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Thread: The Story of Big Red (and my to do list for this summer) advice/suggestions welcome.

  1. #26
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    So, Big Red is running like a champ at the moment. (vigorously knocking on wood) and it was a nice day so I decided to start working on getting the front bumper repaired. (There was an incident on the interstate involving a de-laminated truck tread) I got the bumper off with very little effort. It helped that said incident had already sheered off many of the plastic pieces holding the bumper to all of the other plastic parts. It looks like I'm going to need to replace the left front fender liner as a big chunk of it is missing. No problem finding it on RealOEM. Unfortunately it looks like I'm also going to need to replace a piece that attaches to it (see the link here: https://youtu.be/0Typr1lPrfY?t=47 the "separate piece" from the fender liner) but I can't find that rascal anywhere. Any thoughts?

    It also looks like the bumper is going to need a *lot* of work. (and 2 part epoxy, and fiberglass reinforcements etc) I don't necessarily mind putting the work in, but at the end of the day I'm still going to have a patched together bumper. I can't justify the price of a new one, though. But if anyone stumbles upon a front bumper in decent shape for a decent price that you don't need, give me a shout.

    Edit: Well, I was hoping to get the complete bumper assembly, but the more I'm looking at it, the more I think I'm better off just getting the naked bumper, and taking off all of my trim pieces and reassembling everything. So I've gone ahead and ordered the naked bumper (much more palatable price) and started pulling the trim pieces, PDC sensors, etc off of my old one. Still looking for that other piece that connects the fender liner to the bumper.
    Last edited by hmmurdock; 03-05-2020 at 08:57 PM.

  2. #27
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  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkitect View Post
    Yes! That's the one! Thank you! I was looking in "Trim" (front bumper) and "Bodywork" (where I found the adjoining fender liner) but never thought to look in "Air Ducts" Bonus, it appears to be a surprisingly affordable piece of IMP. Huzah!


    Edit: Okay, next question... That diagram shows the front right brake air duct PN: 51718125968
    But the diagram here: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_2129 Shows PN: 51118150764

    FCP Euro has both items, and they're the same price. Anyone have any idea what the difference is and which one I should be ordering?

    Edit2: They look similar in the diagrams, (and are named similarly) but actually googling the PN and looking at the images, I determined they are different parts, and I needed the latter. Everything is on order to finish the front bumper repair. Huzah again!

    Thanks!
    Last edited by hmmurdock; 03-06-2020 at 11:57 AM.

  4. #29
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    Yeah one is for pre-facelift and one for facelift. You're on the right track, but still no pictures
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  5. #30
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    What's the recommended pic hosting site around here? I did actually take a few pics so I'll get 'em posted sometime soon.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by hmmurdock View Post
    What's the recommended pic hosting site around here? I did actually take a few pics so I'll get 'em posted sometime soon.
    I use postimages.org. Seems to work fine.
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  7. #32
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    I'm still working on pictures, but here is the current parts list for the front bumper repair:

    51118125303 Front Bumper Trim
    51118150763 Air brake channel front left
    51118150764 Air brake channel front right
    51118125308 Right insert (holds the part of the bumper that wraps around to the sides)
    51718150449 Lower left engine compartment cover

    51718150450 Lower right engine compartment cover
    51118164813 Gasket (fits to the top lip of the bumper towards the engine) I'm hoping the RealOEM description is wrong or shipping is going to be a nightmare for that thing (300kg)
    51718150289 Cover, wheel housing, front left (fender liner)

    I honestly have no idea how the lower grill survived but it's in fine shape. I also need to replace both fog lamps. I'm looking at aftermarket LED to match the factory HIDs if anyone has any suggestions.
    Both washer jets are also broken but I don't think that was due to the accident, but they're being replaced as well.

    The cost of this is starting to add up, but still not nearly as bad as I thought it would be. I think the most expensive single Item I'm going to be getting is the Imola paint. That stuff is expensive no matter where you get it.

