smooth operator
yup.
I normally put like 3 or 4 feet of extensions together with a universal wobble socket and go from a ways back for some of the higher bolts. then I cut an 11mm or 10mm box end wrench in half and welded the box end to a long handle so I could just slide it down between the head and firewall for the top 2
for our monthly safety meeting at work, the topic of breaking down and pulling off the road in long grass after driving was brought up. it made me think about this because someone was out hunting and parked their Polaris in tall grass to shoot something. the Polaris caught the grass on fire and 22k went up in a grass fire. it just made me think about our heat shields so I just wanted to reiterate to not park in grass.
No e30s again.
Member
REMOVING THE GETRAG 260 Transmission:
Alright folks so last night me and my buddy pulled my transmission out of the car. What a PITA.
- Pulled the shift knob and boot off inside the car including the rubber boot in the floor pan. Also disconnect the reverse sensor (i think?)
- Under the car, Disconnected the bracket that holds the shift linkage in line, 13mm nuts if i remember correctly, and then removed the surclip that holds the two linkage arms together. Also pulled that little bracket that i think the exhaust straps to on the bottom of the trans.
- From here i left the whole shift assembly in one piece rather than popping the b*** clip off. This is because there was so much oil and dirt on the top side of my trans that the b*** clip would've been more of a hassle than its worth to try and pry off. If you have a clean engine and can see this clip well, just get a screw driver or pry bar and flip it up so it rotates and releases the lock and pulls out thus releasing the linkage.
- Not necessarily what you have to do but i disconnected the clutch slave line from the hard line and then took the slave off since it was kind of in the way.
IMG_3718.jpg- RIPPED ALL THE SAGGING AND CRUMBLING SOUND DEADENER OUT THAT I COULD. This stuff really annoyed me. I understand it has its purpose but mine was literally crumbling and sagging to the point where it was just laying on top of the transmission and making it so i couldn't see or reach any bolts on the upper half of the bell housing so i tore/cut out as much of that junk as i could which actually took longer than expected.
IMG_3728.jpg- I removed the trans brace with the tranny mounts on it and put a jack under the trans.
IMG_3720.jpg- Start removing the external torx. There are two different sizes (cant remember off the top of my head) and you're gonna need some extensions and a breaker bar (ratcheting preferably). The bottom ones are easy, the side ones that are the larger size i actually had a little bit of difficulty with because it they were seized in there pretty good. So some PB blast and careful application of heat i was able to break them free. All the way on the top there is another large torx (i think that connected to the starter) which i totally didn't see and tried to pull the trans with it still connected and that one you can kinda guide the extension onto if your arm is small enough and willing to get scratched up while reaching over the right side of the transmission.
- For the starter bolts i found it easiest to take out the air box to get you room to get ur arm in there and pop a 17mm socket on the nut then feed extensions to a ratchet towards the front of the car. Next i put another 17mm socket on the bolt thats on the tranny side and had my buddy feed the extension up to me where i could guide it into the socket. Then some elbow grease and it came out. And like i said i think the other bolt was a Torx. The last bolt with a nut was pretty easy to get out with just a wrench on one side and extension on the other, no craziness.
- Now there should be nothing else holding it on except for that dust guard that connects to the block. I think this is a 10mm bolt but when i pulled my trans i didn't see this plate and started pulling and prying the trans off and it was pulling off except in one area which is when i realized that the dust guard was still connected and wouldn't allow the trans to pull off because its a piece of steel sheet metal and was holding it. Since i pulled the trans so far back i also bent this guard to the point where i couldn't get a socket around the bolt so grabbed the cutting wheel and CAREFULLY cut out the section around the bolt. (Don't be me, take the guard bolt out ahead of time and u can avoid this. This was super sketch bc i didn't want to roast my flywheel, wheel well or the trans and it was in a very tight spot.)
- Yank that sucker out.
IMG_3738.jpgIMG_3740.jpg- Success! Now time to reseal this whole thing. I need to buy the socket for the output flange nut and a 17mm Allen head to take out the drain plug. I would've taken out the output flange nut while it was in car and in gear so that it wouldn't rotate on me but lack of tools and patience made me say F it and just rip the trans out since i've been putting it off.
smooth operator
I always get rid of the sound deadening material also, I consider that making my car faster, ha ha ha
yes, that was the wire for the reverse lights you took off early on
No e30s again.
