My '87 325 - Nörm

[128keaton]

Looks like the G260 I have is an 'early' G260, so I'll need to find an 'early' G260 shift setup.

Pic from R3VLimited:
image_113226.jpg
(low res, sorry)
Left is the newer style with the mounting ears for the 'modern' setup, right is the older style utilizing sheet metal.

Pic of the older shifter mechanism:
Screen Shot 2020-01-02 at 5.14.09 PM.png

Another pic courtesy of R3VLimited:
SS.jpg

I am having the darndest time trying to find that carrier or even the whole assembly.

EDIT: huzzah, turns out I had a discontinued P/N. Correct P/n for the sheet metal carrier is 25111220314
EDIT 2: Looks like the early shifting setup was the same on an E21. Can anyone else confirm? There is an entire E21 shifter setup on eBay currently.
EDIT 3: Here is most of the shifting linkage p/n with links to buy for an early E30:

• Arm - $22 - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...m/25111220314/
• Lower Cup Bushing - $3.50 - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-uro-part...111207744~uro/
• Snap Ring - $4.00 - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/23411466112/
• Hex nut M8 - 2x $2.92 - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...m8-25111220483
• Upper Shift Rod Bushing Support - $7.50 - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/41121863345/
• Buffer Stop - $11.50 - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...p/25111204422/
• Plastic Shift Washer - $2.30 -https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/25111220439/
• Shift Lever Circlip - $1.50 - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...p/25117571899/
• Shift Tower Mount - $11.70 - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nt-25111208580
• Lower Shift Rod Bushing Support - NLA - 25111207113
• Shift Tower Bolt - $0.79 - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...lt-25111205659
• Hex Bolt - $3.90 - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...lt-07119913676

[128keaton]

Well, in a turn of events, I might've just secured a good deal on a later, sub-100k G260, along with everything else I needed (AFM, shift assy, pedals, lines) minus the ECU. Just need to figure out when I can go get it.

If I go get those things, then its another $200 for the little things and fluids. Then I just would need to source an ECU and a guibo. Fortunately, I can start swapping engines when I have those larger items taken care of.

Looks like my Feb 1st deadline is suddenly reasonable!

Only real worry is that the airbag pedals won't work in my non-airbag car.

[128keaton]

Well, engine is out:



Ah jeez I feel like I have a ton more work to do


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[superj]

Awesome!

[128keaton]

The old engine/core is on the trailer to new owner, where I'll get everything minus the ECU for the swap. Lordy lordy, I feel like I have miles to go on this.
IMG_2269.jpg


Last picture of the E30 as an automatic:
IMG_2240.jpg

IMG_2248.jpg
Pressure washed the engine bay to help aide in the installation. Pretty cool to see dirty, grimy parts look like they were pulled from the shelf yesterday.

IMG_2250.jpgIMG_2249.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

I tried doing a blood ritual to speed things along, but it didn't really work out. Should I done it speaking German?

[128keaton]

Found a new home for the B27 block. May it live on in other engines.
C217F281-FF58-42A3-A43F-2081A7ADDA69.jpg

There, I picked up the newer transmission, pedals, shift linkage, AFM, ECU, exhaust pieces, valve cover with bracket for intake, intake elbow, a few hoses and clamps, steering wheel, some buttons, glovebox, interior panels, and a windshield wiper fluid reservoir today. Phew.

867BCDC2-B4D6-432E-A65B-5E09CCA31EA6.jpgD462B2E9-0DAB-4185-8E56-8C136EA5358C.jpg


Once back at the shop, I pulled the carpet and cleaned the interior. Wanted to get everything nice and neat before wanting to just drive for a while.
Killed the ants, vacuumed the corpses, and ran some light degreaser over the inside to get rid of anything else.

IMG_2285.jpg49099D2F-D111-4708-91C8-AE51DCC3C9B8.jpeg

No rust!

