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Thread: Glacier Blue 6-speed build thread

  1. #26
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    Grovetown, GA
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    752
    My Cars
    1991 850i 6-speed
    But first, out with the old. I used a good old harbor freight ball joint separator, which is the recommended tool to use on the thread by Dragon850:
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...nk-removal-DIY

    I only noticed a couple of torn boots, but judging by the surface rust, some of these old components had been on the car for a few years.
    IMG_3278.jpg

    And in with a new X-brace from a later E31. This installation required some new hardware to mount, and some drilling of the existing heat shields, to take the new pieces, as shown here.
    This will allow me to fit a CSi front sway bar. In time, when I swap the rear differential, I'll swap the rear cradle, and install the rear CSi sway bar.

    IMG_3365.jpg

    As the two fuel feed lines had been previously cut or damaged, I elected to replace them. I was surprised that I could still order these pre-bent and delivered to my door.

    IMG_3264.jpg

    I finished off with new wheel arch liners and mounting hardware. The inner pieces, covering the fuel and brake lines, had been missing entirely

    IMG_3380.JPEG

    Mostly ready to be put back onto the ground. Still to be installed here are brakes, sway bar, and end links.
    I am not sure if I will notice much benefit from the braided brake lines, but the price was right, and so I changed them out. My flared wrenches came in handy again here.[

    IMG_3381.jpg

  2. #27
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    Grovetown, GA
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    752
    My Cars
    1991 850i 6-speed
    Fitting the 7-series brake master cylinder reservoir meant fitting a longer clutch hose.
    In theory, this meant removing the two bolts securing the clutch master cylinder to the car, and the single bolt securing it to the clutch pedal, removing the old line and plastic nipple, and installing the new line/nipple.

    Below is the old vs the new.
    IMG_3391.jpg

    In practice, it took me hours. I foolishly had not removed the driver's seat from the car, and so had very limited room to move.
    The old clutch line came out easily enough, but inserting the new line was very difficult with the master still in the car.
    Eventually I got leverage on it, and it popped in.
    Below, it is stubbornly not yet seated..

    IMG_3390.JPEG

    All finished up. In this picture can see the new pedal rubber, bushings around the gas pedal rod, nuts securing the brake booster, and clutch master cylinder.

    IMG_3382.jpg

    This maintenance was preventative. I figured since I would be replacing these fuel hoses anyway, I should replace the fuel tank vent valve.
    I replaced the NLA part using BMSman's technique (post #22):
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ssure-problems

    IMG_3372.jpg

    The hardest part was bending the aluminum sheet without the use of a vice.
    Only the fuel hoses leading to the fuel pumps are still to replace now.

    IMG_3377.jpg

  3. #28
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    Grovetown, GA
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    752
    My Cars
    1991 850i 6-speed
    New ignition wire installation, along with distributor caps. This is where I made some mistakes, installing parts out of order, and scratching my head as to which was the appropriate nut or bolt from those that I had set aside a few months previously.

    IMG_3404.jpg

    There are a handful of clamps that had rotting or missing rubber, that I replaced.

    IMG_3413.jpg

    This was a deliberate mistake, that led to me becoming very annoyed with myself for a few minutes, before removing it, cleaning up, and reinstalling the intakes in the correct order!

    IMG_3416.jpg

    VCV valves awaiting installation. Also in the shot is an older Dell laptop with an RS232 port that I'll use for an diagnosis as I get this motor back up and running.
    There's a first time for everything, so hopefully the software installation isn't too much of a bear.

    IMG_3419.jpg

    I had cleaned and wrapped the fuel rails in heat reflective tape. I later removed the tape from the fuel return line, as it did not want to adhere properly.
    The shorter rubber hose leading up to the passenger side fuel rail at the front seems to be slightly kinked on installation. I am not sure if anyone else has had a similar problem, so before I fire the car up for the first time I will revisit it.

    IMG_3265.jpg

  4. #29
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    Grovetown, GA
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    752
    My Cars
    1991 850i 6-speed
    Bar the acoustic cover, and attaching the rear fuel lines, the top end rebuild is complete for now, until I reinstall the cooling system. The throttles were rebuilt by Dragon850 - they were previously in pretty bad shape.

    IMG_3423.jpg

    There had been a previous JB weld repair at the mounting point for the driver's side airbox. It left a section open to the engine bay, so I repaired the section again, using wire mesh to close the hole, and provide reinforcement.

