540i CCV Torx bolt head stripped - any suggestions for tool to extract it?

[Mark185]

Apologies to the forum for accidentally posting this to the E39 Common Problems and Fixes subforum. IIRC we are not supposed to post questions like this to that subforum.

I have been absent from this forum for a number of years while life steered me away from having time for my E39 addiction. I just purchased a 2003 540i M Sport last weekend knowing it had a failed CCV. It was humming loudly when the engine was warm. Seller immediately knocked $500 off the price when I pointed that out. Now I know why. Someone stripped the torx head that is hardest to get to on the bottom of the CCV. I have searched for and looked at threads that mention CCV replacement. One mentioned the use of bolt extractors but it was so old the links for tools are no longer valid. Does anyone know of a bolt extractor that will work with a small round head like these torx bolts have?

If that does not work, am I looking at removing the entire intake manifold? I am thinking of trying to use a Dremel tool to cut away the part of the CCV that obstructs this bolt and then cut the bolt head off. Appreciate any suggestions for ways to tackle this problem.

[CPHES]

you need to drill it, and use a reverse tap to get it out. I had a tight fit on a Toyota Matrix, and used a Milwaukee 90 degree handheld drill. Can you put pics here of the situation?

[theWalkinator]

Use a locking vice grip, it should come loose relatively easily, replace the inverse torx bolts with regular hex bolts.

[Jaaap]

Had the same problem.
I broke the black plastic with brute force, by pressing the entire CCV back with both handpalms on the top of the CCV, standing in front of the car.
Got lucky and did not damage the intake but do this AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Getting the bottom center bolt out is easy after that.

[scubajim20]

Use a locking vice grip, it should come loose relatively easily, replace the inverse torx bolts with regular hex bolts.

Removing the vent ducts and what ever else is in the way and try some vice grips.

[msvphoto]

Honestly, if it were me I would probably just remove the IM. It isn't that bad and you can clean out all the crud, put on new IM and TB gaskets, refresh the hose and o-rings on the CCV to oil separator pipe. Of course while you're that far in the valley pan and, and, and...oh never mind.

I put doing mine off until I did the TCG job "with everything else" and was glad I did. Turned out I had a bad oil separator behind the guide as well and the CCV didn't look bad (put a new BMW one on anyway). You may be able to save some time wangling the stripped screw out, but maybe not.

I was told decades ago by a BMW Master tech I learned a lot from "if you can touch it you can turn it" which has been ingrained in my mechanical mind ever since. This is one of those cases were maybe not so much.

While in there make sure the brake booster hose is okay (mine was toast). That hose cost me several days of angst at the end of the TCG job waiting for yet another part.

HTH and good luck.

[Chedley]

Remove the entire intake manifold, then break out the CCV or cut it out with a Dremel. Replace the CCV only with a BMW stamped oem CCV, and use regular hex screws.

Is this the first time you replace the CCV on this 540i ? If so, beware they are not Torx screws, but poly-drive screws or bolts.
Your best bet is to remove the manifold for easy access to the bolts and CCV. An then replace them with regular hex screws .
BTW,
welcome to the club. Many stripped those screws, often because we did not clean them out before unscrewing..

[JimLev]

I used a very small set of channel lock pliers, they were about 4" long.
When I got all of them out I replaced all of them with M6 x 1.0 x 25mm hex head bolts. Did the same on the front of the IM too.

[Mark185]

Thanks for all of the tips. This bolt is the one closest to the aluminum coolant passage on the back of the engine and it is underneath the tube in the CCV housing that goes to the oil separator. I have a small channel locks pliers like you describe JimLev but did not try to use them. Not sure I have the manual dexterity to make that work. 62 year old arthritic hands are a bitch for tight work. I am thinking I will pull the intake manifold at this point.

Adding insult to injury, I put it all back together so I could use the car until i have time to pull the intake manifold. Now, I have a serious vacuum leak. Hard to start, it won't idle, and the DME went into limp home mode. I hate it when I start a job to fix a minor problem and create a bigger problem instead. I have to leave town for a business trip this weekend and won't get back to working on this for a week or two. It was fun driving it for 48 hours. I finally understand the difference between the 530i Sport and this car. I like them both a lot but this V8 is addicting.

[Spirit Force]

FYI it is not a torx, it's ribe. If it was me I would use Knippex Cobra pliers to get it out. The only pliers that I know to actually do what you expect. Bahco, Irwin etc. don't even compare. Knippex will grip anything and you don't even need to squeeze them while turning the fastener. They ain't cheap, but once you've tried them you won't go back..

[Chedley]

Those pliers will probably not work on stripped screws of the CCV. There is not enough room at the back of the engine to manipulate the pliers. And even after removing the manifold, they will not bite on the stripped screw.

[Oday0111]

What I ended up doing and this is just me. I was able to get all the torx bit bolts out besides one of them.

I ended up saying f it and took the whole intake manifold off. Cleaned up the intake and everything got new gaskets. But the way I got the stripped bolt off was a vice grip...

Small needle nose pair. I got on the head of the bolt, real tight bite.

Then just slapped the vice grip like slapping a wrench on tight brake caliper braket bolts

Results were amazing the bolt came right out. But in order for me to get the vice grips on I had to brake off some of the ccv system. It was so brittle I was able to pry It a little and the system broke off leaving the little corner were the last bolt was holding the rest of the system.

Not the best way but a good way of you have nothing else.

Vice grips

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[Mark185]

Honestly, if it were me I would probably just remove the IM. It isn't that bad and you can clean out all the crud, put on new IM and TB gaskets, refresh the hose and o-rings on the CCV to oil separator pipe. Of course while you're that far in the valley pan and, and, and...oh never mind.

