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Thread: 1987 325is Build Thread!!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
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    1987 BMW 325is

    1987 325is Build Thread!!

    I just got my 325is to my house and figured i would document the glory of working of smashing my fingers and finding new leaks on this forum!

    A little background on the car:
    This car was my uncle's and the past 15 years in a garage underneath piles and piles of junk. Lucky for me my father saw the car and told my uncle that he wanted help him get it out of the garage. A few months later my uncle's house experienced a fire that engulfed the whole house (nobody injured) EXCEPT for the garage. A sure sign that I was meant to bring this red hunk of shit back to life. Once the fire was put out we pulled this E30 out and took it home! Fast forward a year my father got it running by getting the radiator and water pump replaced and then towed it up to my house and I just started to work on it today!

    Condition:
    The car is running and driving. The exterior and frame have very little rust because it sat in the garage for so long. That being said there are a few little spots around the tail lights and trim, but overall its exceptionally clean for a NY car.

    Shifter is extremely sloppy. Picking a gear is a guessing game. Definitely needs full shifter rebuild.

    The brakes are sketchy: very soft pedal, calipers are rusty, soft lines are starting to crack.

    Catalytic converter heat shield rusted away and is kinda just hanging out shifting around on the mid pipe.

    Transmission mounts are SHOT. Cracking and ripping, definitely need replacement.

    LEAKS:
    The valve cover gasket was leaking (is fixed now), but there is still oil all over the bottom half of the engine so i need to clean it all up and see where it weeps from so i can clearly differentiate sources.
    The oil pan looks like the gasket is ripped and needs replacement causing a leak. There is also oil on the back half of the transmission and not on the front bell housing, when i look up at where the output shaft and drive shaft connect it looks like the oil/tranny fluid could be coming from there.

    Engine:
    The engine idle is rough. Kind of expected with a car that has sat this long but i am running SeaFoam through it and letting it exercise a bit. It has been getting better but when you blip the throttle the revs drop to almost dying and then come back up. I checked the spark plug wiring harness (recently replaced) for the sensor on plug 6 and it is hooked up so i suspect it might just be bad gas thats in the motor that just needs to make its way out.
    The belts were recently replaced when the water pump was changed out but it throws a squeal when hitting the throttle quick and it sounds like it might be caused by the bushings in the alternator being worn allowing it to shift when blipping and making the belt slip but i will have to further assess.
    Valves need an adjustment pretty badly. Ticking is pretty audible and i will have to get a feeler gauge set and adjust them my self (never done this before).
    There is also this shuddering rattle that i haven't been able to identify yet, not that bad and cant hear it from inside the car but it annoys me none the less.
    Air intake boot is ripped.

    Interior:
    Interior is pretty good overall. Seats work but the leather is cracking on the driver side and on the passenger side the back bolster is ripped open and exposing the foam. The main upper dashboard is not cracked but the knee dash is all sorts of cracked and needs replacement. At one point there was an alarm system installed but thats all ripped out now and there is a ton of superfluous wiring that needs to go. Tach went out for a bit but now came back. Speedo is dead, not sure why but it worked for like a month and then went out. There is also a water leak or something in the trunk that causes condensation on the trunk lid and then soaks the carpet. In the main cabin there was mildew from sitting for so long and it has a FUNK. So far i've tried simple green and vinegar spray and its slightly better.

    Now time to get to work!
    Last edited by ZeroDarkE30; 01-07-2020 at 06:56 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    1987 BMW 325is
    fullsizeoutput_1d1c.jpg
    fullsizeoutput_1d12.jpg
    fullsizeoutput_1d0e.jpg
    Transmission leak i think from the output shaft...
    fullsizeoutput_1d10.jpg
    Transmission mounts that are crumbling
    fullsizeoutput_1cf4.jpg
    Interior

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    1987 BMW 325is

  4. #4
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    1987 BMW 325is
    Mess under the wheel
    fullsizeoutput_1cf1.jpg
    Passenger seat rip
    fullsizeoutput_1cd4.jpg
    Shifter boot ripped (shifter also desperately needs a rebuild)
    fullsizeoutput_1cf0.jpg

  5. #5
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    1987 BMW 325is
    First thing i did was disconnect the exhaust from the cat so i could get to the drive shaft/transmission easily. The Muffler came off pretty easily since it was replaced not too long ago.
    fullsizeoutput_1ce2.jpg
    After that I reached a snag where i couldn't get the nuts off of the headers for the mid pipe. I sprayed it with some pb blast last night and im gonna let it sit until tonight. Im also going to pick up a torch and try to heat them up to get them out of there.
    fullsizeoutput_1cd8.jpg
    In the mean time i started on the brakes. the calipers, rotors, & pads were all rusty and need replacement since they sat for so long. I sucked out all the brake fluid i could from the master cylinder and got the caliper bolts off with a 17mm and an extension. The bottom bolts were definitely more difficult to get off but not crazy. I loosened the brake line with a 14mm flare wrench and then spun the caliper off the line and dumped the fluid into a catch can with my buddy stomping the brakes.
    fullsizeoutput_1cfd.jpg
    fullsizeoutput_1cf8.jpg
    fullsizeoutput_1cf9.jpg
    Today ill pull the front calipers and rotors, and try to pull the mid pipe off again.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
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    Hartford, CT
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    1987 BMW 325is

