1994 325i Convertible M50B25TU Engine pulled, replaced, no spark no fuel.

[DILLSN0OB]

Hello All,
First things first, I have spent about 25-30 hours over the past few days searching around for any obvious answers to my issue here with only minor help found.

My E36 was misfiring on cylinders 5 and 6 for the longest time, I tested new coils, new plugs, new injectors and then decided to do the smart thing and actually diagnose it. I was getting spark to the plugs, I was getting fuel to the rail and injectors and my timing was set correctly. I then tested for compression and found that I was getting very low compression in cylinders 5, and 6. I was also getting a good amount of blowby on those same cylinders which led me to conclude that my piston rings were bad.

After this I decided to pull the motor to be able to correctly replace the rings and be able to get a good hone on the cylinder wall. Several weeks later, the motor was out and on an engine stand. My biggest mistake was not labeling all of the connectors underneath my intake manifold when I unplugged them, assuming that I would be able to 1 remember properly (never happens) or 2 match them up based on plug shape (Only got me so far). It has been several weeks later now and I have the rings in and everything put back together properly, motor is back in the car and everything is set up properly, apart from the glaring electrical issues.

As far as I am aware, the primary cause of a no fuel, no spark issue would be a bad or misplugged crankshaft position sensor. I currently have the CKP plugged in to the left-hand of two plugs located under the intake mani, near cylinders 3 and 4. These two are also the only two plugs connected by a bracket and as such have remained in place throughout the engine reinstallation. I have tested the fuel pump relay, grounding 85 and supplying +12v to 86, I hear clicking. I have tested the main DME relay, grounded 85, +12v to 86 and I can hear it clicking. (not a 100% test but I don't think that is the issue atm). I have also cleaned the tip of the CKP to ensure that it is reading properly, yet to test the resistance on that sensor, it was working fine before all of this.

My question here is are there other sensors which would upset the DME enough for it to cut fuel and spark? I also have a misplugged coolant temp sensor, it is reading hot despite the motor not actually starting yet.

I am currently waiting for my son to go down for a nap so I can test the CKP sensor properly but wanted to see what else I should try testing or what I should try swapping while the intake mani is off.

Many thanks in advance, any response is greatly appreciated, I have been working on this for a while so I am likely blind to a simple solution, no response is too stupid lol.

[DILLSN0OB]

Update: tested the CKP sensor and read no continuity from pins 1 and 3, afaik this indicates a bad sensor. Anyone know if brake cleaner can kill these? New sensor is going in today, the bolt for the current one is stripped so that'll only take a few hours.