  8. #33
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    2000 E38 740i Sport
    Quote Originally Posted by hmmurdock View Post
    I also need to replace both fog lamps. I'm looking at aftermarket LED to match the factory HIDs if anyone has any suggestions.
    The cost of this is starting to add up, but still not nearly as bad as I thought it would be. I think the most expensive single Item I'm going to be getting is the Imola paint. That stuff is expensive no matter where you get it.
    You will probably also need the little clips that retain the foglamps. The previous owner of my car (a very old friend who died suddenly three years ago) "rear-ended" it a couple of times and one of my foglamps fell off because that little plastic clip was broken and not replaced when the car was shunted. There is one each side and they are "handed". Part Nos 63178352815 and 63178352816

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by SwallownAmazon View Post
    You will probably also need the little clips that retain the foglamps. The previous owner of my car (a very old friend who died suddenly three years ago) "rear-ended" it a couple of times and one of my foglamps fell off because that little plastic clip was broken and not replaced when the car was shunted. There is one each side and they are "handed". Part Nos 63178352815 and 63178352816
    They're currently sitting in my table saw in my garage, and surprisingly enough they both appear to be intact and fully functional. I did end up losing both fog lights (one during the accident, the other was just a couple of days ago) but I think the bumper took the worse of the abuse and it completely split along the bottom and all of the support pieces that are typically hidden by the lower grill also broke. That opened up the fog light openings so much that the retention mechanism had no hope of keeping them in. Originally the bottom hadn't completely separated, but the other day it decided to let go which I suspect is when the other fog light decided to abandon ship. I'm hoping no one has to drive it the next couple of weeks (see below) but I wanted to get it patched up as best I could before I have an opportunity to install the new stuff. That said, I've done some unthinkable things to this car to keep it together. (there currently isn't any duct tape on it, ignoring any old residue, but the bottom of the bumper is currently stitched up with zip ties... quite literally, but it's just a stop-gap)

    I ended up making multiple orders at FCPEuro and ECS tuning (kept finding more broken parts) and before I made the last order that was one of the things I checked. There was also an "uh oh, I'm not sure if I know how to put humpty dumpty back together again" moment with those clips and the brake ducts, but I got it all figured out.

    So here's another question, Since Big Red is the emergency standby car for me as well as a few other people I try to keep her roadworthy as much as possible. Driving without a bumper in this state is very much frowned upon so I put the old one back, without connecting any of the wires or plumbing So I know PDC and washer fluid won't work. Fog lights aren't installed so no worries there. But the brake ducts aren't installed. Should that cause any major issues for very light driving should someone need it while I'm out of town?

  10. #35
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    So, I've been off this week because of the zombocalypse, but unfortunately the rain here has prevented me from doing much on the exterior of Big Red. That said, I am making some progress on removing everything from the old bumper to transfer to the new bumper. So, yay me. Unfortunately I noticed something a bit alarming on the driveway while I was pulling the bumper. I have several small spots (not one large puddle) of the dreaded chocolate milk sludge. So the first thing I did was check the coolant, and it appeared to be clean. Next I checked the oil dipstick, and the oil fill cap to see if I could see any sign of contamination there... nothing. Everything looked clean.

    Is it possible I just had some engine oil drip onto some other guck on the driveway that caused it to do that? Unfortunately I don't have a lift, or jack stands, so I can't really get under the car to see anything, but looking from the top side, there is just the usual amount of dirty engine oil coming from the usual places.

    On a scale from 1-10, how alarmed should I be? Anytime I see the chocolate milk that makes me think "10" but since the crankcase and coolant booth seem clean, I feel like "10" might be a little pessimistic. Any thoughts?

  11. #36
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    Must be something else. Can you park in a different spot? Some ramps would be key. Maybe look down to see if there's any of this sludge resting on the lower engine cover.
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  12. #37
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    I did move it to the other side of the driveway, so I'm going to monitor the puddles and see what develops. Am I wrong to be at least partially encouraged that the cooling system and crack case don't appear to be contaminated?

  13. #38
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    So, it was brought to my attention that some folks might want to know how to get the bumper of these critters. So while mine was off a took a few pics...

