E36 M3 Starter Replacement WITHOUT INTAKE REMOVAL

[kachow]

After a annoying ordeal with my 1995 E36 M3, I decided to do a write up on how I replaced the starter as I was not able to find a method online that was either specific enough to be helpful or without removing the entire Intake manifold.

I had a horrific rattling noise, after replacing timing chain tensioners and rebuilding Vanos, I was lost and a poster let me know it was the starter solenoid stuck engaged.

Replacing the starter is an absolute P.I.T.A. no matter which method you choose. Make sure to check every other issue(fuses, wires, neutral switches, etc) before you embark on this journey.

Note on the new starter. Try to get a newer starter, post 1995 starters don't require the use of nuts and are easier to install.

Tools you absolutely need.

2 Foot Extension

1 Foot Extension

4-6 inch Extension

2 Swivel Sockets

E12 Torx Socket Do not use a 12 point socket instead of the E12. These bolts are extremely tight and will strip if their specified E socket is not used. The E12 needs to be a 3/8 inch socket.

Breaker Bar/Pipe

Jacks & Jackstands Or a Lift if you are so lucky.

Flathead Screwdriver

General Metric Socket set.


A friend


Optional but recommended:

Safety glasses

Dielectric grease

Torque Wrench


Step 1: Disconnect the battery. Remove the negative terminal and put it somewhere safe. This is the MOST important step. Starter wires are connected DIRECTLY to the battery and will deliver the full force of wrench welding, arm curling, wire melting power. Just disconnect it.


Step 2: Remove the intake midsection. It has two vacuum hoses off the bottom, it can be set aside. It is attached to the throttle body. Right down in there to the left of ABS and almost directly on top of the motor you will find your defective starter.

Step 3: Remove the wires off of the Solenoid. All three points are different sizes, it makes it impossible to mix them up. Each contact is sized for its own point on the starter.

Step 4: Jack up the car, make sure to give yourself as much room as you can. E36's are notoriously hard to jack up safely, use the pelican parts guide jacking up your e36. Be safe. Test, never go under a car on a jack alone.

Step 5: Get under the car and unbolt the exhaust from the bottom of the transmission, and remove two of the 10mm heat shielding nuts. Removing these will allow us to move the heat shielding out of the way of the transmission crossmember bolts.

Step 6: Get under the car and remove the transmission crossmember. This is located at the back of the transmission and has the Transmission mounts. Use the jack to support the transmission as you unbolt the 4 bolts. Two of them are slightly covered by the exhaust heat shielding but it can be pushed out of the way without damage.

Step 7: Once the crossmember is removed from the car, lower the jack and allow the transmission to hang. This will pull the motor back. Using a block of wood like a 2x4, use the jack to jack up the motor from the front side, in front of the motor mounts. The wood may be required to push the motor and not put all the strain on the steering rack. To prevent putting stress on the motor and mounts only jack it up a little bit. Not much more room is required to complete the repair.

Step 8: With the motor tipped back, there is now enough room for ratchets and extensions to go up and into the transmission. Construct your ratchet, Ratchet>2 Foot Extension>Swivel Socket>1 Foot Extension>Swivel Socket>4-6 inch Extension>E12.

Step 9: Push the socket mess through the back of the transmission, you will press and mess with the insulation a lot and I recommend glasses because stuff does fall down from it depending on its condition. Its like sawdust and the worst shit to have in your eyes. Your helper or partner is extremely useful from here until the end of the repair.

Step 10: There are two bolts in the transmission for the starter, one you can see the other is impossible to see, it has to be done almost completely by feel. This part is almost impossible to do by yourself. Pressure is needed to keep the swivel extension mess up where it needs to be.

Step 11: Pushing and slowly rotating the socket, have your helper guide the E12 Socket onto the Bolt. Once it is fully seated Double check that its seated, it will take a lot of force to turn. Get your bar/pipe and break that junk. My first one I thought I broke the socket. That bolt coming loose is violent As soon as it cracks, don't let up and let it fall. Keep rotating forever until you are 100% sure its all the way out. Getting the socket back onto the bolt is a long process you do not want to repeat.


Step 12: Once the bolts are gone there is a guide pin the starter at the top. If your starter just slides out, good for you, go on to the next step. To remove it when its stuck, you can pull back and fourth and get it a little bit loose and then spray some white lithium or some other lubricant onto the guide pin. Depending on how stuck it is, you may have to hammer it as well. I bent the guide pin but was able to straighten it and re-use it.
I have not found a replacement part for the guide pin, so don't loose it.


Step 13: Time for a water break, or a beer break. That was a lot of work and you've only got a little more to go!

Step 14: Take your new starter and place the guide pin in the top hole and place it in the motor. Once its in, thread the bolts as far in as they will go with your fingers (Note if you bought one of the pre 1996 starters with the thinner "ears" make sure you use the nuts on the other side of the bolts. Otherwise your starter will rip itself out of its mounts.)

Step 15: Tighten the bolts with the same method they were loosened. The bentley manual will surely have the torque values, I just tightened them until they were hecking tight.

Step 16: Reconnect the wires, I recommend contact protectant/dielectric grease because bad contacts cause half of these dead starters.

Step 17: Lower your engine, put your crossmember back up, re-attach the exhaust, and double check every wire is connected. Put your intake back together and fire her up!


Good luck y'all.

[crx7]

This worked great, got it off in about an hour, no busted knuckles nor bruises. I guess my arms are skinny.

I didn't use as long of extensions and it worked fine. Nuts weren't that hard to break, just used my 1/2" drive ratchet.

I was able to do this myself without a helper. I used my left hand to hold the socket on the bolt and my right to ratchet. Worked fine.