Member
yes I was doing that.Originally Posted by Chedley
Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
No, use a 27mm wrench on the cam to hold it.
If your using the GAS cam lock tool set (aluminum) it could bend or break if you try to hold the cams with just them.
Member
Im not using the Gas tools, the set I have is steel and the lock to each other in the middle, and on the back of the cams.
Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
^_I'd still hold the cam with a wrench.
Member
any thoughts on easiest way to check for bent valves?
Member
Can anyone tell me why i need to remove all 4 cam bolts?? I can get the vanos side off no problem, the non vanos side i can't break loose with a 2ft breaker! But if one comes off the other is effectively free right? ?
Last edited by MD540iT; 12-12-2019 at 10:48 PM.
Member
Be sure to counterhold the cam with a 27mm open end as Jim suggested. Two people highly recommended, especially if the exhaust cams are torqued as tight you describe. I needed two people when I did mine. I like the breaker bar vs impact but in this case you may need to use an impact wrench. Also, make sure you have a torque wrench capable of CCW torque. I had to buy a new one because mine were CW only.
Yes, you must loosen all four cams to get the cam timing accurate. How it works is the four cams and the crank are all locked. You apply tension to the chains with all cam gears slightly loose so they can turn. That allows the chain to take up slack (needs to be tight, especially on the bank 2, driver's left, side). Once the chain is tight you gently torque (first pass) in a specific order (refer to Jim's video, GAS, and Besian instructions) with an assistant counterholding the cams with the 27mm open end. Per the optional GAS instructions I spun the crank a few times and redid the entire sequence (loosen cam bolts, tighten chain, torque cam bolts in two stages with helper counterholding). After that turned the engine a few more times and locked it back to TDC to confirm the blocks slipped on and off the cams easily. After all that install the trigger wheels with their jigs while the cams and crank are still locked.
I hope this helps and good luck!
Member
Ok just got a friend to come over and help break the cam bolts loose. reading the Besian instructions, trying to decide if I will rebuild the Vanos.
But first I have to figure out if I bent any valves.
Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
If you remove the cam all the valves will be closed. Blow some air into the sparkplug holes and see if you can hear it leaking out. If you have the intake manifold off you can see all 16 intake valves.
Member
Well i pulled one cam off (just loosened the caps) the intake valves on the drivers side don't look bent.
Don't have anyway to fill the cylinders with air.
Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
The valves bend where the stem meets the valve. You can only see that if you look into the intake ports.
If you did have a bent valve it wouldn't come up as far (1/8" less) as the good valves, compare the height of all the lifters.
Member
Ok! finally got it all together last night, put the fluids in, checked everything, and cranked..... and nothing :-(
Sigh....., what a saga.
I primed the fuel system, the battery was low (I did have it disconnected while working on it.) put it on the charger, after the first crank.
Im not sure where to start. Its cranking just fine.
My first thought, is maybe the gas has gone bad? The last time I put gas in the car was the first of September (85 octane, if that matters, here at 5000ft) had just under a 1/4 tank went i parked the car on sept 6.
I was able to start and move the car into my garage on nov 25.
last night when i swapped the fuel filter, i collected the fuel out if it, the gas didn't smell very potent, I did light a few drops with a lighter.
I've tried to start it 6 times, and only heard maybe 2 "puffs"
any thoughts?
I've been working on this car and my 944(just so I could get it out of the garage) since sept, I'm mentally and physically exhausted.
Last edited by MD540iT; 01-28-2020 at 03:51 AM.
Member
Well, I had my car sitting for about a year before I did my timing job and it started right up. So I doubt it's gas, although you should really use 91 octane fuel, it's really not that much more expensive and it's what the engine needs to run properly.
I would double check all your electronics, make sure you plugged all your sensors and wires back in, especially your crank position sensors that plug into the black boxes that are attached to your fuel rail, make sure your ground straps on your coil packs are properly seated. Make sure your battery is fully charged, one thing I've learned about this car is it does very bad on a poorly charged battery.
EDIT: If you do need to adjust your ground straps on your coil packs, I highly recommend disconnecting the battery first, I hear letting those contact where they shouldn't can have catastrophic results.
Last edited by Deadwake; 01-28-2020 at 04:53 AM.
Member
Ok, I tried cranking today once, and got a couple (2) clear ignitions, almost thought it would go. So im assuming that atleast means I have spark.
Just went to autozone and picked up the fuel pressure tester so we'll see what it says.
Member
just checked the FP getting 50psi, so looks like the pump is good.
I did see this video the other day, see here where he tests old fuel:
https://youtu.be/UvS_D4_lF5U?t=483
Member
So, Fuel : pump injection , and Battery: charge are OK, good to go..?
Could you purge the old fuel, and pour in a gallon of fresh premium octane fuel ??
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