    IMG_3266.jpg

    I would have liked to replace the airbox entirely, but winced when I saw the replacement cost. The rest of the plastic duct work seems to be in good order, just that all the rubber connecting pieces have either rotted, or hardened.
    When I removed the AC drier, I was able to see that the both intake boots, part # 13711729992 had almost completely disintegrated
    Here is the repair from the airbox side.

    IMG_3267.jpg

    For replacement springs, I chose M-sports. I am hoping that the drop is minimal, as I have a slightly sloping drive. If these prove to be problematic, I will sell them, and revert to stock.
    Also shown is the CSi front sway bar, which should now fit, as the later X-brace has been installed.

    IMG_3412.jpg

    AC drier prior to removal. This was done so that I can flush each individual line, before installing the replacement parts. I have to have ice cold air to get through Georgia summers.

    IMG_3399.jpg
    Last edited by petejk; 11-29-2019 at 05:05 PM.

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Oro Valley, AZ - USA
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    see my signature
    Awesome write up! Have you figured out how to remove the rear springs yet? I just bought the M-Sport rear springs yesterday, and I have a pair of H&R fronts that my friend graciously donated to me, so I'm getting ready to start that job. Also replacing the two control arms on the front of the car at the same time, along with the dry-rotted front bump stops and damaged black plastic sleeves, much like you've done. I also ordered the rear shock mount reinforcement plates from Gerry in the UK, and a set of M8x30 10.9 bolts and class 10 M8 lock nuts to go with them. Not doing the full overhaul like you are, but my car only has 76K on it, and a lot of the rubbers are still in good shape. Even the lower control arms that I'm replacing are decent... Just changing them because I have them and they have to come off for the H&R springs anyway.

    Anyway, let me know if you got your rear springs out and any other notes!
    2006 R53 JCW (British Racing Green) - 1994 E31 840Ci 6spd (AVUS Blue)
    2021 F56 JCW (Rebel Green) - 2000 E38 740i Sport (Titanium Silver)
    2017 F26 X4 M40i (Carbon Black) - 2007 E91 328iT (Deep Green)
    2012 E82 135i M Sport (Marrakesh Brown) - 2015 E84 X1 (Cashmere Silver)
    2005 E53 X5 3.0i Sport (Kalahari Beige) - 2000 E36/7 M Roadster (Oxford Green)
    2000 E38 740i Sport (Oxford Green) - 1999 E36 M3 Coupe (Fern Green)
    1995 E31 840Ci Canadian (Oxford Green) - 2000 E36/8 M Coupe (Oxford Green)
    2004 E46 330Ci (Oxford Green) - 2001 E36/8 Z3 3.0i Coupe (Oxford Green)
    2002 E39 525i Sport (Oxford Green) - 2002 E36/7 M Roadster (Oxford Green)
    2001 E53 X5 3.0i Sport (Oxford Green) - 2007 E63 M6 (Silver Grey)
    1995 E31 840Ci (Oxford Green) - 2006 E86 M Coupe (Sepang Bronze)
    2001 E39 530i Sport (Aspen Silver) - 2009 E92 M3 (Space Grey)
    2001 E38 740i Sport (Sahara Beige) - 2008 E92 M3 (Melbourne Red)
    2000 E38 740i Sport Canadian (Sahara Beige) - 1997 E31 850Ci (Jet Black)

  6. #31
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    Grovetown, GA
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    752
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    1991 850i 6-speed
    I think I will ask my local shop to replace the rear springs when I have the car taken for it's post suspension refresh alignment. Unless another forum member has an idea how to compress the stock rear springs enough to remove them, as I've drawn a blank.
    I didn't upgrade the bolts on the shock mount, or the lock nuts either. You're making me second guess my decision now, as there are only a couple of threads over the top of the nuts with the Phoenix plates installed.

    Next up for me over the weekend is going to be either removing the dash to replace the heater core and evaporator, or flushing the AC pipes, then reinstalling the radiator and condenser.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    UAE
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    My Cars
    Merc R129, E31, Jag XKR
    What ever you do, don't switch out the blue interior to black. I was in the same boat as you





    According to the 8coupe "This particular upholstery color was installed in 1.79% of worldwide 8 Series models. Over half the 8er's that came with this upholstery were combined with either ALPINWEISS 2 (code 218) or MAURITIUSBLAU METALLIC (code 287)."

    Whatever is damaged trim wise, get it and then paint it to match your blue interior, that's what I did.

