E34 m60 1222 & 1213 code issue

[Charliexx95]

Hi there guys I recently bought a 94 530i touring from a auction it is high mileage (281k) and i have done a lot of repairs on it well there was two codes (1212, 1221) so I replaced the o2 sensors with Bosh ones and codes cleared up for a day and now I'm getting the code 1222, 1213. I've checked every vacuum hose sprayed like crazy carb cleaner all over the engine trying to find a vacuum leak and none. The weird thing is when cold start car runs fine for like 5 mins to 10 mins max till engine gets all warmed up and starts surging for a couple seconds then back to normal idle (600 rpms) but the check engine light remains there. I turn the car off and sometimes when I turn it back on the check engine light is off. Car does throw alot of white smoke from the tail pipe I cant find any vacuum leaks pretty much at a loss right now any help would be appreciated.

Things I have done so far:
Spark plugs
Ignition coils
Valve covers
02 sensors
Intake cover cap
Maf
Icv
Intake boot
Cam sensor

[fo3]

It's a famous error code due to how hard it is to fix. I've never done it because LOL, euro cars don't have check lights, stomp tests or diagnostics(unless you can find the old BMW software - I've given up ever finding it...)
What you think is weird is not. When the engine is cold it's paying less attention to sensors and running richer. When hot it leans out so vac leaks are going to be a bigger problem and the system can measure it's lean. Test everything, brake booster, oil cap. Smoke test properly, don't just spray carb cleaner, because you're trying to pin point a leak, not just trying to see if an old car runs smoother when sprayed everywhere.


On the most recent thread old525i says it was the purge valve due to charcoal cannister problems https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?2415963

But anyway, like I said, famous code, so all I can do is point you to a search for what other people have done https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...archid=6708785


E: It seems I can't share search results that easy, they only show up for me when I'm logged in, so possible causes: vacuum leaks, fuel pressure or cats. So start of with smoke testing rather than pull everything apart and replacing everything, double check things you missed like brake booster and 1 way valve, PCV, vapor system etc. Check the fuel pressure, maybe consider new injectors, make sure cats aren't blocked.

[Sir Montalbon]

You've done a pretty good job so far with your basic maintenance list, but one glaring omission for the M60 is the PCV plate and intake gaskets.

Removing the intake isn't necessarily a hard job, just tedious. My first time took me probably 8hrs, going slow, taking pictures and labeling everything. After doing the job about 10 more times on various M60's, I can probably do it in an hour now, lol.

While you can probably get away with just doing the PCV plate and intake gaskets, since you already have the intake off, it is a good idea to do all of the other little gaskets like the various throttle body and inlet air temp sensor gasket.

Another thing you will probably find when you get the intake off is that the 4 knock sensors are cracked and brittle. I've always replaced them "since I was in there," but they add about $200 to the job at $50 each. I will probably skip them next time just to see what happens. However, if you decide to replace them, this also adds to the work since you need to remove the coolant pipes to get at the driver's side sensors, which necessitates either removing the water pump at the front of the engine, or the coolant crossover manifold at the back of the engine. You will need new gaskets for whichever one you decide to remove, as well as o-rings for the coolant pipes. And if you're still with me and have gotten THAT deep, you might as well replace the valley pan gasket as well.


At a minimum, replace numbers 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 17 from here:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_1498

If you do the knock sensors and remove the coolant manifold at the back of the engine (easiest way to go for me), you will need numbers 2, 5, and 7 from here:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_4845

If you have ASC, parts 2, 4, and 6 from here aren't a bad idea:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=13_1451

Valley pan is here:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_1510

And it never hurts to give your ICV a good cleaning while you've got everything apart.



TL;DR:you can probably get away with just doing the PCV plate and intake gaskets, but there is a lot of little stuff that is nice to do "while you are in there."

[TiagE39]

I struggled with this problem for a while on my 530i; it was ultimately caused by a fuel injector that wasn't connected properly. Engine would run fine until it hit a bump or disturbance, and then stop firing on a cylinder. Like yourself, I did plugs, coils, valve cover gaskets, new ICV boot, and basic maintenance. It would tend to run worse when cold.

The M60 engine has two black "boxes," one on each cylinder bank, that contains the main wiring harness. The backside of this box is where the fuel injectors are connected. The connectors have clips, but they're really only fit in place by the pressure of the box's mounting points. If the box's mounting brackets are warped or loose, it won't "sit" on the fuel injectors correctly and find a way to wiggle itself off. Try pressing down on each box moderately, with the engine running, and see if the idle improves/CEL goes out.

Your 530i should also have a secondary injection system that may be non-functional or allowing vacuum leaks. Seems to be related to rough cold starts. You can disable it by disconnecting the vacuum control unit, Item 1 in this diagram.

[drewusmaximus]

I had the infamous 1222 code and it turned out to be the small hose that connects from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold. There was a crack on the end of the hose that would allow air to suck in. I couldn't see the crack unless I touched the hose and fuel would seep out. I cut the affected piece off, reconnected the hose, disconnect the battery for 10 minutes, drove the car for 60 miles and no more code.

[Sir Montalbon]

Car does throw alot of white smoke from the tail pipe

I missed this when responding the first time, but this is a classic PCV plate symptom.

Also, as a previous poster suggested, you may not have the secondary air pump system since your car is a'94. I believe that was only on '95 M60B30 touring's.

