I made my own low-rent Eurosport Kit

[Hova]

3d printed aluminum is garbage right now for actual structural applications. It's super brittle and fairly low strength compared to billet aluminum.

The best 3d printed metals are really heavy stuff like nickel based superalloys, and they're as expensive as they sound.

While yes, they aren't great for structural stuff, they are more than sufficient for this use case.

I have a lot of experience in fiber laser cutting and 3d printing with both FDM, resin, metals. There are definate limits to what you can do, but in this case I think you can make a pretty robust piece.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUp3oCGZOzk

[GG///M3]

awesome. Will you be doing the install yourself or a shop? I'm trying to put together a cost summary for a Z4 coupe or a Z3 coupe (non M edition).

Keith who helped designed the kit will be doing the install.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Def]

While yes, they aren't great for structural stuff, they are more than sufficient for this use case.

I have a lot of experience in fiber laser cutting and 3d printing with both FDM, resin, metals. There are definate limits to what you can do, but in this case I think you can make a pretty robust piece.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUp3oCGZOzk

I have more experience with additive Mfg and how it relates to structural integrity than most. I use it on rockets in my day job.

Anything you can make from sintered aluminum you can make from plastic for a small fraction of the cost. If you are really ok with a brittle 10 ksi ultimate material, there’s way way cheaper ways to make a part.

I’ve worked with many DLS/SLS metallic machines that cost >$20 mil as a stress analyst and that’s the limits of our current technology. The mechanical properties are absolute garbage. Like 1/3rd cast aluminum properties... same story with titanium.


Now high nickel alloys like Inconel 625/718, Haynes 282 etc - those lend themselves to printing very well from a Mechanical standpoint.

[cheim]

Oh man, we're talking about the fun stuff now. I also do stress for aero-rockety kinda stuff, and do a lot with 718 but mostly just weldments. We don't have any additive metal stuff.

I would love to revisit this with a laser scanner and machine most of the parts for the manifold rather than making it with cardboard and a tape measure. I'm sure I could refine the packaging and make things a lot cleaner, but here we are for round 1.

I'm getting some knock feedback, but mostly only on throttle tip-in. I'm limiting myself to 6psi while I play with the acceleration tables currently. I'm also having a hard time with cold start and idle. The car will fire right up and then die immediately if I don't give it some gas and hold it around 1500 rpm for 45 seconds or so. After that it wants to idle at about 550 rpm which is pretty unstable. I have the idle target at about 1200 when cold, so something is wrong. I have a restriction at the ICV inlet so I'm going to try to clean that up and see if that helps at all.

[cheim]

So overdue update, been chasing down lots of vacuum leaks, getting the tune dialed in. Things have been going pretty well, so I took it to a NASA event at high plains raceway and I melted the seal and coupler out of the snout of the blower.

Seems like the issue of oil pushing past the nose drive seal happens on the M122 as well. I didn't notice anything on the street but it seems like I need to find a place to drill another hole so that I can get a vent, sight glass and catch can installed. I checked the oil level before the weekend and it was fine, but the blower input shaft seal melted and most of the blower oil escaped through my hood louvers and on to my windshield. Not exactly confidence inspiring.

I'm ordering parts to go back to NA for the rest of the track season, but will mess around with this more over the winter.