No Start - Cranking - No Fuel - No Spark

[nc6carlover]

1985 e24 Manual trans.
Car is stored. Start car every week or other week for about a year now. Will drive up and down street occasionally. All has been fine until a week ago. This is where I am:
Battery fully charged, approx 13volts
there is Power to fuel pump relay - tested
there is Power to main relay - tested
there is No power to #11 fuse - tested at fuse box. Fuse is good.
there is No power to either fuel pump
Power is going to coil - tested
No spark from coil to spark plugs or distributor cap

Q: What prevents power from going to fuse #11? Based on diagram, at run/start the fuel pump relay gets power and sends it to rest of fuel delivery system.
Could it be the switch? Even if its reference sensors they would not prevent power from running thru the system.
Lets start there and I will check based on comments and give feed back. Thanks.

[ldk]

Try jumping the main and fuel pump relays (search forum for how to do this) or replace with known good ones.

[nc6carlover]

Thanks for info. I tried jumping the fuel pump relay and still could not get car to start. Still searching. I checked and the main relay is working as it is sending power to the fuel injectors. I have changed the fuel pump relay for other relays that I have with no success. I'm going to get a new fuel pump relay and see. Before the jump, the #15 fuse show zero volts. During the jump process I measured the fuse outlet and it showed 0.2 or 0.4 volts so that was a change but of course not enough to power the fuel pumps. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[ldk]

Do you have the electronic troubleshooting manual? http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/

There's also good troubleshooting advice here: http://www.hiperformancestore.com/Motronic.htm

Good luck.

[nc6carlover]

Thanks. I do have the manuals for both 85 and 86. Will check out the hiperformance one.

[DesktopDave]

I looked at the ETM, fuse 11 is between the fuel pump relay and the fuel pumps. DME pin 20 controls the fuel pump relay by grounding FP relay pin 85.

I'd be tempted to test the position and speed sensors. DME won't power up the pump if it doesn't see a good signal from the position sensor. It's a safety feature, believe it or not.

DME fires the coil on the ground side at DME pin 1, but only when it sees a start signal from the small black/yellow wire at the starter. Speaking of the start wire...check that it hasn't fallen off. It's the smallest wire on the starter solenoid, it's just a spade terminal and it's a fairly common problem.

[nc6carlover]

I looked at the ETM, fuse 11 is between the fuel pump relay and the fuel pumps. DME pin 20 controls the fuel pump relay by grounding FP relay pin 85.

I'd be tempted to test the position and speed sensors. DME won't power up the pump if it doesn't see a good signal from the position sensor. It's a safety feature, believe it or not.

DME fires the coil on the ground side at DME pin 1, but only when it sees a start signal from the small black/yellow wire at the starter. Speaking of the start wire...check that it hasn't fallen off. It's the smallest wire on the starter solenoid, it's just a spade terminal and it's a fairly common problem.

Thanks for the advice. Will recheck the sensors. Also, someone said of other board that it could be OBC immobilizer. Any thoughts?

[nc6carlover]

Update:

Based on info from hiperformancestore link in thread I did the following:
Tested speed and reference sensors. On both sensors this what I found:
Pins 1 and 2 = 1026 ohms
Pins 2 and 3 = no value
Pins 1 and 3 = no value

The info stated I should have a value from 864 to 1056 ohms for Pin 1 and 2. Looks like I'm good there.
Pins 1 and 3 along with Pins 2 and 3 I should have a minimum value of 100,000 ohms. Looks like that is not the case.

Could this mean that both sensors are bad? Please advise. Thanks.

[DesktopDave]

Those are OK in my humble opinion, both are good. The readings actually depend on the multimeter, they tend report high resistance/open circuit differently. Some will tell you open circuit, or OC, or something like that. Others will actually report very high numbers.

The OBC immo is easy to test. It's up under the dash kick panel. Pull that panel, look for the little black box, pull the plugs out. You have a late-model car, so use a wire jumper or bent paperclip to short the green wires together, try to start the car. The earlier cars used slightly different wiring according to Chris Wright's guide here at BigCoupe.

[nc6carlover]

Those are OK in my humble opinion, both are good. The readings actually depend on the multimeter, they tend report high resistance/open circuit differently. Some will tell you open circuit, or OC, or something like that. Others will actually report very high numbers.

The OBC immo is easy to test. It's up under the dash kick panel. Pull that panel, look for the little black box, pull the plugs out. You have a late-model car, so use a wire jumper or bent paperclip to short the green wires together, try to start the car. The earlier cars used slightly different wiring according to Chris Wright's guide here at BigCoupe.

Thanks, I will give that a shot and let you know what I find.

[DesktopDave]

Sounds good, keep us posted. You checked that the start signal wire is still plugged into the starter, right?

There's also the ignition switch to test out, but let's get all the easy stuff out of the way first.

[nc6carlover]

Yes, checked the yellow/blk wire attached to starter. Its on nice and tight. Will keep you updated.

[88m53453]

OBC anti theft system can do just what you are describing

[740ilDuke]

Im having the same issue. Car cranks like a champ, but zero fire. It has been in storage, but many new parts (plugs, wires, etc.) I'll try some of the above methods to see if I can scare up some luck. (1985 635csi)

[Silveracs]

Hey Scott, 740il Duke,

You should attend South East Shark Fest in TN this year right before Cody’s event. Use BigCoupeGroup for additional tech info for trouble shooting.

Peter-bmw635 on Bimmmerboard.