Rescued a '01 740i M Sport, just now getting around to introducing myself here *long*

[Manny G.]

So as the title reads, about a month ago I picked up an 04/01 build 2001 740i M-sport, Alpine over gray. Clean title, 180k miles, 1 owner, timing chain guides done about 20k miles ago with receipt. The Carfax is a mess thanks to Louisiana and their laws about vehicle claims and losses. Being familiar with the E39, I was anxious to get my hands into an E38 project since I already experienced much of the woes of owning a BMWs of that era.

I actually thought that this would be the perfect E38 to go through and make a series of YouTube DIY repair videos.. maybe on some kind of E38 source (similar to E39 source), but it would be a huge challenge for me since I'm just not good at DIY video creation to the level of which I would want to see. Editing videos and doing voice overs and such are just way out of my experience... wish I knew someone local good at that.

IMG_20191021_183224.jpgIMG_20191021_183206.jpgIMG_20191021_183153.jpg

Anyway, I originally saw the car listed in the CCA ads back around July being sold locally by a member who had interest in rescuing the car from the owner, but coming from a much older era of cars (2002s), he found that the car was going to be more of a challenge than he wanted to work with. I had been hunting specifically for a 2001 M-sport shorty in either Alpine or Imola for an eventual S62 swap of my own, and low and behold, this Alpine one pops up ticking just enough boxes to catch my interest. He rang me up and here we are.

Issues I knew about at purchase:

• - Edited 12/6/2023*
• ABS Trifecta on - FIXED*
• Power steering pump was shot, dumping fluid as soon as you put it in - FIXED*
• Auto trans issue - Semi-FIXED* - Swapped to Getrag 420g 6-speed from an E39 M5
• Missing underbody plastic liners, both front wheels and engine - temorarily-FIXED* - FIXED*
• Deteriorating plastic and rubber trim
• Cracked windshield - FIXED*
• Minor hail damage, barely visible - Mostly FIXED*
• Front suspension bushings worn
• Curbed wheels, all 4
• Nav screen was blank - FIXED*
• AC not blowing cold - FIXED*
• Worn interior trim and leather
• Side mirror glasses both leaked dimming fluid - FIXED*
• Center armrest looked beat to... junk (watching my language for JimLev) - FIXED*
• Cluster pixels out as usual - FIXED*
• Sagging headliner - Redone in Silver/Grey Alcantara

Within the first week of having the car:

• Water pump about to go bad, finally seized, snapped the pulley apart - FIXED*
• Headlight wiring was disintegrating inside the headlight - FIXED*
• Front ABS sensor wiring was a mess - FIXED*
• Rear subwoofers completely sun damaged - FIXED*
• Passenger/Right tailight has a section that refuses to turn on - FIXED* (newer LCM)
• Passenger seat adjusts crooked rear part up and down - FIXED*
• Center console cubby hole & ash tray has some broken plastic pieces, tough to open and close
• Found a complete chicken nugget under the passenger seat, at least a few years old, not decomposed
• Found a Gold American Express card (expired) inside/underneath the center console, belonged to original owners wife... only in a 7 series.

For laughs, I posted the chicken nugget on OfferUp for $50. This was during the week before the whole Popeyes chicken sandwich drama was going on, so I made it a fun listing saying how it was a new old stock BMW chicken nugget, Popeyes edition... the replies I got were great including ridiculous offers that no one would take seriously. I needed this humor because the stress of what I had just taken on as a project was just starting to settle in.
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The AMEX:
IMG_20191028_133400.jpg

I wasted no time in ordering a power steering pump, .. I picked up a BMW/LUK re-manufactured one for $201 shipped. Then I ordered ALL new Rein power steering lines and hoses, as well as a new reservoir with some fresh CHF. As I was driving the car up on to the ramps to do the steering pump work, the water pump finally gives out and seized with a nice crack sound. I opened the hood to find the belt barely holding on to the broken pulley and completely locked up. At this point I was either going to pull the belt off, and finish driving it the last few inches up the ramp, or let it roll back down and just jack it up. In the interest of my patience, I jacked it up.



