Pressure in coolant lines after engine swap

[effduration]

Well here’s the verdict. 100% blown head gasket

https://imgur.com/gallery/6iDhDX8

Sorry to hear all this.

Event though the Ebay seller only offered a 30-day guarantee, and you are likely well past that. I'd let him know and see what happens...but I wouldn't expect much. Leave neg feedback if he doesn't make it right.

So, new (used)engine or head gasket? Given your shortage of time (college kid) and experience putting engines in (YOU did the last install, right? ) This is what I suggest:

Get a used parts car with the engine you need. Make sure it runs, read codes and do a compression test on it <$800
Minor codes are okay. Good compression is important. Make sure you have title - scrapyard won't take it otherwise.

On one weekend, remove engine from parts car and put it on a stand - by this point, you might be able to remove the blown engine during the same weekend.

On a second weekend replace things on the engine you are putting in (order all parts ahead of time) and get it ready to install.

Install it on third weekend. and get it running..

[E39 Newbie]

I wouldn't get yourself all worked up. I would be a little surprised if that Ebay seller sold you an engine with a bad head gasket. He does a lot of volume.

The M52TU engine which you have has both a head and a block made of an Aluminum alloy. The previous engine - M52 from '96-98 had an iron block with alum head. Most mechanics don't want to do head gaskets on these cars.

You saw my post above about doing an engine swap and then a head gasket on the replacement engine I swapped in. I have now done 4-5 head gaskets and always time-sert the alum block with time-serts.

AS you have likely heard before, It is pretty much a toss-up between a head gasket and an engine replacement cost- and time-wise. Since you have done an engine replacement before, it will probably be far easier/quicker for you to replace engine than to attempt head gasket.

I'm talking out of school, being a Newbie and all, but I thought all the M52TU engines for the USA market had iron blocks. Or am I mistaken and they just had cast iron cylinder liners?

[jicaino]

Most M52 for foreign markets have iron blocks. By the time the M52TU was launched they already converted to alusil

[E39 Newbie]

Man, that really sucks! Please be sure to post whether or not the eBay seller honors the warranty, or not. Personally, I stopped buying big-ticket items on eBay long ago. But that's neither here, nor there.

I was in your same position when I got my current project. I bought it knowing the HG was bad. I assumed I could just fix it, and time-sert the block. You might be able to do that, assuming the head is in pristine shape otherwise, the block is flat, etc. If you need machining the price goes up to the point of economic infeasibility. It then makes more sense to swap the engine. Also, if you don't have access to all the tools, including the VANOS timing tool, a swap is the way to go.

In my case the engine turned out to be unrepairable because the head and block were too warped.

In case the seller tells you to go kick rocks, I've had pretty decent luck with LKQ Online. (Not the LKQ pick-your-part yards). Their prices are reasonable. They test each engine before the pull it from the car, including compression tests. You can see a pic of the donor car. They offer a six-month warranty. They also offer an "extended warranty" that covers the cost of reinstallation, in case you get a bad unit and have to pay someone to remove/replace it. The caveat is that, in order for them to honor the warranty, you'll need to replace the water pump, all the gaskets, spark plugs, and so forth. They give you a list.

[Phenoxs]

Sorry to hear all this.

Event though the Ebay seller only offered a 30-day guarantee, and you are likely well past that. I'd let him know and see what happens...but I wouldn't expect much. Leave neg feedback if he doesn't make it right.

So, new (used)engine or head gasket? Given your shortage of time (college kid) and experience putting engines in (YOU did the last install, right? ) This is what I suggest:

Get a used parts car with the engine you need. Make sure it runs, read codes and do a compression test on it <$800
Minor codes are okay. Good compression is important. Make sure you have title - scrapyard won't take it otherwise.

On one weekend, remove engine from parts car and put it on a stand - by this point, you might be able to remove the blown engine during the same weekend.

On a second weekend replace things on the engine you are putting in (order all parts ahead of time) and get it ready to install.

Install it on third weekend. and get it running..

Yeah it’s just my luck :/ hopefully the eBay seller will exchange or replace the engine. Just sucks I put new a new valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, rear mains seal and gasket, water coolant pipes, oil, bmw coolant on a motor that’s is no good... because I’m sure he’s not going to compensate me for those new parts and fluids. I’ll prolly just end up swapping another engine instead of doing a head gasket job. Thanks for the info and advice bro.