Member
And we are back...
Before changing all the seals out this weekend, i had to clean the transmission. As mentioned before it was leaking from shifter seal and maybe somewhere else. To clean it i broke out a couple different brushes, engine degreaser, some rags and then a trip to the car wash to power wash it and now its minty.
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Tried to get the output flange off the trans but couldnt get the nut to come off. I ordered the thin wall socket to remove the nut but it started to crack in multiple places and the nut didnt budge. Need to figure out a good method to get it off if anyone has done it with the trans off the car, suggestions welcome
smooth operator
not i
No e30s again.
Member
Still havent gotten the output flange off....But i changed the shift selector seal after ripping it to pieces and carefully hammering a small screw driver into the metal ring to dent it so i could spin and pull it out. (Careful not to f*** up the trans). Once i oiled and slid the new one on i hammered it down carefully with a 15mm socket. I did notice that one side seems to fit around the shaft a little tighter than the other despite both sides being even. Is this normal?? Check my pic below.
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This was the old seal.
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I also popped the detent cover off, cleaned it and put permatex grey all over it. And screwed it back on. I'll put this here because somebody will forget one day.
Springs go shortest closest to the shift selector then longest and 2nd longest. (Not sure if the long ones are the same size but one looks a hair longer).
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Lastly, after heating the nut for a couple mins and then hitting it with the impact, I didnt get the nut off but i cracked the thin wall socket in two places that when you use it it expands and slips.
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I issued a replacement with amazon and they sent me a new one for free. i think im also going to get a regular 30mm and turn it down on a lathe and see if i can pop this nut loose with a breaker. Also i see people saying to get this special tool to hold the flange holes at the same time but i just got a piece of creform pipe which is 1" OD and spun the flange so the bottom was flat against the pipe and the pipe sits wedged between the flange the tranny mount flanges.
If anyone knows about the shift selector seal let me know, i think i put it in correctly seeing as i lubed it and just tapped it down flush, but the larger gap on the top side was weird even though that shaft does slide up and down.
Last edited by ZeroDarkE30; 01-27-2020 at 06:40 AM.
Member
Yesterday I managed to get the transmission back in the car after resealing the transmission and replacing the clutch. I had to use an impact to get that nut off. The Husky 30mm thin wall socket from the local HD held up but did show some signs of stress. Getting that nut torqued the first time was tough on the floor. I ended up using a heavy duty screw driver wedged between the drive flange studs. Then of course, back it off, add sealer and re-torque.
As for the selector rod bushing, I didn't notice a gap at the top, it looked good all the way around. I'll take a look when I'm under the car today.
Your collective laugh for the day, I have a short shifter rod in the car, get it all back together and the rod is out 180 degrees. First gear is WAY too far forward. Today's project is to jack the car up and flip it!
Doing this job on the floor is a beast! I've done my share of sit-ups getting up and down off the creeper!
2004 525i Sport, Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual
Member
Ive tried impacts and everything else. I got a 30mm from HD that fits in there now so im gonna wait for my buddy to try and use a breaker and get that bastard off. And that sucks man, but should be a quick fix. Im considering pulling out the shift rod seal again and buying another one just to see if thats just how it is. It was annoying to get the old one out but i might just want the piece of mind.Originally Posted by tomstin
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Also, did you put any grease on the shift rod ball before putting the connecting piece back on and the pin back in?
Member
Yes, I used Sil-Glyde which is usually used on sunroof slides. It really helps on my sunroofs and thought if it’s good there and holds up to temperatures and weather I would try it on the shift rod ball.
2004 525i Sport, Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual
Member
opened my shifter rebuild kit last night since i am so frustrated with the output flange nut. Changed out some bushings and it feels 10000 times better already. wish the ecs kit came with some instructions as to what goes where but the packing slip helps you kind of figure your way out once you start putting things in with educated guesses.
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Tip for putting the shift ball bushing in is put the bushing on the ball FIRST then push it into the arm. I did the opposite first and couldnt get the ball into the bushing/arm then realized it wasnt gonna happen.
Tomorrow im gonna try to get that output flange nut off with a 3/4" drive impact gun and pray. If it doesnt come off with that then im gonna need a shop to do it or something...running out of options.
