Changing Rear Suspension @ 239k... Real PITA!!!

[siny528i]

Doing my Rear Suspension @ 239k. Bearings, Hubs, Control Arms, End Links, Guide Links, etc. Maybe Axles too. Unlike other DIYs showing it's not that easy for me...

I had to use Impact Wrench at the highest setting to remove E14 Bearing Bolts. And I broke loose only 2 front ones. I also had to cut the bolt to remove the Guide Link. Now I need to drop Lower Control Arm. I removed the Nut and Eccentric Washer but stuck with the Bolt in Lower Control Arm. Thinking about cutting it too and getting used Lower Control Arm.

Its real PITA!

[Lantz]

I got 220k and need to do the same thing... sigh.


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[cnn]

HEAT is your friend.
Get a $10 propane torch (Plumbers torch at hardware store).
Heat exactly where the threads make contact.

For example, for rear hub, do NOT look inside, go to the outside, you will see where the Torx bolts sticking out of the hub: this is exactly where you should heat it up for a good 30 sec.
Then PB Blaster a bit and let it seep inside the thread.
Removal will be very easy.


Heat will melt Loctite (if used at factory), and it also disrupts the rusty bond in the threads.

[scottbayarea]

I got 220k and need to do the same thing... sigh.


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Me too. Full front and rear. Done it before on a 1997 but not with nearly 200,000 miles on it.

[siny528i]

HEAT is your friend. Get a $10 propane torch (Plumbers torch at hardware store). Heat exactly where the threads make contact. For example, for rear hub, do NOT look inside, go to the outside, you will see where the Torx bolts sticking out of the hub: this is exactly where you should heat it up for a good 30 sec. Then PB Blaster a bit and let it seep inside the thread. Removal will be very easy. Heat will melt Loctite (if used at factory), and it also disrupts the rusty bond in the threads.

Thanks cnn, Its the Bolt in Lower Control Arm. I removed the Nut and Eccentric Washer. Thread is outside. There is no thread inside. I tried to pound it out with 3 lbs hammer. No luck! I gotta remove it to drop Lower Control Arm. I am worry about rubber bushing if using heat. Worse to worse, I am ready to buy used Lower Control Arm with NEW bolts, nuts and washers...

[ViolinARC]

Best ride refresh you'll experience IMHO. I didn't go that crazy but did refresh most of the rear suspension on the '00 once I realized it was the reason I was only getting 8-10k out of the inner half of the rear tires!

For the '00, I took it to THREE different shops and they all said the shocks were "fine". One shop had me change the camber to non-sport and that didn't help so I reluctantly changed out the shocks, mounts and control arms back there. 25k miles later, it was time for new rear tires...

Needless to say, as soon as I picked up the '03, I replaced all front AND rear suspension components because I KNEW what would happen if I didn't. Ran on those tires for almost 30k before needing to replace (err, swap) with the fresh rubber (replaced a couple weeks before the transmission failed ) from the '00 parts car. The bonus is that the 17" Style 32s look just as good as the 18" Style 65s on the '03 (both staggered)...

[cnn]

If you use heat carefully, only at the nut/bolt interface for about 30 sec, just enough to melt LocTite,
you will be fine.

Just watch the any rubber/bushing nearby.
Once you have done enough heating, you will have a good idea what to do (and what not to do).

[Twistytee]

Did you try adjusting the angle of the control arm by jacking it up closer to ride height? Sometimes you just need the angle of the control arm holes to align so you can knock the bolt through with a screw driver.

[siny528i]

Did you try adjusting the angle of the control arm by jacking it up closer to ride height? Sometimes you just need the angle of the control arm holes to align so you can knock the bolt through with a screw driver.

Honestly, I did not. But there was nothing attached to it on another side. It started to turn more or less freely but then it stuck...

[Sleepyhead97]

I had same issue on that eccentric bolt. I ended up cutting it and getting a used arm and bolt from junk yard.

[siny528i]

I had same issue on that eccentric bolt. I ended up cutting it and getting a used arm and bolt from junk yard.

