Rescued a 2001 750IL with issues...

[SilverIris]

(pictures upside down warning here)

I cracked open the drain plug today and my ratchet instantly got stuck on the plug due to the exhaust being so close. So, Plan B came out, I loosely zip-tied the ratchet handle to the exhaust, then proceeded to make a big mess by pulling half of the pan bolts and letting it spill over the edge into a drain pan. A few hours later, it's nearing empty and I can retrieve my ratchet.

20200824_174853.jpg

So a few minutes ago (11:30PM), I remove the last of the pan bolts and carefully lower it onto the drain pan. The gasket slid sideways off the transmission case when it fell off.
20200824_231417.jpg
Throughout all of this, only one word came to mind and in the voice of Samuel L Jackson...

This is the same gasket that has constantly leaked since I put it on in November last year, with a perpetual drip on EVERY bolt head. But before I can make a new gasket for it, now I have a giant mess to clean up.

[SilverIris]

So I tidied things up this morning, dove under the car once again and took some measurements on each solenoid. Each connector was backprobed using some extra GM Metripack 150 terminals, with some readings jumping around a bit before settling on the following numbers.

Data as follows, arranged left to right as seen on the car with specifications in parentheses. For this post, +/- means Plus or Minus

EDS1: 4.8 ohms (5.9 +/-0.5 ohms) [PA Soft reports error]
EDS4: 7.0 ohms (6.4 +/-0.5 ohms)
EDS3: 6.4 ohms (6.4 +/-0.5 ohms) [PA Soft reports error]
EDS2: 6.6 ohms (6.4 +/-0.5 ohms) [PA Soft reports error]
EDS5: 6.7 ohms (6.4 +/-0.5 ohms)
MV1: 26.3 ohms (28 +/-2 ohms)
MV2: 26.8 ohms (28 +/-2 ohms) [PA Soft reports error]
MV3: 26.7 ohms (28 +/-2 ohms)

From this test, EDS1 is definitely bad but EDS2, EDS3 and MV2 seem to be fine as far as I can tell. PA Soft reports errors on these three items when they appear to be within specification and it doesn't make sense. None of the usual suspects, such as corrosion or damaged wiring, are present which makes it even more baffling. The EGS/AGS ground locations on the RH strut tower are in flawless condition, same with both of the battery grounds in the trunk. So with that said, it can't be a primary grounding issue ala RX-7 3800rpm Hesitation

Suggestions? I'm all ears.

[SilverIris]

Happy Caturday everyone.

Since my last post, I've been logging some data to hopefully pin down this strange behavior

From left to right are:
EDS1, EDS4, EDS3, EDS2, EDS5, MV1, MV2, MV3, as seen in the car.
Specs are as follows from NewTIS:
EDS1 is 5.9 +/- 0.5, EDS 2/3/4/5 are 6.4 +/- 0.5, MV1/2/3 are 28 +/-2. All measurements are in Ohms

Backprobing the solenoid connectors, I got the following readings
EDS1 4.8, 7.0, 6.4, 6.6, 6.7, MV1 26.3, 26.8, 26.7

Pulled the connectors off and tested directly on the solenoid terminals to get these figures:
EDS1 5.3, 6.3, 6.3, 6.2, 6.3, MV1 24.1, 24.5, 23.9

What's weird is the resistance on EDS1 is HIGHER with it disconnected than with it plugged in, opposite the expected behavior that the other solenoids produced (presumably due to a slightly poor connection on each). This would imply a wiring short between EDS1 power and signal.

Also weird is that it doesn't match the wiring diagrams
here: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ator-1/ipnZfrw
or here: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ontrol/ZkiHb3d

The exact same area on the same car is wired two different ways, and NEITHER of them match mine! ALL of the solenoids' power wires are linked together (Violet wire) on this 750IL and there are no signs it has been altered.

Per a suggestion from Timm the Enchanter, I tested for continuity between signal wires. Infinite Ohms, as it should be. Perhaps it's a voltage supply issue? Going to undo the EGS X70004 connector and test from there next.


BONUS:
While I was testing things from underneath, I took a close look at the solenoid connectors. They're made by TE Connectivity and use Faston 187 terminals.

AMP 928673 Housing: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-92...e=header-match
Faston 187 Terminal: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1217149-1.html

They're $0.50 and $0.15 respectively from Digikey, Mouser and so on.

