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Thread: My '87 325 - Nörm

  1. #151
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Memphis, TN
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    1989 BMW 325iC - M52
    Quote Originally Posted by superj View Post
    you are about to have a blast. I loved autocrossing my e30s
    It was fun! Line was slow, people kept going off. Got two runs in.




    Really needs the 3.73 LSD, haha. Engine runs rich below 3k, maybe the AFM compensates for that a bit, but it did good on the track aside from waiting in line with the idle going up and down. Worried it’s the b*tch tube. It’s not leaking oil at the bottom, maybe the top is not sealed well.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 BMW 325iC
    - M52B28
    - Z3 Rack
    - 15" Euroweaves

    1987 BMW 325i Sedan
    1987 BMW 325 - RIP


    2003 LX470

  2. #152
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Memphis, TN
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    My Cars
    1989 BMW 325iC - M52
    Track event went well. Car performed admirably, badly needs a better diff. 2.97 isn’t cutting it. Idle still fluctuates, can’t find any vacuum leak. Next paycheck might go towards a BMW tech smoking it.



    I made a little ram air cone for fun since the high beam was broken. I think it was made for a Dodge Challenger, but it fit with a bit of modification.

    Not hooked directly up to the air box yet.



    My friends decided to make some cosmetic mods that kinda spiraled.








    All in all, a good time.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 BMW 325iC
    - M52B28
    - Z3 Rack
    - 15" Euroweaves

    1987 BMW 325i Sedan
    1987 BMW 325 - RIP


    2003 LX470

  3. #153
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    corpus christi, texas
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    No e30s, again :(
    Thats the magic diff ratio. We are trying to find two of them that are local (within 5 hours) for my kid's cars. One has the 4.10 amd the other has the 2.93.

    One od my son's friends has the same cosmetic mods
    No e30s again.

  4. #154
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Memphis, TN
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    1989 BMW 325iC - M52
    Quote Originally Posted by superj View Post
    Thats the magic diff ratio. We are trying to find two of them that are local (within 5 hours) for my kid's cars. One has the 4.10 amd the other has the 2.93.

    One od my son's friends has the same cosmetic mods
    I have someone within 2 hours of me that has one! He just won’t pull and ship. I’ve got a shipping label for him and everything, but he is more concerned about my engine not idling. Seems convinced that my B23 setup isn’t good, despite the fact that it runs great, pulls hard, etc. I have a video of it running in the original car from a year ago!! Like come on!! Just need the diff!!!

    I need to replace the CSB, the driveshaft I had was for an ‘i’ car so the bracket isn’t quite wide enough. I made it work, but it’s not ideal. Car has a long way to go overall. Just pissed I can’t get it to idle. I have a stock AFM and a different ICV coming tomorrow. Might have to shelve the BMW for two weeks just to finish moving and get money again.

    Lol at the mods, makes others smile so why not!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 BMW 325iC
    - M52B28
    - Z3 Rack
    - 15" Euroweaves

    1987 BMW 325i Sedan
    1987 BMW 325 - RIP


    2003 LX470

  5. #155
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    Oct 2019
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    Memphis, TN
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    1989 BMW 325iC - M52
    Correction, the local diff is a 4.10. SuperJ, is the only downside highway mileage? If so, I don’t care. This car will spend the majority of its time between 1st gear and 3rd gear.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 BMW 325iC
    - M52B28
    - Z3 Rack
    - 15" Euroweaves

    1987 BMW 325i Sedan
    1987 BMW 325 - RIP


    2003 LX470

  6. #156
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    corpus christi, texas
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    No e30s, again :(
    you will not have a 1st gear with a 4.10. my son says you might as well start in second with a 4.10 on the 2.5 motor. same way on the 2.7 though, since its got a lower redline.

    I drive his and I see how short first is but the car is very quick, light to light, with the 4.10
    No e30s again.

  7. #157
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Memphis, TN
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    1989 BMW 325iC - M52
    Quote Originally Posted by superj View Post
    you will not have a 1st gear with a 4.10. my son says you might as well start in second with a 4.10 on the 2.5 motor. same way on the 2.7 though, since its got a lower redline.