[128keaton]

I took the carpet outside to pressure wash. It was filthy. While the seats are out, I plan to clean and grease the seat mechanisms. Everything else going into the car was also pressure washed.
IMG_2288.jpg


I also pulled the peeling leather off the three-spoke wheel and mounted it in the car. A new leather stitch kit has been ordered.

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I've also ordered the shift boot, shift knob, master cylinder feed line, and the exhaust hanger grommets.

Getting closer!

[superj]

looking great!

you are going to really like driving that car once you are done.

[128keaton]

looking great!

you are going to really like driving that car once you are done.

A friend purchased an 1987 325i vert with a B25 and a 5 speed. Really enjoyed it, aside from the shift knob falling off all the time.

Which is why the interior was pulled and cleaned. Will not want to mess with it when I get the engine and transmission back in. I’m honestly super happy the exhaust is figured out. No cat, just straight pipe between the downtube and the muffler. Shouldn’t be too loud, especially compared to the old one.

Just did a search online but couldn’t find a wheel leather wrap kit for the e30 wheel. Bummer.



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[superj]

I always just measured the wheel and bought one of those wheel skin kits from the auto parts place. not made for the e30 but always made the steering wheel feel better.

that's funny on the shift knob. they are usually on so well that people punch themselves in the nose trying to pull them off

[128keaton]

I always just measured the wheel and bought one of those wheel skin kits from the auto parts place. not made for the e30 but always made the steering wheel feel better.

that's funny on the shift knob. they are usually on so well that people punch themselves in the nose trying to pull them off

Good idea. I’ll see if I can find one that works. Might be able to dig out the old skin from the garbage for a template.

I’ll be sure to tell him that, maybe the knob or shaft is worn.


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[128keaton]

Saving this for reference: http://www.strictlyeta.net/technical/328i_6.html

[128keaton]

I thought I'd make a list here of everything new the car is getting

* New clutch (and pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing)
* New master cylinder (with feed line and grommets)
* New slave cylinder (with feed line)
* New intake manifold gaskets
* New exhaust manifold gaskets
* New headgasket (and bolts)
* New auxiliary tube seals
* New guibo
* New exhaust hangers
* New exhaust seals
* New belts
* New air filter
* New shift knob
* New shift boot
* New wiper fluid pump

Additionally, here is going to be everything that was swapped from other cars:
* 325i exhaust setup
* M20B23 stroker
* G260 out of a 1990 325i
* AFM out of a 1990 325i
* Under-dash console cover piece
* Under-dash, above glovebox cover piece
* ECU (not sure, but its a 153 ECU)
* Clutch pedal out of an early 325
* Driveshaft out of a 1990 325i
* Shift linkage out of a 1990 325i
* 3-spoke steering wheel out of a 1990 325i

There is probably at least a few more things I am not remembering, but goodness gracious.


Pretty sure there are a few more things I am missing, but its a ton of parts

[superj]

153 ecu is fine. its still a good ecu and you can get a chip for it if you wish.

[128keaton]

153 ecu is fine. its still a good ecu and you can get a chip for it if you wish.

Yeah! It plugs in. I knew I needed either a 153 or a 173. The AFM turned out to be out an an E34. Plugs in, but not sure how to mount in the car.




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[superj]

oh, its a 027 ecu? or from a 2.5 out of an e34?

usually you have to slot the holes in the filter box to fit the larger afm

[128keaton]

oh, its a 027 ecu? or from a 2.5 out of an e34?

usually you have to slot the holes in the filter box to fit the larger afm

The ECU is from a 325. The AFM is out of an E34. Plugs in fine.


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[128keaton]

The majority of the new parts are coming in today, so that means the engine is going to be put together! Just need to pull head to swap gaskets. Head was redone very recently but was in the process of being swapped to another block but PO decided to fix his current head. I wouldn’t be touching it if the head bolts weren’t already loosened.



