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Thread: Rescued a 2001 750IL with issues...

  1. #1
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    Rescued a 2001 750IL with issues...

    After I moved to Indianapolis last month, my aunt and uncle fell head over heels in love with my E38 (2001 740i). Since they really helped me out, I took to finding them one. One roadtrip to Missouri and $2500 later, we've rescued a 2001 750IL, #DD74777, with 176k on the clock. The reason I say "rescued" is because the previous owner inherited it from his grandfather and wasn't exactly the brightest bulb out there. For example, one issue with the trunk release is that it doesn't want to work when using the key in Manual Release mode (turn key 90 degrees to the left). The PO supposedly read that most owners drill a 2" hole behind the license plate to access the actuator and rods, and then Bondo over it... That didn't happen, thankfully, but it was clear this guy was WAY outclassed by the complexity of the car and was grasping at straws in diagnostic efforts. Suffice to say, the car has some issues and that is why he was selling it. He said it was an Individual, I found it it wasn't (Nachtblau paint, Marineblau/Ecru interior with Pearlbeige headliner). Tried uploading pictures, but they keep getting turned upside-down...

    First thing I did when we got back home was get a schematic of the Dual Battery System, then clean it up so it makes logical sense to the average person. The Main Battery (shared with all E38s) feeds the Starter and Heated Cats ONLY. The Auxiliary Battery (Group 48, same size I had in my 500hp RX-7) powers the rest of the car. The cleanup I did to the diagram was reorganizing it with the batteries at the top and adding some color to denote which features were 750IL-specific like the second test point under the hood (Driver's side of engine).

    Car had dead batteries when we got it and the PO said the alternator was dying too. So I charged them and they both came back to life. While doing so (this was entirely my fault...), I borrowed my 740i's battery and put it in BACKWARDS *facepalm*, then jumpered it to the Aux battery's terminals (car positive terminal to car positive terminal). Got some sparks, drained the battery in about a minute. Yanked it out, charged it back up and found this.

    Tachometer is now unresponsive and the Temperature gauge is reading Full HOT.

    Also, whenever the car is running or key is ON, the headlights (high beam) are ON. I noticed this when we got the car, BEFORE my battery brainfart episode...

    With both of the batteries fully charged and correctly connected, it started on the first try with no drama. The alternator perked right up to the appropriate 13.5-15.0v range. A slight rev put it right at 14.0v, so all is well there.

    PO said it was showing Transmission Failsafe Program (I verified it), transmission is slipping from old fluid/filter in the same manner my 740I sometimes does. From my limited experience seeing it in my 740i, Trans Failsafe Program means today is Thursday, a cat is wearing a purple tutu and bananas are whistling in Chinese. Turn the car off, restart it and it's back to normal...

    With that said, there are other less-pressing issues such as the Tamper Dot being ON, some dim pixels in the Cluster Message Display and a red LED on the Navigation screen being ON too. I'm reasonably certain it is due to the PO throwing parts at it and hoping that something would work. The issue with the headlights being ON leads me to believe that the LCM was failing and the PO replaced it without coding the correct data. Could someone please verify symptoms of a failing LCM? I have searched, but I'm coming up empty right now.

    Anyway, some minor flaws are present too. Mostly just annoying things like the headliner needing recovered, reattach the driver's seat adjuster switch cap, tackle the driver's seat recline twist (cables...), get a new cap for the coolant bottle (it leaks...), reattach the grille the right way (it was taped...), and fix the sagging/grinding window regulator.

    On an odd note, the sunroof works with no issues whatsoever...
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    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  2. #2
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    Rescued a 2001 750IL with issues...

    That is rather nice of you to get a 750iL and fix it up for them... unless you are giving the bills to them! Ha!

    As for a few of the items:
    -Red LED on the nav Unit is the phone is powered on.
    http://www.e38.org/onboardmonitor.pdf
    -Hi beams being on could either be an LCM issue or daytime running lights are coded on. If they are dim likely the latter, if full on the the former.
    -IKE issues could be as simple as a battery nap (sleep, disconnect for 15 mins, reconnect) or try a Test 21 in the “hidden menu”. It might be a bigger issue but try the free and simple stuff first as it has worked for others before.



    2001 750iL DD74441
    E65 fan & clutch, E65 headrests, Front First Aid Kit, Ultimate Cup holder

    RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
    H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1
    Last edited by TheAngryBear; 09-14-2019 at 08:53 AM. Reason: Correct autocorrect grammar fails

  3. #3
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    Truth be told, I did not finance this project. The 750IL was bought as an eventual replacement for the CTS (see my sig) and the eventual sale of my uncle's truck to my nephew (uncle's grandson). Once that is done, I offered to lend him by Expedition whenever he needed it to move/tow stuff. Its 4R100 transmission is a bit heartier than his Silverado (4L60E transmission), and it's been underworked since I got it in early 2016.

