I'm at the point where I need to remove the trans cooler lines, TC bolts and bellhousing bolts. I don't have a jack to use in the dirt, probably would have much luck with that. Problem is I don't have an extra person to help me either. Any ideas? I don't trust myself to be able to get it to the ground safely. Already smashed one of my fingers setting down the replacement on my porch.
Thanks.
Lay down some plywood and go find a jack rent it buy it but get a jack and don't ask anybody to help you muscle it out, that's not cool
It's at my friend's house. His idea, but he's gone to work out of town. I have a big floor jack. But one caster is not so great.
Also, is there a specific way to make sure the trans and TC have enough fluid? I believe still has fluid in it, some came from somewhere when I hurt my finger and the TC fell off.
here I posted the details https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...lication-Chart
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Thank you. So I don't have to worry about if it got too low....I was thinking about how I had to fill the clutch slave cylinder when I replace a bunch of stuff on another car.
Got the transmission up, but can't seem to get it straight and flush against the engine. Pulled it down to make sure the converter is fully seated. Haven't been able to figure out is holding it back. The closest we've gotten is a gap of about half an inch between the engine and transmission. I'm going to use a bore scope tomorrow to look and see if I can figure it out. Either way the trans is coming all the way down, check the converter, compare it to the old one. Is there anything else I might want to check?
Thanks
I finally got the trans on straight. I can get the 5 lower bolts in, but the top 4 seem to be getting caught on the metal plate/shim between the engine/trans. I figured if I keep all the bolts loose I should be able to wiggle things around a little and get the rest of the bolt in. The starter seems like fun, trying to get it mounted without removing the intake. With some luck and my little arms I might be able to. I already unbolted the black canister and control arm bushing to get some more room.
Just wondering if there are any tips or tricks that might help with where I'm at.
Thanks guys.
Make sure to sand and lube the starter dowel and the hole it goes into. Make sure it is properly seated before drawing in both bolts together. Have the battery negative cable disconnected.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Make damn sure the torque converter isn't the hold up. If not fully engaged in the pump you will destroy the pump drawing the trans in with the bolts. You should have some clearance between the flywheel and TC, if it's already touching and you can't push it further back in the trans you need to re seat the TC into the pump. Relieve any pressure and turn it while pushing to the rear.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Yeah, I've done that several times during this experience. I'm pretty sure it's on properly. The problem is that if you look at the bolt holes straight on, the thin plate piece is just enough off to catch the bolt and stop it from going through to the threaded part on the engine/starter.
There should be alignment dowels to align this and the gearbox.
If you are off a hair I suggest being a bit more persuasive. Not fixing a watch, you know?
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
After loosening the bolts that were in, I was able to get all of the others in. Than trans is flush with the engine. And I got the starter bolts back in too. Now I just have to work on getting everything back together and pray I didn't do anything wrong.
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