    Trust me, in a sea of black/grey/beige interiors, the blue stands out
    "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car, Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you."

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Harrisburg, PA, USA
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    357
    My Cars
    x5, 640i, 850Ci, 850CSi
    Quote Originally Posted by olinjohnston View Post
    Leatherique does not last... and while the "value" aspect may not be there, it would be a shame to literally paint over one of the rarest interior colors with the most common one.
    Donít know about that. I used leatherique to change some cardinal red pieces to light silver gray about 10 years ago, and its still holding up fine. However, I found that Colour Lock does an even better job than leatherique. Itís easier to use and provides a better finish. The color match is perfect as well.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Mike Barrett
    94 850CSi, Hellrot over silbergrau dunkel/silbergrau hell
    96 850Ci, Oxfordgrun over silbergrau hell

  9. #34
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    Grovetown, GA
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    1991 850i 6-speed
    Interior color change is starting to bother me now. On one hand I wanted to modernize the look of the interior, as it will be where I will be spending a lot of time if all goes well with the restoration. I have purchased almost all of the parts, paint, and dye that I need to get the job done. This includes items such as the felt trimmed door rubber pieces that can not easily be color changed.

    On the other hand, several people have rightly pointed out that the interior color is rare, and that it should be preserved. While I could change course, I would be left with the headache of navigating the right way, and which companies to approach to obtain color matched paint and dye in blue. I would also be left out of pocket, for pieces that I have already purchased, and may not easily be able to resell, for a project that is already proving to be more expensive than I initially anticipated.

    Either way, Iím going to pull the dash today - as to what color it will be when I reinstall it, Iím still not sure.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    SF Bay Area
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    3,582
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    Supercharged 850ci
    Great work! Thank you for sharing, I am enjoying this !
    Consider upgrading your fuel lines at the drivers side of the engine, I have a post somewhere here on the forum.
    Here you go: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...l+line+upgrade
    Last edited by dragon850; 11-30-2019 at 04:44 PM.

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Orange County, CA
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    13,455
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    840Ci-6, 725tdS
    Quote Originally Posted by mbarrett635 View Post
    Don’t know about that. I used leatherique to change some cardinal red pieces to light silver gray about 10 years ago, and its still holding up fine.
    Are they pieces that you sit on?

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Harrisburg, PA, USA
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    357
    My Cars
    x5, 640i, 850Ci, 850CSi
    Quote Originally Posted by olinjohnston View Post
    Are they pieces that you sit on?
    They are the lower door panels, the trim on the lower dash and the trim below the center console. Some of them may see some wear from from legs rubbing, but certainly not like on a seat panel, thatís true.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Mike Barrett
    94 850CSi, Hellrot over silbergrau dunkel/silbergrau hell
    96 850Ci, Oxfordgrun over silbergrau hell

  13. #38
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    Grovetown, GA
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    752
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    1991 850i 6-speed
    [QUOTE=dragon850;30372703]Great work! Thank you for sharing, I am enjoying this !
    Consider upgrading your fuel lines at the drivers side of the engine, I have a post somewhere here on the forum.
    Here you go: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...l+line+upgrade[/QUOTE

    I have new hose in place from the hard lines that enter the engine bay from the driver's side wheel arch, but what I'm currently missing are the intermediate hard lines that are shown in MGRGROUP's photo below.
    I can't for the life of me find the part number for these (don't seem to be able to find them in the RealOEM diagram) so in the mean time I have made longer fuel injection hose runs up to the fuel rails.
    Definitely using the style of clamp that you have pictured, and not the worm gear kind, but I hadn't thought of using flexible wrap.

    I'm not looking forward to making access holes to replace the hose leading to the fuel pump, but it's necessary in order to finish the job.


    8008480609_285bf87aa8_o.jpg

  14. #39
    Join Date
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    Fort Worth, TX
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    3,855
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    E36M3/E46M3/E39M5/E63M6
    Excellent work.
    E36/8 2000 M Coupe Cosmos Black/Black
    Shark, Conforti CAI, B&B Exhaust, H&R, Bilstein, AKG Subframe/Diff, UUC TME Red/Caps, Swapped Front Hats, Ice>Link.
    ================================================== =======================

  15. #40
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    Grovetown, GA
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    1991 850i 6-speed
    Work continued today, with the removal of the interior. This was prompted by the need to both remove the dash, and to redo the amplifier and speaker wiring that was in the car.