    I drive his and I see how short first is but the car is very quick, light to light, with the 4.10
    Works for me. This one has a bit more top end than a B25 so it'll work out with 1st being so short.

    She took forever to start up this morning for some reason. Might need to lean it out a bit more via the AFM, but I'm probably gonna just ditch the 027 for now and roll with the stock B25 setup I have on the way.
    I had to drive it around to charge the battery up, so queue photos

    IMG_2834 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

    IMG_2835 2 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr


    I also finally got my times back from the track event:
    Screen Shot 2020-02-04 at 12.11.32 AM by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

    Not bad, suck it FRS.
    1989 BMW 325iC
    - M52B28
    - Z3 Rack
    - 15" Euroweaves

    1987 BMW 325i Sedan
    1987 BMW 325 - RIP


    2003 LX470

  8. #158
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    corpus christi, texas
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    No e30s, again :(
    if it took a while to start, like more then 3 or 4 seconds, the check valve in the fuel line or pump is bad, or you have an injector leaking down and the pump is having to pressurize the system.

    next time you go to start, turn the key to run a few times. just listen to the tank pump shut off 4 times and then try cranking her. if it starts right up, you know its losing pressure
    No e30s again.

  9. #159
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Memphis, TN
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    1989 BMW 325iC - M52
    Quote Originally Posted by superj View Post
    if it took a while to start, like more then 3 or 4 seconds, the check valve in the fuel line or pump is bad, or you have an injector leaking down and the pump is having to pressurize the system.

    next time you go to start, turn the key to run a few times. just listen to the tank pump shut off 4 times and then try cranking her. if it starts right up, you know its losing pressure
    Well, I forget to let it sit for a minute or two, if I rev it in 30 seconds of starting it wants to die. After a little bit, it’s fine. I smell gas from the exhaust, so I think it’s just really rich. I’ll try the pressure “test” when I start it again, but it fired right up this morning and was ready to go within a minute.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 BMW 325iC
    - M52B28
    - Z3 Rack
    - 15" Euroweaves

    1987 BMW 325i Sedan
    1987 BMW 325 - RIP


    2003 LX470

  10. #160
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
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    My Cars
    1989 BMW 325iC - M52


    Fedex man dropped this off today. Stock AFM, ICV, and boot off of a running B25 that’s getting an LS.





    Swapped it in pretty fast, I disconnected the battery and put the positive and negative cables together to reset the ECU, as initially it wouldn’t even try to idle. After that, it idled great!


    https://youtu.be/2fQB8OKNkWk

    Doesn’t feel like it pulls as well compared to the 027 AFM, but might be negligible with the 4.10 diff



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 BMW 325iC
    - M52B28
    - Z3 Rack
    - 15" Euroweaves

    1987 BMW 325i Sedan
    1987 BMW 325 - RIP


    2003 LX470

  11. #161
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    corpus christi, texas
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    No e30s, again :(
    cool. and you are still running stock injectors? either way, its still good
    No e30s again.

  12. #162
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    1989 BMW 325iC - M52
    Quote Originally Posted by superj View Post
    cool. and you are still running stock injectors? either way, its still good
    As far as I know, yes. I believe I still have a small vac leak somewhere, idle fluctuates a tad, maybe 10 rpm, but not a huge problem. Will probably find it, I’m thinking it’s canister purge line, or it doesn’t like the two holes I drilled in the top of the air box for the 027 AFM. Those holes are pre-flap, so still metered, but I’ve seen weirder. I need to tighten the steering shaft a bit. Lol. Now the interior is driving me crazy. I adjusted the door latches with my handy torx set and a BFH, doesn’t rattle over bumps anymore.

    If anyone has any pictures or part numbers, I need to figure out how the kick panel and above glovebox panel attach. I was given both the kick panel and the glovebox panel, just no screws lol.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 BMW 325iC
    - M52B28
    - Z3 Rack
    - 15" Euroweaves

    1987 BMW 325i Sedan
    1987 BMW 325 - RIP


    2003 LX470

  13. #163
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    No e30s, again :(
    some f the screws are those big plastic trees for the above panel and the ones along the front, above the latch, are small black metal screws.

    the kick panel is just screws

    - - - Updated - - -

    I am at work so no pics
    No e30s again.