Member
A favorite strategy of mine, when you get frustrated, find something to distract you for awhile, have a little success, and get back to it. Good luck with that damn nut!
2004 525i Sport, Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual
Member
I think I've lost faith in penetrants, but at least you can say you've tried everything. Maybe try acetone/atf 5050 mix?
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🤭
Member
Never heard of that before but its worth a try. First im gonna try the 3/4" Impact and then we will see from there. Tomorrow my hylomar blue and Curil K2 come in so i can start working on the input shaft seals and button that all up and put that section of the trans back together.
Member
If you do end up trying that be careful with it around paint, plastic and rubber seals. I'm not exactly sure what the efficacy of using heat is in this area. If you can safely heat it up I'd go with a mapp gas (yellow) torch from home Depot or wherever haha. Good luck!
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Also of you do use that shake it right before use as it separates fast.
Member
GOT THE OUTPUT FLANGE NUT OFF!!! With a torch, a 1 inch pipe to hold the flange, another set of hands to push the 3/4" drive impact into the trans while i held it in place and alternating between tightening and loosening with the impact and we popped that sucker off!!!! THANK GOD. The output flange pulled right out too with barely any need for a puller. Glad that is out of the way, it was giving me nightmares. Also if anyone knows the part number for a new output flange nut let me know, cant seem to find it on Real OEM.
Member
CONGRATULATIONS!
Look here: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=23_0145
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=23217572241
23217572241
Collar nut
M20X1,5
2004 525i Sport, Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual
Member
My man...Thanks i was looking at the wrong diagram this whole time because i didnt see the output flange in that exploded view.
Member
I recently spent three days with a torch and 9 lbs sledge hammer to get a siezed axle out of a wheel bearing on my daily driver. Had to get rides from my gf to work. My neighbors probably thought I was crazy, when I finally saw the axle move on day 3 I was going nuts on my driveway screaming all by myself. No better feeling haha! Glad to hear you got the nut off!
Member
I had the same problem.
Ended up using a spiral wrap - meant I didn't have to pull apart the loom to add new sheathing.
Example https://www.narva.com.au/products/56700
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Have a look at the finished product here
Member
Been a little while since i got into the garage, but last night i was able to get the output shaft seal done but had issues with getting the input flange off. The green/white sealant that was used to seal up the input shaft flange/plate that the throwout bearing guide tube bolts to is stuck. tried a small amount of heat and some pulling and twisting but it didnt budge at all. I think what im going to do is grab a BIG jaw puller and loosen all the throw out bearing guide tube bolts so i can pull that section up and use the flange of the guide tube to try and pull the input plate off. Idk if anyone else has ever had this issue when trying to change the input shaft seal.
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In the meantime, i got the pressure plate, clutch and flywheel all off with some help from a buddy holding the crank while i loosened the bolts. Clutch, pressure plate and flywheel actually all look pretty good, but i got a new clutch kit anyways so theyre getting tossed in there. Ill have the fly wheel resurfaced at a shop around here. With all that stuff off i could finally see the rear main seal. It was definitely leaking, When i pulled the flywheel bolts out oil was pouring out of the holes and the bottom of the seal looks like its leaking. In the picture you can also see the remnant of the valve cover gasket seal leak.
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Last thing i did last night was pull the clutch master out to replace it with a new one. Working under the dash is a tight space and i honestly would rather work under neath the car. To get the clutch master out, i disconnected the main pivot bolt then I actually disconnected the throttle cable, and spring for the gas pedal so i could move the gas pedal assembly out of my way so i could get to the two mounting nuts for the master cylinder. Previously i had already disconnected the hydraulic line that goes to the slave so once i got those mounting bolts out the only thing i had to do was pull the soft line from the master reservoir off and yank the old master out. Been waiting on some parts to come in before i can continue with the clutch lines so thats where i left it.
Overall successful night minus that input shaft plate being stuck. Nothing is ever easy with this damn transmission. Oh well, we are definitely getting close. Once the trans is all sealed up im going to have to address the oil pan gasket and i'm not looking forward to that. I'm trying to decide whether i want to drop the subframe or just use a hoist and pull the engine up enough to slide the pan out, but that conversation is for another day.