Brown juice everywhere. The water pump spits out that brown burnt looking mud when it fails, happened with my E39 as well. I cleaned up much of the engine bay from the coolant and the power steering fluid so I could get to work... then I quickly found out how hard it is to get that rear banjo bolt out of the steering box on the E38. Once I got all of the old power steering lines and hoses out, the new stuff went in easy as pie. Then I got started on the water pump. I ordered a Level 1 coolant system refresh kit from ECS, it included everything needed to change the water pump. Once I got all the old water pump stuff out, I went through inspecting everything and installed all the new parts, filled and bled both the coolant system and the power steering system at the same time. Both working perfectly. I checked those things off the list and moved on.


Now on to the ABS trifecta. I posted a separate thread about this because while I'm familiar with the DSC system and the trifecta of lights coming from the E39 community, this particular E38 supposedly already had the ABS module replaced... I wanted to make sure there were no slight differences I needed to worry about on the E38 compared to the E39. The seller mentioned to me that he sent the original module out, it wasn't repairable, and got a replacement in... "it probably needs some coding or something". Well, the car did need a steering angle sensor adjustment/calibration carried out, which I did, and then I also processed the module with NCS to code it just to make sure, but the trifecta stayed. I gave the car a scan with PA Soft and found the intermittent wheel sensor errors that were coming and going as I turned the wheel back and forth. This was also observed when I was bleeding the power steering system. A few days later, after posting on the forum about it and picking my brain for what it could be, I went to check out the connection boxes in the wheel housings for the ABS sensor and found that the harness for the sensor was crumbled and barely holding on to dear life under a sludge of power steering fluid. Literally as I was typing all of this, my new VDO brand ABS sensors arrived and I'm going to be off to get started on them once I post this.


The headlights were an interesting story. After this experience, I've learned that I love E38 headlights for how modular they are. I came from E39-bake-open-your-headlight-if-it-was-made-before-X-date-or-cut-it-open world. Same with a handful of other cars, the headlights were always so restrictive to service. When I saw the car at purchase, the lenses looked faded, but everything worked. Once got home, opened the hood, started inspecting stuff more closely, I must've bumped something because then suddenly the passenger Xenon bulb was flickering. When I popped in a spare I had, I quickly noticed the color difference and the pink hue setting in on the other old working bulb. They were the original factory Xenon bulbs coming to end of life, so I replaced them with a spare set I already had. While doing this, i noticed the wiring inside the headlight was just falling apart. The insulation for the wiring was brittle and just flaking apart everywhere. I pulled out the headlights, stripped them down completely, and figured I'd try to find the inner harness for sale somewhere online. Luckily BMW had a separate part number for it, 63128381467, and it was not expensive at all, $15 per side... and for the BONUS, it came with the additional connector for the city light bulb which the headlight already had a hole for. I ordered new harnesses, AL lenses and gaskets... headlights look brand new and I didn't have to break my elbows buffing the old ones. For fun I tossed in a set of 3000k Hella 9005 Yellow high beam bulbs. Checked this off my list with the note to come back and move the wire from the turn signal over to the harness for the headlight's city light.

The front turn signals were in desperate need of attention too. The plastic fork that holds them in had broken off at some point and they had been siliconed in place. Not fun to pull out. Once I got them out, I found a set of the NLA Euro clear versions, Magneti Marelli OE brand. I also replaced all of the deteriorated rubber trim that was around them and the headlights with new parts from BMW.


Both of the side mirror glasses had the LCD fluid all leaked around inside. The seller had offered me one in the trunk but it wasn't dimming and was not going to work, looked like it was the older style that had the mirror stuck on rather than the newer ones that come off by moving the switch underneath the mirror frame. I ordered a new pair of original dimming, heated mirrors... but with the bonus aspherical angle lens on the ends. I changed both sides in roughly 10 minutes. Checked it off, moved on.


The factory nav computer was shot. Screen was black.. it was an MK3 unit. I didn't bother with troubleshooting it... I put in the MK4 out of my E39 just to make sure it was only that and it was. Ordered an MK4 computer, installed it, updated it to latest software, enabled perspective view, done. I'm waiting for the new Sharp LCD screen to get here from my China contact so I can address the old faded and dead pixel look of the old on-board monitor. I've changed plenty of monitor screens before on E46 and E39s as well, even flipped a few JY repaired ones on Ebay for profit.