[SilverIris]

So I got some more data from the EGS Connector X70004 after plugging all of the solenoids back into the harness. Measurements are in Ohms. Test was done using a regular multimeter and two paperclips to probe form the EGS side of the connector. Power for EDS2, EDS3 and EDS5 are from Pin 11, the rest are from Pin 21. There was Infinite Ohms between Pin 11 and 21 (both solenoid power pins). I measured from these power pins to their respective signal pins

From left to right are:
EDS1, EDS4, EDS3, EDS2, EDS5, MV1, MV2, MV3, as seen in the car.
For comparison, here are the measurements at the solenoids themselves:
EDS1 5.3, 6.3, 6.3, 6.2, 6.3, MV1 24.1, 24.5, 23.9

And the specs from NewTIS:
EDS1 is 5.9 +/- 0.5, EDS 2/3/4/5 are 6.4 +/- 0.5, MV1/2/3 are 28 +/-2.

At X70004 EGS Connector:
EDS1 6.5, 7.3, 7.3, 7.4, 7.8, MV1 27.9, 28.3, 27.8

Per a suggestion from Timm, I also measured resistance between signal pins and this is what came up. All other combinations of EDS and MV pins produced Infinite Ohms (no connection).
EDS1 - EDS4: 13.2
EDS1 - MV1: 33.7
EDS1 - MV2: 34.2
EDS1 - MV3: 33.7

EDS2 - EDS3: 14.0
EDS2 - EDS5: 14.6

EDS3 - EDS5: 14.4

EDS4 - MV1: 34.5
EDS4 - MV2: 34.9
EDS4 - MV3: 34.5


So I hooked up the laptop and scanned it in PA Soft BMW-Scanner. No solenoid errors reported now, so I fired it up. Transmission Failsafe Program appeared on the cluster. Re-scanned the EGS, no solenoid errors reported. Cleared the errors and re-scanned again. Same result. Shut it off, re-started and TFS appears again. Re-scanned again with PA Soft, nothing reported. Total time it was running was less than a minute.

But Transmission Failsafe Program DOESN'T appear with the key in the ON position...

This makes no sense whatsoever, because the car has consistently reported EDS1 and 3 other solenoids as being troublesome (see above), hence me pulling the pan and checking with the multimeter.

So my question to Timm and Sreten is:
When is Failsafe NOT Failsafe?

[CPHES]

Batteries are fully charged?

[SilverIris]

Batteries are fully charged?

Had a brainstorm and came to the same conclusion earlier today. Checked their voltage, ~12.1v each. I'm reasonably certain that the lower battery was over 0.7v lower than the top battery, making the Disconnect Switch go into Charge Leveling Mode, which pulled them both down. The lower battery isn't exactly in great shape as it was the better of the two when we got the car last year. Still, better in this case meant "the most appealing turd". Wouldn't surprise me if it needs replaced now.

Anyway, theory is that the sketchy voltage on the lower battery was making the car tweak out and go into TFS because the car kept trying to "save" it using the Disconnect Switch (making the top battery voltage bottom out), but not long enough to trigger error codes on any specific components, only enough for it to think there's a problem then forget to look for what it is.

In other words: It has ADD

So I let them have a nice long charge at 10 amps and both are sitting at 12.77v now and all buttoned back up. I'll dig into it more tomorrow. As for the pan gasket, I'm going oldschool and making one from scratch like I did on Iris. Life is too short to spend another week doing the job a THIRD time.

[SilverIris]

I got the following errors to appear as well, the most relevant ones are in bold:

EGS -> 84/C1 - CAN Timeout EML
81/D1 - CAN Timeout DME
61/C1 - V-Batt. supply T. 30

LEW -> 0C/A3 - CAN-Bus off
09/A3 - No CAN message (ASC)
01/03 - Terminal 30 defective
0B/A1 - Wrong LWS-ID

IKE -> FA/C4 - No CAN message (EML1)
F9/C4 - No CAN message (DMEL4)
8D/D0 - EGS signal line disturbed

Looks like my theory was right. The weak Starter Battery drug down the System Battery and ruined it. So now it needs BOTH batteries. Plus, my charger is failing too. Even on the 10A setting, it couldn't hold its current well enough to "stop the bleeding"

Also kept hearing this oddly quiet "siren" the whole time. Thoughts on it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oyl93IshtbQ


This sucks.

