Blower fans and more - all fixed

[shogun]

just for info, the cable you find in section pedals , double check with your VIN https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=35_0135
spring clip is p/n 35401165393 , you will not find it in the E32 ETK, usually used for Z3 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...p/35401165393/ that came on the market in 1993. I found it back in 2011 quote:
I copied this from a 1999 post on RF because I just have seen the above pic on someones car: Here's the NHSTA site w/the info , This recall applies to all E34’s as far as I’m aware.
Go here: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars and click on the “Recalls” link under the Safety Problems and Issues column if you want to search further.
Report Date: July 15, 1999 02:38:25 AM NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 97V131000 Component: FUEL:THROTTLE LINKAGES AND CONTROL
Manufacturer: BAYERISCHE MOTOREN WERKE Potential Number of Units Affected: 410000
Year: 1995 Make: BMW Model: 530I Manufactured From: SEP 1993 To: DEC 1995 Year of Recall: '97 Type of Report: Vehicle
Summary: The cruise control and throttle cables are attached to the same throttle valve actuating lever at the throttle housing. It is possible that the plastic bushing on either cable could break due to environmental influences coupled with vibration. If the bushing breaks, the outer cable housing can separate from the bushing. In this case, during application of the throttle pedal without cruise control being engaged, the outer tube could catch on the edge of the broken bushing. This could cause the throttle valve to remain partially open. It his were to occur, the car might not decelerate as expected increasing the risk of a vehicle crash. Dealers will install a spring steel clip on the outer tube of each cable in the area of the adjusting screw and plastic bushing. The clip is designed to prevent the outer tube from dislodging from the bushing. Owner notification is expected to begin by the end of October 1997. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact BMW at 1-800-831-1117.
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Gale was selling them, but apparently he stopped it, as least that I can read from his website. http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/for_sale.htm
But the dealer should have them, under service. Part numbers are SIB 35 01 97 shows two part numbers, 35401165393 for straight http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/throttle_clip1.jpg http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/Throttle_clip2.jpg
and 35401165394 for 90 deg clip http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...l=62&lang=enUS Spring clip SERVICE 1 35401165394 $2.58
35401165393 only can find it here under service for Z3, not as normal part http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...l=67&lang=enUS Spring clip SERVICE 1 35401165393 $2.12
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But if you cable and the holders are new, you might not need a safety clip

[Hammer1963]

Shogun, do you suppose that the problem could be the sensor on this car? I was able to get the car running again a couple of days ago with no problem and very little to no issue starting it. I really didn't do anything to speak of on the throttle cable itself. I made a safety clip for it yesterday but there is still some leg or hesitation coming from the car. It does this even with the car parked and operating the throttle body by hand. Perhaps the sensor is slow to bring it from idle mode to open mode!? Maybe this is why it wouldn't start a few days ago because it seems like it flooded itself out. Stuck in a somewhat open mode? Your thoughts, please. I found a YouTube video yesterday where a guy was testing the sensor for resistance on an albeit , older car.

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And now I see your latest message to me which I didn't see yesterday

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And now I see your latest message to me which I didn't see yesterday

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It's funny Shogun, I researched the safety clips on a site I found and it said they do not fit my car. I made one anyhow because the cable before the bushing can move, a little.

[shogun]

I am not the M30 expert, the cable I mentioned just as one of the possible causes. Did you make a stomp test meanwhile? Any fault codes?
Cactuar mentioned: If it were my car, and I'm definitely no expert, but I would start by spraying some brake cleaner inside the intake, after removing the intake rubber boot. If the ignition is good it might make the car run for a second or two. Then you would know you have a fuel delivery issue.

[Hammer1963]

And that's just it, Shogun. The car is operating again, so its getting the fuel it needs to run and drive around now but still with leg and hesitation. I think I will research the sensor a little closer today. Check connection and then bring my multimeter into play and see what I come up with.

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And that's just it, Shogun. The car is operating again, so its getting the fuel it needs to run and drive around now but still with leg and hesitation. I think I will research the sensor a little closer today. Check connection and then bring my multimeter into play and see what I come up with. I didn't do the stomp test because I had read an earlier post that this may not work on cars exported to Japan.