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[superj]

on the afm, if the holes don't line up where it bolts to the filter box, just slot, or redrill the holes. that's what we always had to do. if its one of those round maf looking deals, I don't know how to get those to work with the e30 system if you not running a different engine management system like megasquirt

[128keaton]

on the afm, if the holes don't line up where it bolts to the filter box, just slot, or redrill the holes. that's what we always had to do. if its one of those round maf looking deals, I don't know how to get those to work with the e30 system if you not running a different engine management system like megasquirt

I’m gonna have to get creative then. You’re correct in stating the bolt holes do not line up, but the actual size of the hole where the AFM fits is much different. No studs on the end of the AFM either. Will probably just find a cone filter that fits and run it.

I might’ve been mistaken earlier, but I do know it’s off of an M30. The AFM plugs in fine. I’ve seen some brackets online that allow for mounting.




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[superj]

some people do that type of hot air intake system in the picture but on the end where the filter screws in is a plate that unscrews. on your old afm is a plate that also unscrews from inside the filter box. (behind the air horn, if its still on it. if not, the screws are still there) take those four phillips screws out and the new afm should be fairly close to the screw holes lining up. if not, slot the holes in the box and the internal filter box plate. then the afm will mount.

in rare instances, I had to make new holes but it was only once or twice in all the e30s I have had and did afm swaps to the larger m30 (027) afm

[128keaton]

some people do that type of hot air intake system in the picture but on the end where the filter screws in is a plate that unscrews. on your old afm is a plate that also unscrews from inside the filter box. (behind the air horn, if its still on it. if not, the screws are still there) take those four phillips screws out and the new afm should be fairly close to the screw holes lining up. if not, slot the holes in the box and the internal filter box plate. then the afm will mount.

in rare instances, I had to make new holes but it was only once or twice in all the e30s I have had and did afm swaps to the larger m30 (027) afm

(Left M30 AFM, Middle M20B27 AFM, Right M20B27 airbox)
That might be the case on the b25 air box but I don’t think I can make this easily work. Either that or I’m dense and can’t picture your instructions easily.



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[superj]

take that round large opening off the afm and where those 4 screws are is where you need to mount to the filter box.

I have one of those also, its an 027. once you put it on, the car will have issues idling and running so you will have to pop the smaller black cover off that has the orange rtv and adjust the tension on the swing arm spring. its held on with a metal clip that clicks into the teeth around the tensioner gear. you just hold the metal clip out a little with your finger nail and twist the gear to loosen it a bit. but, first mark where you started by putting a little white paint on the original spot. normally I have to loosen mine 6 to 10 teeth. you will just have to rev it a little with your finger on the tb and make sure it start well. than once it starts and revs easily, take it for a drive and you might have to adjust it a click or two more to make it perfect.

I have used that larger 027 afm on almost every 2.5 I have ever owned. it works well with a chip and ford fuel injectors from a 302 or 4.6 v8

[128keaton]

take that round large opening off the afm and where those 4 screws are is where you need to mount to the filter box.

I have one of those also, its an 027. once you put it on, the car will have issues idling and running so you will have to pop the smaller black cover off that has the orange rtv and adjust the tension on the swing arm spring. its held on with a metal clip that clicks into the teeth around the tensioner gear. you just hold the metal clip out a little with your finger nail and twist the gear to loosen it a bit. but, first mark where you started by putting a little white paint on the original spot. normally I have to loosen mine 6 to 10 teeth. you will just have to rev it a little with your finger on the tb and make sure it start well. than once it starts and revs easily, take it for a drive and you might have to adjust it a click or two more to make it perfect.

I have used that larger 027 afm on almost every 2.5 I have ever owned. it works well with a chip and ford fuel injectors from a 302 or 4.6 v8

Perfect. I’ll see if I can make the stock airbox work. The internals of the AFM appear to have been opened already, so hopefully it has already been adjusted. If not, I’ll adjust according to your instructions.

Also, if you have any pics of the wiring on the firewall, please upload them! I think this was a vert harness.


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[128keaton]

Hopefully timing is right. I spun the crank by hand a few times when the belt was back on. Turned easily.



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