The AUX fan is a bit of a mystery to me right now. I scanned the car when I first bought it and saw an error int he DME for Activation, electric fan. I ordered a second hand used original BMW one off eBay, presumably working, installed it... fault cleared away, but it still doesn't turn on. The fan it had was an aftermarket and the blades were stiff to turn... the replacement turned somewhat freely. I've taken a step back from trying to fix this to see if its something stupid and simple. I checked all fuses, all fuses are fine. I tried to activate it through INPA, but got nothing. I tried to check for the K21/K22 relays, but those relays are for the older style fan, this car doesn't even have those relays behind the glove box. A/C is not blowing cold. The system blows air, and the compressor clutch engages and disengages when pushing the snowflake button or the MAX button.... just no cold air. For the hell of it, since I was all in underneath the dash looking for wires and fuses, I replaced the small filters on the side of the box in the dash... old ones were horrible looking.


The lower windshield plastic cowl trim was brittle and coming apart. It was not limiting water from draining down around the e-box at all... I ordered a new one and replaced it in about 30 minutes. My wiper arm puller wouldn't fit on the E38 left wiper, getting the arm off was a bulk of the time. Once I had that replaced, I knew I had to start worrying about moisture in the e-box. I popped open the e-box and sure enough, at first glance everything looked fine. I started shining my light into the lower part of it and there was about 1/4" of standing water... and a lost 30a fuse that must have fallen out of the lid. I disconnected the battery, lifted out the trans and engine ECUs, reached down with some weed-whacker string and pushed it down through the drainage hole. I was able to free up dirt and debris that was clogging it up and what drained out was a nasty sludge of water. I rinsed it down with a little 90% ISO and let it air out while I inspected the ECUs and cables. The trans ECU connector #4 had the white/green calcium corrosion build up on the connector and a little down into the ECU. I cleaned it up with contact cleaner, opened the ECU to make sure nothing was worse inside, looked fine. I also found water on the 10 pin black motor connector, X69. The connector handles mostly diagnostic communication sans the ACC and charcoal filter. I'm thinking that this was partially the reason I couldn't communicate with the trans ECU/EGS with PA Soft or with INPA. Strangely enough, I had to pull the jumper wire off the pins in the diagnostic cap just to get the car to let me turn it on, it wasn't reading the 'P' or the 'N' in the cluster... my guess is that the short was causing havoc in the communication line.


The auto trans itself.. 5HP24, I'm not going to worry about too much since my plans are to get a manual in there... BUT, I'd like to be able to pull it out in some sort of condition that can make it easy to re-sell. I'm fairly certain that a fluid flush and filter change will help it out... maybe even a new wire harness for the temp sensor, new solenoids and speed sensor. It has small bump in the shift between 1-2 and 2-1...other gears at times have a less than smooth shift... and shifting back and forth from reverse to drive, occasionally is harsh.


I've been trying to get in contact with Paul Martin (blackknight530i) from the E39 section for a pixel repair, but he hasn't yet or even posted on the forum in weeks. He worked on my black-faced E39 M5 cluster a few years back and the cluster has been rock solid ever since. I'm hoping to get the E38s cluster out to him for some repair and maybe some mods soon.

... ok I think that catches me up to where I am today with the car from over the past month. I can only post 5 pictures per post, and I refuse to use online picture hosts after the way that all these photo hosting sites have ruined forum posts. More pictures will come in the follow up posts.

[Manny G.]

Old armrest vs. 'newer' armrest
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New headlight lens on left, old on right
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Blown apart water pump pulley (thankfully I had a spare from the E39)
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New water pump vs. old one
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New/Reman Power steering pump vs old one
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[Manny G.]

Condition of the old wiring in the headlights. Note the wires exiting the housing to the Xenon ballast
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Pulled out the old wire harness, new one next to it on left
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These little rubber trim pieces are $65 new EACH. yes I ordered new ones.
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Fresh set of Philips Ultinon 6000k bulbs left over from E39 long ago
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Hella 3000k 9005 yellow high-beam bulbs
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[Manny G.]

New AL/Bosch Euro NLA turn signals
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Blown rear subs, before I pulled them out and installed refurbished ones
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MK4 Nav update
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[KinkedChrome]

Dang, it appears that you wasted exactly zero time getting that car sorted out. Have you gotten to enjoy driving it at all or just been turning wrenches on it?

If you're on facebook, you can get a hold of blacknight530i there. Look up "Fixels", he has done two clusters for me. One of them was just a few months ago.

