I'm pretty sure one is the guibo or csb. The other started later the same day or next day. I wanted to say p/s pump or maybe pilot bearing, but it seems to be vehicle speed related not engine speed.
Any guesses?
https://youtu.be/02N3pWI42E0
Very hard to hear from the video. I do hear a squeak, not sure if that is exactly what you are talking about.
So if you think it is a P/S pump, take off the belt and see if it still makes the noise. Also take a closer look at all your idle and deflectors, as they too can cause chirping noises.
Last edited by dworthy; 01-08-2020 at 08:55 AM.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
I'm trying to think of what it could be that's wheel speed related. It doesn't seem to be responsive to throttle input.
A bad giubo (not guibo) will vibrate and clunk, not squeak. Bad CSB can squeak, which would be vehicle speed-related. Bad or low PS pumps whine and groan. Belts squeak. Pilot bearings can squeak but not that prominently, and only with the clutch released. My first guess based on the video is a belt, though that wouldn't likely be speed-related. Still, remove both belts and see what changes. If nothing, park the rear end on jackstands and "drive" the car, listening underneath to pinpoint the sound.
After sticking my head out the window while driving, I think it's the csb.
I don't have the option of checking everything thoroughly. So I'm just going to get a guibo and a csb. Should I also get trans and diff/subframe mounts/bushings? I don't want to have to do it again. I think I need the subframe bushings, because of the clunk when shifting.
Thanks
E-34? Yeah, have a look at the dog bones, for they like to pop as the weight shifts.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Dogbones?
There are 2 suspension links on the rear of the car, one for each side, they look like dog bones thus the nickname. They are #6 here: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=HD53-USA-07-1994-E34-BMW-525i&diagId=33_0223
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
You're ready to put the car on jackstands, remove the exhaust and heat shields, remove and disassemble and reassemble the driveshaft, reinstall the exhaust... but not just put it on stands and listen?
Dogbones can creak going over bumps, even small ones (even bouncing the car when parked), but it won't really be speed-related. If you do change those, it's worth getting quality parts (Lemförder, ~$35/ea). Remember to tighten under load.
As far as shared labor (other than lifting it), there's none with the trans mounts and some with the subframe mounts (exhaust has to be lowered, sometimes removed entirely). Diff mounts aren't a common thing to replace on these, and it'd be best to have the exhaust removed and subframe lowered if you do those on the car (as opposed to removing the subframe entirely and replacing the mounts in a press).
Right now all my tools, jack, stands...everything is with my E46 at a friend's house, in the air. 4 or 5 bellhousing bolts to go and I can swap the trans. Actually planning to at least get the old out and new in. I only asked about others mounts/bushings because I didn't know if the excess movement that cause the clunk when shifting could cause the can to go bad again. My wife and I both work, I'm the only driver. So I am trying to finish the e46, because we can't not have a car.
Thank you.
I ordered a csb from fcp euro. And with any luck I'll have the 330 finished up in the next few days. Then I can start on that.
The csb has to be preloaded. I believe I read to push it 4-6mm towards the front of the car and then tighten it down. Can anyone confirm or deny this?
Thanks, Christian
Yes, it has to be pre-loaded towards the front of the car. Just make sure you take note of how it came off, and not put it on backwards of course. I like to just mark where the old one is with a sharpie, that way the new one will go back where the old one was.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
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