    Removing Exhaust

    Update:
    So last night i got finally got the mid pipe disconnected from the headers after letting the nuts soak in PB blast overnight and then using a ratcheting breaker bar and a long extension with a semi rounded end on it so the 14mm deep socket had enough wiggle to make the angles to get onto the nuts since they are angled all funky. I also had to remove the heat shielding that covers the passenger side engine mount to get more clearance for the ratchet head, those are 10mm nuts and bolts. It might have been easier to get one or two of the nuts on the rear manifold if i took the sway bar out to get a better angle but like i said with the semi wobbly extension and a ratcheting wrench and an battery impact gun i was able to get it off.

    Also bought a yellow BernzOmatic torch (TS8000) last night just in case i couldn't get the nuts off but i ended up being ok. I'm sure ill need it for something else down the line so its good to have anyways.

    Tonight hopefully i can get in there and take all the heat shielding out and then take out the drive shaft. If not ill try to tackle it on Wednesday.

    (Side note: Home depot knee pads and Carhartt flannel lined overalls are phenomenal purchases for working in a concrete detached (Cold as f**k) garage)
    IMG_2341.jpg
    Mid Pipe finally disconnected. You are probably going to want a buddy to hold or some sort of jack underneath the mid-pipe/cat when you start getting the nuts off because as the nuts start to come off the studs get stressed from hanging the mid-pipe and it makes the nuts harder to thread off and once it really starts to come off it will almost fall on your face like it did with me.
    IMG_9740.jpg
    A look at the header studs disconnected.
    IMG_0357.jpg
    My gross catalytic converter heat shield that is all rusted and crumbling off.

    Open question to anyone reading, do i need this cover?? there is the overall heat shielding between the drive shaft and the exhaust lines so is this cover necessary? Just asking because idk if they sell replacements/how i would even get one on.
    Last edited by ZeroDarkE30; 01-17-2020 at 09:26 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    corpus christi, texas
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    No e30s, again :(
    you can take it off. its more to protect grass and stuff you might drive over than the driveshaft. they usually rust out on all kinds of vehicles and I just throw them away with no troubles.
    No e30s again.

  8. #8
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    Jan 2020
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    Hartford, CT
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    1987 BMW 325is
    Its been rattling when hitting the throttle so i think im going to just chop it off. Thanks!
    '87 325is
    Build Thread Here

  9. #9
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    1987 BMW 325is
    Just bought the parts for replacing all the tranny seals, driveshaft CSB and guibo. FYI the bolts and nuts for the guibo are M10x50 Grade 10 bolts and M10 Class 10 locking nuts, the washer as you might have guessed is an M10 as well. Pelican wanted dumb money for the bolts so i ended up buying everything off of mcmaster carr, for less than just the price of the bolts. Ill have bunch of extra hardware since the packages are 10 bolts, 100 washers and 25 nuts, but i saved money in the end anyways and always good to have big bolts when using chains and what not so im sure theyll get used. Tomorrow the heat shield and drive shaft are coming out...hopefully.
    '87 325is
    Build Thread Here

  10. #10
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    No e30s, again :(
    the shifter might have the old style console and the rubber mounts are probably bad. that's super common on the older style shift set up. the pieces are like 5 bucks each from the dealership. the reason it dies when you blip the throttle is the afm boot.
    No e30s again.