[Timm]

terminal 30 defective usually indicates an ignition switch problem: http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/244045

[SilverIris]

terminal 30 defective usually indicates an ignition switch problem: http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/244045

It seems unlikely considering Iris is a few months older and has a bit more mileage, 160k vs 134k on Marina, but has experienced no misbehaving whatsoever in this manner. Also, Terminal 30 typically refers to Fused Constant 12v, while Terminal 15 is Ignition-Switched 12v on most European wiring diagrams. So I'm a tad confused about why you would think it is related to the ignition switch. Could you please elaborate on this?

Just to rule out the possibility of error, I ordered a new charger to eliminate a few more variables from the equation. Found a fantastic deal on Ebay for an AGM charger with Repair/De-sulphate mode for $14 shipped. Since the Starter Battery was a big question mark from Day 1, this will answer that question beyond reasonable doubt.

As for the System Battery, it is less than six months old, is a Deka Intimidator AGM battery, and has mostly been sitting in the trunk with the cables disconnected. Seems VERY unlikely it would crap out, considering I had an identical one in my 3-Rotor RX-7 and ran it dead at least 50 times, yet it kept coming back for more abuse.

We'll find out more tomorrow when the charger arrives

9/3/2020 Update: Got the charger this morning, the bottom Starter Battery is first in line for it. Disconnected both batteries from the car, hooked up the charger on the bottom battery at 2:30pm and put it in Repair Mode. Starting voltage for the battery is 12.7v. Since this charger has a max output of 5A, I'm going to leave it on there for 24 hours. That should be enough time to work its magic.

[SilverIris]

So I de-sulphated both batteries and they're both healthy as a horse. 12.75v and 12.8v for top and bottom respectively. This $14 charger has certainly proven itself a good investment. So I booted up PA Soft and took another log. Even without a charger connected, Marina never dropped below 12.3v. I can safely say that both batteries are known good now.

Right after getting the log, I pulled one solenoid connector off and connected the multimeter to it on the 12v+ wire (Purple/violet). With the Key ON, it jumped to ~8.4v for a split second, then dropped back to 0 (Key on Self Test, completely normal). Most likely, it hit 12v during this and the meter just didn't catch it in time. Again, completely normal.

Here's the log:
# ERRORS IN UNITS
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unit BMWTNR HW SW-FSW ERRORS / SHADOW-MEMORY
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DME -> 7.509.322 0E 51 no errors / 4 errors
DME2 -> 7.509.322 0E 51 no errors / 7 errors
EGS -> 7.507.426 2C 09 3 errors
EWS -> 6.905.670 03 08 1 error
ABS -> 6.753.869 52 03 3 errors
LEW -> 1.094.143 07 02 4 errors
A/C -> 6.901.314 11 17 no errors
SRS -> 6.900.727 40 30 3 errors
IKE -> 6.942.178 25 21 3 errors
LCM -> 8.386.208 01 41 no errors / 2 errors
ZKE -> 6.913.524 21 23 5 errors / 2 errors
MFL -> 0.000.000 01 08 no data
PDC -> 6.916.406 01 15 no errors
AIC -> 6.904.012 04 14 no errors
RAD -> 6.902.718 45 42 no errors
TEL -> 0.025.708 30 03 no errors
SZM -> 8.380.337 50 F8 1 error / no errors
NAV -> 6.915.035 11 63 no errors / 3 errors
VMGP -> 6.915.035 11 63 no data
BMBT -> 6.913.387 43 42 3 errors
DSP -> 6.905.119 03 04 no errors
SES -> 6.913.352 08 05 no errors
SHD -> 6.910.472 05 27 no errors
LRA -> 8.375.964 D1 05 no errors / 1 error
EML -> 1.430.168 40 23 6 errors
EDC -> GN: 02 00 00 7 errors


# ERRORS DETAILS - DTC(hex)/PARAM(hex)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DME -> Shadow-memory:
6C/42 - Permanent supply
D9/54 - CAN-Timeout EML
D7/54 - CAN-Timeout DME
13/54 - CAN-Timeout EKAT

DME2 -> Shadow-memory:
6C/42 - Permanent supply
D9/54 - CAN-Timeout EML
EC/54 - CAN-Timeout EGS
D8/44 - CAN-Timeout ASC/DSC
D7/54 - CAN-Timeout DME
13/54 - CAN-Timeout EKAT
06/54 - CAN-Timeout IKE