I put doing mine off until I did the TCG job "with everything else" and was glad I did. Turned out I had a bad oil separator behind the guide as well and the CCV didn't look bad (put a new BMW one on anyway). You may be able to save some time wangling the stripped screw out, but maybe not.

I was told decades ago by a BMW Master tech I learned a lot from "if you can touch it you can turn it" which has been ingrained in my mechanical mind ever since. This is one of those cases were maybe not so much.

While in there make sure the brake booster hose is okay (mine was toast). That hose cost me several days of angst at the end of the TCG job waiting for yet another part.

HTH and good luck.

If the oil separator is bad, will it be accessible once the intake manifold is off? From reading other threads, it sounds like replacing the oil separator involves more than just removing the intake manifold. This engine was serviced about a year ago for Vanos replacement and lower timing chain guide replacement. The PO does not remember if the oil separator was replaced at that time so I am assuming it wasn't. PO told me if I am not careful replacing the CCV, I can damage the plastic tube going to the oil separator and also damage the oil separator because they get brittle with age.

[msvphoto]

No, the oil separator won't be accessible. It is behind a timing chain guide so commonly changed with the TCG job. The brittle plastic hose was the failure point on mine. I don't think removing and installing the tube is cause for concern. The oil separator fitting is secured with a guide fastener. Maybe if twisted it could turn the fitting.

[HD ST]

I had the same issue when I replaced the CCV on my 99 540i. I ended up getting this set and it worked like a charm.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-6...Set/1000594521

[Mark185]

I had the same issue when I replaced the CCV on my 99 540i. I ended up getting this set and it worked like a charm.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-6...Set/1000594521

Thanks! I just ordered the set. I am out of town on a business trip this week. Will try to get it out with one of these extractors when I get home.

[HD ST]

I would also mention I managed to get the bolts off with this set with the intake manifold still on the car. I removed all of the cabin air filter and hood shroud bits but not the intake.

[Mark185]

I had the same issue when I replaced the CCV on my 99 540i. I ended up getting this set and it worked like a charm.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-6...Set/1000594521

I finally had time to work on it today. The Craftsman bolt extractor worked like a charm but only after I removed the intake manifold. I could not get it to 'bite' on the round bolt head in question. It is the hardest one to reach on the CCV right down near the coolant crossover pipe. Impossible to get a straight shot on this bolt and that is definitely why it was stripped. Someone must have tried with a torx bit and because it was not firmly inserted in the bolt head at a 90 degree angle, it stripped. With the manifold off, a light hammer tap on the extractor socket firmly seated it and the bolt came out very easily. I replaced all of the bolts with regular hex heads as others have suggested on this forum.

It's a good thing I pulled the intake manifold. I also found 2 other problems that were probably contributing to the vacuum leak problem. The first involves a plastic tube that goes from the center of the CCV to a hole in the front of the intake manifold. I assume this is where the vacuum that controls the action of the diaphragm comes from. When previous owner (or his mechanic) reassembled the engine after doing the timing chain guides, the small 12.5mm O ring that seals this tube to the hole on the front of the intake was not replaced. The O ring was hard and it had shrunk. It was not sealing and the tube had lots of free play in the hole. The tube I am describing is part # 7 in the picture. The O ring is part # 9. Shoddy work. Who goes to the time and expense to replace timing chain guides and valley pan gasket and cheaps out on replacing a 77 cent O Ring? You don't even need the OEM part. I was able to get an assortment of O Rings at the local auto parts store and reassemble the intake manifold today.

2nd problem is simple and equally troubling. The rubber ring that seals the connection between the Mass Airflow sensor (MAF) and the intake tube was missing. It is part #2 in the attached picture. The mechanic just cranked down on the hose clamp to try to make it seal without the rubber ring. If I was short on time and could not get the part, I would at least wrap the MAF with silicone sealing tape to build up the diameter until I could get the right part. There is a crack in the intake tube from this botched job and I am sure it was part of the reason the engine was not running smooth at all rpms.

I am far from the best mechanic but this is simple stuff and anyone with any skill and integrity would not do this! It makes me wonder what other screw ups I am going to discover as I get to know this car. Thanks to all who gave me tips on how to fix this. I hope to get it running tomorrow.

[Chedley]

With the manifold out of the car, it is a good time to check or replace if necessary - the valley pan gaskets and the knock sensors.
Also, make sure you check and/or replace #10 and #11 in your first diagram, and #8 in the second diagram. They may be causing rough running of the engine.

[Mark185]

Definitely. I ordered all new gaskets before pulling the intake manifold.

[JimLev]

The #7 tube is just for distributing crankcase vapors into the cylinders to be burned.
The #2 rubber ring missing was most likely causing a lot of your problems.

[Mark185]

Problem solved! I got it back together today and the engine is much smoother throughout the rpm range. I wrapped silicone sealing tape around the MAF flange as a substitute for the rubber ring that is missing and it is working for now. New parts will be ordered. Thanks again for all the suggestions. Now I need to sort out the rear suspension. This car has horrendous bump steer on rough roads. I encountered something like this on my E34 Touring when the subframe bushings were shot but the degree of bump steer on this 540i is much much worse. PO told me he replaced all the rubber bushings and the rear ball joints. I don't see how that is possible the way this is driving.

[HD ST]

Glad to hear the extraction set worked well for you. It's awesome you got yours running smoothly again. Waiting on a "new" motor for mine, should be back in a couple of weeks. I reminded the shop that I had just replaced the CCV on the blown motor and I wanted that moved over INCLUDING the hex head bolts. haha