  14. #164
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Memphis, TN
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    1989 BMW 325iC - M52
    Quote Originally Posted by superj View Post
    some f the screws are those big plastic trees for the above panel and the ones along the front, above the latch, are small black metal screws.

    the kick panel is just screws

    - - - Updated - - -

    I am at work so no pics
    Thanks! I'll probably buy a handful of both.

    I am starting to try and figure out what I should do about seats. All my foam, aside from my driver's side bolster, is in good shape, but the mechanisms for tilting and adjusting are sticky and likely worn out. The question is, is the cost of finding some decent recovering material, and foam for the bolster, along with whatever I break disassembling the seats, really much lower than a set of racing buckets or even seats from an e30 in better shape.
    1989 BMW 325iC
    - M52B28
    - Z3 Rack
    - 15" Euroweaves

    1987 BMW 325i Sedan
    1987 BMW 325 - RIP


    2003 LX470

  15. #165
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    No e30s, again :(
    We redid my son's sport seats (replaced frame and some foam) and none of the clips broke. I used needle nose to unbend the hog nose clips and bend them back amd it went really smoothly
    No e30s again.

  16. #166
    Join Date
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    1989 BMW 325iC - M52
    Quote Originally Posted by superj View Post
    We redid my son's sport seats (replaced frame and some foam) and none of the clips broke. I used needle nose to unbend the hog nose clips and bend them back amd it went really smoothly
    Perfect. That sounds reasonable. What frame was replaced? Was your foam sourced from BMW? I might take it to a local shop to see what new foam bolsters and cloth would cost.

    I received my center support bearing and I plan to install tomorrow or later tonight. Any tricks or tips there? Replacing since a) don't know how worn the current one is b) the current one doesn't fit (e -> i difference)
    1989 BMW 325iC
    - M52B28
    - Z3 Rack
    - 15" Euroweaves

    1987 BMW 325i Sedan
    1987 BMW 325 - RIP


    2003 LX470

  17. #167
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    corpus christi, texas
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    No e30s, again :(
    We bought a driver sport back frame and reused our foam but cut small pieces to fill where it was worn out at the thigh bolster edges. Just regular foam we had laying around and stuffed it in the areas missing.

    For the csb, mark the two halves before you split it so it doesn't go back together out of balance. Other than that, i tapped it off with a long drift punch and doing it back and forth so it slid off straight. Then i tapped it by using a long piece of pvc pipe that barely fit and hit the inside race. Once that stopped pushing, i tapped the rest of the way with the long drift punch.

    Works great on every vehicle i have had with a csb
    No e30s again.

  18. #168
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Hartford, CT
    Posts
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    My Cars
    1987 BMW 325is
    I'm doing my drive shaft right now too and while its out i plan on replacing the centering sleeve at the very front of the drive shaft.
    '87 325is
    Build Thread Here

  19. #169
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    No e30s, again :(
    the guibo? the rubber one with 6 bolt holes?

    its good to do it. that normally is your main wear point on the 5 speeds
    No e30s again.

  20. #170
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    1989 BMW 325iC - M52
    Quote Originally Posted by superj View Post
    the guibo? the rubber one with 6 bolt holes?

    its good to do it. that normally is your main wear point on the 5 speeds
    Yeah and it’s like $40 for an OEM one. Cheap and good peace of mind!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 BMW 325iC
    - M52B28
    - Z3 Rack
    - 15" Euroweaves

    1987 BMW 325i Sedan
    1987 BMW 325 - RIP


    2003 LX470

  21. #171
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    Oct 2019
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    Memphis, TN
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    1989 BMW 325iC - M52
    Wow its weird seeing my thread all the way down at the bottom.
    I finally got the CSB replaced. Ended up being a can of worms. Found out that the u joint was toast as well (caps cracked, rusted). Then subsequently found out that those joints are non-servicable. F that.
    I found that FCP euro offers the part. Awesome, ordered two along with a new blower motor resister. Got them in, pressed the old joint out, got the new joint in. Threw the shaft back in, got the heat-shields on, took it for a test drive and lost a cap. Just pressing them in is not enough to hold them in. So I just stole a cap off the other new u joint that I hadn't used and I had welded two washers on top of each cap (washers welded together, washers tacked onto the yoke). I figure that it wouldn't mess up balance too badly if the volume was the same and the welds were in the same place. Felt pretty good at 60 mph. The tires are balanced poorly, so I had a vibration before with the old DS that was fine. I'll eventually just order a rebuilt shaft and call it done if there is a vibration after tire balance. New u joints were ~$12/piece. I also ordered some fog lights. Cheap after market, but I can reseal if they leak. Window weld costs nothing.