Man, that really sucks! Please be sure to post whether or not the eBay seller honors the warranty, or not. Personally, I stopped buying big-ticket items on eBay long ago. But that's neither here, nor there.

I was in your same position when I got my current project. I bought it knowing the HG was bad. I assumed I could just fix it, and time-sert the block. You might be able to do that, assuming the head is in pristine shape otherwise, the block is flat, etc. If you need machining the price goes up to the point of economic infeasibility. It then makes more sense to swap the engine. Also, if you don't have access to all the tools, including the VANOS timing tool, a swap is the way to go.

In my case the engine turned out to be unrepairable because the head and block were too warped.

In case the seller tells you to go kick rocks, I've had pretty decent luck with LKQ Online. (Not the LKQ pick-your-part yards). Their prices are reasonable. They test each engine before the pull it from the car, including compression tests. You can see a pic of the donor car. They offer a six-month warranty. They also offer an "extended warranty" that covers the cost of reinstallation, in case you get a bad unit and have to pay someone to remove/replace it. The caveat is that, in order for them to honor the warranty, you'll need to replace the water pump, all the gaskets, spark plugs, and so forth. They give you a list.

I’ll look into that site and see what I can get going because I’m really ready to be back in my e39. My current beater is a Kia spectra my old man is letting me use in the mean time lol. Thanks for the info and advice as well.

[Phenoxs]

Updated:

Called the eBay seller this morning and he’s sending me a replacement engine with 140k mileages from an insurance car.

[effduration]

Think how much quicker this one will go!...before you know it you’ll be doing engine swaps at college for beer money...

[Phenoxs]

Think how much quicker this one will go!...before you know it you’ll be doing engine swaps at college for beer money...

lol, luckily I have a classmate that works for a beer company so I always gets boxes of free brews. But yeah, I feel like the this swap will be quicker and smoother.

also, can I reuse the water coolant pipes that I bought new and put them on the replacement engine?

[effduration]

As long as the o-rings are fresh & undamaged, I don't see why not.. If you install engine and intake manifold separately -meaning intake goes on after engine is in car- you can test water pipe sealing by hooking up all hoses in the cooling system, fill with distilled water (don't bother bleeding) and add less than 20 psi to cooling system thru a bleed screw . Important: I use a gutted thermostat housing for this purpose....It sure beats discovering a leak in your hard coolant pipes AFTER the intake is on.

If you install engine with intake already on, well keep your fingers crossed.

[Phenoxs]

As long as the o-rings are fresh & undamaged, I don't see why not.. If you install engine and intake manifold separately -meaning intake goes on after engine is in car- you can test water pipe sealing by hooking up all hoses in the cooling system, fill with distilled water (don't bother bleeding) and add less than 20 psi to cooling system thru a bleed screw . Important: I use a gutted thermostat housing for this purpose....It sure beats discovering a leak in your hard coolant pipes AFTER the intake is on.

If you install engine with intake already on, well keep your fingers crossed.

More than likely I’m going to install the motor with the intake, I’ll have to make a decision once I remove the coolant pipes to see if they’re worth reusing. But I’ll for sure be purchasing a new oil pan gasket, and remain seal/gaskets again and just re-use the valve cover gasket.

[jicaino]

If your lines were purchased new and you didn't botched the installation, you can reuse them. Heck, you can even reuse 15 years old lines if you fish the collasped o-rig and replace it. It's STD from any good quality metric O-Ring kit.

[effduration]

If your lines were purchased new and you didn't botched the installation, you can reuse them. Heck, you can even reuse 15 years old lines if you fish the collasped o-rig and replace it. It's STD from any good quality metric O-Ring kit.

I wouldn’t use 15yr old lines with new o-rings..the plastic lines themselves deteriorate.

I think the o-ring size is 20mm x3mm...and that size was not in my (average to poor quality) harbor freight metric o-ring kit.

[Phenoxs]

What do y’all think about even reusing the gaskets I purchased new? Maybe have like 15 miles on them max, anyway to save money I will lol

[jicaino]

I wouldn’t use 15yr old lines with new o-rings..the plastic lines themselves deteriorate.

I think the o-ring size is 20mm x3mm...and that size was not in my (average to poor quality) harbor freight metric o-ring kit.

Funny thing: I had a NEW Original BMW coolant hose blowing up on me (plastic). The 19 years old that I didn'tn throw in the garbage saved me. As it's true taht plastic ages, the older stuff was made in ngermany while these cars were new and the quality was significantly higher. I've pressure tested old hoses with new o rings and they're up to task with newer hoses.

