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Thread: Rescued a 2001 750IL with issues...

  1. #151
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    No, it just informs the EML to re-synchronize the throttle bodies (it goes through a very quick routine of resetting the end-stop positions and checking the output values)...
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


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  2. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    No, it just informs the EML to re-synchronize the throttle bodies (it goes through a very quick routine of resetting the end-stop positions and checking the output values)...
    How does this affect the other issues as referenced in the Word Document on my Google Drive? Please forgive me as I'm having difficulty connecting the dots between this procedure and getting the car out of Transmission Failsafe. Between Iris's brake issue suddenly coming up the same day as the exact same issue on my aunt's Cadillac, Onyx needing a new windshield so I can replace the GEM and finally restore the wipers back to working order (Windshield leak kills GEM which knocks out wipers, 4wd, etc), drowning in proofreading Japanese text in the Eunos Cosmo Workshop Manual, I'm not exactly able see the connection at the moment due to my focus being split five different ways.
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  3. #153
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    In theory if this resets the modules so they are able to talk again... and/or allows the idle control to work... it may allow the system to communicate thus avoiding a TSF.

    Sounds like a long shot... and pessimistic me says it won’t do much... but then again I also had a SAS fuse that would work with the single DME signal, blow with both, and then reset once the signals stopped. So reality may be different than expectations...


    2001 750iL DD74441
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  4. #154
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    New theory: messages "lost in translation"

    After having a chat with a former BMW technician, I had an idea about how the Canbus system works

    So I just had a brainstorm after re-reading the log chart:
    In 3 columns, it's producing almost identical errors. 5 instead of 3. That's with the DME1, EGS or ABS unplugged. And all of these 5 errors are reported on the IKE cluster. In those 3 cases (DME1, EGS or ABS unplugged), it reports no can message from DMER1. Otherwise, it reports back as "all good here" from DMER1

    DME1 and DME2 act as pass-throughs for the EGS and EML respectively. It got me thinking that the EGS and EML are fine, but the DMEs are garbling their messages? To borrow a quote from Robin Williams:

    EGS: My message is "Thou shall not kill"
    DME1: Got it "Thou shall not wear a kilt"

    The further it goes, the more the message becomes gibberish. Thou becomes Meow and so on. Eventually, that message becomes "Tiger Tutu is Bad Juju". Also, it stands to reason that the LCM is reporting Transmission Failsafe because it cannot receive clear messages from the EGS via DME1. So it defaults to Failsafe.
    I'm gonna try running a log with BOTH DMEs disconnected. Probably should do one with the LCM disabled by itself too.
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  5. #155
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    Think I finally cracked it!

    After making a complete diagram of the Canbus/D-Bus/K-Bus/I-Bus systems all together, I learned something. It is the IKE Cluster that ties all of them together. Without the cluster, the D-bus (Diagnostic Bus) can't talk to anything at all. This is why it errored out when I pulled the cluster last time.

    So I did some datalogging by disabling each canbus device and found something. This is a quick synopsis, I still have yet to compile datalogs and notes together

    With the ABS unit disconnected and a paperclip tapped into Pin 24 (Can H), I read the voltage on Can H vs battery voltage when on the charger. Then disabling the LEW by pulling Fuse F17 and taking a read. Put it back, then pulled Fuse F26 and read it again. No link between battery voltage and Can H, so that rules out the LEW backfeeding as the culprit.

    So I dug deeper into the Engine Electronics fuse block, doing a series of logs to disable the DMEs, EGS and EML all together, then selectively re-enable one at a time so it can only communicate with the IKE Cluster. During this, I discovered in one experiment that the car came out of Transmission Failsafe with DME1's Canbus connector (X60104) unplugged and Fuses F4 and F5 out. The LCM error for TFS cleared, so I put Fuse F4 back in and it stayed out of Failsafe. Put Fuse F5 back in and Marina went back into Failsafe.

    So I plugged the ABS unit back in and focused on the Electronics box. By pulling Fuse F2, I can clear Transmission Failsafe errors in the LCM. Also, Canbus communication errors became clearable and stayed gone on DME, EGS, etc.