  11. #11
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    1987 BMW 325is

    Removing Drive Shaft

    Got under the car today and popped the drive shaft out. Started off by removing all the heat shielding which was quick work. I started by removing the 3 17mm bolts/nuts that connect the transmission flange to the drive shaft and then made my way to the rear of the shaft. I then realized i goofed up and should've taken the rear out first then the front because as i started to turn the wrench in the back of the car, the drive shaft started to rotate because nothing was holding it from moving since i removed it from the flange. Once i realized this i put the bolts back through the giubo and flange and then tried to remove the rear diff nuts again. These suckers were on there real tight so i tried letting pb blast sit for a bit but it wasn't enough. Out came the torch. Lit up the nuts on the differential and then popped my wrench on the nuts and they came outta there nice and easy. Then i took out the screws holding the CSB off. With those off i took the bolts out of the transmission flange again and was able to wiggle the drive shaft out in combination with prying the flanges off the shaft ends. After the drive shaft was out i used two breaker bars and got the nuts and bolts out to disconnect the giubo.
    IMG_4992 2.jpg
    Also i have this vibration damper thing that goes around the giubo and i think im just going to leave it off unless there are any objections. My buddy has an e36 and no such damper.
    IMG_4480 2.jpgIMG_3656.jpg
    Looking at the Giubo it is totally wrecked and desperately needed replacement. Furthermore, the bolts were all facing the same way when i took them out which i'm pretty sure is incorrect.
    IMG_2674 2.jpg
    I took better look at the transmission mounts and god are they disgusting. Crumbling, ripping, the works. Those are in the mail as we speak as well.
    The drive shaft at the middle spline actually wasn't screwed together with that big collar nut when i took it out. So that was sick. Considering taking it to a drive shaft shop and having them just give it a once over and potentially fixing the U-joints since its out and i dont plan on popping it out in the near future once it goes back in. Not sure how much that will cost though (If anyone has done this, let me know how much it ran you.)

    I started playing with the shifter assembly from the bottom and there is so much play its disgusting. on the inside of the car, every gear wobbles like its in neutral. I already ordered the new shifter rebuild kit.
    IMG_3674.jpg
    The transmission looks like it is leaking from the shifter seal, which is interesting because i originally thought it was the output shaft because oil was collecting all around the output but i guess it was just cascading down from the shifter seal and as the drive shaft spun it just flew everywhere.

    Tomorrow i think ill work on the brakes and give myself a rest before laying on my back for another couple of hours and struggling to get the top hard to reach transmission bolts off. So if anyone has ideas as to the easiest way to remove the trans please let me know! Thats all for tonight, this weekend is going to be 60 degrees so thatll be nicer than my 19 degree garage at the moment.
    Last edited by ZeroDarkE30; 01-17-2020 at 09:26 AM.
    '87 325is
    Build Thread Here

  12. #12
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    No e30s, again :(
    yes, you can get rid of that damper. and three bolts should face the other way, if I remember right.
    No e30s again.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
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    Milwaukee, WI
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    553
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    1989 325ix, 2003 4.4 x5
    There's a YouTube channel where a guy rebuilds his e30...practical enthusiast. He kinda touches on those three bolts in some detail. He used very long extension s...like multiple ft, to get on the bolts from the middle of the car, above the transmission. Am I remembering correct that he needed to hold a nut in place on the back side or may e that was something else...he had so.e method for that as well coming in from the engine bay. Ive never done it ha and don't know if his method is the best.

  14. #14
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    No e30s, again :(
    Yes, you have to put a 17mm wrench on the back of each one
    No e30s again.

  15. #15
    Join Date
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    1987 BMW 325is

    Removing Brakes

    Small update: Yesterday i was working on the brakes and the front left rotor gave me issues. The retaining bolt that goes through to the hub (Size 5 Hex) wouldn't come out and eventually i stripped it. The rest of the rotors came out fine. I recommend for the front rotors, you stick a screw driver into the one of the slots of the rotor to keep the hub from spinning and then positioned it so you can either hold the screw driver between your feet or if your screw driver is long enough, have it get wedged against the floor as you turn the bolt. For the Rear rotors i just turned on the parking brake.

    As for the difficult one... First thing i tried was making a slot in the head of the bolt so i could try and get a screw driver in there to turn. The slot was created with an angle grinder and was fine but the bolt was in there too tight for me to get enough torque on a screw driver.
    IMG_1849.jpg
    Since that didn't work i went the route of trying to drill the head out, but my drill bit set wasn't meant for steel so it wasn't doing very much.
    Lastly I took the angle grinder and i just cut/ground the head of the bolt off down to the bottom of the counter bore on the rotor so that it wasn't holding the rotor on anymore. This finally worked and then i whacked it with a hammer and the rotor popped right off. Be careful if you do this method because you will be moving the grinder around a lot and don't want to mess your hub up. With the rotor off, i sprayed the remainder of the stud that was in the hub with PB Blast let it sit for a little then heat it with a torch and spun it out with vice grips. Its a small little bolt so there wasnt much meat for me to grab with the vice grips but i got it out with relative ease.
    IMG_0427.jpgIMG_5127.jpg

    After this excursion i cleaned up the hubs a little with some pb blast and a brillo pad and starting taking the soft hoses out to replace with braided stainless ones i got from Garagistic. Today ill change out the rest of the hoses and put my new rotors, calipers and pads on to make some space in my house with the piles of parts. Once thats done im gonna start the transmission which i've been putting off because i know its going to be a pain....
    Last edited by ZeroDarkE30; 01-17-2020 at 09:27 AM.
    '87 325is
    Build Thread Here

  16. #16
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    No e30s, again :(
    A large number of people do not put that little bolt back in because they become a pain, as yours did.
    No e30s again.

