I managed to take the throttle actuators out, and replaced the gears inside with the gear kit we get from ebay.
After installing back everything, realized i had replaced the gears from bank1 while the fault was with bank2.
Ordered another kit on ebay, and waiting for them. Any work on the M5 is a pain, but now my hands are scratched and
have blood on them, next time it should take me less time and effort !!
I had failed to remember which bank had the problem
Taking the plastic intake manifold off was scary, but after reading up some posts here, i used a pry bar to pop them off.
Without the pry bar, they just wouldn't budge. Getting them back on was not hard, just had to bang on the top with
fist to snap them into place.
Replaced bank2 plastic gears, and Problem still persists with bank 2 !!
The error code is CDC0 DME: Throttle-valve actuator, CAN message, bank 2.
This happens only when the engine is warm, and stop it for few minutes and then try to start the car.
The error comes up before ignition and the RPM is limited to 4500 in limp mode.
Bring the car bank home in limp mode and let it cool off overnight, and next morning works like a charm.
So, both bank1 and bank2 have new plastic gears, and yet bank2 shows failure still.
I read up: the "CAN" message means it may be electronic related. The old plastic gears do show some wear
near the initial front part where they may be failing, but I can't see how the new plastic gears
can throw the same error now.
Will swap the two actuators and see if the error follows the electronics in bad actuator, OR it sticks
to bank2 even after swapping (it may mean problem with the electronic BUS talking to DME).
Each actuator work takes like 4 hours (typically with bruised fingers and blood) :
1. Take cabin air filters off.
2. take the tension bar off (dont know what the heck it does).
3. Take boths sides air filter boxes off.
4. Loosen coolant expansion tank and slide it to side.
5. Loosen 10 screws to take bank1 and bank2 intake manifolds.
6. Disconnect battery, and take out the bolts holding the cables so it can be lifted with the plastic enclosure.
7. Take out the actuators.
8. vacuum clean the vee
Last edited by sshivaram; 11-17-2019 at 09:41 AM.
Now you see why dealerships and mechanics in general charge what they do. Some jobs are easy, and some are not. Lots of blood, sweat, and pieces of skin left behind.
And yes, a CAN fault is likely electrical. Swapping them is a good way to isolate the problem.
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
As a DIY, my goal is to replace failing parts with parts that I find on ebay that still have life in them.
With the Throttle actuators, I have to see if the problem is with the electronics on the actuator. After a swap, i will get a better idea if the problem follows the electronics card OR the problem stays with same bank2 , which may complicate issues for me. I have to then check the cable that connects to the actuator.
This isn't very easy, since for each job, I have to take apart everything, do minor change like swap, and pack it all back together.
The error comes and goes as the wind and doesn't happen all the time. It shows up after several drive cycles. I have taken the car on long drives
and the car runs absolutely great. Its unclear how the intermittent failure happens. Even when car is standing still, untouched, i checked after a long drive and the error didn't happen. I let it sit for a while and then it shows up.
I have infinite patience lol.
Replacing the gears on failed actuator usually doesn't fix things. What happens is the throttle hunts around, because of the strippe gear, and ends up burning up a fet or two. Either replace the fets or the whole actuator and do the gears a preventive measure.
2010 E60 M5
2001 M Roadster
2001 E39 M5
This is Fixed ! On mine, the gears were wornout on bank2 and the electronics board had also failed (the MosFETs).
I found a used TA on ebay for $150, with worn out gears, and good electronics board. I swapped the electronics.
Now, i have new plastic gears on bank1 and bank2, and working electronics on bank2, original board on bank1.
Everything works like a charm.
Also, i replaced the two PCV valves in the bank of intake manifold. The Passenger side hose was dry, but the
driver side hose was soaking wet with oil at the intake manifold.
My oil consumption was around 650 for 1 quart. After replacement, i see oil consumption at 0.1 Q in last 260 miles.
One thing I have found with all of the BMW's I have is the connector connections don't always make a good contact including E60's after replacing the valve stem seals on my 550 almost every connector thru a code until I took them a part and put conductive grease of the terminals, problem solved! it might help, good habit to keep with these beast's
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming... -- WOW-- What a Ride!" [author unknown]
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