    Mapped out everything Fuse F2 is linked to. DME1, EML, Injectors 1-6 and the passenger side engine sensors. Still have to compile all the logs together into a cohesive chart with the notes I took along the way, but this is a big milestone.

    Also, each time the EML was disabled by DME Canbus disable or fuse pull, the throttle bodies were clicking constantly. Anyone ever encounter this?

    Thanksgiving Update: Just finished compiling all 9 logs into a cohesive chart. Time for dinner, relax and food coma. Log Analysis tomorrow.
    Last edited by SilverIris; 11-26-2020 at 05:08 PM. Reason: more data
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  6. #156
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    So I compiled everything into a nice handy chart in the following link and it appears that the EML is the root of the issue. Everything is organized, tidy and all of the test conditions are clearly defined for easy comprehension:
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fJu...ew?usp=sharing

    I've been discussing the results above with a former BMW technician and he seems to agree. Just to make absolutely certain, I'll be testing the throttle bodies in INPA. Unfortunately, my K+DCAN cable disappeared months ago (cleaning/reorganizing...). Ordered another one on ebay for $17, it's supposed to arrive today. Pretty sure the old one will turn up sometime, but it's covered either way. Until it gets here, I'm making a much-deserved break.

    While doing all of this, I've been getting work done on my other project. Proofreading almost 900 pages of text in Japanese to prep it for translation was downright BRUTAL. The last 3 days was spent finishing up the final 100 pages before the new K+DCAN cable was set to arrive (today).

    And Iris needs a front brake job thanks to the passenger side caliper dragging. Pulled the wheel off and it looks pretty rusty. The rotors have rust flaking INSIDE the vent opening on the outer circumference and the caliper appears to be original too.

    New pads, rotors, slide pins (accidentally ordered 8... ) and two caliper rebuild kits are sitting in the garage right now. The only problem is that it's been too cold to pull it apart, especially since this area of the car is a complete unknown in terms of prior maintenance. Projects like this have a nasty habit of ballooning up into something bigger, more involved and more expensive, so due diligence says to play it safe and wait till the garage is clear. Going to get Marina straightened out and then deal with Iris.

    Thankfully, I can just drive Onyx for the time being.
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  7. #157
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    The Good, the Bad, the Ugly and the Annoying

    Got my INPA cable yesterday and booted up INPA. Dove into the E38 section and went straight for EML. Unable to Initialize...

    Swapped over to PA Soft (this program is amazing...) and got Error number 00. Pulled the rubber intake couplers off, the passenger side one (#13711433540) tearing in two spots after 20 years, and had my aunt give it some throttle input. Passenger side fidgeted around a bit, while the driver's side was completely unresponsive. Had a bit of gunk on the throttle plates, but they moved easily by hand. So it is not a mechanical issue in this manner.

    Conclusion: Dead EML is unable to send commands properly to throttle bodies, nor receive feedback.

    Anyone got a spare V12 EML? Part number is 12711430168 (9/1998 and up), superceeds 12141430167 (5/1997 - 8/1997) and is found on both E31 and E38 V12s.

    But on the plus side, I have dipstick tube parts on the way now.
    Last edited by SilverIris; 12-09-2020 at 06:22 PM. Reason: part numbers
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  8. #158
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    Parts arrived, mockup done, feeling the aster

    So the Dipstick Tube parts finally arrived. From China, they came into Chicago, then went to Ohio, vanished for a week and reappeared here today.

    4ft of -10AN braided stainless hose and some exhaust heat wrap for extra protection just in case.
    20210105_145226.jpg


    So I couldn't resist and did a quick mockup to see how it'll look

    On top, Front of Car is >>>
    20210105_160246.jpg
    Time to fabricate a bracket to mount the header permanently

    Bottom, Front of Car is >>>
    20210105_160550.jpg
    Add a hose clamp at the unused body mounting hole (top of picture)

    Looks like this crazy idea is gonna work.
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  9. #159
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    Avengers...Assemble! (Part 1)

    Got back in the garage today for assembly

    6" to the tube end, 7" to the header bracket
    20210109_162553.jpg

    Top and bottom marks
    20210109_162636.jpg

    Bottom mark
    20210109_162647.jpg

    23.75" for the reinforcement (24" is fine here)
    20210109_162715.jpg

    Header Wrap on all but the last 6"
    20210109_181851.jpg
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  10. #160
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    Age of Ultron (Part 2)

    Let the itching begin...I'm allergic to fiberglass.

