Member
Can someone point me at a DIY on BMW style 42 restauration video or written/photo document.
Thanks
Z3 2001 3.0L 5-speeds,Topaz Blue/Sport+Premium package/Stong-Strut/Bilstein shocks/Rogue Engineering RSM/Ireland Engineering rear sub-frame bushing/CDV delete/Conforti CAI/Jim Conforti Shark/DRL module/European Wiper Module/Pioneer AVIC-N4 GPS-Receiver+XM Radio+iPod/iPhone interface+Bluetooth+12CD Charger/ASA-AR1 18" wheels+Michelin PSS/Bi-Xenon upgrade. 3.73 diff.
Latest mod : UCC short shifter ... love it.
X3 2006 3.0L Automatic, Silver Gray, all original ... so far ...
Member
there are threads online about this specific wheel. you need the right tools, a blow torch, and prey that you dont strip the fancy magnesium bolt that is thread locked into the wheel. I have a set from a e39 that needs to be completed as well.
U of D.I.Y.
It's pretty easy. Get a triple square bit set, shouldn't set you back more than $20. Then use a map torch on barrel by the bolt hole. Get a lot of heat in there, but keep the torch a ways from the material, to keep from scorching it. Then hit that shit with an impact, and repeat like 20 times. As for getting the clearcoat off, good luck. I used aircraft stripper. I hope for your sake there is something better, cause that sucked. I touched up a little bit of rash that was on there, then polished the barrels. I left the centers as they were.
Member
My bolts (titanium, not magnesium) came right out without heat.
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Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Member
when you separate the two pieces, is there a seal between the barrel and the centers? What are the torque specs for the bolts? I might consider doing mine too.
‘98 Z3 2.8 roadster, Montrealblau/tan 5sp, M50 manifold, AFE intake, SuperSprint catback, Bilsteins, BAVAuto sport springs, Style 42 BBS
Member
No seal, so it gets pretty nasty back there. Water and salt intrusion is probaby what kills the clearcoat, so some go back with silicone or the like.
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Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Sim Simma
Moderator
Pretty sure those bolts are titanium, not magnesiumOriginally Posted by ZoO
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Mine too...
Also, dont use an impact to remove then like mentioned earlier. Break the torque initially by hand. Blast em off once loose if you want to but dont try to remove em with an impact
Member
Exactly what I did...broke by hand with a pretty stout ratchet and then buzzed them off (19 of them per wheel) with power.
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Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
U of D.I.Y.
Why? You say not to, and give zero reasoning for your advice.
Sim Simma
Moderator
There is a high potential for damaging the bolts, the bit, or the threads. I follow as a general rule that anything with threadlock on it should be broken by hand first
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U of D.I.Y.
Hence the heat. You are actually less likely to damage with an impact, although damage in either scenario is extremely unlikely.
Member
sorry about saying mag, it was late, i was confused.
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