  17. #17
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    1987 BMW 325is

    Rebuilding Brakes/ New Brake Lines

    Finished up the brakes today. The brake hoses in the rear that connect the two hard lines were a PITA. These hoses are kinda tucked over the rear sub frame and makes it super difficult to get the flare wrenches in there. My fittings were a little rusty too so i shot them with PB blast and let them sit for like 30 mins while i ate lunch. The rear driver side one was slightly easier because the gas tank geometry allows for some more room. On the passenger side, I ended up cutting the hose so i could get more room around the fitting and then i clamped a vice grip onto the fitting to hold it while i turned the 11 mm flare wrench on the hard line side.
    IMG_1770.jpg
    With those hoses out, i put the new stainless lines on and then popped the new rotors, calipers and pads.
    IMG_3681.jpg
    Had a slight snag when installing the rear pads into the new calipers. First i put the piston side pad into the caliper but was unable to get the second pad into the caliper because of the meat on the pads. What i ended up doing putting in one end of the non moving pad into its slot and then pivoting the pad where it was just against the the other pad barely and then i whacked it until it dropped into the cavity. Embarrassingly, it took me like 30 min to figure that out. My calipers were so rusty and needed a rebuild so i just bought new (technically refurbed) ones from rock auto and will be returning the old ones to get my money back for the core charge. My rear pads were SHOT, zero pad left just the metal backing shown in the pic below.
    IMG_0175.jpg
    IMG_8619.jpg
    IMG_4004.jpg
    Last edited by ZeroDarkE30; 01-17-2020 at 09:30 AM.
    '87 325is
    Build Thread Here

  18. #18
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    2003 E46 M3 / E30 Vert
    I havent done the trans on the E30 yet but on my E36 and E39 it helps to disconnect the Fan from the water pump pulley and then removing the cross member completely so that the engine/trans can tilt back as far as possible. This gives you just enough clearance for it to not be a complete PITA for access.

  19. #19
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    1987 BMW 325is
    IMG_6760.jpg
    IMG_2931.jpg
    IMG_9580.jpg

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Thrifty S50 View Post
    I havent done the trans on the E30 yet but on my E36 and E39 it helps to disconnect the Fan from the water pump pulley and then removing the cross member completely so that the engine/trans can tilt back as far as possible. This gives you just enough clearance for it to not be a complete PITA for access.
    Yeah i plan on removing cross member that supports the trans to get some clearance on the top side. Im more concerned about the bolts that pass through to the starter. Ill try the method in the practical enthusiast video on youtube but wont know if it will work for me until i get in there!
    '87 325is
    Build Thread Here

  20. #20
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    1987 BMW 325is

    Wiring Clean Up

    Only thing left on the brakes is to pull out the master cylinder tank to clean it out since the bottom of it is coated in nasty cloudy thick brake fluid.
    In the mean time i decided to clean up the wiring on the interior of the car. My uncle had put an alarm system in the car and screwed in this dumb horn on the wheel well in the engine bay so i took that out, cut and removed all the BS splicing (retaped over all the spots he cut into) and pulled the rats nest out. After that i was able to zip tie a bunch of the harnesses together to clean it up. Looks 1000x better now.
    Old Wiring Mess
    fullsizeoutput_1cf1.jpg
    Ripping out all the extraneous junk.
    IMG_4948.jpg
    Cleaned up pretty nicely.
    IMG_2100.jpg

    While i was in the engine bay removing the alarm horn, i pulled out the ripped intake boot that is before the filter. I knew it was ripped, but didn't realize it was this bad until i pulled it out.
    IMG_4757.jpg
    Last edited by ZeroDarkE30; 01-17-2020 at 09:30 AM.
    '87 325is
    Build Thread Here

  21. #21
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    Question: My wire sheathings in the wheel wells that go to the brake pad sensors and the other sensor on the rotor cover are crumbling off. Anyone recover the wires with another type of sheathing/loom? dont want to just electrical tape it, shouldnt get too hot, but if anyone has done this with a specific material or something let me know
    '87 325is
    Build Thread Here

  22. #22
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    No e30s, again :(
    I am sure you can put any sheath or loom on it you wish. I have never had to so I cannot give personal experience
    No e30s again.

  23. #23
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    1987 BMW 325is
    Having another while i'm in there moment but i should probably just buy a new starter motor while the trans is out because itll be a pain to ever replace it if it goes bad and its probably the original 33 year old one at this point....more money to spend great.
    '87 325is
    Build Thread Here

  24. #24
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    No e30s, again :(
    ha ha ha, that's the life of being a rich bmw owner, ha ha ha
    No e30s again.

  25. #25
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    1987 BMW 325is
    Transmission is out!! longer post tomorrow since its 12:20 am here but jeez what a pain that was!!
    '87 325is
    Build Thread Here

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