    Drop Section Reinforcement taped on
    20210109_182957.jpg


    Heat Reflective Gold Tape on all but the top 6"
    20210109_192111.jpg


    Top End detail:
    20210109_192126.jpg

    Bottom End detail
    20210109_192132.jpg


    Ready for Install.
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  11. #161
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    Tony Stark's Workshop (Part 3, installed)

    Transmission end Overview. 1/8" gap between the tube and exhaust pipes at the crossover. 1" Hose clamp is a bit too small the double-wrapped tube, so it holds quite tightly. Drain cap is a standard 10AN fitting cap
    20210109_205521.jpg

    Easy mounting with a common 4-hole hardware store corner bracket an the existing heat shield stud with the factory nut. Tube is secured with a leftover M5 bolt (too long for this, go with 30mm long) and locknut so it can't vibrate loose.
    20210109_205529.jpg


    Tube Header installed, right in front of the Rear A/C Service Fitting. Bracket painted Navy Blue to match the car. Cap is a standard 10AN fitting cap. Dipstick will be coming later, but will be about 32" long. Bottom of the drop section is approximately level with the bottom of the pan.
    20210109_230605.jpg


    About a 1-2mm gap between the tube and exhaust manifolds, but that's enough for the gold tape and header wrap to do their job to protect the braided tube. The front could use securing to the subframe just as an extra precaution to maintain that air gap, but we'll see how motivated I am after tackling the transmission pan tomorrow
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  12. #162
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    Ready to rock

    Pan reassembled, ready for install. Banjo torqued to 35 ft.lbs, 10AN Drain Tee is gudentight and has sufficient clearance to slip a 10mm socket past for the pan bolts. Drain tee sits about 1mm below the protrusion and has mating marks for proper alignment

    Gasket's bolt holes are slightly undersized, so it holds the hardware (freshly cleaned/dried) quite well during install. Also discovered that setting the pan on a pair of jack stands makes it 10x easier to install. Took all of 10 minutes to snug every bolt with my wimpy drill (7 ft.lbs max torque...). 3 passes were made with a torque wrench in alternating patterns to tighten anything that worked loose from the gasket compressing, then confirmed 7 ft.lbs. It'll be re-checked tomorrow just to be certain. My 1/4" torque wrench has always been a little iffy, so a second opinion never hurts here.
    20210111_175054.jpg


    Had to secure the tube to the subframe at the front to maintain a gap with the exhaust flanges. A stainless steel zip-tie may not be the most elegant way, but sometimes the simplest solution works best. And it's a straight shot if it has to be removed for any reason.
    20210111_205716.jpg

    A final pass with the 1" and 1 1/8" wrenches tightened all the fittings, so we should be all set for filling it up after re-checking the pan tomorrow.
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  13. #163
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    Back on the ground now

    It's finally happening. Swept up all the oil-absorbed cat litter from underneath. A trip to Menards for 2 gallons of Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle and a 1 1/4" wrench (precaution, for the banjo bolt) and this happened...
    20210112_164328.jpg
    My cheap jug pump's tip fits easily in the 10an header, just as I wanted it to. What was one aggravating and annoying ended up being a joy to do.

    Pumped in 4 quarts, checking every few minutes for leaks at every junction, every bolt and on the entire perimeter of the pan. Not even a hint of a leak or drop anywhere. Gave it just shy of 6 quarts total, about as close as I could get to the correct 5.5L capacity. One final check, everything is clean and dry underneath and she finally got lowered back to the ground.