[jehu]

recently had a problem with O2 codes and bad running. Re-sealed the entire intake manifold, new plugs, different MAF, new crank position sensor, it finally turned out to be a fuel delivery problem. The filters were possibly original like 24 years old with black fluid and grit coming from them ... solved the issue for a week or so then it reappeared. The fuel pump died the next day. new pump and haven't had a single fault in weeks.

Hi there guys I recently bought a 94 530i touring from a auction it is high mileage (281k) and i have done a lot of repairs on it well there was two codes (1212, 1221) so I replaced the o2 sensors with Bosh ones and codes cleared up for a day and now I'm getting the code 1222, 1213. I've checked every vacuum hose sprayed like crazy carb cleaner all over the engine trying to find a vacuum leak and none. The weird thing is when cold start car runs fine for like 5 mins to 10 mins max till engine gets all warmed up and starts surging for a couple seconds then back to normal idle (600 rpms) but the check engine light remains there. I turn the car off and sometimes when I turn it back on the check engine light is off. Car does throw alot of white smoke from the tail pipe I cant find any vacuum leaks pretty much at a loss right now any help would be appreciated.

Things I have done so far:
Spark plugs
Ignition coils
Valve covers
02 sensors
Intake cover cap
Maf
Icv
Intake boot
Cam sensor

[shogun]

quote: Success for real
Shogun, thank you so much for those links, particularly the second one. It turns out that I did not in fact have a 1223 code, but rather a 1221 for the other o2 sensor. Chalk that up to poor note taking I suppose. This means my temp sensor was fine, though I still may replace the thermostat if the car continues to run cold on the freeway at night. Your analysis of a rich condition due to a falsely low coolant temp reading made perfect sense to me, and I was about to pop for a new sensor but when going back through my notes I found the error in my error codes, haha.
The real issue turned out to be a severely (horrifically?) deteriorated vacuum hose to the brake booster. I decided to check this after reading through the second link you gave.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30375849

[Charliexx95]

Update!!! So parts arrived yesterday all gasket and grommets and pcv plate. Me and my brother tackled the job under a pine tree (really wanting to get this car up and running) replaced all gaskets pcv new cap. Checked for cracked vacuum lines and there was none. Put everything back together and I'm still getting the error code 1222 and 1213 and the same codes 1221 and 1212 could it be the new sensors are bad ?

[shogun]

did you delete the old existing codes respect. did you disconnect the battery for about 30 minutes that the old codes disappear? Then drive and check for new codes.

[TiagE39]

Check the codes again after a reset like Shogun advised, and then start trying out the other suggestions in this thread. I would also encourage you to do a good shakedown run - the CCV system on the M60 has a bit of a design flaw where a disproportionate amount of oil vapor is directed into cyls 4 and 8, especially if the CCV unit is old or failed. This leads to a lot of carbon buildup in those cylinders.

[Charliexx95]

Yes shogun did the stomp test procedure until I got to the point where there was a flash then stable for a couple seconds on repeat. Hold the throttle for 10 secs and codes got resetted but did not disconnect from battery and didnt drive it for 30 mins I'll do that today.

Thanks tiag I will check that out today thanks for the help guys

[Charliexx95]

Ok guys so disconnected battery for 1hr took it for a drive for half a hour the codes that come up are 1213 1212 and 1221. I noticed today that when I rev the engine at 3k rpms the pcv plate makes a loud noise for a couple of seconds then settles down car still runs like crap after warm up did check all hoses they are all in good shape

[drewusmaximus]

Did you replace the Fuel Pressure regulator? I forgot to add to my previous post, it wasn't just the cracked hose. My fuel pressure regulator was allowing fuel into the intake manifold via the hose. I eliminated the cracked portion of the hose, replaced the FPR and the code 1222 was gone.

[Charliexx95]

Quick update:
Sorry for late update
Haven't had much of a chance to diagnose the car till today. Weather here in northern cali has been nothing but rain anyways the Car has the famous 1222 and 1213 code. Today the sun came out it was a bit chilly out tho so put my gloves on and started removing the intake manifold again to see if gaskets were seating good and all (really wanted to fix these codes to pass smog) I removed the bolts holding the coolant reservoir and set it aside to have better clearance on removing and installing back the intake. Cleaned up the intake and installed everything back together. Reconnected the battery and started the car turned on but was disappointed after 5 minutes later check engine light came on. Did a stomp test same codes. Went to dollar general to buy carb cleaner just to check for leaks again and while in the process of spraying to find leaks I see that the driver side valve cover was missing a bolt right under the 5th ignition coil pack. I sprayed a bit of carb cleaner thru the hole and sure enough engine idle went a bit up. Got a valve cover bolt from a 325is I have and inserted in well that was the issue for the lean/rich code 1222. Tomorrow hopefully i can check the other side for the code 1213 and be able to find it

[Charliexx95]

Last update for right now I just got the both issues fixed they were both related to the valve cover some grommets were not pressed all the way down removed valve cover used jb weld gasket maker and sealant applied it around where gasket sits waited for a day put everything back on with new grommets and did a stomp test reset procedure erased both codes then drove it for half a hour now it throws one code which is 1212 o2 sensor and even tho its 2 months old I'm thinking since it was running rich/lean it might of damaged it and all but got a 12 month warranty just took it today to get it replaced but more importantly it finished for right with both codes it was a pita but really happy to find it and fix it