EGS -> 84/C1 - CAN Timeout EML
81/D1 - CAN Timeout DME
61/C1 - V-Batt. supply T. 30

EWS -> 0F/FF - Power on reset

ABS -> 17/FF - Coding Error
61/FF - Steering angle adjustment necessary
1E/FE - Wheel speed sensor rear left, open circuit

LEW -> 0C/A3 - CAN-Bus off
09/A3 - No CAN message (ASC)
01/03 - Terminal 30 defective
0B/A1 - Wrong LWS-ID

SRS -> 03/C0 - Belt tensioner, front passenger
15/A0 - Seat belt buckle, front passenger
1A/90 - Seat occupancy recognition 1 (SBE1)

IKE -> FA/C4 - No CAN message (EML1)
F9/C4 - No CAN message (DMEL4)
8D/D0 - EGS signal line disturbed

LCM -> Shadow-memory:
59/21 - Transmission failsafe program
5F/21 - Check coolant level

ZKE -> A4/21 - Mirror, potentiometer vertical or cable, driver's door
04/01 - Terminal R wire on the GM III
DC/02 - Steering column angle: communication error
31/21 - Wiper motor blocked, reset contact, wiper relay
40/06 - Interior lights, open circuit
Shadow-memory:
93/3F - Power up from the GM III
83/21 - DWA-Alarm: door contact, driver's door

SZM -> 06/3F - Temperature sensor Seat heating right, Open circuit

BMBT -> 01/1F - Watchdog reset
03/07 - Radio status telegram timeout
16/01 - EEPROM Checksum does not match with programmed value

LRA -> Shadow-memory:
00/00 - Terminal 30

EML -> 53/B8 - CAN not active
87/B8 - Supervising error in initializing
00/00 - Error number 00
00/00 - Error number 00
00/00 - Error number 00
00/00 - Error number 00

EDC -> 00/00 - Steering angle error: difference of sensor angle too large
61/00 - Valve error front: open circuit of both valve wires Middle
70/00 - Error number 70
75/00 - Error number 75
81/00 - Valve error rear: open circuit of both valve wires Middle
90/00 - Error number 90
95/00 - Error number 95

With all of that said, would it be the ignition switch as Timm suggested? What would be the supporting evidence to this too?
The previous owner tried several things and gave up, so I would imagine he put a bit of wear on the ignition switch while doing so. Still, it seems odd considering Iris is of similar age and has not experienced any of these symptoms.

Thoughts on it? I'd like to hear some ideas before throwing parts and money at it willy-nilly.

[racer2086]

Stupid question...When you started the car and got Transfailsafe, did you have the pan on with fluid in it?

[SilverIris]

Stupid question...When you started the car and got Transfailsafe, did you have the pan on with fluid in it?

Even before starting the car, it was producing the same set of errors regarding Trans FailSafe. Pan was off, no fluid and has been during this whole diagnostic process. Since Timm suggested the ignition switch may be the source of the issue as feeds power to the EGS/AGS and solenoids, it got me wondering what else is fed through it too. So for the past couple days, I've been mapping the entire power system. Funny, every Mazda manual I've ever read has it spelled out in a simple, easy-to-follow manner. Even Mazda's juggernaut, the Eunos Cosmo 20B Type E-CCS, is a breeze to trace circuits on.

Turns out the Ignition Switch is a rather complex piece of hardware with several inputs and more than one output per input as well.

Fuse F111 goes into the Ignition Switch on Pin 6 and 7.
Pin 6 (Circuit "RU", hot in ACC and Run) outputs on Pin 2, which feeds Fuses F40 through F48.
Pin 7 (Circuit "15U3", hot in Run and Start) goes out on Pin 3 to feed Fuses F18 through F24, plus F73.
Pin 7 is also the input for Circuit 15U4 (hot in Run and Start too) which exits on Pin 10, feeding Fuse F36

There's also an input from Fuse F114 on Pin 5 which feeds Pin 8 (Circuit "50", hot in Start) and goes straight to the DMEs for Engine Start Request.
It also outputs to Pin 1 (Circuit 15U1, hot in Run and Start), running straight to the Unloader Relay

And last but not least, the Ignition Switch also has an independent ground feed too. Pin 11, which connects to Pin 4 (in ACC, Run and Start) feeds a ground to the Battery Disconnect Switch pin 12.

