CV Axle Circlip jammed/tines smashed- diff repair? - 2005 BMW 325xi

[XenoChron]

I had the misfortune somehow of having the circlip on the end of my front passenger axle that I was replacing roll over on me inside when I was inserting the axle. It wouldn't move forward or back so I had to pound it out. In the process the axle had the tines on the end smashed. Maybe I can fix but more than likely need a new axle.

I'm curious if anyone has had this happen and if fixing the diff if the tines on it are smashed is a huge repair job.

Frankly, I'm ready to give up. Everything on this car has been a pain and not gone right and simple stuff ends up being difficult.

I'm hoping tonight to reinsert the old axle and see if the tines or OK on the diff but I'm not hopeful.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or help.

[Honolulu]

Feel your pain, since I buggered the CV joint attempting a simple boot replacement.

I think you're in for a reman axle, the GKN brand is OE (IIRC) and has served well the last three years. Not cheap, but not terribly expensive. You might still use the axle you have, but if they strip in the diff, you'll be in for much more hurt than now. Best to replace the half shaft. New ones come with boots already installed.

Another note: the "tines" you refer to are properly called "splines".

[XenoChron]

Thanks for the input. The new axle was an entire assembly with boots,etc. Sorry, splines...good grief.

I'm going to try the original axle (been freezing here so maybe next day or two) and see if it inserts w/o a problem. If it does, I'll probably end up getting a new replacement axle and using it. Still baffled how the circlip rolled off the end. It is a slight pain to remove even with a pair of pliers so incredible it just came out on its own. I should have either used the original circlip or a new replacement oem circlip but who knows...could have just been really bad luck.

I'm hesitant to even look at what the process is to get inside the diff to replace a stripped set of _splines_ on the inside of it. I have to imagine that is a lot of hours of work.

Feel your pain, since I buggered the CV joint attempting a simple boot replacement.

I think you're in for a reman axle, the GKN brand is OE (IIRC) and has served well the last three years. Not cheap, but not terribly expensive. You might still use the axle you have, but if they strip in the diff, you'll be in for much more hurt than now. Best to replace the half shaft. New ones come with boots already installed.

Another note: the "tines" you refer to are properly called "splines".

[Critter7r]

I've replaced about a dozen CV shafts on E46s and always have problems with non-OEM clips. I've reused the original OEM circlip on the past 3 sets of aftermarket shafts on my car.

[XenoChron]

Good to know. I've determine my differential is OK and have a new shaft arriving today or tomorrow. Plan on using the orginal circlip this time. Crossing my fingers no further issues.

I've replaced about a dozen CV shafts on E46s and always have problems with non-OEM clips. I've reused the original OEM circlip on the past 3 sets of aftermarket shafts on my car.

[XenoChron]

Just a follow-up to complete this thread.

I got ANOTHER drive shaft replacement and re-used the circlip from the OEM drive shaft and was able to get the shaft in and seated and the car is back together and driveable. Yeah!

After several months of screwing around with this thing (weather issues and cold delayed it - still ended up doing while in high 20's F) got it back together.

I did examine and compare the circlips and the one on the replacement shaft is more round and the oem more of an oval/elongated shape. Glad I still had the OEM clip.

When I seated the drive shaft the part that seats up against the seal probably still feels like it has a 1-2 mm left to go to seat completely. No amount of effort could move it further so I left it and it didn't want to come out. After some driving looked at it again and it didn't budge so hopefully that is ok.

I appreciate the tips and help here. One other tip I found was using a piece of PVC - actually end cap - to push the seal back in when replacing it so I could pound in without damaging it. That reduced my frustrations there too.

[Critter7r]

Thanks for the update.