    First of all, be aware of these alignment guides. If you put too much torque on these while removing or reinstalling the bumper you'll likely break the plastic guides on the bumper. (The good news is they aren't expensive if you do)



    I'd also, recommend removing your fog lights first. You'll have to at te very least unplug them, but considering how easy it is to pop 'em out ahead of time, it'll save you some frustration later.

    Next you need to remove the two t45 torx bolts that hold the bumper to the frame. They are accessed from underneath and may require the use of additional leverage if your car has been exposed to wintery conditions. I don't have pictures of this assembled, but you can see the two posts just underneath inside corner of the headlight, below.




    Once you get the bolts out you can slide the bumper forward so you can disconnect all of the pertinent connections. (PDC sensors, headlight washer plumbing, fog lights if you skipped that above) Again, be careful not to put too much torque on the side guides. (a helper, or some blocks to help support everything would make it much easier)

    PDC sensors should be pretty easy to find since they can be seen from the front. The headlight washer plumbing can be disconnected from the passenger side. (see below)




    And that should get your bumper free. Follow the same steps in revers order to get 'er back on.

  14. #39
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    Wow, you have a lot of room to work with. On the 750 everything on the left is also on the right (air intake etc.). Did you lose your air intake foam support or already removed to pics?


    2001 750iL DD74441
    E65 fan & clutch, E65 headrests, Front First Aid Kit, Ultimate Cup holder

    2005 X5 4.8is LE82680
    Stock

    RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
    H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheAngryBear View Post
    Wow, you have a lot of room to work with. On the 750 everything on the left is also on the right (air intake etc.). Did you lose your air intake foam support or already removed to pics?
    Hmmm.... well, *I* didn't lose the foam support, so either it was lost in a previous repair, or it was never there to start with. Back to RealOEM to track down more part numbers. lol

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by hmmurdock View Post
    Hmmm.... well, *I* didn't lose the foam support, so either it was lost in a previous repair, or it was never there to start with. Back to RealOEM to track down more part numbers. lol
    Mine is 5 & 6 here.

    https://bimmercat.com/bmw/en/search/...3N/USA/51_2198

    Think it is the same but validate.


    2001 750iL DD74441
    E65 fan & clutch, E65 headrests, Front First Aid Kit, Ultimate Cup holder

    2005 X5 4.8is LE82680
    Stock

    RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
    H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheAngryBear View Post
    Mine is 5 & 6 here.

    https://bimmercat.com/bmw/en/search/...3N/USA/51_2198

    Think it is the same but validate.
    Yep, those are the ones. There goes another $50 to ECSTuning. This project is going to nickel-dime me to death.

  18. #43
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    So Instead of going back and adding pictures to previous posts I'm just going to be lazy and post 'em here.

    Pertaining to my missing trim piece that I eventually found and dyed to (almost) match the dash:

    Before:


    After:


    Map pocket replacement:
    Before: (ignore the mess)



    After:


    And passenger side door handles have always been discolored
    Before:


    After


    I think that should have me caught up on pictures.
    If the weather ever cooperates, I'll start posting progress pics of the paint and clearcoat repair as well as the front bumper. So far on the paint project I've taken a scouring pad to the flaking clearcoat to get the flaky stuff off, and I've wet sanded the edges to feather them smooth. But those pics are probably of very little interest.

  19. #44
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    2001 740iL /1991 E32
    Thanks for the bumper photos I feel better now moving forward.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    2001 740iL Guides,chains,vanos done. Full steptronic retrofit,3:15 diff. DUDMD tune. Sport seat retrofit. Porn lights
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Nitto ZR 285/40/18 rear 245/45/18 fr. UUC springs front. Porn lights. Sport wheel


    1991 735iL UUC springs front only Style 42 wheels

  20. #45
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    I'm glad the bumper pics helped.

    In other news, I got a layer of base coat on with the spray gun tonight. Never having used a spray gun and having all new equipment made it a bit stressful, but managed to get a decent looking coat on without any runs. Unfortunately these bumpers have more nooks and crannies than a truckload of English muffins, so it's going to take a few more attempts to make sure I have full coverage. After that, I'll get the clear coat on and then I can finally get the new bumper on.