Total of 5 Inputs, 6 Outputs. And each of the outputs is working a lot harder than I would personally feel comfortable with. Tallying up the circuits by their fuse ratings, F111 (rated for 50A) is putting 52.5A through the switch just on Pin 6. Add another 45A for Pin 7. Fuse F114 (rated for 50A) isn't passing much through the switch, only enough to feed the immobilizer, the DMEs and trigger the Unloader Relay. Probably only passes about 10-15A. Realistically, it is probably seeing about 60A put through it. Quite a bit for the most-used switch in the car over 20 years.

For perspective, the headlight dimmer/multi-function switch in my Expedition failed right before 20 years. Did an autopsy on it and found the internal headlight contacts were heavily charred, their plastic base was burnt and there was no chance of it working properly again. This switch was only passing 10A. As soon as I got a new one from Rock Auto, I retrofitted relays to each of the applicable headlight circuits to prevent failure of this degree again.

Now I can see why the ignition switch could be producing all of this mayhem.

[tominizer]

Awesome thread. A lot of it well over my head. Going through a 750 of my own but not where near the problems you are tackling. However, wanted to ask....... that scanner you are using caught my attention. I was "told" that for these vintage machines, you need to use the old BMW GT1 scanner/mushroom connector under the hood to be able to read and clear all the codes for both DME's. Modern day scanners will not read both DME's. Is that correct or complete hog-wash? Can you shed any light on this for me.

Following !!

[CPHES]

Yes you need to use the under hood 20 pin connector to get to the DME’s. For any cars with the 20 pin, you should use that. You can get basic codes via the OBD II port, but not all functions.

[racer2086]

You can damage the transmission running it with no fluid.

You will get transfailsafe if you run it in gear without fluid. It won't be able to turn the output shaft, and so input vs output shaft speed differences will trip the transfailsafe.

[SilverIris]

You can damage the transmission running it with no fluid.

You will get transfailsafe if you run it in gear without fluid. It won't be able to turn the output shaft, and so input vs output shaft speed differences will trip the transfailsafe.

I understand that, which is why I only did so long enough (under a minute) to get a log in PA Soft. Found another way right afterwards by engaging/disengaging the seat belt in its buckle a few times to clear the seat belt message in the cluster so TFS can appear.

Your reasoning is quite sound, as that would logically produce an input speed/output speed mismatch fault code in the EGS. What it is currently doing per previous post produces no fault codes related to speed sensors.

With that said, let's recap:
With the ignition on (engine NOT running), TFS appears with a set of fault codes
With the ignition on (engine running), TFS appears with the same fault codes.

The Transmission's pump operates only with the engine running, so it cannot be related to fluid pressure. Barring electrical issues which have their own fault codes, this rules out EDS1.
Because it cannot build pressure, it can't engage any of the clutches. This rules out the Rest of the Solenoids the same way as EDS1.
As it does not produce fault codes for speed-related matters, we can rule out Input Speed and Output Speed Sensors.
Since it can't warm up (requires engine running for ~15 minutes), Temperature Sensor is ruled out as well.

Reported Fault Codes:
EGS -> 61/C1 - V-Batt. supply T. 30
IKE -> 8D/D0 - EGS signal line disturbed
LCM -> 59/21 - Transmission failsafe program

All of these fault codes stay present and will not clear. Even a Battery Nap won't do it.

[SilverIris]

So I was futzing around on NewTIS and looked at the Unloader Relay. Triggered by the Ignition Switch, Fed by Under Seat Fuse and feeds the F1-F5 Engine Fuse block where the EGS gets power. Good thing I put all the fuse/ignition switch data together in a handy chart a few days ago...

On a hunch, I swapped in a known good relay from Onyx with an relay socket and pigtail to adapt it to the funky BMW pinout (86 swapped with 30). Booted up PA Soft and took a read.

This error is now gone:
EGS -> 61/C1 - V-Batt. supply T. 30.

This one appeared, but cleared and is staying gone:
01/06 - Pressure controller EDS 1

We're definitely making progress now. The Unloader relay read ~80 ohms on the coil. Standard 40A relays read ~40 ohms. So we have a bad relay here. Cool, a cheap fix.

