Variable length slave cylinder rod?

[AmbOfGlory]

Hey guys, probably stupid question, but I haven’t found much on this one.

I’ve really only had one issue with my ‘97 M3 when I brought it home last Memorial Day, and that was a terribly low clutch engagement. Even with the clutch pedal stop removed, the clutch was not fully disengaged, and getting it into gear once the transmission was warm was a real problem. Well, I tackled this one before I’d really plunged into the vast knowledge available, and replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders, deleting the stupid clutch return spring system while I was at it (DO this, I love it!). The master was definitely bad. The slave seemed good, but was definitely original, and I had thought (imagined?) my new slave made a marginal improvement before I bit the bullet and replaced the master.

With both replaced, the car is worlds better, but still not perfect. Engagement is still at the floor. Shift effort is greater with the engine running than off, so I have yet to replace the clutch pedal stop. After a lot of research, and considering the car’s age, my money is now in the transmission, probably on worn clutch fingers. But, I still suspect the new slave cylinder I installed. It’s a Febi, and from what I’ve read, their hydraulic parts are hit-and-miss.

Now I will be replacing the clutch eventually, but in the meantime, I found a company called Rogue Engineering that makes a variable length slave pin. It’s got a threaded rod with a locking nut to adjust the pin’s length a small amount. The alternative is replacing the Febi slave with an FTE one, which may or may not work if the real problem is clutch fingers. I would think the RE slave pin WOULD solve the issue, at least temporarily, plus it wouldn’t require any bleeding. In theory you could have full control of where the engagement point is.

Does anyone have any experience with one of these? Is it a solid option or am I going to hyperextend something in the clutch system?

[bluptgm3]

Ya, your clutch is near end of life, IF you are properly bled.

There is an adjustable slave rod, I just do not recall who offered it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Hova]

Hey guys, probably stupid question, but I haven’t found much on this one.

I’ve really only had one issue with my ‘97 M3 when I brought it home last Memorial Day, and that was a terribly low clutch engagement. Even with the clutch pedal stop removed, the clutch was not fully disengaged, and getting it into gear once the transmission was warm was a real problem. Well, I tackled this one before I’d really plunged into the vast knowledge available, and replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders, deleting the stupid clutch return spring system while I was at it (DO this, I love it!). The master was definitely bad. The slave seemed good, but was definitely original, and I had thought (imagined?) my new slave made a marginal improvement before I bit the bullet and replaced the master.

With both replaced, the car is worlds better, but still not perfect. Engagement is still at the floor. Shift effort is greater with the engine running than off, so I have yet to replace the clutch pedal stop. After a lot of research, and considering the car’s age, my money is now in the transmission, probably on worn clutch fingers. But, I still suspect the new slave cylinder I installed. It’s a Febi, and from what I’ve read, their hydraulic parts are hit-and-miss.

Now I will be replacing the clutch eventually, but in the meantime, I found a company called Rogue Engineering that makes a variable length slave pin. It’s got a threaded rod with a locking nut to adjust the pin’s length a small amount. The alternative is replacing the Febi slave with an FTE one, which may or may not work if the real problem is clutch fingers. I would think the RE slave pin WOULD solve the issue, at least temporarily, plus it wouldn’t require any bleeding. In theory you could have full control of where the engagement point is.

Does anyone have any experience with one of these? Is it a solid option or am I going to hyperextend something in the clutch system?

It's really not the proper fix. I would wager that your clutch fork pin is worn out, and that is only fixable by removing the transmission. An adjustable slave pin might alleviate your issue for the short term, but it is not the fix.

You're going to end up changing the clutch and pin (you should only replace it with the original nylon version, or the upgraded stainless steel version, do NOT purchase the brass pin).

From Rogue:
"We designed our slave pin to be adjustable from 85mm to 95mm with simple hand tools. While it could be used as a temporary solution in a troublesome situation, it is durable enough to be a permanent solution as well. This is a MUST for any DIYer or mechanic trying to diagnose clutch engagement issues!"

Ya, your clutch is near end of life, IF you are properly bled.

There is an adjustable slave rod, I just do not recall who offered it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...Pin_p_235.html

It's also pretty easy to make yourself. Cut the rod, thread both pieces, add in a threaded coupler and nut to lock it down. Anyone with some simple hand tools should be able to figure it out.

[AmbOfGlory]

Update:

Took a look at the Febi slave today. Remember, the slave is new.

The slave pin was BENT.

How does that even happen??

Replaced the pin, for now. Replacing the slave—again— with the proper FTE part asap, as the slave’s casing is also rusting already.

Lesson learned, don’t cheap out and buy Febi-Bilstein.