[marclar]

Looks like you purchased CHF type hydraulic fluid for your powersteering. I also have a 01 M-Sport and it is marked to use Castrol ATF for power steering. Most vendor sites list CHF for the 7 series since many non sport models had self leveling suspension which takes CHF. The single (non tandem) power steering pump models should use ATF. How is your power steering feel with CHF?

[rslifkin]

PS isn't a super fluid sensitive system on most cars. Generally any fluid that doesn't shear badly, doesn't foam, is of appropriate viscosity, and is compatible with the seals in the system will work fine. My PS works just fine on Mopar ATF+4, as it's already around the garage and I'm not buying separate fluid for the PS or feeding it expensive ZF unicorn blood.

Heck, I swapped my Jeep over to ATF+4 in the steering despite the dire manufacturer warnings never to put ATF in the PS. Steering worked better in cold weather (fluid had better cold flow than the standard spec-ed PS fluid), a seal stopped leaking, and nothing bad happened. And that PS pump has 249k miles on it, probably 100k of them with ATF in the system.

[Manny G.]

Dang, it appears that you wasted exactly zero time getting that car sorted out. Have you gotten to enjoy driving it at all or just been turning wrenches on it?

If you're on facebook, you can get a hold of blacknight530i there. Look up "Fixels", he has done two clusters for me. One of them was just a few months ago.

From the time I originally saw the car in person, to a week later when I went back to buy it, I had already started building a list of things I wanted to tackle right away. The most I was able to drive it was from Ft Lauderdale where I bought it to my home in Coral Springs which is about a 30 minute highway drive. The engine felt great, the car hauls even with the list of crap wrong with it.

I am not on Facebook anymore, deactivated my account back in 2017... wasn't good for my mental health. I've sent Paul an email and a PM through this forum where he seemed most active. I'll have to try M5board next.

Looks like you purchased CHF type hydraulic fluid for your power steering. I also have a 01 M-Sport and it is marked to use Castrol ATF for power steering. Most vendor sites list CHF for the 7 series since many non sport models had self leveling suspension which takes CHF. The single (non tandem) power steering pump models should use ATF. How is your power steering feel with CHF?

Yes, I went with the CHF 11S, the green stuff. From what I understand, this is the approved power steering fluid that is supposed to be used in the system, regardless of single or tandem pump. I have heard of people using red ATF+4 or Dexron 4, which is what I used early in my E39's life... but interestingly enough that system was constantly leaking. About 4 years ago I did the system all over again with CHF, not a drop since and the power steering on the E39 works great.

As for the E38, so far its hard to tell because I'm having Servotronic issues also. When the Servo is kicked in, steering is Cadillac-light ... maybe even pinky light.. too light for me actually, I'm used to a little more feedback in my BMWs. With the Servo off, the power steering is a little heavier actually, but not as tight as my E39.. the E39 is also on coilovers and wide 19s so I'm sure that's affecting my comparison

See here, realoem shows as CHF 11S as the power steering fluid to be used.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=32_0691

[Manny G.]

Forgot to mention, the reason I was able to find things like a chicken nugget and a credit card is because I pulled out the seats and center console out of the car to tackle shampooing the carpet. There were HUGE coffee stains on the carpet between the seats and center console, among stains for other things... here is one particular shot of the progress i was making getting rid of one of the worse coffee stains, it was completely brown down the side carpet around the transmission tunnel... I got about 95% of it out,.. I'm going to try a steam cleaner next with a Bissell ProHeat SpotClean to see how it goes
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The OBD cover was driving me crazy, old one was velcro'ed on and looked terrible... $11 later, new kit.
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The AC may not blow cold, but it smells clean now. The old one obviously on the right. These are the filters up under the dash on the sides of the blower unit.. not the cabin filters under the hood, I have a new pair of those to go in next.
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[mrkevinhoang]

what a great read! good job on all the work you put into it. really shows love for the car(s)

[Manny G.]

So I changed the front wheel sensors, not much change in ABS trifecta. The wiring wasn't as bad as I originally thought once I got everything cleaned off... the connector that really ate it was the Servotronic one. I circled around wondering what my alternative options were to having to dish out $300something for a new Servotronic valve.... the valve works, but the wiring has lost all of its insulation. I thought of temporarily wrapping the wires with electrical tape, but then realized.... I ran out lol . I went with a second idea last minute, I sleeved the original cables with vinyl heat shrink tubing, pulled off what was left of the valve's wire connector, and just wrapped the bare wire ends around the car's Servotronic pins. This way, I can still get the new connector and slip the pins back in, and the new valve some day will provide the other end.