    Fog lights by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

    please ignore my front clip.

    I think I might tinker with using the 027 AFM again. It runs so rich! Thanks to the head, that is. I'm hoping that maybe the ICV was bad?
    Last edited by 128keaton; 02-16-2020 at 11:07 PM.
    1989 BMW 325iC
    - M52B28
    - Z3 Rack
    - 15" Euroweaves

    1987 BMW 325i Sedan
    1987 BMW 325 - RIP


    2003 LX470

  22. #172
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    166
    My Cars
    1989 BMW 325iC - M52
    I just ordered a used airbox to keep with the stock AFM, as I need to chop up the current airbox a bit more to make the 027 AFM fit properly. Also ordered a new intake boot so I don't have to cap off the top line with a bolt.
    1989 BMW 325iC
    - M52B28
    - Z3 Rack
    - 15" Euroweaves

    1987 BMW 325i Sedan
    1987 BMW 325 - RIP


    2003 LX470

  23. #173
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Hartford, CT
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    My Cars
    1987 BMW 325is
    The centering sleeve i was talking about is in the very tip of the driveshaft, see my build thread for what im talking about. Between the giubo and that sleeve they work together to dampen vibration. Its a bear to get out but cut it with a dremel and pry and then just tap the new one in


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    '87 325is
    Build Thread Here

  24. #174
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    1989 BMW 325iC - M52
    Quote Originally Posted by ZeroDarkE30 View Post
    The centering sleeve i was talking about is in the very tip of the driveshaft, see my build thread for what im talking about. Between the giubo and that sleeve they work together to dampen vibration. Its a bear to get out but cut it with a dremel and pry and then just tap the new one in


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Ah gotcha. Thankfully mine was okay. Was difficult to get on and off the output shaft, but we’re back together now!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 BMW 325iC
    - M52B28
    - Z3 Rack
    - 15" Euroweaves

    1987 BMW 325i Sedan
    1987 BMW 325 - RIP


    2003 LX470

  25. #175
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Memphis, TN
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    My Cars
    1989 BMW 325iC - M52
    I finally have retrieved my rear subframe to rebuild, along with my 4.10 open diff.
    Pulled it out this after noon from a parts '91 vert.
    IMG_3259 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr
    Took about an hour, give or take, by myself. The hex bolts on the sides were rusted, had to hammer a socket on them. Anyone know of a similar replacement bolt? I read on FCPEuro to just use a regular bolt, but I like the hex head for appearances. BMW has marked the part as NLA, no one seems to have it. Surprised there isn't a common one available, they remind me of much larger set screws used on 3d printers, cnc machines, etc.

    The owner of the partsvertible also cut me a sweet deal on some MonoSS coilovers, front and rear.
    AE4840E3-63E9-4CCE-8FF6-8E450E631B25_1_105_c by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

    The subframe was about and hour and a half away from me, so I took basic tools and got it done. Only a small floor jack, a battery impact, a socket set, a breakover bar, a hammer, and a hex key set.
    IMG_3257 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr
    Definitely not the most elegant way of doing it, but I have the subframe home, so I'll let the results speak for themselves.

    Earlier this week, I attempted to replace all the burnt out bulbs in the cluster, but I ended with less working than I started. WTH! I had 12V 1.3W bulbs, none of them worked in the cluster. Just pulling and replacing a working bulb from its socket would make it not work. I have no idea whats going on. I just said screw it and ordered new bulbs already in the bases. Ever since then, there seems to be a phantom drain on the battery. 0.1% drain over 45 minutes. I don't believe it was doing this before I messed around with the cluster. I just need a new cluster, honestly.
    1989 BMW 325iC
    - M52B28
    - Z3 Rack
    - 15" Euroweaves

    1987 BMW 325i Sedan
    1987 BMW 325 - RIP


    2003 LX470

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