Oh...and I thought battery at first and replaced the battery. Car still did not crank. So not a battery issue. Starter possibly. Hoping it’s just a starter. Find it incredibly hard to believe it could be anything else.
Hmmm, batteries aren’t usually fully charged as they sit on the loading dock, in trucks, in a warehouse and finally on the store shelf. Your issue could be the battery isn’t charged properly. Do you hear anything when you try to start the engine? What’s the voltage at the new battery?
Also, check the jumper post located under the hood under the red plastic cover. This is where the red battery cable from the trunk connects with the large power distribution cables. One goes to the starter. There could be corrosion where the cables’ connectors are joined.
Do you have a second key? Try it as the EWS (anti-theft system) won’t allow exciter voltage to be sent to the starter if the key sends the EWS the wrong code.
I even tried to jump it after putting the new battery in. I checked voltage before and during the jump start. 13.1 before and 13.9 while jumping. Neither attempt had the car turning over. I can hear the fuel pump prime when turning the key. I have two FOBs and neither started the car. Strange thing is that one fob wouldn’t unlock the car via the button. So I followed advice on how to sync a fob and it worked. But then the other fob wouldn’t work! I sync that one and it would work but the other wouldn’t. I’m leaning to the belief that something in the cars anti theft or immobilization system is whack. Or the starter. But I’ve pulled or checked every relevant fuse and they are all good. What about relays..? Are there relays associated with theft/immobilization?
04M3 TiAg 69k slick-top 3 pedal
99M3 Cosmos 61k S50B32 euro 6Spd
88M3 AW 43k miles Project FS
WTB: 3.5" Eurosport/Conforti CAI
DME is in the engine bay driver's side under the hood (across from the drug cubby).
IIRC, the EWS and other anti-theft components are in driver's side footwell area (but I might be confusing that with e36).
in one of the many threads on this vehicle by this OP - something was mentioned of water in the passenger side compartment after dropping the fuse panel there. quite a few circuits get power and/or ground from that panel - so, to me, that's awfully suspicious. i need to go back and look at the codes.
if the car is truly a no start/no crank, i'd want to verify power was leaving the ignition switch with the key in the start position (assuming EWS seemed happy after a scan for codes).
since, again, in one of the many threads, there was also a report of "electrical weirdness" (technical term) i'd still want to further investigate for water intrusion, damage. i'd want to actually test fuses with a meter (or, better yet a test light).
i'd also pull out the BMW TIS or other wiring diagram and look at the start/power distribution (which is part of my suggestion above for verifying power leaving the ignition switch).....
that's how i'd proceed anyway - others may have other or better ideas.....if we can keep this thread all in one spot we have a good chance of helping - when the threads get all spread out i lose interest fast....
- - - Updated - - -
the vehicle was parked and sat for awhile - another thing i'd want to do is check appropriate wiring for continuity - any signs of critter/rodent damage, etc.....
'95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!
Good stuff. I read something on this site or another site about checking something pertaining to the security system..? As in get in the car. Close the door. Key up one position then open door. If you hear the chime that means something but if you don’t that means something? Hope I’m making sense. But if I open the door and hear no chime what could that mean?
If a car comes to my shop with a no-crank condition, I first check that the battery + terminal under4hood is hot with 12.6 volts. Then I use a battery jumper cable to make sure the engine is properly grounded to the frame/body.
Then, if there's still nothing when the key is turned to start position, I use a PowerProbe to test the starter activation terminal for power when the key is turned to start. If no power reaches that terminal, I push the "HOT" button on the PowerProbe to deliver power to the activation terminal. This is a double check, to ensure that the starter itself is okay. It won't turn the engine, but it will certainly make a good starter TRY to work.
If there's no activation, I will start at the ignition switch start wire, see if that goes hot when key is turned to start.
If so, well, then, the hunt gets more complex, and we start looking at the EWS with a good BMW diag computer, and break out the wiring diagrams of the start circuit, to find out where the power disappears.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Good intel Chris. Where is the starter activation terminal.? And I guess I’ll ask Santa for a PowerProbe
Chris. Here’s what happened yesterday. I had already tried both keys before to start the car. Neither obviously worked. Yesterday I put the second key in,turned to on. Took key out. Held down unlock. Pressed lock 3 times. Put key in and it fired up!. Car ran great and took it on a 25 minute drive. Absolutely no issues other then the dash lights were out and I couldn’t get them on. Headlights,turns and brakes all worked. Turn signals would not light in the cluster either nor the hazards although they did work. Came home. Turned car off. Tried to start. Nada. Same dal. Car would not turn over. So...key issue maybe? Battery in key? But now neither key unlocks or locks via remote. I’m stumped dude...
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