Finally putting this on the internet,
car's RED+BLACK to Servo valve RED wire,
car's BLACK+WHITE to Servo valve YELLOW wire..

This was no where to be found on the internet, pictures, or TIS/WDS.. I spent over an hour searching just to be sure. WDS only shows the colors of the car's wire connector, not the Servo valve's connector.

NOW power steering feels AMAAAAZING, just what I would expect for a sporty 7 series, especially an E38.

PA Soft scans still see intermittent front wheel sensor errors, left, right, sometimes both, sometimes neither... with the new added bonus of the rear left one now occasionally throwing an error. I checked them all out today, they were Delphi brand... didn't notice anything unusual.

My constant error now with the ABS/DSC is the pressure sensor, open circuit. I tested the wires from the pressure sensor back to the ABS connector, all 3 wires found continuity fine.. I'm settled on saying that the ABS module is bad... I was hoping that it really was a good replacement module in there when I bought the car, but eh, I learned. I'll try to see if I can snag one up at the the LKQ yard by me.. maybe get a few.



I have a bulb in the passenger side/right tail light that will just not light up. It's the center outer bulb. I've put in 1156 single filaments, 1157 dual filaments,.. I even tried a 5007 5w single filament which is what the older E38s had, nothing lights up in that spot. I tried swapping around bulb holders as well, nothing. Strange burn mark on the brake light bulbs contact point metal... brake light works, all other lights work. Any ideas?

I checked the LCM. Pulled it out from under a cake of dust. Looks like maybe water might've washed over it ? not sure. When I pulled it apart there was tons of dust all over it. I blew off the bulk, brushed off the stubborn then contact cleaned the rest. Scrubbed the pins with a stainless steel bristle brush as well.

IMG_20191119_135052.jpg

[Manny G.]

So I'm still turning wrenches on the 740, but I've made tons of progress on the ABS trifecta issue since my last post.

I bought a used ABS module from eBay.. looks to be a very late production version of the module too, when I scan it in PA Soft, it finds the software as being a 2015 version. Since I purchased it from a seller who mentioned it was from a 2001 740, I didn't think I would need to do much coding once I installed it. I was right... swapped out the module in about 10 minutes, fired up the car, no more trifecta. I did have to re-calibrate the steering angle sensor, ... did it with Tool32 and the DSC light shut off.

Replacement used ABS module on the left, old bad one out of my car on the right
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The label on the bottom of the replacement ABS module
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Took the car for a drive, the trifecta came back. Shut off the car, turn it back on, gone.. drove again, trifecta turned on again. I noticed it was happening after 25mph. Pulled out the scanner again, noticed a message about pressure sensor, precharge pump plausibility. I did some digging around on what that message meant in case it was linked to another issue, found this site: http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e38/ABS/Index.htm. It lays out exactly what I was facing, both with the ABS module, and then the precharge pump. I tested the precharge pump with an external 12v power source and I got no response from it.

Frustrated, yet determined, I decided to see if I could finally settle my worry of whether or not my auxiliary fan was working. I bought this used OEM BMW aux fan off ebay thinking it would solve the problem with my AC not blowing cold, I was wrong. I tried activating the fan through INPA, but nothing triggers it to start. I created a separate thread on it which I'll be updating soon, and the replies I received on the thread helped me be more sure that I wasn't missing something small or stupid.. there is definitely something up with the cars AC system or aux fan wiring. My thoughts are leaning towards a bad IHKA module or low refrigerant charge in the system... OR an evaporator temp sensor that isn't working right. I needed to find a way to test this aux fan I had now, and thats when I realized that I could hook it up to the 540 and see if it would wake up. It did. I hooked up the 540 fan to the 740 and vise versa.. discovered the fan worked just fine, but still dont know why INPA wont activate it.

Now kiss...
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How's that for close
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I knew I needed a break when I found myself laying in bed at 3am looking at wiring diagrams for ABS and AC system. The much needed break could not have come any sooner, it was nice to come up for air and catch up with family and the Thanksgiving holiday.. it helped clear my head from being so focused on getting this car to where I would like to have it. I tend to get too obsessive in fixing things when I get in the 'groove' and the tunnel vision of working on this very neglected E38 was taking a toll on me.

