'95 525 touring auto
Key (~1 year old) turns in ignition cylinder about 90 degrees but w/o the typical "stops" like accessories, start.
No dash lights and the steering wheel doesn't unlock. No prior problems before today as I was going to get lunch.
Old key has same symptoms
Stranded in the lot at work.
Overhead lights are bright so battery ok
Last edited by petemc53555; 01-24-2020 at 01:35 PM. Reason: more
...100 into tight, slippy, 2 right, don't cut, opens... 200, keep left over crest...
Could be the key barrel itself if the steering lock doesn't unlock. Quite often in many cars they are crimped/pinned/banded together and eventually they just fall apart so the mechanism doesn't engage and turn anything in the column.
Mines a 1990 model with no OE antitheft so I don't know what you would need for a 1995 (EWS, transponder coding, dealer to reprogram?)
Have a browse here at realOEM https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=32_0906. Maybe after looking at that page select another car and enter you cars details fully (I just picked a ranom 95 USA 525)
Otherwise it could be an ignition switch problem? Probably not because the steering lock doesn't work either.
Last edited by fo3; 01-24-2020 at 02:38 PM.
The key barrel or the shaft?:
https://www.amazon.com/Bross-BSP14FB...5M0N9DBT763KYN
...100 into tight, slippy, 2 right, don't cut, opens... 200, keep left over crest...
I have a handy photo of all the ignition switch guts disassembled, but can't find it at the moment. IIRC there's a metal "extension" piece that interfaces the barrel with the steering lock and ignition switch, which has a thin cross-section in one area and is probably snapped on yours. I recommend replacing just that piece - not the whole tumbler, which would require a different key - and disabling the steering lock WYIT. I'll dig around for that photo. You'll need a thin stiff wire to pop out the barrel, a small cutting wheel to cut two impossibolts, and 2x M6 allen replacement bolts.
EDIT: the piece in the Amazon listing is the one. I recommend a good used OE over aftermarket.
Last edited by moroza; 01-24-2020 at 03:53 PM.
Thanks,
The shaft can't be swapped w/o removing the interlock steering lock (#2)?Capture.PNG
Post or link those photos if you find them eh?
Last edited by petemc53555; 01-24-2020 at 05:38 PM.
...100 into tight, slippy, 2 right, don't cut, opens... 200, keep left over crest...
To be honest, I don't remember how it all comes apart, except that the steering lock block needs the shaft to come out first. I had one of those fail closed while driving and I consider them an unwelcome safety hazard.
Nothing lasts forever...
Ok My car is rusting to bits and more and more of the electronics are dead so I hacked it, a little.
Tutorial-light: See pic for details... I removed the lower steering column trim, drilled a 3/8" hole in the bottom of the casting (#1) and removed the spring inside that engaged the lock for the steering wheel, unthreaded the transmission lock 12 or 13mm (#2) and removed tiny wax-capped flat screws (3A & 3B) that hold the back end of the ignition switch (#4) so I could start it w/ a screwdriver. The original key still needs to be in the ignition because of the security ring around the key, but I can drive it at least. I have to push on he end of the the trans lock to move the shifter out of park. I am still unable to remove the key tumbler.
IMG_2761_LI.jpg
So....I'm going to a push button start.
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/1100...caAi1-EALw_wcB
Can someone direct me to an ignition wiring scheme for a '95 525iaT?
Thanks team!
Last edited by petemc53555; 01-30-2020 at 12:31 PM. Reason: Clarity and detail
...100 into tight, slippy, 2 right, don't cut, opens... 200, keep left over crest...
You can download wiring diagrams by year from here: http://www.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e34/
Thanks fo3!
...100 into tight, slippy, 2 right, don't cut, opens... 200, keep left over crest...
Good Lord,. please don't do that. A, it's as bogus as it gets. B, the broken locking mechanism can bind the steering.
There is an enterprising E-bay seller for the link that breaks so you no longer need to buy the expensive lock housing.
Fix it right, if you search you can find a tutorial about the repair. It's no fun but deserves to be fixed correctly.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Agreed regarding both the lock (it can still lock up even with no spring) and the pushbutton start (fix it right).
Yup, I'm all for "expeditious" repairs on beaters but not where safety is concerned. The car shouldn't be on the road like that.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
I came for enablement...I got sense talked into me, thank you.
I ordered the shaft...
...100 into tight, slippy, 2 right, don't cut, opens... 200, keep left over crest...
@petemc53555, did this solve your issue? (Meaning, did the part on the Amazon page work?) I have the same problem. It happened to me a few days ago and I have been troubleshooting and looking for a solution since. Fortunately, mine failed after I was parked in my own driveway.
Last edited by DaTechGuy; 07-27-2020 at 09:28 PM.
I don't think the OP ever informed us the outcome but that part is almost certainly the answer.
Dismantling is labor intensive and a bit fiddly but doing so represents a significant cost savings over purchasing the entire lock housing assembly as BMW sells it.
As for aftermarket quality. Well, the original clearly ain't so hot and I've not heard of the replacements failing so........
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
I bought that same Amazon piece to replace the broken shaft in mine. It was identical to the stock piece, in all it's spindly, over engineered glory. I reinforced the new one with JB Weld in a couple of spots to make it more robust before installing it.
It took an eyeglass screwdriver for me to convince the ignition lock to come out, paperclips weren't quite big enough to pop it loose.
Last edited by xcastaway; 07-28-2020 at 05:28 PM.
I had a very similar problem on my E36 a few years ago and fixed it by just drilling a tiny hole in the underside of the ignition lock close to the front and inserting a grub screw. It happened due to a little tab thing that snapped off inside but it was easy to fix and was reliable.
The grub screw acted as a stop for the cylinder to bump into. I've seen loads of similar fixes online where people just used a self tapping screw but I found the grub screw sat nice and flush so it didn't interfere with the transponder receiver (If your car has one). I also thread-locked it in there just for added peace of mind.
Thank you all for your responses. I guess I know what my weekend project is going to be.
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