    First up was removal of the front seats. I didn't find riches in change underneath, just a couple of dimes, and some hard candy.
    The bolts were a lot easier to access than I had anticipated, once I used the lever on the side to push them all the way forward.
    Lifting them out was a matter of tilting in the correct direction, and making sure not to hit anything vital on the way out.
    The driver's seat seems to move in all directions with minimal groaning, but the passenger side doesn't want to raise or lower - I'll need to read the cable fix guide a couple of times and get that resolved.

    IMG_3425.jpg

    Sitting in the back seat for the first time was novel, but then thoughts moved to how to remove it.
    I started off by pulling the first aid compartment out, which revealed the bright blue speaker wire which I would later find routed throughout the car.
    Taking the rear door cards out was an exercise in trusting that by pulling up and out, nothing would break. Luckily I didn't lose a single clip on either side, but I did find that the seats were not bolted down at the top on either side.

    IMG_3424.jpg

    C pillar covers, with usual broken tabs, and rear parcel shelf removal was next up.
    These will all be re-done, along with the headliner, although I can see it will be tough, as these have already been recovered once, and the glue is pretty tough.

    IMG_3457.jpg

    A battery, strapped to the wiring loom, behind the driver's side rear panel, was a mystery. It was tapped into power, grounded, and fused, and connected to a metal box with an FCC ID printed on the underside.
    I removed it, as it clearly wasn't a factory fitted piece of kit, but it would be interesting to have some idea of what it is.

    IMG_3448.jpg
    In the picture, and old, JB Welded together radar detector control hangs to the left of the broken ashtray cover.
    I will be making one of the popular cup-holder modifications in place of the ash tray, and relocating the HVAC controls adjacent to the parking brake.

    Middle of the afternoon, I'm not yet at the point of no return. I could remove the center console, tidy up some wiring and still chicken out of dash removal, and I have to admit it was tempting..

    IMG_3426.JPEG

    ..But what would be the fun in that.

  16. #41
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    Grovetown, GA
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    1991 850i 6-speed
    Labeling plugs as I was disassembling the interior was time consuming, but worthwhile, with the exception of the wiring up to the stereo plug, which is a horror show. I will take great satisfaction in running new speaker wire, and generally tidying this picture up.
    Removing the steering wheel was an easy job, using another of Tim's excellent guides, which is a job I needed to do anyway, as I will be swapping to a different wheel.

    IMG_3449.JPEG

    There were two things that had bugged me about the dash. One was a loose headlight switch, and foglight buttons, which don't seem to clip in properly at the top, and the other was the broken center vent.
    I am still no closer to a solution to the buttons, other than finding an acceptable way of wedging them in place that doesn't involve glue.

    I also found that the plug behind the instrument dimmer wheel was missing, and wires were instead directly attached to the terminals. I will probably have to buy a switch with pigtail attached at some point, in order to make this right.

    IMG_3450.JPEG

    Dash removed, to expose rotting foam at top center, which will be refreshed prior to reinstallation.
    Also before the dash is refitted, will be the heater core and evaporator replacement, which I can hopefully accomplish tomorrow.

    IMG_3454.jpg

    Dash out. It took about 6 hours, but some of that time was spent removing seats etc.
    I can definitely see the job taking half that time if I was to do it again.

    IMG_3455.jpg

    I had resigned myself to buying a center vent new, and had attempted to buy it from Schmiedmann. The regretfully informed me that it was no longer available new, but that they were able to source a pristine used vent for half the price of new.
    All clips are in place, no cracks, looks new out of the box. I think I struck it lucky!

    The old vent did not have a single intact clip, and as seen, was missing a large chunk of one side.

    IMG_3456.jpg

    More tomorrow, unless something comes up.

  17. #42
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    66
    My Cars
    1985 M635CSI, 1992 850i
    If you use the SEM Colorcoat system, a very useful tip I learned was this: make sure the parts you are working on are really warm. I would wait until a hot summer day to clean and prep them, then I would leave them in the sun for an hour before spraying color.

    When I was dying parts, I bought 1 can of every shade of red that SEM made, and tested each one until I found the correct shade. You might have to do the same. Another helpful tip: once you settle on the correct shade, use the other cans of blue to lay down the first coat of color on darker parts. It will be covered over by the final coat in the correct color anyway, and you save a bunch of money by using up the off-color shades. Try it out, it works.

