95 E36 M3 S50 HPDE Car Build Journal

[bimmerboy318]

Nice

Correct total is $819... not sure where I got the other number from! LOL

[aeronaut]

One thing I never quite got straight in my head, was how accusump works "in the paddock".
So you have a 3 qt accusump for example, which if I understand correctly means about 1.5 qts oil reserve.
When idling and low rpm, oil pressure is under say, 20psi. So, does accusump push 1.5qts extra oil into the pan whenever I'm idling or driving around in the paddock?

I know all this works out ok, but how?

[bimmerboy318]

This also bothered me. If you get the electronic pressure valve, anytime psi gets below the set point it pushes oil out. Didn’t get that because it’s another failure point and I would still have to de-activate while still on track.

With the manual valve, you have to mount it within driver reach. The electronic valve is the same but you simply turn a switch on/off.

So before you start the motor, you open the valve, it pushes oil to the motor at start up. And your pan will theoretically have up to 1.5-2qts of extra oil if you don’t get oil pressure up. But it’s ok as your just putting around the paddock. Once oil pressure is up, the accusump fills. My understanding is that the accusump will basically be filled during the warm up lap (or half lap). Once full, it will work like a balloon and push oil whenever the oil galley pressure is lower than the accusump pressure, and fill when the motor has more pressure than the accusump. On your cool down lap you have to close the valve manual or electronically so you have pressure for the next startup. If you forget no big deal but you’ll have extra oil in the sump until you fill it back to the accusump.

My engine builder said it basically becomes just part of tracking. Whenever I start up I always watch the oil pressure light anyways to turn off. On my cool down lap I used to turn the HVAC to hot and blower to high (both now deleted) to help cool down faster.

[Turtles]

Here's a little vide of how the Moroso version works (same thing different brand & name).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyaG...ature=emb_logo

[bimmerboy318]

Interesting how he keeps talking about replacing the volume of oil... but based on the ideal gas law pv/t = pv/t, wouldn’t increasing the volume basically also increase the pressure? Anyways, I’m sold primarily because m6 engine builder uses one and he routinely laps me at least once if not twice per session. But he’s driving a 800hp stock car at hpde’s!

[Turtles]

Great thread. I'm just in the process of refreshing an E46 M3 race car. It came with an moroso accumulator, just had to replace the O rings. Hope the new motor stays strong for you this season.

[bimmerboy318]

24lbs injectors. Went with the original EV1 style. Funny that these all have the Ford logo on them.

83A4A7F4-3B25-4FE5-8566-BCD9855754F6 by D S, on Flickr

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Question for you guys... ignition coils. I still have the original 1995 Bosch coils. Motor runs fine. Any reason to change them?

[olemiss540]

Not in my opinion as long as the boots are in visibly good condition and you keep a spare (or two) in your parts bucket.

[GrifM3]

Check the service manual. I believe you can verify if resistance is within range with an ohm meter. In addition, visually inspect the body of the coils for any cracks, especially within the "potting epoxy." If you see anything, even hairline cracks, I would replace. I have replaced a couple on my 97 because of this.

[aeronaut]

This also bothered me. If you get the electronic pressure valve, anytime psi gets below the set point it pushes oil out. Didn’t get that because it’s another failure point and I would still have to de-activate while still on track.

With the manual valve, you have to mount it within driver reach. The electronic valve is the same but you simply turn a switch on/off.

So before you start the motor, you open the valve, it pushes oil to the motor at start up. And your pan will theoretically have up to 1.5-2qts of extra oil if you don’t get oil pressure up. But it’s ok as your just putting around the paddock. Once oil pressure is up, the accusump fills. My understanding is that the accusump will basically be filled during the warm up lap (or half lap). Once full, it will work like a balloon and push oil whenever the oil galley pressure is lower than the accusump pressure, and fill when the motor has more pressure than the accusump. On your cool down lap you have to close the valve manual or electronically so you have pressure for the next startup. If you forget no big deal but you’ll have extra oil in the sump until you fill it back to the accusump.

My engine builder said it basically becomes just part of tracking. Whenever I start up I always watch the oil pressure light anyways to turn off. On my cool down lap I used to turn the HVAC to hot and blower to high (both now deleted) to help cool down faster.