[Hammer1963]

Hello all, hope your Easter weekend is great
Looking for some insight on some issues I’m having with my 1990 735i
First off, I’m still having the stumbling issues on acceleration with this car. Ive been through the fuel system. The pump and filter are fine. I had a problem with starting the car but nothing a new battery didn’t fix. Voltage output wasn’t there on the old battery. The car doesn’t start or idle as well as it used to. The idle is erratic at the start and all over the place. Ive changed the throttle position sensor but the sensor is an eBay used sensor so who knows on that one. Ive found a site that has new sensors but I’m not buying one until I’m certain this the problem. I’m also looking into the crankshaft sensor as apparently it can cause the same issues. I tested voltage yesterday on the plug in but the meter only showed 4.8 volts but I’m not certain I’m seeing the full voltage because the pin point is very small for my meter. Ive tried to find if there are any vacuum lines leaking but so far they seem good. Another issue I’m having is that when warming up the engine at about halfway warmed up, the car starts to smoke a lot. Once the engine is fully up to temperature though, the smoking goes away. The idle is still a little erratic but after driving the car for about 15 minutes, it runs smooth. I do have to adjust valves because of the ticking coming from the lifters but not sure that would have anything to do with the smoking. The cars emissions seems to be wonky. Anyhow, thats about it. Any help from past experience or insight would be much appreciated

[shogun]

test bad fuel pump and main relay http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1259287/
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/457838
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/212674/

check inside the E-box right side engine bay if you get full volts at the B+ post there snf on the fuel pump relay, DME relay, = same/similar like the battery has, http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e32/e32_90.pdf

In case e-box does not get full voltage, then your fusible link in pic 1 and 2 might have been cracked, that feeds power to the e-box http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/377728/

[Hammer1963]

Thanks Shogun.
Do you know what the e32's have for timing the engine? Is it a belt or a chain? I've been trying to find informational video on YouTube for replacing it, but not having much luck. Found a very good video for replacing the timing belt of a 92 325i but nothing for changing a timing chain on 1990 735i.

[shogun]

It is a chain. http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E3...mp_with_drive/
timing chain 11417577655
chain tensioner 11411705055
normally the chain lasts forever
unfortunately the links and pics here do not work anymore https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ement-write-up
http://www.exx.se/techinfo/timing/
google for bmw m30 timing chain replacement, or get a Bentley Repair manual for the E32

[Hammer1963]

Thanks Shogun
I'm going to take the car to a shop next week and have a pressure test done to see if the head gasket is ok. The smoking it does at warmup is very concerning to me. It stops smoking after full warmup and after I've driven it around for 10 minutes or so. If the head gasket test fails, I don't know what I'm going to do with this car. That's a big, expensive job to split the engine like that and frankly beyond my level. I'm not sure but the next stop for the car may be the auto wrecker. I don't know!!!!

[Hammer1963]

Shogun!
Just an update for you and a thank you for all the info. The head gasket is fine on the car. I decided to check all the spark plugs and found that cylinder 5 plug was clean and wet and not firing at all. I changed all the plugs. This immediately took care of the leg issue I had with the car. I then went into the head to do a valve adjustment to get rid of the ticking at the rocker arms when I discovered the main problem. The little snap ring that keeps the rocker arm in place over the intake valve was week and allowed the rocker to slide past the valve. Of course all this excess fuel was being burnt off in the exhaust causing the smoking issue. I saw that an e-clip was installed on cylinder 4, so it must have had the same problem. I installed a e-clip on 5 as well. Did the adjustment and the car runs like a dream.

[shogun]

nice, thanks for the feedback, did you also check the banjo bolts for Oil Spray Bar? http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/banjo.htm

[Hammer1963]

I did Shogun. One was a little loose, so I used blue lock tight on it and tightened it back up. I made sure not to go too tight though as to crush the oil bar.

[Cactuar]

Hammer can you explain a bit more where you installed the "e-clip" please?
I have some offset rockers and I wonder if I need the same thing. See here.

[Hammer1963]

Cactuar!
You will see on the shaft that there is a slotted area close to the lifter. Bmw put little 'snap rings' in these slots to keep the rockers in place. It seems that over time they weaken and the spring on the one side of the rocker is able to push it past. I could easily move the old ring back and forth but it didn't have enough strength to keep the rocker in place. I tried different e-clips to make sure it was strong enough to hold them. A previous owner had done this on cylinder 4 and it seems to work good.

[Hammer1963]

Cactuar, I just looked at your photos. The e-clips are all on the intake side of my car. The problem was extreme. The cam lob wasn't even touching the rocker arm.