    Marina is getting evicted from the garage tomorrow afternoon, then I'm finally going to clean the whole garage. Time for a new toolbox too, mine is completely packed solid.
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  14. #164
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    EML: Extend My Loan... :D

    Well, Marina leaving the garage has been postponed. But it is a blessing in disguise because I've finally extracted the EML. Now my blood, sweat and tears are truly in the car...

    Yep, it's done for.
    20210114_201544.jpg


    Pretty sure it's beyond saving
    20210114_201553.jpg


    a little gunk in the connector itself
    20210114_201608.jpg


    Better shot of the connector, corrosion visible in the RH upper corner in this picture
    20210114_201614.jpg

    I'm gonna have to examine the harness side and clean it up most likely, but this unit is done for. No chance of saving it.

    Also, I fired up Marina earlier today to check for leaks. None while running, but one appeared at the bellhousing (viewed from underneath) as soon as I shut her off. Heater hoses or Heater Valve?

    1/15 Update:
    Got another EML on the way, found it in the UK. I got lucky and found an identical one on ebay for $300 shipped, but all of this got me thinking. Just to play it safe, I checked out both DMEs and the EGS/AGS. Found some corrosion on DME2's middle and middle-inward connector pins, so they're getting multiple baths in contact cleaner along with their respective harness connectors to ensure they're in proper order for reassembly once the new EML gets here. It's certainly possible that the corrosion was contributing to things going haywire, so cleanup definitely couldn't hurt.
    Last edited by SilverIris; 01-15-2021 at 04:19 PM. Reason: Additional information
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  15. #165
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    Motherf**ker

    So I got a new EML, got it hooked up and pulled out the laptop. Windows 7, previously working with no issues whatsoever.

    Now PA Soft refuses to connect. "Hardware Not Ready"

    Last time I used it, it worked fine with no issues as it always did. This time, error, error, error. Between the two, laptop sat on a shelf and the PA soft cable was sitting in a box.

    Reinstalled the driver 3 times, same error. Windows reports "Device Cannot Start (Code 10)", if it doesn't say "Hey, I don't know what this is..."

    All I'm seeing relevant is here:
    https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...rking.1011455/

    As for INPA/K+DCAN cable/software, it had never worked right but I gave it a try anyway. Like clockwork, it started freaking out, spewing error messages until I Ctrl+Alt+Delete killed it.


    (Pardon the language mods and admins, please do not edit due to failure diagnosis)
    Did this PA Soft cable take a shit?
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  16. #166
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    Small Update

    So I needed a break and did stuff. Reorganized and built a new tool box/workbench. Completely modular, metal flake blue cabinets, black drawers and over 20,000 cubic inches of usable storage space. One drawer is dedicated to diagnostic tools like the PA Soft cable, K+DCAN cable and so on.
    20210204_205907_e9eafb5a9cac1104da05db36bbecd77f3042847c.jpg

    With that done, the show must go on. Hooked up PA Soft to Iris and everything worked fine on the first try, even with a weak battery (from sitting). She's on the charger right now as a precaution, but now we know that Marina's ailment is in the Diagnostic Connector. Annoying, but at least the issue has been isolated and can be resolved without too much aggravation.
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  17. #167
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    Bork bork you are doing me a frighten

    After cleaning the Diagnostic Connector terminals with Contact Cleaner and a brush (Harbor Freight's Airbrush cleaning brush set works well for this), PA Soft and Marina started talking to each other again.

    Initial Read:
    20210206_160747.jpg

    So I cleared the errors
    20210206_160834.jpg

    And Re-read them
    20210206_160927.jpg

    Tried it again, clear and re-read
    20210206_161018.jpg

    And again
    20210206_161140.jpg
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  18. #168
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    Doing me a frighten part 2

    Lather, rinse and repeat once more...
    20210206_161250.jpg


    Apparently this car has been possessed by Pinocchio, it keeps changing its story every time. Error Number 54? What is broken here?
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  19. #169
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    After a dead battery false start from sitting for awhile (my fault entirely), Marina is over at Ress Motor Works now, to hopefully be diagnosed and straightened out in prompt order thanks to their experience. Saw an E38 740IL plus two E39s there, so we're definitely in the right place. Fingers crossed for good news and a simple, inexpensive diagnosis.
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  20. #170
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    So Evan Ress of Ress Motor Works at 724 N. Capitol Ave. Indianapolis, IN 46204 United States, telephone (317) 635-3201, destroyed Marina's DME and refused to diagnose the Canbus issue that he was hired to do.

