2006 X3 Crank NO Start

[X3box]

Posted in the E46 forum as well, just because there are a few more of those.

Picked up the car cheap (gosh I wonder why...) 125,000K very clean. Clean car fax with only dealer service.

Symptoms: Car will crank, good dash lights, good door beep with key, but no sustained start. Replaced battery with brand new (put on charger to keep at peak). Replaced fuel pump and PSI regulator. Checked ground straps and even added a body to ground wire (just to be sure). Replaced BOTH CAM sensors and Crank sensor with good ones (used but known to be good). Fuel rail has good pressure. Has good spark. Cylinders are NOT washed.

Sometimes the car will catch and sputter a bit. Here is the weird part: when I was checking for good fuel pressure I removed the schrader valve core and put a line from there to a gas can. I can visually see the pump kick on and it pumps fuel. When the pressure is reduced from the fuel rail the car will idle for short periods of time. Strange. So I'm thinking it is a computer problem where as the engine keeps flooding.

As a side note if I pull the fuel pump fuse and spray starting fluid directly into the throttle body the car will start and run for short periods of time.

Error codes from INPA:
31CD Kurbeiwellengeber: signal
2766 Nockenwellengeber Einiass: Signaldauer
2783 Heibfilm-Luftmassenmesser
2800 Botschaft (I-Kombi 2) Von Der Instrumentenkombination fehlt
2809 Botschaft

[mandito219]

Same issue today with my 2011 x3.
It started and died out while warming up in Chicago.
I'm suspecting fuel pump.

[Mechanician]

bump
had to re register because I forgot my password.

Offering $100 to anyone who comes up with the solution!

What it is NOT:
Harness replaced
Idle control valve removed, cleaned, tested.
DISA replaced with serviceable unit.
Throttle body replaced with serviceable unit
All injectors removed, tested and cleaned.
Replaced Crank sensor and both CAM sensors with serviceable units
Repaired all vacuum leaks
New fuel pump and PSI regulator
Has spark, new plugs
Ground strap is good

[vinyldude]

I think you have checked almost everything already. Are you sure what's in the gas tank? Could it be some really old gas, or perhaps even something else mixed in?
Have you done a compression test to be sure nothing aside gas and spark could be the problem?

[Mechanician]

Replaced fuel pump and PSI regulator, added fresh gas.



If I remove the schrader valve on the fuel rail, run a line to an external gas can, thus relieving pressure off the injectors, it will start. I can then rev it up almost normally. When at anything above around 3000RPM I can then pinch off the fuel line and it will continue to run. However, it won't idle normally.

Wash down was early on the list. If it was lack of compression I don't think it would run as above. Additionally, I sent off the DME and had it, "repaired". While I don't have 100% faith in the DME, I also don't think it would run as above if it was just the DME. My suspicion is that there is a short somewhere that is giving the DME a bad signal and thus flooding it out on a normal start, but that just a theory.

[vinyldude]

If your injectors are leaking I think it could explain at least some of what you are seeing. Either lift the fuel rail from the intake manifold to verify or if you have a borescope you could peek through the spark plug holes.

[Mechanician]

Vinydude,

Thanks for your reply.

I just don't see how they would all be leaking to that extent. I removed the fuel rail and tested and cleaned each injector.

As far as codes, I'm getting a Pre-cat O2 short to hot fault. Even when I unplug both pre-cat sensors I can not clear this code.

[vinyldude]

Vinydude,
I just don't see how they would all be leaking to that extent. I removed the fuel rail and tested and cleaned each injector.

If some crud gets passed the fuel filter, all injectors can be affected.
I didn't think leaking while the injectors are closed would necessary be the problem, but dirty injectors can be slow to cut off the fuel. If the injectors do not follow the control signal, they generally supply much more fuel than DME intends the fuel/air mix should be.
When injectors are slow to cut off, they have easier time to close when the fuel pressure is low, which is sort of in-line with what you experienced. This is also in-line with idling having the most difficulty and things being slightly better when the throttle body is more open.

This is not fully conclusive though.

As far as codes, I'm getting a Pre-cat O2 short to hot fault. Even when I unplug both pre-cat sensors I can not clear this code.

That could obviously tell there is something wrong with the wiring.

[Mechanician]

This thing is making me questioning my life choices

2006 X3 3.0 M54 with about 120K
Picked it up off of Craigslist for cheap. Very clean. I knew it was a problem child but I figured I could figure it out.

General symptoms are a crank no start situation. So now we go down the rabbit hole...

Replaced battery with new.
New plugs, has good spark.
Replaced fuel pump and psi regulator with new.
Swapped the following with serviceable units:
Crank sensor
Both Cam sensors
DISA valve
Idle control valve
Throttle body
Sensor wiring harness
Coolant temp sensor
Ground strap in good shape

Tested continuity of all fuses. Replaced little fuse box (30amp) by DME.
Swapped Transmission computer with donor from junkyard.
Removed radio and Bluetooth module in trunk to prevent CAN bus interference.
Got new key from dealer.

Removed intake manifold and replaced broken vacuum line. Removed and cleaned all injectors and checked for proper operation.

So now I figure it’s the DME. Send off to a DME shop. $300 later same same. (I'm still not totally convinced it's not the DME, experience with DME shop was questionable)

Here is the weird part. If I remove the Schrader valve off the fuel rail and run a line to an external fuel can (I initially did this to check for good fuel pressure and flow) It will start and run. It doesn't idle very well but I can rev it up to 3000 and above and it sound pretty good. Might be missing on one but it runs ok. As long as I hold the rpm steady it will run. I can then pinch off the fuel line coming off the rail and it will still run. This leads me to believe it is getting flooded at start from a bad signal.