- - - Updated - - -

What do y’all think about even reusing the gaskets I purchased new? Maybe have like 15 miles on them max, anyway to save money I will lol

You mean intake, PCV and those gaskets? I'd clean them up and reuse them.

[Phenoxs]

Funny thing: I had a NEW Original BMW coolant hose blowing up on me (plastic). The 19 years old that I didn'tn throw in the garbage saved me. As it's true taht plastic ages, the older stuff was made in ngermany while these cars were new and the quality was significantly higher. I've pressure tested old hoses with new o rings and they're up to task with newer hoses.

- - - Updated - - -



You mean intake, PCV and those gaskets? I'd clean them up and reuse them.

I bought oil pan, valve cover, rear main seal and gasket, and the coolant pipes new that I want to reuse if y’all think it’s safe lol.

[JimLev]

lol, luckily I have a classmate that works for a beer company so I always gets boxes of free brews.

With all this free forum advise send some of that free beer to us guys, lol.
Nice to hear your getting a replacement engine.

[Phenoxs]

With all this free forum advise send some of that free beer to us guys, lol.
Nice to hear your getting a replacement engine.

lol, I gotcha covered. You like Busch? Haha it’s free so when he gives I don’t ever complain on the brand or quality

[jicaino]

I bought oil pan, valve cover, rear main seal and gasket, and the coolant pipes new that I want to reuse if y’all think it’s safe lol.

oil pan, I'd reuse. VC, if I keep the VC andswap it over the new engine. (not dislodging it from the VC, that is, keeping one sealing surface as a constant). rear main seal and gasket I'd inspect it, if it has no nicks or marks or anything, I'd reuse.

[Phenoxs]

oil pan, I'd reuse. VC, if I keep the VC andswap it over the new engine. (not dislodging it from the VC, that is, keeping one sealing surface as a constant). rear main seal and gasket I'd inspect it, if it has no nicks or marks or anything, I'd reuse.

I’ll inspect the parts closely before reinstalling

[Phenoxs]

So they’re sending me this:

2000 BMW 328i 2.8L160,095 miles
Purchased from an insurance auction (front end collision)

Now my concerns are will this be a direct replacement? Or will I need to swap the intake, throttle body, oil pan, vacuum lines, etc... from my 528i engine?

[effduration]

So they’re sending me this:

2000 BMW 328i 2.8L160,095 miles
Purchased from an insurance auction (front end collision)

Now my concerns are will this be a direct replacement? Or will I need to swap the intake, throttle body, oil pan, vacuum lines, etc... from my 528i engine?

Yes that is the right engine. The only thing that might be different is the oil pan, but you'll want to the replace the oil pan gasket anyway, so no big deal. You will want to makes sure it is a 2.8 (M54TUB28) and not a 2.5 (M54TUB25) used in the 323. There is plate on the bottom driver side of engine block, below the starter. Scrub it clean. There are 2 rows of numbers. The lower row should start with 28.

You should use the intake hoses from your 5-series. but intake manifold, throttle body, vac lines should all be the same.


That is quite a few miles though..But the M52TU engine does pretty well at higher miles, and does not have the oil consumption pblms of the m54

[Phenoxs]

Ok sounds good, thanks for the info brotha man

[E39 Newbie]

3-series and 5-series definitely have a different oil pan. My donor engine came from a 325i. My donor didn't have a throttle body, but did have an intake which I used because my original was all screwed up (visually) from rat pee.

While you're in there, replace the O ring on the oil pickup. It can't hurt.

[Phenoxs]

3-series and 5-series definitely have a different oil pan. My donor engine came from a 325i. My donor didn't have a throttle body, but did have an intake which I used because my original was all screwed up (visually) from rat pee.

While you're in there, replace the O ring on the oil pickup. It can't hurt.

What kind of rat pees acid lmaooo, but thanks for the info bro and I’ll just reuse my 5 series oil pan and check the other components once I get the 3 series donor engine.

[E39 Newbie]

LOL. These ones did. PO had the thing parked in his driveway for 2+ years. They'd build a nest on top of the engine. That little "shelf" on the passenger side in the front behind the headlight was full of the largest rat turds you'd ever seen. They would pee down the back all over the transmission, which still has some discoloration of the aluminum. The intake smelled to high heaven so I was happy that the donor had a decent one that cleaned up nicely.