    I agree that you would be wise to keep the original blue interior color. It’s part of what makes your car unique and desirable. You had mentioned wanting a more modern look, but if that’s the case, why restore an E31? The car you have is beautiful just the way they made it. Embrace that and keep it as close to original as possible.

  18. #43
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    Grovetown, GA
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    1991 850i 6-speed
    As expected, removing the evaporator was challenging. In the end I cut the old one to remove it, and dislodge the double pipe from the firewall. I was able to free up the pipes in the engine bay enough to pull them clear, and was (optimistically) expecting that installation of the new evaporator would be less challenging than removal.

    Evaporator is now in place, with double pipe connected, but it has not quite swung around enough to mate with the pipes on the engine bay side. There's about 10mm it still needs to move (it's jammed up against the plastic) - I'll give it another shot one evening this week.

    Every evaporator related post that I've seen has stated that there is little in the way of clearance here, but I just don't know what degree of force I should need to use to get this mated up (e.g. hitting it with a rubber mallet a few times?)

    When installed, I can replace the foam around the center vents, check vent operation, and put the interior back in place.
    I think I've convinced myself not to recolor the interior from blue to black, although I may potentially install black headliner.

  19. #44
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    UAE
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    Merc R129, E31, Jag XKR
    Quote Originally Posted by petejk View Post
    I think I've convinced myself not to recolor the interior from blue to black, although I may potentially install black headliner.
    I deleted the heater on mine. Got a pipe that makes a U turn at the engine side and completely deleted the Aux water pump.

    I switched from grey headliner to black A & C pillars and headliner

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Western Coastal CT
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    E31s
    Quote Originally Posted by spitfire980 View Post
    I deleted the heater on mine. Got a pipe that makes a U turn at the engine side and completely deleted the Aux water pump.

    I switched from grey headliner to black A & C pillars and headliner
    heater delete in the UAE arguably makes sense; in Georgia, maybe not so much!
    SteveCT
    E31s
    F30 daily driver

  21. #46
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    Grovetown, GA
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    1991 850i 6-speed
    Access to the evaporator made easy with the earlier removal of the glovebox from the car. I opted to cut it to extricate it from the car.
    There are a few threads on the topic, I found this the most useful to follow: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...r-Removal-Help

    IMG_3469.jpg

    Along with the dust and grime on the back of the old part, I gathered a nice bundle from the housing, roughly similar in size to the furball that came out of the blower housing, when I performed that replacement a couple of months ago.

    IMG_3471.jpg

    Crusty, hardened and misshapen O-rings. Each o-ring in the AC circuit will be replaced by the time I am done. I also took the opportunity, while the system was in pieces, to flush each line individually.

    IMG_3472.jpg

    New evaporator in place... but not quite. It is still not lined up to allow it to fully mate up, see next picture.

    IMG_3474.jpg

    This is going to be a head scratcher for me when I get hands onto it next. I've either got a duff evaporator, or I need to push harder!

    IMG_3476.jpg

    Replacement heater core is lined up, ready to drop in, once I have figured out how to zip up the replacement of this evaporator.
    Last edited by petejk; 12-02-2019 at 09:59 PM.

  22. #47
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    Grovetown, GA
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    752
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    1991 850i 6-speed
    The evaporator issue turned out to be a bad part. The GPD evaporator from Rock Auto that I had attempted to fit was simply the wrong shape to line up with the firewall.
    There are a few wise souls on this forum who emphasize the benefits of buying OEM. I try to do so for the majority of parts acquisition, but sometimes it doesn't make financial sense to me to do so.
    This is one of those cases where I could have saved myself a lot of time and frustration by buying the right part first time.

    So, I looked at the cost of the BMW part, gulped, and ordered the Rein! It fits like a glove, and will hopefully last a few years. See below:
    IMG_3478.jpg

    My power steering pump was suspect, as during my tear-down, I noticed an ATF leak. Having had my brake booster rebuilt by Master6, and seeing that he also did PSPs, I sent mine to him.
    It was sent back with crush washers, and was the last item (or so I thought), before I could reinstall all belt driven ancillaries , reinstall pulleys and tensioners etc, and take a decent jump forward in progress.

    IMG_3485.jpg

    With the car on jackstands, as I bolted the PSP and alternator back on the car, now was as good a time as any to swap in the front M-tech springs and CSi bump stops.
    Out with the old...