    On a side note, I'm hoping that I can get to Lowes or Home Depot and get a gallon or two of mineral spirits as I'm noticing it's going to take a lot to get the gun clean. Makes me ponder buying a parts washer at Harbor Freight. Not its intended use, but I suspect it would work pretty well for cleaning my paint gear.

    As far as the "chocolate milk" under the car that I found last week, so far no reappearance, so that's a win.

  21. #46
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    So I've had a little time to work on Big Red again which means more pictures will be forthcoming but here's a quick update:

    Both front fender liners were trashed so those have been replace. And let me tell you, working with those big, floppy, awkward pieces of plastic is no fun. But got them installed. Everything seems to fit and no clearance issues.

    I may have mentioned before I had numerous paint issues, most notably on the hood (paint, primer and everything, was blistering off, down to bare metal) and the clearcoat was peeling off in too many places to count. So I've stripped the remaining paint off the hood, took it down to bare metal, gave it a coat of Ospho, and primed it. Base coat should be coming soon. Everywhere else, I've wet sanded the flaking clear to get it to where it's not flaking anymore. filled and leveled various dings, dents, and low places. (nothing more than 1/16th" at most) and block sanded to get everything nice and flat. The side mirrors are both a mess so I'm planning on taking those off and painting them separately. Any suggestions on what flat/matte/satin black paint to use on trim pieces? (Like the surround and hinge on the mirrors)

    I also ended up replacing the cowling at the bottom of the windshield. It was dry-rotted and falling apart. So had to pull the wiper arms (hit them with a fresh coat of pain while they were off) and all the foam rubber gaskets. They were dirty, but otherwise in good shape so an overnight bath in Simple Green and a little scrubbing and they were good as new. Since I had all of that stuff out/off I did a quick engine bay cleaning and it looks 1000% better. Only thing that really needs attention cosmetically in there is the valve covers. At some point I'm going to have to get the timing chain guides done and when that happens I'm probably going to have the valve covers powder coated to match (or as close as I can get) and have the mating surfaces lapped and hopefully that will take care of any oil leaks.

    So today, I finally got humpty dumpty back together again, and went out for a few laps around the block to check and make sure no new parts were rubbing or anything was awry. As soon as I pulled out of the driveway I got a dash full of brake/ABS warnings. I recently had the ABS module/pump/thingy replaced with a refurbished one so I thought it could be that, but I also remembered the rotors had a pretty thick layer of surface rust from where it had sat for so long, so I gave it a few enthusiastic start/stop cycles. Pulled back in the driveway, turned it off, let it rest for a few minutes (mainly to see if the battery had charged sufficiently to start on its own) and on the 2nd run she started right up, and no brake warnings. So I'm guessing it was the surface rust.

    And while I'm thinking about it, on the passenger side wheel well, when the liner is removed the windshield washer reservoir is exposed. I noticed the fill tube, and the pumps for the windshield and headlight nozzles. But right next to the fill tube is a plastic fitting that is pretty clearly meant to have a hose on it, but of course there was no hose connected, and no hose to be found. I didn't find anything in any parts diagrams to indicate what it was. My first guess was a vent since it's at the top, but I have no idea why a vent would have that sort of fitting. (it's the ribbed friction fit variety) Does anybody know what that is and if there is anything missing?

  22. #47
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    Finally, some pictures again!









    Finally got some base coat back on the hood before the wind arrived. It's not perfect, but a little wet-sanding and some touch ups and it should be good as new.

    Took the headlights apart to clean them, and the wiring harnesses were pretty much disintegrated. Can't find the exact replacement anywhere but FCPEuro has #63128381467 which has all of my wiring plus an extra connector. Pretty sure I can give it the snippy snippy treatment and have it looking just like the original. (I think it's for the euro models maybe?) Anywho, managed to get the lights apart with very little drama. A couple of tabs appeared to be broken already, but I managed to get everything at least glued back together. Trying to stay in budget so I used a headlight restore kit I had laying around instead of getting new lenses, and they seem to be in good shape now. Everything has been thoroughly cleaned and degreased. The weird piece of "L" shaped trim with the rubber gasket (not the rectangular one that lenses mate with) was also falling apart. I found what I hope to be some compatible weather stripping on Amazon that I'm going to try and fit to the plastic trim piece. If that's a success I'll let you know as that part seems to be scarce these days. Mulling over trying to add angel eyes while I've got everything apart. Any thoughts on those?

