Got it all reassembled now, I was putting the engine cover on right as it started raining.
20231201_145333.jpg
Filling it and bleeding the air out tomorrow. If all goes well, under cover goes back on and she's all done.
2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig
Where’s Mooll?
I've spent the last couple days retrofitting an electric steering column on my E38.
The job itselft is not too bad but the column is fixed in place by fracture bolts that can be hard to remove without a hammer.
All the wiring goes to the module under the driver's seat.
This is how it looks once finished: https://youtube.com/shorts/QOVt2QkFhig
IMG_2096.jpgIMG_2050.jpgIMG_2059.jpg
Well, I woke up and was ready to pull my power steering pump. Got the 3rd rear nut off after a git of gooey "fun", then ran to the parts store for a 24mm wrench to attack the banjo bolts with. Soon as I got back, Iris said "nope"
20231203_142121.jpg
I'm 90% certain the service tech that replaced the lines before me was Donkey Kong. I can't get enough force on the wrench to break them loose. When Sreten did this exact same job on Project Dubai, the car was on a lift so the massive well of torque called "your legs" would break anything loose. No room to use a jack because of the oil pan, and I can't push it counterclockwise hard enough with just my arms.
2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig
Last edited by Btkeenan; 12-05-2023 at 06:44 PM.
2001 BMW 740i | 2013 Ford SVT Raptor | 2018 Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD
I agree, hitch the wrench with a hammer. My favorite for that is the 3 lb mini sledge. Easy to put plenty of force into the wrench without a big swing, so not much risk of missing and smashing something else.
Just for S&G while talking Rotaries with a guy in Malta, I went out in the near-freezing cold with two wrenches and gave it a go with my non-dominant hand...
20231204_140829.jpg
It's draining now. Total "hold my beer" moment. Probably took ~100 ft.lbs, so 135 Newton-meters to break it free after being on there for who knows how long. The M14 line came off with no fuss.
Pump is out now. Dirty.
20231204_153228.jpg
And the opening. This is what teaches us to swear in German.
20231204_152950.jpg
Time for dinner, then gonna start cleaning up the pump.
Last edited by SilverIris; 12-04-2023 at 05:02 PM. Reason: More pics
2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig
So I found the leak...Transmission Cooler Thermostat cracked.
Leak 2.jpg
This is the O-ring port from the water Pump line. Left side of the pic, facing the exhaust manifold is where it failed along the seam. It catches a fingernail, so it's shot.
2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig
It was yesterday, but it counts. Got my E38 back together with a new OE Mahle Transmission Cooler Thermostat from FCP Euro, full of her fluids and back on the ground with no leaks. Fun fact: The E38 cooling system is designed to be self-bleeding and the Expansion Tank works like the FD RX7's Air Separation Tank. Very clever stuff.
Today, I'm just cleaning up after everything got buttoned up. Then I fixed the hood release cable with a common brake cable adjuster from the local bicycle shop. Pop that on the passenger side latch, the "cup" facing the driver's side and then spin the factory adjustment down to ~2-3mm. Now it's got the proper tension to pop effortlessly every time.
And at this second, I have two glove box handles on the bench to see if I can transplant the lock cylinder into the perfect donor one I scored last year for $5 at a salvage yard. Along with another cable adjuster to restore proper tension since the usual repair block method has proven rather difficult to work with during final reassembly..
Last edited by SilverIris; 12-16-2023 at 08:29 PM. Reason: replaced part details
2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig
Had a really long crank and then voltage was jumping from 12.6-13.9 (depending on rpm and braking) while on errands this morning. So went to the local Advance Auto for a battery test. lol, the kid at the counter wondered why I was going to the trunk… then he recalled I wanted batteries tested… then was confused when I had two hooked up to the 7… the uninitiated are funny…
So quick test (starter battery failing) and a replacement swap and all is right again.
Happy Holidays/Merry Xmas/Jolly Festivus!
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Last edited by TheAngryBear; 12-24-2023 at 09:48 PM.
Picked up my manual! Very excited to have it
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2014 BMW F32 428i "Bella"
2013 BMW E82 128i "Austin"
2000 BMW E38 750iL "Stella"
EuroFever
Drive fast, Ask Later
2001 BMW 740i | 2013 Ford SVT Raptor | 2018 Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD
2014 BMW F32 428i "Bella"
2013 BMW E82 128i "Austin"
2000 BMW E38 750iL "Stella"
EuroFever
Drive fast, Ask Later
2001 BMW 740i | 2013 Ford SVT Raptor | 2018 Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD
I would like that PDF as well and thank you!
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The Morels have a lower bass than the BavSound or OEM speakers ..for my setup - I have a JBC Ghost Sub mounted in the trunk - having a lower bass in the doors complements the need to turn up the rear bass .. the mid-range in the Morels is crystal clear - and the BavSound tweeters are hands-down the way to go … took several years and different setups to get it to the way I wanted it .. but at The Vintage - I leave all 5 ‘doors’ open and crank the OE Sirius radio up and ‘let the music play’ always get a lot of compliments and folks are a bit surprised when I show them how tightly and neatly the sub fits high and tight to the rear deck - you can find Morel here -> www.morelhifi.com
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Hello
Sorry for replying late, but I too, would love to have the PDF. Thank you
740i 1995
750i 1997
730d 2001
W221 M272 S350
R230 M272 SL280
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