So, I guess worst case, you leave the manual valve open (for example) and at low pressure you have 1.5 qts of extra oil in the pan, and as long as THAT'S no problem, then no problem.
And that's no problem (1.5 qt overfill)?

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Not in my opinion as long as the boots are in visibly good condition and you keep a spare (or two) in your parts bucket.

Yep, that's what I do, I have 1 spare. All mine are original, except for 1.

[bimmerboy318]

Ok, all 6 coils had resistance readings of 0.4 ohm and the spec is 0.4-0.8 ohm. Epoxy looks intact and they look good. Gapped NGK single prong plugs to 0.030”.

Poured in almost 8qts of conventional 5w30 with half a bottle of Redline break in additive. Pulled the fuel pump fuse and spun the motor. After several 5-10sec bursts... my new auto meter oil pres gauge slowly came up and the starter was able to provide 23-24psi of oil pressure. I started to panic as it took longer than I envisioned. Watched a couple YouTube videos and it does take a while... and I was probably hyper sensitive. Interestingly, the oil pressure dummy light turned off before the auto meter gauge started moving.

Self bleeding coolant reservoir is awesome! No more making a mess on the floor. Just fill it up and wait, top it off, and double check.

Car is basically ready to fire for the first time. I just to install the exhaust, spin the motor one last time, install spark plugs and coils, and fire.

How long should I let it run? Should I worry about the stock tune with larger MAF and injectors? How about the 11.5:1 CR? I’m thinking I’m going to let it get up to operating temp at 1500-2000rpm or maybe 15min? Blip the throttle a few times. Then shut it down, switch ECUs to my new Megasquirt Pro. Check oil and coolant. Then start it again and just let run for 5min to make sure it runs.... then to the dyno.

Should I change the oil again? Or do that after the dyno? Or am I suppose to drive this on a street for a few hundred miles. First rebuilt motor.

E3D92298-1F24-4445-8ED4-679B236ECC01 by D S, on Flickr

981BEDA2-BD70-42CF-B07E-9DDAEF560AAB by D S, on Flickr

[bimmerboy318]

First start video below. Also posting photo to remind what mileage the odometer had.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=raWj...ature=youtu.be

1E177BEF-EFF4-4103-BE27-6CD4958F8259 by D S, on Flickr

[bimmerboy318]

Time to swap in the MS3Pro ECU. Wish I had looked into this sooner. Apparently the ECU has a MAP port and doesn’t even use the MAF signal. So all that cutting and fitting for the 3.5 silicon boot was for not. Per the instructions... MS says to delete the MAF completely or just u plug it.

http://www.megasquirtpnp.com/docs/ms....php?isModel=1

I want to delete and replace with a tube. I think I want to go back to using the original BMW boot because it fits better. So then I need a plastic pipe that goes from 3.5 to 3”. Or I could just narrow down the AFE to 3” right away with their adapter and run a 3” pipe.

I guess the question is whether necking down to 3” closer to the TB is beneficial.

[bimmerboy318]

I knew I would have to rework the Accusump! I didn't like how low it sat so I raised it 3-1/2". Most of it is now protected by the bumper cover. Hopefully it doesn't impact air flow to the radiator too bad. A little trimming to the bumper bar to make it fit right.

Also some photos bottom side... this is the cleanest this will EVER be so figured I should document.

00CA3D1D-5D85-4561-AAC6-90183C6B0C96 by D S, on Flickr

999ACC13-8D81-4CF2-A62A-EB6E2864B233 by D S, on Flickr

4C414FC0-4751-48BF-99D7-C680BB0683D2 by D S, on Flickr

F5C80AB4-8DF9-41EC-967F-7307D5C47668 by D S, on Flickr

9CC9F761-6F3D-4156-B0DA-E36890247EB7 by D S, on Flickr

[aeronaut]

No A/C condenser correct? I think you'll be fine.

Your next project is ..... 3" single exhaust !

[bimmerboy318]

No AC. I was looking at the Bimmerworld race exhaust. But if I do exhaust, might as well do Raceland rep headers with a custom exhaust. Just need to find a reasonable shop to work with.

[aeronaut]

No AC. I was looking at the Bimmerworld race exhaust. But if I do exhaust, might as well do Raceland rep headers with a custom exhaust. Just need to find a reasonable shop to work with.

