Single turbo 335is won’t start

[SLOWST335]

Hey guys I recently just finished up installing a single turbo kit on my 335is DCT. The car started with no tune and we drove it for about 4 min just until the car threw it self into neutral and shut off. When I come to start the car it give me an endless crank but no start. I recently loaded up a base map on the jb4 for a single turbo and nothing, replaced spark plugs and nothing. I checked the HPFP and it primes. I have no idea what happened and I’m hoping someone can spread some light.
The mods are:
Doc race single turbo kit 6870
Doc race intake manifold with port injection
Jb4
And much more

[Hova]

N54tech is going to be a better place to ask.

You're running a 6870? Jesus. Big boy.

Just jumping around here, but some ideas:

Check your JB4 wiring, is it all plugged in correctly? Check your coil harness. Also is your TPS plugged in?
You can bypass the JB4 and see if it starts without it.

Do you have INPA on your laptop? If not, get it and read codes/issues with the car.

https://www.bimmergeeks.net/downloads

Standard tools.

Long cranks on an N54 could be a sign of a failing high pressure fuel pump, but it likely is something else.

Have you ever run ethanol in your car? It's possible the stock fuel pump killed itself with ethanol, they tend to do that. Speaking of which, did you change the low pressure fuel pump? Could be wiring wrong, or the line could have disconnected itself.

Check ALL of your fuses.

F76 (20A) supplies power to the Crankshaft Sensor. F50 (10Amp fuse) provides power to the DME to operate the DME relay to "turn the rest of the DME on" by providing a ground to the electromagnet coil of K6300 (DME Relay). Finally, F78 (30A) carries power from K6300 to pins #2 & #3 of Connector X60003 at the DME (in the E-box under the hood).

(Doubtful) But maybe faulty IBS on your negative terminal in the trunk, see if you can bring up the voltage viewer on the dash. These cars will also not start if the voltage is too low.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGD9YW0Y1d0

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ording/xFntD9N

Check the power cables under the jump start hookup in the hood, they tend to get lose overtime, and your install could have knocked one of them loose.

MHD is a far better way to tune the 335 btw.

I'm on a 6266 and pushing around 700hp on my automatic (still alive).

Do you plan on upgrading your DCT clutches for the power levels?

[SLOWST335]

Man those are a lot of things I didn’t even think about thank you for sparking some light do u have a Instagram or anything? U seem to really know what ur talking about. The car does have a stage 3 low pressure fuel pump and in the future I plan on building the motor and upgrading the clutch

[Hova]

Man those are a lot of things I didn’t even think about thank you for sparking some light do u have a Instagram or anything? U seem to really know what ur talking about. The car does have a stage 3 low pressure fuel pump and in the future I plan on building the motor and upgrading the clutch

I'm on a stage 3 LPFP as well.

Very nice, those clutches seem to be pricey. It's been my only hesitation from swapping in a DCT.


I'll shoot you my contact via a PM.

[SLOWST335]

I remember my battery isn’t fully charged and dies when it’s not on a jump... funny thing is that the car cranks hard on a jump, but it still won’t turn on... does the battery have to be 100% charged to start?

[Hova]

I remember my battery isn’t fully charged and dies when it’s not on a jump... funny thing is that the car cranks hard on a jump, but it still won’t turn on... does the battery have to be 100% charged to start?

No, it will start fine as long as it's a relatively good charge and amperage. Your IBS on the negative terminal will monitor it and voltage.

Do you have INPA?