I know. Another clutch thread.
Stock E36 S50 engine. Track only car. Transmission is getting replaced (current one won't stay in 4th). Need to do a quick job so I can finish the season, hopefully VIR in 2.5 weeks.
I was going to just do a Sachs OEM clutch/PP/TOB replacement while in there. But folks seem happy with gripforce stuff.
This seems too good to be true, $250 for a PP, single mass steel flywheel, and sprung clutch????
How much break-in do these need?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FX-STAGE-2-...6/163527156939
Wow they've gotten cheap. I run that. Pretty sure I had 100 miles on mine before I autocrossed it. Still kickin' 30k miles later. It's a very grabby and heavy clutch.
Hmmmm, thanks for the feedback. I don't like grabby.
I loved mine. I had the chromoly flywheel and 6 puck fxracing ebay setup. Installed it and then trailered straight to a DE. Abused the shit out of that clutch and loved every minute. Didnt slip it, just unloaded it and went like a bat outta hell.
My Gripforce is doing great. I can look up details later, but its the light aluminum flywheel with organic non-sprung disc. It actually feels and drives great. Very easy to modulate. I was amazed.
I did OEM TOB, stainless steel ball pivot, new pivot arm, all that as well.
Thanks all, great feedback. I'm going with the FX steel light(er) weight flywheel, organic sprung clutch, and HD PP. Basically, a stage 1 setup.
But, it sounds like the unsprung clutch plate is fine too?
I ran an unsprung disc AA heavy duty clutch on a 13 lb aluminum flywheel years ago and it was great. Normally you use sprung disc with a single mass flywheel, but unsprung can work fine. With a light flywheel, raising the idle speed in the tune makes engagement easier and reduces gearbox noise.
This is the kit i'm running:
https://gripforce.com/fx-racing-stag...3-e34-e36-e39/
I'm really happy with it. I was expecting a #becauseracecar clutch, but it's actually easier to drive than the old stock. I've driven through cities and stop and go traffic no prob. I'd highly recommend it. The quick revs are nice as well for heel toe'ing and such. The gearbox does rattle a bit when its good and hot, but it doesn't bother me for my use case. Still at stock idle speed.
Definitely use a quality throw out bearing if you use these kits, though.
Thanks! I was going to go with the steel (still lighter than OEM) flywheel, but your experience sounds enticing.
I just have PTSD from all of the 15 year old UUC LWFW threads on how aluminum flywheels explode harmonics!!@!
The stage 2 is grabby, but not 6-puck grabby. It's "why do I need this much clutch pressure for 190hp" grabby.
I ran a stage 2 gripforce clutch and flywheel in my 325 for about 8-10yrs of street, drag strip and track driving with no issues at all! It was a pretty stiff and grabby feel, but was easy to drive up on the trailer.
I now have one of the stage 3/4 6-puck unsprung clutches, and it's a prick to get on the trailer. So grabby and no give whatsoever, but pretty awesome out on the track and so far hasn't slipped with my new turbo build but I won't be tracking it for another couple of weeks, so will see how it holds up then.
I posted an update in my "build" thread, but for the record...
Gripforce sent 8.8 grade bolts for the flywheel, which require 105Nm torque per Bentley. 105Nm and M12 grade 8.8 bolts aren't meant for each other.
Ordered 10.9 bolts from McMaster.
Also, packaging of the kit was shoddy. PP and flywheel had some dings, all cosmetic but could have been bad. To gripforce's credit, they responded quickly and offered a few bucks refund.
Well, track day 3 of newly installed gripforce clutch, and last session of the day cut short due to pretty decent vibration. Some problem solving and poking around and:
IMG_20200607_133708.jpg
Found that near one of the "inspection" holes in the bottom of the trans/clutch housing. (The furry stuff, not the ink pen.)
Short break in, but I certainly didn't abuse this clutch for the first 2 sessions of use.
I'm thinking no more gripforce clutches for me, or is this really an anomaly? Now, my mind might change once I pull the transmission and see an install error, but, that's unlikely.
So....any recommendations for a good clutch/PP/flywheel under say, $500?
I would get it unmounted and the send gripforce an email. Consider the 6 pack clutch gripforce as it might be a bit more rugged....
Thanks, I'm considering that. Don't read good things about copper sintered and pulling car onto trailer, but hey, life.
Also, looks like gripforce.com now redirects to clutchmax.com.
FCP sells ACT clutches and flywheels. I could have a lifetime free replacement for my clutch/PP/flywheel for......$1000.
I wish there was an in between solution. Something between Chinese marketing (sintered kevlar race pack super stage 8 clutch kit for $200), and clutch kits from companies that have a usable web page ($1000).
Or you could have taken the awesome advice from 10/21/19 and went 6 puck from the get go hehe!
Ha!! There's truth in that.
Just had my Gripforce purchased in Dec come apart about 4 laps into the first track day. Disc completely delaminated. What did you end up going with?
Daniel
Last edited by DanR; 09-14-2020 at 09:10 PM.
I resurfaced the gripforce flywheel (for like, $40), and bought an ACT organic clutch / HD Pressure Plate.
Happy.
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