    Diehard E39 driver.
    I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
    ​"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by edjack View Post
    The engine is designed to run circa 105 deg C.
    No disrespect intended, but not really. That's the default temp when the MAP function isn't opening thermostat at a lower temp. In these engines, the thermostat can open as low as 85C, under load. So we're still in the range that the engine was designed for.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by R Shaffner View Post
    No disrespect intended, but not really. That's the default temp when the MAP function isn't opening thermostat at a lower temp. In these engines, the thermostat can open as low as 85C, under load. So we're still in the range that the engine was designed for.
    it's 80c afaik, not 85

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiesTorN View Post
    it's 80c afaik, not 85
    Yes, you're right. I've seen two BMW charts on this. One shows a range of 85-110C, to illustrate the concept, but the other shows the thermostat starting to open as low as 80C.

  16. #41
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    Long-time lurker, first comment here....do you guys know if the 85C Tropical Climate Gulf version, 840i (BMW 11531742964) will fit the M62TU?

    I have a 2003 540i Msport....trying to lower the temp and debating between the 85C and 88C (11512248542)

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThePhantom! View Post
    Long-time lurker, first comment here....do you guys know if the 85C Tropical Climate Gulf version, 840i (BMW 11531742964) will fit the M62TU?

    I have a 2003 540i Msport....trying to lower the temp and debating between the 85C and 88C (11512248542)
    Hose connection is not compatible. TU uses quick connect. This one is old style clamp type
    98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!

  18. #43
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    Thanks philly98540. I just posted a thread looking for the resistor to plug into the wiring harness. I cannot seem to find the correct part number....do you happen to know what resistor is correct to plug the wiring harness into? Thanks very much.

  19. #44
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    I post something on your other thread.
    98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!

  20. #45
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    So I have a 1997 540i6 non vanos that was running at 107-109c which was hotter than I wanted.

    Here is what I did:

    1. Buy the 88c M62TU thermostat from ECS Tuning part no 11512248542
    2. Gut the stat from the housing (I used a pair of channel locks and a vise with a c clamp, quite a contraption but it worked flawlessly)
    3. Remove your current housing and take out the 107 stat from inside
    4. Replace it with the 88.
    5. Bleed your cooling system like 3 times at least and be careful not to fill your coolant bottle to the very top, lots of threads discussing this. Bout half is fine or just so the yellow bobbler is level with the top.


    There is a Danish guy doing it this way on youtube. I leave the plug disconnected on the housing for the heater wire and it does not cause a check engine light. This will cost you the least I believe, and get your car running at 91-92c once the cooling system is properly bled. Here is a video from our danish pal:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0bz0vyrWYyA

    Alternatively, on my search to make the non vanos m62 run cooler I made the mistake of purchasing the kit from Abbes performance. Thing is it wasn't really a mistake its just that it took over 3 months to arrive here in Kansas... I have received the part now and it looks to be a nice unit but i have no use for it. DM if you want it. I ordered an 87c but they sent me an 80c which also annoyed the hell out of me.
    post pics of your car - not so we can help, just because we are a simple bunch and pics get us excited

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dunkan View Post
    So I have a 1997 540i6 non vanos that was running at 107-109c which was hotter than I wanted.

    Here is what I did:

    1. Buy the 88c M62TU thermostat from ECS Tuning part no 11512248542
    2. Gut the stat from the housing (I used a pair of channel locks and a vise with a c clamp, quite a contraption but it worked flawlessly)
    3. Remove your current housing and take out the 107 stat from inside
    4. Replace it with the 88.
    5. Bleed your cooling system like 3 times at least and be careful not to fill your coolant bottle to the very top, lots of threads discussing this. Bout half is fine or just so the yellow bobbler is level with the top.


    There is a Danish guy doing it this way on youtube. I leave the plug disconnected on the housing for the heater wire and it does not cause a check engine light. This will cost you the least I believe, and get your car running at 91-92c once the cooling system is properly bled. Here is a video from our danish pal:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0bz0vyrWYyA

    Alternatively, on my search to make the non vanos m62 run cooler I made the mistake of purchasing the kit from Abbes performance. Thing is it wasn't really a mistake its just that it took over 3 months to arrive here in Kansas... I have received the part now and it looks to be a nice unit but i have no use for it. DM if you want it. I ordered an 87c but they sent me an 80c which also annoyed the hell out of me.
    For non-vanos, this 85 deg stat bolts right up. Its what I've been running for many years. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/11531742964/

    For some strange reason some cars will get a CEL when you disconnect the original MAP thermostat. Some cars never get the CEL. Its some variation in the coding with specific cars. If you get the code, you need to connect a resistor to fake the computer out.
    98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!

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