Yep!!!
I did the BW y-pipe to 3" everything back route. (But I did the exhaust work myself). Wish I'd just done the Raceland rep headers rather than the y-pipe.

[GG///M3]

No AC. I was looking at the Bimmerworld race exhaust. But if I do exhaust, might as well do Raceland rep headers with a custom exhaust. Just need to find a reasonable shop to work with.

I might have my full exhaust setup for sale

[skrimshaw90]

We are building the same year and color M3 right now, though that was pretty wild!
20210214_184136.jpg

[aeronaut]

Hmmm...those anthrocite wheels look pretty good on white. Wonder how they'd look on silver car? Hmmmm.

[bimmerboy318]

Had the dyno tune done today. I put in Supertech 5w30 with Redline break in additive. High idle for three 15-min heat cycles. Then changed oil again with Supertech 5w30 and Redline break in additive.

Dyno shop installed the spare set of plugs I gave them because it had been running way too rich.

239.92hp and 224.26ft-lbs. I think this sounds about right for the mods on the motor and car.

What I'm most impressed with is the power from 5000-7000. Or maybe I shouldn't be... I don't really know.

Just driving it in first gear there seems to be a different level of "nastiness". That high RPM pull is now present ALL the time. Not sure if that's the compression or the tune or both.

Tuner said that he has timing at 25 and tried a bit higher and still had no knock but there were no gains so he left it at 25.

54AA2B6A-5436-48B1-920C-E5E31A283395 by D S, on Flickr

[jakermac]

Tuner said that he has timing at 25 and tried a bit higher and still had no knock but there were no gains so he left it at 25.

25 seems low to me. But maybe I'm thinking my Honda days. Numbers in the low 30s seem more like what I'd expect. And when tuning, you usually go until you start seeing a drop in torque and then back it up. You can actually get a very noticeable drop in torque on the dyno before you start seeing knock.

[95maxrider]

Awesome thread, just read the whole thing. Shame about your engine crapping out like that. I'm jealous of your euro overflow tank, bleeding coolant on these cars is just awful. And your new engine looks like it's going to be great, I'm about to go read that thread now. Did you ever get any readings to see how the hood vents affected various temperatures? Ive considered doing them on my car, but I mostly just do rallycross and DD the car. How did you determine how far back to mount them?

[bimmerboy318]

Awesome thread, just read the whole thing. Shame about your engine crapping out like that. I'm jealous of your euro overflow tank, bleeding coolant on these cars is just awful. And your new engine looks like it's going to be great, I'm about to go read that thread now. Did you ever get any readings to see how the hood vents affected various temperatures? Ive considered doing them on my car, but I mostly just do rallycross and DD the car. How did you determine how far back to mount them?

Thanks! The euro tank is life changing. No mess, no bleeding, no finding a hill, no worries! Fill, idle, top off... that’s it!

The vent is suppose to be immediately after the radiator so it ended up being. 14” from the edge or whatever the photos show. As far as improvement, I didn’t have a real temp gauge before install but everyone has commented it should make a 10-15deg difference.

[bimmerboy318]

Here’s a really shaky video of my new PB by 3 seconds! I’m sure the new motor helped but Nankang AR-1s definitely helped! Ran them at 31psi hot for max grip!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rAWf_5lCEhE

Anyways, problem! Not sure if it was because I shut off the car on pit lane after a hot hot lap to check pressures... or something worse.

My new euro coolant tank spewed coolant out of the cap. When I opened hood, about an inch of coolant was low in the tank. I could hear air still leaking out of the cap.

Autometer gauge showed 190F and the dummy gauge was till dead center.

Bad cap? Blown head gasket?

This was my second track day. First track day had several 2:27 with no coolant loss.

Got that sinking feeling. I’m really hoping it was because I shut the car down to check tire pressures without any sort of cool down. Cap is 2 year old aftermarket Rein 2.0bar.

Full pace turn 17, pit in at turn 18, 1/2 mile until full stop and shutdown. Then I went back for another 3 laps before pulling into garage and a little puff of steam was coming out of hood vent.

Will a leak down show a bad head gasket? If I see bubbles in coolant tank that’s it right?