But these two errors are staying put:
IKE -> 8D/D0 - EGS signal line disturbed
LCM -> Shadow-memory:
59/21 - Transmission failsafe program

Since the System Battery was a bit weak (~12.0v), it's currently on the charger as a precaution with the cables disconnected. That should rule out any voltage-induced errors. I'll be back with an update once it's fully charged again

More Data:
Right after posting this, I found this thread with the same "EGS signal line disturbed" error:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...fail-safe-mode

In it, Timm suggested the Ignition Switch as the most common culprit. That would make perfect sense considering how a relay with 40 ohms on the coil is staying awake, but one with 80 ohms is acting up. It's working just enough to close the relay's contacts, but not enough to keep them solidly in place.

Got a feeling that when I pull the switch, it will show proper continuity but upon disassembly, bad stuff will be in it. I documented the same type of failure in detail on Onyx's headlight dimmer/multi-function switch in 2016 here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...0-pickups.html

[SilverIris]

Got a new BMW ignition switch from ECS Tuning a couple days ago while finishing up another project.

So I got motivated and disassembled the column earlier. It was covered in white corrosion on the aluminum bits, and on part of the ignition switch. Some of it flaked off when removing the ignition switch. So I popped in the new one and...nothing changed.

Just on a whim, I did an autopsy on the old ignition switch (made by Valeo, BMW part though). Nothing looked out of order on it that I could tell at a glance, so no logical need to do continuity/voltage drop testing.

During reassembly, all of the exterior lights randomly turned on despite the switch being OFF. A battery nap straightened it out though.

Just to hedge my bet, I took a log before and after replacing the ignition switch.

Here's what came up before touching the switch:
EGS -> 84/C1 - CAN Timeout EML
81/D1 - CAN Timeout DME
61/C1 - V-Batt. supply T. 30 (Clearable)
IKE -> F9/C4 - No CAN message (DMEL4)
8D/D0 - EGS signal line disturbed
FA/C4 - No CAN message (EML1)
LCM -> Shadow-memory:
59/21 - Transmission failsafe program
5F/21 - Check coolant level

The log I took afterwards shows the EXACT same errors. Car is STILL stuck in Transmission Failsafe.

Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?

[TheAngryBear]

Got a new BMW ignition switch from ECS Tuning a couple days ago while finishing up another project.

So I got motivated and disassembled the column earlier. It was covered in white corrosion on the aluminum bits, and on part of the ignition switch. Some of it flaked off when removing the ignition switch. So I popped in the new one and...nothing changed.

Just on a whim, I did an autopsy on the old ignition switch (made by Valeo, BMW part though). Nothing looked out of order on it that I could tell at a glance, so no logical need to do continuity/voltage drop testing.

During reassembly, all of the exterior lights randomly turned on despite the switch being OFF. A battery nap straightened it out though.

Just to hedge my bet, I took a log before and after replacing the ignition switch.

Here's what came up before touching the switch:
EGS -> 84/C1 - CAN Timeout EML
81/D1 - CAN Timeout DME
61/C1 - V-Batt. supply T. 30 (Clearable)
IKE -> F9/C4 - No CAN message (DMEL4)
8D/D0 - EGS signal line disturbed
FA/C4 - No CAN message (EML1)
LCM -> Shadow-memory:
59/21 - Transmission failsafe program
5F/21 - Check coolant level

The log I took afterwards shows the EXACT same errors. Car is STILL stuck in Transmission Failsafe.

Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?

Weird problem...

I suspect you CAN or CAN elements. Looks like a timeout there on a few and a non-signal on the IKE? If the CAN isn’t working then large issues.

Try taking out the IKE and redoing to see if there is an issue there. Otherwise may need to check the harness.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ctions/YNFOudX

http://www.thebimmerpub.com/pdf/bmw-...-bmwtd-can.pdf

Only idea I have...


2001 750iL DD74441
E65 fan & clutch, E65 headrests, Front First Aid Kit, Ultimate Cup holder

2005 X5 4.8is LE82680
Stock

RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

[SilverIris]

Weird problem...

I suspect you CAN or CAN elements. Looks like a timeout there on a few and a non-signal on the IKE? If the CAN isn’t working then large issues.

Try taking out the IKE and redoing to see if there is an issue there. Otherwise may need to check the harness.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ctions/YNFOudX

http://www.thebimmerpub.com/pdf/bmw-...-bmwtd-can.pdf

Only idea I have...

I think you're missing something important here. Since the engine IS NOT RUNNING, there are no messages needing to be passed via Canbus, hence it times out. Not an issue here.