    I am just donating my time, effort and knowledge to get the 750IL back in proper running condition, while saving money on parts where logically and reasonably appropriate. For example, the stock battery hold-down clamps are $18 each ($36 plus shipping) from FCPEuro. Instead of that, I looked around Autozone and found a generic GM/Ford kit with two suitable parts for $5. Things like this help offset the big unavoidable expenses like ordering another key from BMW.

    I had ZERO idea about the Red LED being for the phone, so thank you for the PDF. Oddly enough, it came with a StarTAC phone in the center console. Another toy to play with...

    I'm not entirely certain if the high beams were running in DRL mode (reduced voltage) or on at full brightness. A quick test with the headlights turned on via the switch showed the high beams are staying on with the factory Xenon low beams. Cluster Self Test via the Hidden Menu is next on the agenda. After that, I guess we'll play it by ear.

    It definitely helps to have another E38 to do side-by-side comparisons with

    Quote Originally Posted by TheAngryBear View Post
    That is rather nice of you to get a 750iL and fix it up for them... unless you are giving the bills to them! Ha!

    As for a few of the items:
    -Red LED on the nav Unit is the phone is powered on.
    http://www.e38.org/onboardmonitor.pdf
    -Hi beams being on could either be an LCM issue or daytime running lights are coded on. If they are dim likely the latter, if full on the the former.
    -IKE issues could be as simple as a battery nap (sleep, disconnect for 15 mins, reconnect) or try a Test 21 in the “hidden menu”. It might be a bigger issue but try the free and simple stuff first as it has worked for others before.



    2001 750iL DD74441
    E65 fan & clutch, E65 headrests, Front First Aid Kit, Ultimate Cup holder

    RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
    H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  4. #4
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    Per your advice, I went into the Cluster Self Test as seen here: https://www.meeknet.co.uk/e38/OBC_Unlock.htm (and here http://mr-fix.info/bmw-e38-obc-hidden-menu/) and found some useful information

    Test 01 Data:
    FGSTNR: DD73905 (unlock code is 24) [VIN number]

    K: 7356

    BMWTNR: 6942178

    CI: 12 DI: 09 BI: 15
    DAT: 46/06
    HW: 25 SW: 2100/2100
    ZYL: 12 M: 7 S: 4095

    CAN: 04 AEND: 46


    I've determined that the cluster was replaced at some point, coming from #DD73905 (2000 750IL, WBAGJ0343YDD73905, built on October 19, 1999), and originally replaced under DD73905's warranty (week 46, year 2006) which explains the Odometer Tamper Dot and confirms that the previous owner was throwing parts at the car, hoping to fix the car's issues. Apparently, DD73905 has a cluster failure and was replaced/coded properly in 2006 (week 46 manufacture date). Sometime later, it ended up being salvaged out. It stands to reason that the original cluster in the car had dead/dying pixels and the PO swapped it without coding the correct information to it.

    Test 02 passed with flying colors, all gauges and indicator lights behave as they should. Gauge needles did a full sweep and returned to 0, all indicators lit up, message center lit up and showed some dim pixels).

    Test 07 (tach, coolant temp & air temp, done without engine running) displayed correct information as well. Is there a way to repeat this with the engine running? As previously known, the tachometer signal comes from the DME(s), while Coolant and Air Temperature are reported directly from their respective sensors. Testing while running will pinpoint the non-working components in one fell swoop.

    With that said, I openly admit I know little about the Coding procedure(s) and next to nothing about INPA. Is there a method to extract the proper mileage/coding information from the LCM, DME and Cluster while in the car? I think that would be the best approach before digging deeper.
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  5. #5
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    You can do the tests while the engine is running. 7 is my default while driving as I don’t trust the temp gauge.
    Been using 9 (voltage) and 16 (oil temp) while fixing my friends X5.

    Try test 21 (reset electronics) to see if that helps with the temp gauge pegged.

    As for coding the cluster, no clue but lookup blackknight on this forum. He runs fixels and is the cluster (and dead pixels) master.


    2001 750iL DD74441
    E65 fan & clutch, E65 headrests, Front First Aid Kit, Ultimate Cup holder

    RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
    H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

  6. #6
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    Perhaps I missed something in the procedure on Meeknet to enable diagnostic mode while running, but it didn't seem to want to go into Diagnostic mode unless it the engine was not running. Could you please clarify how you normally enter it? Since the cluster checks out fine, besides the mileage discrepancy (already deduced it was a swapped cluster), it's gotta be something in the other associated electronics.

    Found out something interesting while digging this afternoon. Turns out the cluster's donor car was wrecked in Las Vegas in 2013. NVDOT report said it was disabled after a diagonal impact, so it was presumably parted out and the PO of our 750IL grabbed the cluster to fix something without knowing about the Tamper Dot.