Thanks Sleepyhead97,

That's exactly what I did. I got both Rear Control Arms (in relatively good condition) from ebay for $90 shipped and bolts with nuts from FCPEuro.com...

Anyway, this is my current situation:


with ALL parts removed:


Most of them are Original and as you may see they are Long Gone...

I am worry about Axle.
Can it be Bad? And causing those sounds I was talking before?

No visible damage to the Boots. Nothing leaking out either.
I just don't want to put everything together and find out that it did NOT solve my sound issue.

Thank you in advance,
siny528i

[riverdadd]

I too have this on my list as the 01 540 i maintain for the wife is showing inner tire wear. Are you also replacing the ball joint in the hub/shock mount? Mine has 140,000 miles and i'm sure i will need to go as deep as you. good luck!!

luv your jack stand....... i see your rocker has a little rot... gotta do what u gotta do!!

[siny528i]

I too have this on my list as the 01 540 i maintain for the wife is showing inner tire wear. Are you also replacing the ball joint in the hub/shock mount? Mine has 140,000 miles and i'm sure i will need to go as deep as you. good luck!!

luv your jack stand....... i see your rocker has a little rot... gotta do what u gotta do!!

Thanks!

Yeah, I gotta do the Ball Joint as well.
Thank you for reminding me as I totally forgot...

[Aussie528iT]

Wurth have a product called ROSTOFF. It's basically a WD40 type product with a refrigerant added.
When sprayed on the troublesome part it cools it down and as the metal shrinks slightly and comes back to room temp it sucks WD40 into the joint.
Might help.
Excessive rear camber wear is most likely due to wear in the wheel carrier ball joint, especially if the inner tyre edge is quite rounded off.
A small amount of wear (just a few thou) in the joint translates into a large increase in negative camber at the tyre.
Lever geometry at work here.

[siny528i]

Wurth have a product called ROSTOFF. It's basically a WD40 type product with a refrigerant added. When sprayed on the troublesome part it cools it down and as the metal shrinks slightly and comes back to room temp it sucks WD40 into the joint. Might help. Excessive rear camber wear is most likely due to wear in the wheel carrier ball joint, especially if the inner tyre edge is quite rounded off. A small amount of wear (just a few thou) in the joint translates into a large increase in negative camber at the tyre. Lever geometry at work here.

Thanks Aussie528iT, I will look into that stuff.

- - - Updated - - -

What about Axles, guys? Can it be Bad? Or you think its Ok, since Boots are not leaking?

[siny528i]

Heya guys,
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Тoday the weather allowed me to continue working on the Right Rear side.
Previously I was able to remove the Ball Joint:


and already installed it:


With the kit I got on ebay ($30) and some help of Spring Compressor parts (thanks cnn for advice) it was a breeze.

But now I have another problem. After I put everything together...




... I realized that I stuck with misaligned Lower Control Arm:


What am I doing wrong?
Whats the most right sequence to avoid this?

Thanks a lot,
siny528i

[Twistytee]

Refit the rear shock last after you attach the control arms to the subframe. Might have to jack up the wheel hub a bit to align the arms, then attach the lower shock mount.

[siny528i]

Refit the rear shock last after you attach the control arms to the subframe. Might have to jack up the wheel hub a bit to align the arms, then attach the lower shock mount.

Awesome,Twistytee!
That was like a breeze. I knew the answer is gotta be somewhere close. Thanks again!

[siny528i]

Heya guys,

So, while I was there I also renewed the Parking Brake hardware:


After I aligned splines on Hub and Axle...


...I found out that it's almost impossible to hammer Hub in because of the Axle's movement in and out. So I used two 11 1/4" pieces of 1"x1" to hold it against subframe bracket in place:


And, Voila!


There was a play (about 1-2 mm) in and out between Hub and Bearing, but it's gone once I tightened the Collar Nut to 100 ft-lb.

There was also a play (from side to side; about 1-2mm) between Hub and Bearing as I was tightening the Collar Nut.

Thats why I stopped at 100 ft-lb for now...

[siny528i]

Heya guys,

The job is done.
I did torque the Collar Nut at 221 ft-lb (300 Nm). Put everything together. No more noise from the rear.

Stay Healthy,
siny528i