IKE -> F9/C4 - No CAN message (DMEL4)
8D/D0 - EGS signal line disturbed
FA/C4 - No CAN message (EML1)

LCM -> Shadow-memory:
59/21 - Transmission failsafe program
5F/21 - Check coolant level

How do you erase Shadow Memory?

[a777fan]

You ran the car without trans oil in the tranny, correct? If so, that was a no-no.

Perhaps this is what has led to a permanent ‘Trans-Failsafe’?

[TheAngryBear]

Shadow codes are stored in the long term memory. Some do not erase until the requisite successes (80 or 100 iirc) are met. INPA should erase everything erasable but some Shadows will still be stored.

And understand your point on the not running, however just because the engine isn’t running doesn’t mean there is no data transfer. As for DA position, what is there to lose by trying it out?

More info on CAnbus and EGS

Can bus: http://www.e38.org/bussystem.pdf

EGS w/ trans failsafe thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...fail-safe-mode


2001 750iL DD74441
E65 fan & clutch, E65 headrests, Front First Aid Kit, Ultimate Cup holder

2005 X5 4.8is LE82680
Stock

RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

[SilverIris]

[QUOTE=TheAngryBear;30556316]Shadow codes are stored in the long term memory. Some do not erase until the requisite successes (80 or 100 iirc) are met. INPA should erase everything erasable but some Shadows will still be stored.

And understand your point on the not running, however just because the engine isn’t running doesn’t mean there is no data transfer. As for DA position, what is there to lose by trying it out?

More info on CAnbus and EGS

Can bus: http://www.e38.org/bussystem.pdf

EGS w/ trans failsafe thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...fail-safe-mode

/QUOTE]

Thank you for clarifying about Shadow Memory and how it operates. What do you mean by "DA"? Sorry, I'm not exactly at 100% right now, too many late nights staying up till 5am translating a manual from Japanese. Was decrypting a system that's never seen the light of day outside of Japan.

I've read the mentioned thread exhaustively and it appears that it never got truly resolved. Parts were replaced, it went away and then came back for no logical reason.

Conclusion:

You ran the car without trans oil in the tranny, correct?
If so, that was a no-no. Perhaps this is what has led to a permanent ‘Trans-Failsafe’?

The car was stuck in Failsafe BEFORE trying this. It's been in Failsafe since day 1...

[TheAngryBear]

Sorry DA = Devils Advocate. Arguing against your position.

The way I am reading that thread: if you have an issue with the TCM (or other element) that can be jamming up the bus giving issues. Or the bus might be an issue...

If you take out a component and the codes clear then that component (or sectional connection) is suspect.

I didn’t think it was definitely resolved either but part is because of the complexity issues. ThingS were replaced but probably not singularly. The original portion came to the TCM causing issues. I would at least rule that (all the component elements) out before proceeding. You may have an element “screaming” and not allowing other signals...


2001 750iL DD74441
E65 fan & clutch, E65 headrests, Front First Aid Kit, Ultimate Cup holder

2005 X5 4.8is LE82680
Stock

RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

[SilverIris]

Sorry DA = Devils Advocate. Arguing against your position.

The way I am reading that thread: if you have an issue with the TCM (or other element) that can be jamming up the bus giving issues. Or the bus might be an issue...

If you take out a component and the codes clear then that component (or sectional connection) is suspect.

I didn’t think it was definitely resolved either but part is because of the complexity issues. ThingS were replaced but probably not singularly. The original portion came to the TCM causing issues. I would at least rule that (all the component elements) out before proceeding. You may have an element “screaming” and not allowing other signals...

I can see your point there. It seemed a bit out there that the ignition switch could trigger this whole chain of events. But based on what Timm referred to, in regard to the specific EGS error codes, it did make some sense. Especially when coupled with what we learned by swapping out the Unloader Relay with the temporary one from my Expedition. Generally speaking, "Canbus Screaming" would interfere with ALL other modules on the Canbus system. This previously produced a dead tachometer and temperature gauge spiking to full hot. That is not happening in this case though.

Since the specific error codes currently in the IKE and LCM are cryptic to say the least, and only seem to produce more confusion on possible "fixes" with no concrete diagnosis and solution, I made a meme about it. It's getting framed and hung in the garage. We all needed this laugh.

E38 Meme.jpg

Maybe it just needs an Exorcism to stop it being "disturbed"...