    As far as coding is concerned, first I need to ascertain the correct mileage/coding information from the redundant copies stored elsewhere in the car. Then I can worry about re-syncing it to the proper settings. Suddenly, I'm quite pleased that these cars backup their own info.

    Quote Originally Posted by TheAngryBear View Post
    You can do the tests while the engine is running. 7 is my default while driving as I don’t trust the temp gauge.
    Been using 9 (voltage) and 16 (oil temp) while fixing my friends X5.

    Try test 21 (reset electronics) to see if that helps with the temp gauge pegged.

    As for coding the cluster, no clue but lookup blackknight on this forum. He runs fixels and is the cluster (and dead pixels) master.


    2001 750iL DD74441
    E65 fan & clutch, E65 headrests, Front First Aid Kit, Ultimate Cup holder

    RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
    H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  7. #7
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    It should be the same procedure to unlock with the engine running. And once you u lock either way it should just be unlocked. Iirc it does take a few secs longer on the right button hold to queue up the tests...

    For the mileage on the IKE, if you zero it it will reset by pulling from the other areas. However, with the high beams you may also have a LCM replacement... so the mileage there could be incorrect too...


    2001 750iL DD74441
    E65 fan & clutch, E65 headrests, Front First Aid Kit, Ultimate Cup holder

    RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
    H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

  8. #8
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    I agree that it is the same procedure with the car running or not ( my vin is dd73956 ) 12/99 prod - cluster original to the car. I did have to try a few times in the beginning to learn how to do it, but once learned, all has been good.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheAngryBear View Post
    It should be the same procedure to unlock with the engine running. And once you u lock either way it should just be unlocked. Iirc it does take a few secs longer on the right button hold to queue up the tests...

    For the mileage on the IKE, if you zero it it will reset by pulling from the other areas. However, with the high beams you may also have a LCM replacement... so the mileage there could be incorrect too...

    2001 750iL DD74441
    E65 fan & clutch, E65 headrests, Front First Aid Kit, Ultimate Cup holder
    RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
    H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1
    I agree that it is the same procedure with the car running or not ( my vin is dd73956 ) 12/99 prod - cluster original to the car. I did have to try a few times in the beginning to learn how to do it, but once learned, all has been good.
    Thank you again for the info, apparently I wasn't holding the button long enough. I will give it another try later today after checking fluids. As for deducing the correct mileage, what items store the mileage? I know of the IKE Cluster, DME, LCM, but what else is there? The plan is to extract the information from every location and see which ones agree with each other. Seems like a pretty simple way to find the correct coding/mileage info.

    With the issues I'm finding and resolving one at a time, this might be a good sticky thread later on...
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  10. #10
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    Not sure what issues you have left but here are a few of my experiences. When my temp gauge pegged after some water pump work it was the temp sensor. I was messing around with coding and after I was done every time I had the key on the headlights were on and the switch did nothing. I tied to code the problem out with no success. I discovered through tons of research the after you load the VO the software knows what options the car came with. Then if you write with an empty MAN file the software will find the Daten file for your VO and load the original coding.

    I am being vague on purpose because I am no expert. I will try and dig up the thread that explains it, mostly. I just want you to know that there is a way to get deeper and it doesn't really take money just time. After I figured it out my light work as they should.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by acspecialists View Post
    Not sure what issues you have left but here are a few of my experiences. When my temp gauge pegged after some water pump work it was the temp sensor. I was messing around with coding and after I was done every time I had the key on the headlights were on and the switch did nothing. I tied to code the problem out with no success. I discovered through tons of research the after you load the VO the software knows what options the car came with. Then if you write with an empty MAN file the software will find the Daten file for your VO and load the original coding.

    I am being vague on purpose because I am no expert. I will try and dig up the thread that explains it, mostly. I just want you to know that there is a way to get deeper and it doesn't really take money just time. After I figured it out my light work as they should.
    Very interesting. My current understanding is that it is a 4-wire sensor with two independent circuits: one for the DME and one for the Gauge. On the same vein, I'm putting together a garage/glovebox reference chart for all of the fluids and light bulbs. I did so when I got my 740I a year ago, so I'm just adding a column for the 750IL's fluid capacities. Unlike most Japanese manufacturers whom make absolutely certain that it is spelled out in the Owners Manual (Mazda was quite good about that in the late 80s/early 90s), it seems that BMW is rather lazy/tight-lipped about such. While it took some digging to find the appropriate information for my 740I, capacities for the 750IL's Differential, Power Steering (with EDC adjustable suspension), brake fluid (because longer rear lines) and even the transmission seem to be subject to rampant misinformation or no information at all via sources such as NewTIS. I finally got sick of it and got a copy of the ZF 5HP30 Parts Catalog, which conveniently lists 13.5L (14.3 QT) as the DRY FILL fluid capacity. For a fluid/filter change, it will be less but it never hurts to be prepared.