Once I was ready to get back to tackling the ABS system, I took a ride to the local LKQ U-Pull It yard near me and snagged a precharge pump from a 2002 540 that recently showed up. I found a few other cars that had the same pump in the yard (530, X5), but the 540 has it right up front under the power steering reservoir... took less than 10 minutes to remove it. I also snagged an IHKA from a 2000 740 (with MAX button), and the rear window EWS/FZV trap circuit antenna modules.. and a handful of small misc plastic pieces like valve cover square cover thingys.. (u know, the square thing with the stripes on it that covers the bolt) and some wheel sensor harness connectors.

Replacement precharge pump from 2002 540 on left, old bad one from the 740 on the right
IMG_20191210_162049.jpg

As soon as I got home I tested the precharge pump I just picked up with my external 12v power supply and it fired right up. I took to pulling the old one out of the car with minimal brake fluid loss. The whole swap took at best 20 minutes, super easy job. I went for a ride once it was all done and held my breath when I passed 25mph... no trifecta. In total disbelief, I went through a few stops and starts, power cycles of the car, scanned it again to make sure... it really was finally all fixed. The actual cost to me to fix it was $160,.. $100 for the ABS module on ebay, $60 for the precharge pump at the LKQ yard. The wheel sensors, pretty sure the ones the car had were good, I left the new ones installed up front... having a 540 that uses the same sensors, may not be a bad idea to keep them around. This was a good feeling moment for me.. I sat back, cracked a beer and thought to myself.. "the dealer would have charged upwards of $3-4k to fix all of that.." .. wow.


On to the next thing. .. the IKE and the broken MID.

[Manny G.]

I never heard back from Paul Martin... but I did get an idea of how much it was going to cost to repair the pixels on the IKE. That's when I made the decision between repairing the existing one, or finding an M5 / X5 4.x-is cluster. I went with the latter, and found a nice 2006 4.8is cluster with 174k miles.. 6k miles less than the car had. It had a perfectly good working set of pixels in the MID and it had a 'refreshed' look for the interior... the old one looked so plain and boring. I was hoping to find one with less mileage as my E38 so that when the mileage sync occurred between the LCM and IKE, the cars true mileage would take over in the IKE from the LCM.

My old IKE, damaged pixels in the MID were pretty bad
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Had to swap this small overlay from one cluster to the other... the 740 doesnt have 4x4
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Testing the X5 cluster
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Coded to the car, need to find the DME tune for the 740 that enables the oil temp lights
IMG_20191207_174327.jpg


I tried looking for the post of the M5 cluster retrofit we had going in the E39 forum... but I had a hard time finding it, mainly because I know there was more than one. I was part of one almost 10 years ago where I remember putting in a lot of development and testing for the 540 with ?TerraPhantm? was the user name... there was a post there somewhere that had the E38 file for the ME7.2 DME with the oil temp lights working. I have a tune, but its modified Dinan stage 5 for a manual 540. Anybody have a good lead on this so I can download the file?

[franco90]

wow awesome job and nice looking car

[franco90]

Condition of the old wiring in the headlights. Note the wires exiting the housing to the Xenon ballast
IMG_20191025_143007.jpg

Pulled out the old wire harness, new one next to it on left
IMG_20191103_130811.jpg

These little rubber trim pieces are $65 new EACH. yes I ordered new ones.
IMG_20191025_143029.jpg

Fresh set of Philips Ultinon 6000k bulbs left over from E39 long ago
IMG_20191110_154609.jpg

Hella 3000k 9005 yellow high-beam bulbs
IMG_20191110_154730.jpg

Do you have a parts number for those Philips Ultinon 6000k bulbs and Hella 3000k 9005 yellow high-beam bulbs
Thanks

Franco

[Manny G.]

Do you have a parts number for those Philips Ultinon 6000k bulbs and Hella 3000k 9005 yellow high-beam bulbs
Thanks

Franco

The Philips Ultinon bulbs were left over from an old set of euro Volkswagen Bora (Jetta MK4) headlights my wifes old car had almost 10 years ago. I removed the headlights sold the car with the factory headlights. If I had to take a stab at trying to get these again, I'd have to try either Amazon or Ebay. I'm not sure if they would have an OEM BMW part number, but BMW does offer a set of D2S "BMW Blue Xenon Lamps" Part number: 63112296305 .. I'd have to guess that these would be as close to the Ultinon 6000k bulb as anything else.


