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Thread: S50 Tuning Help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    New Brunswick, NJ
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    1995 BMW M3

    S50 Tuning Help

    Hey guys, I've got a '95 M3 I'm bringing back to life. Currently in the process of doing all of the body work and taking care of any rust issues, then doing suspension upgrades afterwards. I'm in search of help with the tuning of the S50 engine. From what I've read on the forum, these engines can handle a lot more and are very de-tuned from the factory. My plan is to do an OEM rebuild on the engine (gaskets, bearings, seals, VANOS rebuild, maybe some machine work to deck the head, etc.), and I would like to tune it out as much as possible with a quality tune. If that means upgrading injectors or other things as well to accompany it, I'm fine with that. Not really looking to do upgraded cams or any serious engine internals. All advice and tips are much appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    New England
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    F90 M5; E36 M3 Turbo
    The S50 is not very detuned from the factory. If you want more than about 15% more power, you will need aftermarket cams. Otherwise, you can try aftermarket headers, aftermarket dual midpipe (the stock one necks down to a single pipe unlike the later 96-99 328i and M3 midpipes), aftermarket rear exhaust, intake, underdrive pulleys, larger injectors and hfm and a tune and probably pick up 15% power. With cams, that could go to 20-30% more power depending on the cam. All this assumes 93 pump gas. There is an old but still relevant article on tuning the 95 M3:

    http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...aders-pulleys/

    One change is that today, OBD2 tuning is generally considered more capable. Back then, not as many knew how to tune OBD2 and were not getting as much power from it.
    Last edited by pbonsalb; 12-09-2019 at 03:34 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    Aberdeen, NC (yes, again)
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    E39M5, E500 4WD
    +1. People who tell you you're going to gain a lot of power with bolt on mods, on a non-turbocharged engine, are generally trying to sell you those mods. Cams, plus headwork, plus all the bolt ons listed above, will likely gain you 20-25%, and cost you far more than the car is worth.

    If you want to make the very best use of your modification budget, modify the driver. Join BMWCCA, go to a few HPDriving schools, and enjoy the mod that lasts a lifetime, and goes with you to every car you drive.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    St. Joseph, Mo.
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    95 m3+, 03 ZHP, Mk4 Tdi
    +2 - completely agreed with both replies.....

    i have gone down the modified s50 path - it's fun, i'm very happy with the results - but, it wasn't cheap.....
    to go through the list of work you are proposing, looking to increase performance, and not do head/cams - i'd say that's misguided at best.

    you were asking about motorsport cams in another thread - so, not really sure what you are trying to do.
    is this build for a classed race series or something?
    '95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    New Brunswick, NJ
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    1995 BMW M3
    Appreciate all of the input and information from you guys. I will be joining BMWCCA when the car is up and running, and getting some driving lessons as well. This was always on my to do list, as well as upgrading the suspension for the handling of the car. That's more of my focus than mechanical work anyways, was just curious about tunes. I tested the compression both hot and cold too a bunch of times. I guess in the end I'd like to rebuild and refresh what needs to be this engine. Heavy collision and body work I can do all day, plus suspension overhauls, but engine work is where I fall a bit short. All tools and resources I have in my shop to do the labor myself, but how do I know if main/rod bearings need replacement, piston rings, valves, and so on. This is where I am stuck...

  6. #6
    MauiM3Mania's Avatar
    MauiM3Mania is offline Observer/Master Skeptic Moderator
    Join Date
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    88M3 99M3 04M3 ITBx16
    You might want to spend some time going over past discussions in the 1992 - 1999M3 (E36) sub-forum.

    04M3 TiAg 69k slick-top 3 pedal
    99M3 Cosmos 61k S50B32 euro 6Spd

    88M3 AW 43k miles Project FS


    WTB: 3.5" Eurosport/Conforti CAI

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    95 m3+, 03 ZHP, Mk4 Tdi
    also, if your location is correct and you are in NJ - you aren't far from many good resources - the CCA chapter there is amazing, as well as being able to contact Turner Motorsport and Bimmerworld (I know they aren't right next door, but, you are a heck of a lot closer than some of the rest of us!)

    Anyway - at this point, plenty of great resources on e36's - s50/s52, etc.

    if you intend to track this car - then, i'd make sure it is safe, no leaks, all items in good working order (trans, diff, brakes, etc.) - cooling system is a big deal on these cars.
    as to the engine - for the most part, if the oil is changed regularly and the cooling system is tended to regularly then they will usually run quite well without much internal work....

    do a compression and leak down if you feel its needed....
    scan for codes with a bmw capable scanner....
    '95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    New Brunswick, NJ
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    1995 BMW M3
    I'm already in contact with Turner and have ordered and received multiple parts. Bilstein PSS9 coilovers, complete front suspension refresh kit, Turner sway bars, rear adjustable arms, StopTech pads and rotors, brake lines, shorty headers, and some other minor items. Aside from Turner I've ordered and received original BMW rear wishbones, all new bearings and hubs, all new suspension bolts, and a new starter. Also new bushings from AKG, some I'm switching to poly. Others I have ordered original BMW for.

    I stumbled upon this car by accident. Was looking for an M3 engine to put in an E30 project of mine and found one in a salvage yard in Pittsburgh. Called the guy and he said it was still in the car and told me it had a clean title. I asked if he would sell me the whole car complete, and one week later it's here at my shop in New Jersey. Car sat for about four years somewhere in PA, and needs A LOT of work and rust repair, which is currently in the process. It's already stripped down to shell with engine still inside.

    I plan on doing the cooling and deleting the fan clutch which people on here have suggested doing. Diff will be rebuilt, as well as axles, and clutch replaced. Currently, I don't see any leaks and I got her started a few weeks ago. She purrs for sure, but there is an issue with the MAF. Idle is rough until I unplug it and then it idles well.
    Last edited by MaliBaja732; 12-10-2019 at 03:48 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    95 m3+, 03 ZHP, Mk4 Tdi
    one thing to keep in mind - the more you mod the car the longer it can take you to really learn as a driver.
    i often recommend/suggest that folks start out as near as they can to stock setup. the stock e36 is a great platform.

    bilstein is a great setup though - certainly hard to argue with that.
    i wouldn't mod the engine at all to start out - as an instructor, last thing i need my students to have is more power....it just gets you into trouble....

    keep in mind - unplugging the MAF does not make the MAF suspect - it just means the car will run in open loop.

    rough idle usually means some type of vacuum leak - i'd smoke test the car.

    in terms of track use - maintenance, maintenance maintenance, no leaks, seat time, and then maybe mods!
    '95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    New Brunswick, NJ
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    1995 BMW M3
    Yeah, the e36 setup is shot from a suspension standpoint. All rusted out.

    I agree with you on the vacuum leak as the suspect. As when I look at all the vacuum lines under the hood, half are definitely cracked.

    Like I said, this car was in really rough shape to begin with, but it's s shame to chop it up so that's why I bought it. If I didn't run a body shop I wouldn't even think twice about buying it. I'm attempting to post pictures, but having no luck with that at the moment haha.

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