I do have INPA and ISTA+
Unfortunately the INPA is all in German but it basically shows the same thing as the ISTA+
Various random codes are present (seat sensor etc)

Then the meat:
00271A DME: oxygen sensor before cat. Conv. Bank 1 signal Millage 208544
Under details:
Fault types
Fault currently present
Short circuit to positive
Fault does not cause warning lamp to light up
Environment conditions:
Frequency: 1
Logistics counter: 40
Mileage/Km reading 208544 km
SAE diagnostic trouble code: P0132
Exhaust tem model for interface: 16c
Resistance of hot oxygen sensor before cat, bank 1 255 ohm
Voltage, oxygen sensor before cat. Bank 1: 1.84 V
Time after starting: 0s

002722 DME: oxygen sensor before cat. Conv. Bank 2 signal Millage 208544
Details exactly the same as above


0054C4 VTG: calibration faulty Mileage 208544
0054C4 VTG: Oil wear
005EB1 DSC: steering-angle sensor, supply Millage 208550
005F3A DSC: Transfer case: Malfunction Mileage 208550

Even if I unplug the O2 sensors I can’t clear the codes. Swapped serviceable ones no change. I know it’s easy to mix up pre and post but these are the round/oval ones so no problem there. Now that I’m writing this I can’t help but think there is a correlation between the O2 codes and the VTG codes given that the mileage occurrence is exactly the same.
Not sure where to go from here. Will inspect for transmission wire damage under vehicle.
Thoughts?

[vinyldude]

Not sure I would trust that “shorted to positive” message. I think one may get P0132/0133 if the cylinders simply keep being flooded.

VTG and DSC codes are unrelated other problems.

[Mechanician]

The fact that I get no change when I swap the O2 sensor, or simply unplug them, leads me to believe it's some sort of short or DME problem.

Hate to drop anymore money on it but I might send out a spare DME I have to get mated with the EWS and key.

[gdking32]

I am the original owner of a 2006 E83 with 140k with a similar problem that appeared out of the blue, meaning that the car cranks but does not start. I am using the Barvarian Technic ODB2 Cable and software. When I scan the car I am not getting single engine (M54) related DTC. I suspected the problem was the fuel pump so i replaced it with a new BMW Fuel PUmp with no affect. After the new fuel pump was installed, the car cranks but still does not start. Fuel pressure seems strong when I unscrew the schrader valve on the fuel rail and depress the pin, I get a strong stream of gasoline. I have checked the fuses in the Ebox that control the ignition coils (F01-30 Amps) and Fuel Injection Relay (F05-30 Amps). I have also checked a number of fuses in the Main Power Distribution Panel(A41) and none are blown. When I get in the car, insert the key in the ignition and turn it to position 1 and then open the door the alarm chimes indicating that the ring sensor in the ignition is communicating with the key. I believe that eliminates EWS and DME mismatch as does the fact that it cranks. I put a charger on the battery and it seems to top out at 11.8 Volts. The car has been well maintained with frequent oil charges and a proactive maintenance schedule (Spark plugs, new OZ sensors, DISA rebuilt, etc). The night before the problem occurred we had a rain storm with high winds. The next morning the car failed to start for the first time. Could it be the battey? It is my understanding that if it was a EWS- DME communication mismatch the system would generate an error code. The fact that I am not getting an errot code from my scanner and no fuses are blown has me baffled. I convinced myself that it was the fuel pump based on other threads online so before I take another flyer I was hoping to get some advice from anyone who has had a similar experience, thus this post. What ever i learn I will be sharing as this is one for the ages in terms of troubleshooting.

[jclausen]

Not that it's a problem but fuel pressure needs to be measured with a gauge

[gdking32]

Crank No Start Update. Since the problem first occurred I have replaced the following components in the following sequence. After each installation I have tried to start the X3 with no success. I replaced the fuel pump with a BMW pump purchased from Passport BMW, the battery with a battery from a BMW dealer, a fuel pump relay from a BMW Dealer, a fuel filter from Passport BMW, a MEYLE crankshaft sensor purchased from ECS Tuning, an oil level sensor purchased from ECS Tuning, an OE exhaust camshaft sensor purchased from FCP Euro and finally a intake camshaft sensor purchased from FCP Euro. When I scan the car with the Bavarian Technic scanned I get no engine related DTC's and I have checked the fuses in the glove compartment and in the engine eBox. After all these new parts the condition remains the same, crank but no start. If anyone has an ideas as to why the car is not starting I would appreciate any suggested additional actions or opinions.

[gdking32]

Crank No Start Update. After replacing the fuel pump, fuel filter with integrated fuel pressure regulator, battery, crankshaft sensor, and both camshaft sensors I am now getting a BMW DTC 3C1D (Crankshaft Signal) and 299A (Can Fault Management (EGS). Same condition, Crank No Start. If anyone has an ideas as to why the car is not starting I would appreciate any suggested additional actions or opinions.

[dangdude]

Crank No Start Update. After replacing the fuel pump, fuel filter with integrated fuel pressure regulator, battery, crankshaft sensor, and both camshaft sensors I am now getting a BMW DTC 3C1D (Crankshaft Signal) and 299A (Can Fault Management (EGS). Same condition, Crank No Start. If anyone has an ideas as to why the car is not starting I would appreciate any suggested additional actions or opinions.

Any update on the cause of these symptoms?

I have a 2006 x3, 165k miles. I verified I have fuel at 50 psi at the fuel rail. The car turns over and tries to start and stumbles but never starts. It fires once per rev or less. It ran great up to pulling it into the garage, the failure was sudden.

I've hooked up a jump box to see if it's low battery. The pump "pre-pressure-the-system" step that's supposed to happen when ignition is turned on never happens and never did before, so it always took an extra second to start. Not sure e83s do that like e46s do.

Any suggestions?