For the yellow Hella bulbs, I got them off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[subzero32]

Forgot to mention, the reason I was able to find things like a chicken nugget and a credit card is because I pulled out the seats and center console out of the car to tackle shampooing the carpet. There were HUGE coffee stains on the carpet between the seats and center console, among stains for other things... here is one particular shot of the progress i was making getting rid of one of the worse coffee stains, it was completely brown down the side carpet around the transmission tunnel... I got about 95% of it out,.. I'm going to try a steam cleaner next with a Bissell ProHeat SpotClean to see how it goes
IMG_20191027_144945.jpg

The OBD cover was driving me crazy, old one was velcro'ed on and looked terrible... $11 later, new kit.
IMG_20191028_115937.jpg

The AC may not blow cold, but it smells clean now. The old one obviously on the right. These are the filters up under the dash on the sides of the blower unit.. not the cabin filters under the hood, I have a new pair of those to go in next.
IMG_20191117_173939.jpg

What is the part number for that OBDII cover? I have never even thought of this solution!

[franco90]

34899648670_b8284a1c15_z.jpg

are we twins

[haynes740]

What is the part number for that OBDII cover? I have never even thought of this solution!

Subscribed; I would like that part number as well.


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[Manny G.]

What is the part number for that OBDII cover? I have never even thought of this solution!

Subscribed; I would like that part number as well.


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Part number for the cover is: 51168218367

Part number for the spring nut is: 64111364257 (2 needed)

The cover is available at ECS for about $10. The spring nuts are very common on many BMWs, you will need to cut the old one off with something like a Dremel like I used... careful not to damage the wood trim piece's stud. I pressed the new ones down onto the trim's studs using a small socket, i think it was 6mm IIRC

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34899648670_b8284a1c15_z.jpg

are we twins

I see you went with the Euro front plate trim for the front bumper... looks good! I was thinking about going with one of those myself if not the plate-delete trim.

[franco90]

Part number for the cover is: 51168218367

Part number for the spring nut is: 64111364257 (2 needed)

The cover is available at ECS for about $10. The spring nuts are very common on many BMWs, you will need to cut the old one off with something like a Dremel like I used... careful not to damage the wood trim piece's stud.I pressed the new ones down onto the trim's studs using a small socket, i think it was 6mm IIRC

good to know this

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Part number for the cover is: 51168218367

Part number for the spring nut is: 64111364257 (2 needed)

The cover is available at ECS for about $10. The spring nuts are very common on many BMWs, you will need to cut the old one off with something like a Dremel like I used... careful not to damage the wood trim piece's stud. I pressed the new ones down onto the trim's studs using a small socket, i think it was 6mm IIRC

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I see you went with the Euro front plate trim for the front bumper... looks good! I was thinking about going with one of those myself if not the plate-delete trim.

yes it gives the car a better EURO LOOK LOL

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The euro plate holder is Cheaper compare to the front plate delete
Euro Plate holder $22.73
https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/130...t-51118146076/
Front Plate Delete $140.39

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...m/51118150492/

[haynes740]

Thanks


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[Manny G.]

good to know this

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yes it gives the car a better EURO LOOK LOL

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The euro plate holder is Cheaper compare to the front plate delete
Euro Plate holder $22.73
https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/130...t-51118146076/
Front Plate Delete $140.39

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...m/51118150492/

Yeah that $140 price for that piece is what has me holding off on buying it. I'd only get that expensive of a trim piece if I were to get the complete trim of the whole car so that the piece doesn't look newer than the others. I'll decide which one I go with once I square away the mechanics and functions of the car first

Thanks


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Sure... you're welcome. LOL one question,... your sig,.. what are "Porn lights"?

[CPHES]

Porn lights are the slang term for the C Pillar lights in the rear of the 750’s. There is an additional button that lights a bulb, and it gives a background light effect. It got nicknamed porn lights many years ago.

[haynes740]

yes what he said. We color the lenses red/orange to to match the interior mood lights on dash and door handles.




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