    IMG_3588.jpg

    And in with the new. This leaves the rears to do. I'm still unsure of where exactly on the rear suspension (rear trailing arm?) I need to unbolt in order to drop the stock rear springs.
    IMG_3590(Edited).jpg

    Finally able to install the front CSi sway bar and end links. Still to fit is a StrongStrut brace - the only factor now that could contribute to the vague steering I felt when I collected the car is adjustment of the steering box, as every other steering related item has been replaced.

    IMG_3591.jpg

  23. #48
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Grovetown, GA
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    752
    My Cars
    1991 850i 6-speed
    Having filled the new Denso AC compressor with PAG oil, reinstalled the top plate and heat shield, I attempted to bolt it up, and my heart sank as I realized that it was not going to fit. The bolts simply did not line up.

    I wish I had read Dusty21's comment in https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...or-91-E31-850i in advance.

    It looks like the early cars, originally equipped with R12 compressors, used a different AC compressor mounting bracket, part # 64551710471, which I've now ordered.

    IMG_3594.jpg

    Old bracket. The new part, shown here, https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/64551710471/ looks very similar, but on closer examination, the two lower mounting holes for the compressor are a little higher up in the casting.

    IMG_3593.jpg

    I did get a nice surprise when I checked the part number of my AC compressor lock sensor. The newer part was already installed, part # 61358360039. One less NLA part to try to find!

    IMG_3587(Edited).jpg

    I had hoped to be further along than this after this weekend's wrenching, but despite the mounting bracket set back, things are starting to take shape.
    The eagle-eyed amongst you may notice the suspiciously shiny bolt on the water pump pulley. In my haste, I over-torqued it, and had to use a reversed drill bit to extract the broken bolt, which was a first for me.
    All tensioners, washers, and nuts replaced, as previously there had been several that were either missing, or incorrectly sized. Again, RealOEM to the rescue!

    IMG_3592.jpg
    Last edited by petejk; 12-30-2019 at 12:13 PM.

  24. #49
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    Grovetown, GA
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    1991 850i 6-speed
    This weekend's progress update:
    Having received a new AC compressor mounting bracket, I was able to mount the new AC compressor, condenser, and drier, with new O-rings, in preparation for drawing a vacuum, and charging the system with R134a.

    New bracket in place - I had waited a week and a half for this, as it was ordered shortly after New Year, which held up progress for me last weekend.

    IMG_3633.jpg

    New BEHR condenser, with auxiliary fan. Mounting this in place was made easier, as I removed the headlamp buckets for access to some rotten air intake hoses, to check for the presence of an exterior air temperature sensor in the driver's side duct, and also for better access to the AC drier.

    IMG_3637.jpg

    Amazon's finest budget AC gauges. This is a first for me, and I had high hopes that I would be able to complete the task without any hiccups. Unfortunately, as seems to be the case with anything relating the AC on this car, nothing seems to go smoothly!

    IMG_3635.jpg

    And here is the little vacuum pump which was able to pull to a 29in vacuum for over an hour. Unfortunately, when the high and low side was closed, and the pump turned off, a leak (or leaks) led to the reading quickly returning to zero. I am hoping this leak is from the high and low charge points, however I have no real way to check.
    At this point, I am unsure whether I want to spend more time chasing this down, or whether to take the car to a specialist when it's back on the road, for leak detection and charging.
    It is pretty frustrating, given that every AC component, and every o-ring has been replaced, but I am not sure what I can really do next, short of pressurizing the system, and spraying soap and water, on every connection and maybe getting lucky in identifying the leak source.

    IMG_3636.jpg

    So tomorrow morning, I will take some time with a soldering iron and some heat shrink, and make a start on the stereo wiring harness. This will be a change of pace from butting my head up against the brick wall that is the AC system!
    Below, on the left is a 17 pin repair harness, as the original plug on the car has been chopped off. I will run a 9-wire back to the new amplifier from the speaker connections in this harness, so reverting back to a stock CD-43 type radio in the future will be a plug and play operation.
    In the middle is a male 17-pin harness which I will wire into the ISO harness for the new head unit which is on the right. The new head unit will output through phono leads to the new amplifier.

    I will also insert a pin each side for a future steering wheel controls project.

    IMG_3638.jpg

  25. #50
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Grovetown, GA
    Posts
    752
    My Cars
    1991 850i 6-speed
    Update: leak traced to drier.
    After unbolting and resealing both outlets the leak persisted, until I took a wrench to the drier sensor (pictured). Once tightened, I pulled a vacuum, and the system has been leak free for 12 hours. Progress!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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