    They sent me these two pictures. Cracked connector, handling the bare board with zero ESD precautions




    Melted IC from them "making sure" it was dead so they could sell a new DME with no known ETA.

    Anyone that's built computers know this can catch on fire as soon as it sees power.




    That was the factory DME, stamped with its DD74777 VIN and verified multiple times in PA Soft since getting the car 2 years ago


    Here's the connector when I touched it last in November:




    Also, he opened the transmission without authorization, claiming it was 3 quarts low... Yea, I documented the correct fill when I designed the DIY dipstick system for it. 5.5 Liters, go back a few pages see for yourself.

    Is this how you treat a disabled veteran in an effing wheelchair??? I can't wait for the shop's owner, his father and a fellow veteran Friedrich F Ress to find out.
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  21. #171
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    That's pretty poor service Travis! I would say though that your DME (if that is what is pictured) has suffered water damage quite severely - in fact it looks like the classic 'coolant up the thermostat harness' problem that afflicted so many 740i's!
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


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  22. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    That's pretty poor service Travis! I would say though that your DME (if that is what is pictured) has suffered water damage quite severely - in fact it looks like the classic 'coolant up the thermostat harness' problem that afflicted so many 740i's!
    Could you please elaborate on this? Perhaps Iris is a unicorn in that she's not experienced many of the "common issues" that come up on E38s. Yet Marina seems to be affected by most of them, even those more commonly associated with different engine options.

    So I put "What does EGS Signal Line Disturbed mean?" in Google and this came up:
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...fail-safe-mode

    Post 23 by RobertDenali:
    EGS signal line disturbed - trans in fail safe mode

    For future reference for anyone trying to resolve this issue it will be one of the following:

    1) low battery voltage
    2) faulty ignition switch
    3) faulty module on CAN bus
    4) faulty EGS also known as TCM
    5) faulty transmission solenoid(s)
    6) bad transmission
    7) faulty DME or DME wiring
    8) faulty instrument cluster
    9) faulty shifter switch
    10) faulty wire harness to transmission
    11) faulty CAN bus (hi or low wire I guess to include grounds). I put this last because you would have other issues with the bus or modules on the bus. You would have to monitor the signals on the CAN bus to confirm.

    Also consider all of the CAN bus wiring for the list above where applicable.


    Finally, a list of things to check. 1.Battery and 2.Ignition Switch are Known Good/New. 6.Transmission and 5.Solenoids are known good (verified before against specs). 8.IKE cluster is known good as well, 9.Shifter Switch is known good too, 10.EGS to Transmission Harness is good, I verified readings on all pins before, and I can rule out complete 11.canbus failure due to the system straightening out after removing the EKAT when it was backfeeding.

    So that leaves us with items 3. Bad canbus module and 7. bad DME or DME wiring. Item 4.bad EGS doesn't seem as likely, based on its long-term behavior since we got the car. However, another battery of tests, starting with one canbus module and then adding each back in the system one at a time should pin down the issue beyond doubt. Simply put, system will work untill the defective part is added back into the equation.
    Last edited by SilverIris; 05-07-2021 at 10:59 AM. Reason: additional information
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  23. #173
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  24. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    I'm not sure this is entirely related as the affected connector is DME2 X60203 (Corrosion). X60203 operates injectors 7-12, intake air temperature sensor, crankshaft sensor 2, and knock sensors 1, 3 and 4. If it were DME1, that's a different story as the thermostat related hardware is clearly on Pin 21 and 22, just like on a M62 V8. Also, none of the Engine Carrier Fuses were blown, ever.

    As for X20602 being cracked, there's no excuse at all.
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  25. #175
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    Apr 2020
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    625
    My Cars
    2000 740i/2003 530i
    Any updates on the shop? I'd be upset too if they fiddled around the car and made things worse than they already are.

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