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Hi guys as the title states I'm in the process of the conversion. I have the sump transmission and engine mounts getting done while I'm repainting the engine bay. Quick question regarding abs pumps.can the 4cyl abs pump be made to work with the ls2? After searching other members with similar conversions I'm led to believe I need to use a pump from an e36 m3 ?
Regards James.
Last edited by Sr20Tz3; 12-17-2019 at 05:49 AM.
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Last edited by Sr20Tz3; 11-26-2019 at 08:45 PM.
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20191003_211222.jpg20191124_163502.jpg
Old motors our engine bay tidy up before the ls gets a new home . Sorrybfor pics not being in order
Heartbreaker
Very cool.
You’ll need to make custom headers, relocate the abs pump, and find a better shifter solution than an e36 swap.
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Nice looking car and good progress so far. Looking forward to watching.
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2002 BMW 525i - 6.6L LS Turbo Swap
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Thanks guys, abs pump has been relocated and most of the lines are done. Tomorrow should have finished the trans/engine mounts and headers 20191217_184053.jpg
Quick question to anyone who has done the ls conversion. Is the top banjo bolt on the steering rack the high pressure side that connects to the gm pump? Fair sure I'm correct just wanna make sure. Also after reading some threads I see people having too much play with there steering and having to put a restrictor inline with there hose is that correct?? Regards James.
Last edited by Sr20Tz3; 12-17-2019 at 03:26 AM.
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Yes, the top banjo bolt is the high-pressure supply from the PS pump. (At least on LHD models! I assume the basic design is the same for RHD...)
Yes, a flow restrictor is generally used. There is already one in your PS pump. However, you may wish to have more flow restriction. You can buy a restrictor from Turn One: https://www.turnone-steering.com/col...ering-fittings
Bimerok has a detailed description somewhere in his long thread.
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Thanks mate I'll look into itmore pics coming later om
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Good news the headers are done and coated aswell as the engine mounts and transmission mounts. Over the weekend I'll get the sump installed and hope to maybe get the motor in
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Haven't got much done this weekend i had a snapped exhaust manifold bolt and i then snapped the extractor and after removing the extractor and installing helicoils the bolt snapped again ��*♂️ anyways 2 days of headaches but got there in the end.
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Did you use a smaller extractor? I feel like you need to hog the bolt out to an inch of its life which allows you to use the bigger extractor.
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2002 BMW 525i - 6.6L LS Turbo Swap
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I used 2 different type of extractor started off with small and wouldn't budge so then I went to a bigger size and it snapped. You can't go to big because it then puts outwards pressure of the inside of the bolt wall .Originally Posted by Lantz
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Hi guys motor is finally in and i was hopping I could take a second from anyone that can possibly help with a wiring question.
I had a standalone loom made it came with relays and 7 wires to plug into the x20 connector
Wires are
Fuel
Ignition
Acc
Power.
Ground
Fans
Tacho
I'm just wondering how to wire this into the x20.
Im guessing the fuel would go to pin 13 green/ purple
Ignition to pin 18 black yellow . Accessories and power I'm not sure off ??
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A few comments/questions.
I don't think you ever told us what year your Z3 is, did you?
Do you know about the compilation of BMW manuals here: http://www.wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/ ? I found the electrical troubleshooting manual for my car very helpful.
The Z3 and e36 share many similarities, right? Here is a good place to start:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...6#post24774946
In my case (for a 1999 E36), the correspondence went:
Fuel: Fuel pump relay: X20#13
Ignition: (To starter motor) X20#18
Acc: Not sure what you want here, but X20#21 is hot in run/start, and X6031#8 is hot in run/start/accessory.
Power: I took it straight from fuse box.
Ground: Not in X20, just provided a good ground to chassis
Fans: X20#5 (But you have to think about Fan Hi vs. Fan Lo.)
Tacho: X20#20
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Really helpfull thank you very much i will get a start on this now. . And to answer your question its a 97 z3 it had a 2.8.
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Ok so i wired everything up as above and when i turn the key to ignition i can hear the relays click and the throttle body moving actuating . Should i also be hearing my fuel pump prime as i have not heard anything? I have not tried to turn the motor over . Cheers.
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Yes, I should think you could hear the fuel pump running.
On the end of your fuel rail, there should be a test valve. It is (IIRC) a Schraeder valve, with a screw-on cover (like used to inflate your tires). If you push the pintle of the valve in, you should get a squirt of fuel if it is pressurized.
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Yeh I got no fuel I'm just wondering if its because this standalone has its on relay for the fuel pump . But so does the bmw harness.
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See if this figure loads. I will add text later if it does:
Okay, the first one is a pdf, the second a jpg. Should show the same thing, so you can read either of them.
You have a 4-cylinder donor car, right? There is no 1997 manual at wedophones, but there are 1996 and 1998. This is from the 1998 manual, but the 1996 is the same, so I assume the 97 will be the same.
It looks like the fuel pump relay should be controlled by X20#13! When that pin is grounded, the relay should turn on. You could try just manually grounding that pin and check what you hear, and see if you get pressure on the rail.
1998 BMW Z3 - M Roadster Electrical Troubleshooting Manual_fuel_pump.pdf
1998 BMW Z3 - M Roadster Electrical Troubleshooting Manual_fuel_pump.jpg
Last edited by motorV8ed; 04-06-2020 at 04:46 PM.
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So in theory if i just pulled the fuel relay out then just jumped pin 85 and 87 when the i turn the key my other relay connected to the ECU will put out a 12v feed?
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I am sorry, I am not able to follow your thinking at all.
Generally, (there are a few exceptions), the ECU and/or DME of the LS and the BMW control relays by asserting ground. The relays have +12V fed to pin 86 of the relay, and when the ECU/DME grounds pin 85, then the relay is energized.
You might need to check with the manufacturer, but I would assume that, when you turn the key, your ECU asserts ground on the wire you called "fuel." You could certainly check that as a first step.
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I understand what your saying . I'm fairly certain my ECU asserts +12 to the relay pin 85 the fuel wire is on pin 87
Ground is pin 86 and +12 on pin 30. . Problem is I am not
getting any voltage to induce the coil . .
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Okay, I now realize that when you say "the relay," you are referring to a relay in the stand-alone harness set-up, right?
Let me assume I am correct for the moment. I think you are saying that pin 86 of that stand-alone relay is permanently grounded, and you can verify that with an ohmmeter. Is that correct so far?
You say you are "fairly certain" that the ECU asserts +12 to pin 85. Have you hooked up a voltmeter to it and cycled the ignition, looking for +12? (You may be working alone, making this difficult to see, but you could use a test lamp to check. I have been known to extend the wires of the voltmeter into the cabin for things like this.)
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Thanks for the reply mate.
Yes correct pin 86 is defenately grounded to the chassis
I am working alone the way im testing for 12v is having the voltmeter up against the windscreen. When I am turning the key theres defenately no 12v appearing for any duration of time.
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