    In other news, the next project (aside from finishing paint and headlights) is the front doors. I acquired from someone on here (Thanks again, but I forget who it was!) a set of lit (lighted?) interior door handles I'm going to put in (hopefully I can get them spliced into existing wiring without too much difficulty) , a set of replacement 5.25" speakers, and new sticky rubber gasket material to keep the moisture barrier functioning properly. Will probably also pull the side mirrors off while I have everything apart so I can paint them separately.

    Hopefully the forecast holds up and I can get most of this wrapped up this week.
    Last edited by hmmurdock; 11-01-2020 at 10:07 PM.

  23. #48
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    If the weather holds up I should be getting clearcoat on by the end of the week.



    Wiring harnesses for the headlights should be arriving tomorrow so hopefully I can get those buttoned up as well.

  24. #49
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    Pretty ambitious! You using a spayer or a rattle can? I've used the rattle can and 2k clearcoat and have had good luck. Schwartz 2 is easier to match than red though.

    For semi gloss trim paint I hear this is the stuff to use:
    https://www.amazon.com/SEM-Promax-Se.../dp/B000PKZ352

    Hope the weather holds out for you. We have a week of sunny 60's here, looking forward.
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkitect View Post
    Pretty ambitious! You using a spayer or a rattle can? I've used the rattle can and 2k clearcoat and have had good luck. Schwartz 2 is easier to match than red though.

    For semi gloss trim paint I hear this is the stuff to use:
    https://www.amazon.com/SEM-Promax-Se.../dp/B000PKZ352

    Hope the weather holds out for you. We have a week of sunny 60's here, looking forward.
    Spray gun. I already had a big compressor and I had seen several good reviews of the cheap Harbor Freight gun, so I figured that would be the best and cheapest way to get it done.

    Then I got the paint (I think that ended up being something like $250 for a gallon)
    Then I got the clear and the catalyst.
    Then I got the appropriate thinner.
    Then I got all of the solvents for cleaning the gun.
    Then I got the little stand so you can actually fill the gun.
    Then I got the kit that includes all of the measuring cups, strainers, stirrers, etc
    Then I got the cleaning kit for the gun.
    Then I got all of the masking tape
    Then I got a block sanding kit.
    Then I got all the necessary sandpaper
    Then I got the pant stripper
    Then I got the glazing putty and hardner
    Then I got a moisture separator for the gun
    Then I got a longer air hose...

    I think you get the point. It wasn't quite the cost savings I had originally envisioned, but the lesson here as always is, I am an idiot.

    The good news is I can (within the constraints of the weather) be super picky and get it as close to perfect as I want. Along with fixing the clear coat (that was flaking off pretty much everywhere) I got to level out a couple of minor dents and dings, and of course tackle the main problem which was the paint blistering on the hood. (You can see where it had rust spots in the picture above where I was applying the stripper.)

    Thanks for the tip on the trim paint. I'll be pulling the mirrors and bumpers soon, so that's likely there it will get used.

    In other news, my wiring harnesses for the headlights came in today. (I checked the front stoop to see if FedEx had arrived. They hadn't. I walked to my bedroom, and ten seconds later I got a notification on my phone that FedEx had dropped off the package. I go back to the front stoop and there it is. I guess FedEx is hiring ninjas.) Those have now been cleaned, the lenses restored and reassembled and ready to go back in when paint is done, along with new all-black kidney grilles.

    It's a little breezy today so probably not laying down any paint. Supposed to be more calm the next couple of days. I might shift gears this afternoon and tackle a few projects on the E70. I need to replace the seals on the moisture barrier on the rear doors because they're both letting water in and replace the interior door pulls while I'm at it. (the "rubber" has deteriorated and made a mess of things) and also replace the partition near the firewall that evidently falls apart after a few years.

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