Member
Got the input flange plate off with some ingenuity! The Jaw puller jaws were too chunky to grab under the throw out bearing tube flange so i ended up putting a small wrench under the plate then securing it on opposite sides and i got the puller to grab underneath the wrench and then used an impact to slowly draw the puller in and next thing i know it popped right off. So stoked i got that off! Here are some pics of my setup.
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This weekend i plan to finish up sealing the transmission and take the brake master cylinder and booster out to refresh them.
smooth operator
nice
No e30s again.
Member
Alright been few days so heres the latest:
I took the engine bay brake system out. That included removing the master cylinder, reservoir, brake booster, proportional valve and clutch master. Removing the master reservoir is easy it just wiggles out of the two grommets in the top of the cylinder. The disconnect the brake lines with flare nut wrenches and unbolt it from the booster. Beneath that is the proportional valve which you just disconnect all the brake lines again. Now for the booster. Theres a Circlip that holds the pin that goes through the brake pedal that you need to disconnect. There are also 4 nuts under the dash panel that hold the booster on. They are relatively easy to get to with an extension and swivel then just zip em off with the impact gun. There is also a vacuum line connected to it and i couldn't pull the clamps off or get it off without wrecking the barbs so i cut the hose. Taking the booster out takes a little bit of wiggling and unfortunately pushing the brake lines a little to get the whole backend of the booster out of the firewall. Booster is rusty so i wire brushed and sanded it and i'm in the process of repainting it black. The master works fine but its rusty and could probably be rebuilt but im gonna save the time and just buy a new one.
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I also got the pilot bearing out using the good ol' bread method. I stuffed about 1 slice of potato bread into the pilot bearing center and taped around a differential bolt for a tight seal and used a 3lb dead blow to get it out. Took about a half hour of packing bread in and hitting the bolt before it finally popped out. The old pilot bearing was a two piece with the protector cover, foam, and an exposed ball bearing but the new one is a single piece concealed bearing. To get it in i used a socket and hammer and worked it in basically until it seemed like it didnt want to go in anymore. There looks like there was a small machined feature stop.
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The rear main seal came out with the carrier and i popped that off quickly as well. The rear main was leaking pretty bad where the bolts when i took the flywheel off the bolts were all oozing oil out.
Now for the oil pan, I got a hoist on the side of the car and pulled the engine up a bit. To lift the engine i took the nuts off of the engine mounts and the power steering reservoir was already disconnected because i am replacing the leaking lines anyways. To get the oil pan out, i disconnected the lollipop bushings, the 4 subframe bolts and then disconnected the strut tower bolts from the top side of the engine bay so i could drop the subframe enough to hold wiggle the oil pan out after removing all the bolts. It definitely took some finagling but by lifting the engine a little big by hand and rotating the oil pan i slid it out. Make sure to hold the subframe up slightly with a jack so you dont stress everything too much.
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Member
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Now its time to scrub the pan of all the oil that was leaking out of the gasket. The old oil pan gasket was leaking literally everywhere so it is long overdue to replace. I have the new cork/rubber one but i plan on using some permatex no. 2 on the block side and the pan side before putting the gasket on. I read that regular RTV absorbs into the cork and makes it crack over time so hopefully no.2 will work well.
Oh and i forgot to mention when i took the reservoir for the master cylinder out, i broke the spade that the wire connects too because it was so brittle so now i need a new cap. I also cleaned the reservoir with 99% isopropyl alcohol and shook it up then some simple green and hot water then more alcohol and dried it out.
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Lastly, i decided to change the shift shaft seal out AGAIN because i wasnt comfortable with how the replacement looked with the gaps. This one came out much easier since i knew what i was doing and it wasnt already crumbling. This one is a corteco. Its nicer and seals better. The first one i replaced it with was an elring which was fine but i like this one more. With the input plate and throwout bearing tube out i was able to change the input shaft seal and put hylomar blue on the plate and tube faces and close it all up. Now the trans is all resealed and i put new fill/drain plugs in with the external hex rather than the internal hex and they fit just fine. With the whole thing sealed up, i put the new fork pivot in (brass instead of plastic) and put my cleaned up fork and new retainer in.
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Plan for today is clean the oil pan, order oil pan bolts and a bunch of other parts like a new master cylinder and alternator pulley since i think thats why it squeals/slips when you blip the throttle.
Member
Little mid day update got some stuff clean:
Oil Pan:
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Bell housing Mounting Section (Idk what this thing is actually called):
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