And so it's happening to me too... (SoCal Area)

[RayBallen]

Like many others, especially the M42/M44, my water pump is stuck. When trying to release it using the provided M6 holes, the bottom start to crack.

Fuu......

"Lousy minor setback! This world sucks!" - Homer Simpson

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Anyone here in SoCal area that can lend a tool for a price? Long Beach/Cerritos Area

Thanks

[Vintage42]

A thread:
https://zroadster.org/threads/m44-co...come-out.2935/
Another thread:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...zed-Water-Pump
And one post in a thread:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post26487401

[thenjnick]

I dont see where its cracking. Let the screws out and go at it with a pair of channel locks and some penetrant. I dont know of any special tool that can help you here. Mine was a bitch to get off but in the end it was the pliers that did it after using the screws to crack the gasket that turned to cement.


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[RayBallen]

A thread:
https://zroadster.org/threads/m44-co...come-out.2935/
Another thread:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...zed-Water-Pump
And one post in a thread:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post26487401

Thanks. Read the second one earlier. I'm scared to ruin the pump with the block lol

Most of the other links I found are mostly brute force, breaking it into pieces or some alternative method. I'm opting to go with a puller route.

I found a tool from a user in bimmerfest with the same type of engine. His dad is a machinist and made a puller tool for a while. They're no longer selling it though. But lucky for me he lives locally and responded. He's going to look for an available puller tool tonight in his garage to rent to me.

https://laurenarce.wixsite.com/bmwtools

I dont see where its cracking. Let the screws out and go at it with a pair of channel locks and some penetrant. I dont know of any special tool that can help you here. Mine was a bitch to get off but in the end it was the pliers that did it after using the screws to crack the gasket that turned to cement.


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You'll see the hairline crack in the pic. I heard it as well so I knew there was a crack.

Found a special tool: https://laurenarce.wixsite.com/bmwtools

-----------------------------------
UPDATE: Also looking into a slide hammer

[thenjnick]

Wish I had known about that one lol. Nice find


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[RayBallen]

Wish I had known about that one lol. Nice find


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Kinda scared now to break the timing housing with the tool. I'm going to ask the dude how to do it properly, where to put the support.

At the same time, I'm looking into a slide hammer.

[Tigershark48]

How many miles on the pump?

[thenjnick]

I think the case should be fine, you really just have to overcome the old crusty oring. It doesn’t sit that far into the head. Anything’s possible though.


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[RayBallen]

How many miles on the pump?

I have no idea. The good news is that it's a GEBA pump which means it replaced the OEM BMW at some point. My best guess it's been there for 80k-100k. Car is now at 163k. The thermostat mating surface is in good shape which makes me think it was replaced the same time as the water pump. I'm guessing it's the fat o-ring stopping the water pump plus some deposits.

The previous owner used either Zerex G-05 or Peak Global Life time (Because coolant color was amber) and caused yellowish deposits on the coolant pipes when I replaced them. This then convinced me further to use BMW Coolant.

I think the case should be fine, you really just have to overcome the old crusty oring. It doesn’t sit that far into the head. Anything’s possible though.


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The strongest support is closest to the housing where the timing housing bolts are located according to Gmushial. And it makes a lot of sense for there's a lot of matter there for support.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...Pump-conundrum


M44-timingcase.gif

[BimmerBreaker]

This below method at least works for I6s. Ive never wrenched on a 4.

Take one of the bolts for the water pump and screw it into the 5th hole on the water pump (the one not used originally to attach it). There should NOT be a receiving hole for it on the engine. Keep screwing it in, it will push against the engine and release the water pump

- - - Updated - - -

That middle hole in your first pic, maybe try to thread the bolt in there?

[RayBallen]

This below method at least works for I6s. Ive never wrenched on a 4.

Take one of the bolts for the water pump and screw it into the 5th hole on the water pump (the one not used originally to attach it). There should NOT be a receiving hole for it on the engine. Keep screwing it in, it will push against the engine and release the water pump

- - - Updated - - -

That middle hole in your first pic, maybe try to thread the bolt in there?

The middle hole is what I used to thread the M6 to push the pump out but it started cracking. You'll see the hairline crack.

[thenjnick]

Thinking back, for whats its worth i remember i had to get some long M6 bolts from home depot because there wasn’t enough thread on the actual pump bolts to pull it. You using the originals? Did they bottom out before you heard the cracking?


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[RayBallen]

I got long M6's from autozone

[RayBallen]

UPDATE: Wuhoo...

After borrowing the tool from Redondo Beach. It went out easily. Soaked it in WD-40 as well. Now my nightmares of breaking the timing cover or doing a rocky balboa weight lifting is over. Time to clean up.

Any recommendations of a lubricant for easy install and removal later on? I have white lithium grease.

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The previous owner definitely didn't keep up with the coolant maintenance. No lifetime coolant is going to convince me now.

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[thenjnick]

Nice work. It would be nice to have a machine shop at my disposal..i just rub a little oil over the o ring, lithium grease works great too.

What pump are you putting in? If it comes with a gasket I would just stick it in dry, no need for any additional gasket maker.

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[RayBallen]

Nice work. It would be nice to have a machine shop at my disposal..i just rub a little oil over the o ring, lithium grease works great too.

What pump are you putting in? If it comes with a gasket I would just stick it in dry, no need for any additional gasket maker.

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Thanks. I'm putting in HEPU with some lithium grease. The O-ring will definitely expand once the engine runs. Probably will replace it after 60k to ensure easy removal later on.