    I can't imagine the hell that these cars' first owners went through when visiting Autozone in 2001 for a rear reading light bulb (#64111, in the C-pillar) and finding the same bulb has 28 different names... My reference chart will have a bulb cross-reference chart just for this reason.

    Anyway, what brought this on was that I checked the fluids in it today. Oil was slightly low and dirty (expected it), coolant was low (leak at the overflow bottle), PS fluid/Adjustable Suspension reservoir was empty, transmission fluid & filter are probably original from May 2001 (same with the differential). Could someone please weigh in on the above boldfaced items' fluid capacities?
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  12. #12
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    Great thread and good luck with the 750. Was wondering if you’ve made the 740 fluid capacities available somewhere for fellow owners; it would be very helpful!

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  14. #14
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    I don’t think that the brake fluid capacity would be listed differently for iL vs i. It’s an additional 10 inches of 3/16 brake line - 5 inches wheelbase, going to 2 wheels - pretty negligible. Power Steering / edc - also a good question - I only ever checked to keep it full.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by CPHES View Post
    I don’t think that the brake fluid capacity would be listed differently for iL vs i. It’s an additional 10 inches of 3/16 brake line - 5 inches wheelbase, going to 2 wheels - pretty negligible. Power Steering / edc - also a good question - I only ever checked to keep it full.
    Excellent point, but I am rather meticulous when it comes to information and leave little to chance. Rather than guess, and by extension, leave an even less-informed new owner with the wrong information, I'd feel better knowing for certain in the same manner that Timm as been so kind to do for all of us. A big thank you for the differential capacity.

    Based on an ID of 1/8" (0.125") and 10" overall length, the difference comes out to 0.1227 cubic inches or 0.002 L (2 milliliters) more for 740/750IL's compared to a 740I. Now that we know in solid numbers, I'm comfortable with saying that it is not worth worrying about.

    So I buttoned up the batteries this morning, and found it was down 6 quarts of coolant. Knew it has a leak, so gave it some water (we're averaging 80 degrees Fahrenheit ambient temperature right now) for now. All set to turn the car around, turn they key and got nothing.

    Checked the batteries, 10 volts each... Something drained the smaller 55AH top battery, and the "brilliant" Disconnect system tried compensating by feeding it power from the normal 110AH bottom battery. So overnight, it killed both of them. Warning, math ahead...

    If both were down to 50% capacity (27.5 and 55AH) and the car drained both of them down to zero (based on 10v measured voltage), we can calculate the approximate current draw based on the timeframe of 12 hours (10PM to 10AM). Roughly 6.875 amps were being constantly drawn, which narrows down the field of suspects quite a bit. For reference, normal parasitic draw in most cars is less than 100 ma. Based on the numbers, I have a gut feeling it's in the Navigation system and/or telephone due to the red LED on the Nav screen being on.

    Apply Watt's Law and the calculated power usage comes to 82.5 watts of power being used constantly overnight. Roughly the same as the high beam headlights being left on, due to a sketchy LCM. Modern optical drives use about 15-30 watts, so a 2001-era CD-ROM drive (from the Navigation system...) that is constantly seeking would use a bit more than that.

    So after they charge up...again, car is getting a FULL parasitic draw workup. On a side note, the battery terminal bolts, which do NOT have part numbers from BMW, are available through Standard Brand. Part number is BP59D for a pair of them. You can get them from Oreilly's and Home Depot

    And now my 740I needs new tires...
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  16. #16
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    9:43PM update:
    Batteries are charged enough, not 100% but it will do. I found one of the Rear Opera Accent Lights (750IL exclusive) on as soon as I reconnected the Top (System) Battery. Two 1 watt bulbs on for who knows how long and I didn't notice it untill now... Everyone whom sees this can now do the Jeremy Clarkson Smug Face

    Facepalming aside, I mapped out the ENTIRE power delivery system to try and pin down the source of excessive current draw in a proper Parasitic Draw Test tomorrow. Time well spent, especially when making some properly descriptive, easy to read Japanese-style fuse box diagrams. While doing so, I found an odd quirk. On both 740I and 750IL, on the battery compartment fuse list (passenger/RH side of trunk), it refers to two fuses, F82 and F83, each 50A and described as "Window lift rear right wheel house"

    For the life of me, I cannot seem to find any mention of these in NewTIS at all. The closest I can come to it is this vague description and unclear photo found on 740/750I/IL/ILP/ILS models:
    Yet neither of my E38s have it...
    https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...se-box/VJIRsB6
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  17. #17
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    Those rear accent lights will turn off with the consumer shutdown in the car after the car goes to sleep after the 16 min period. That's not the cause of your drain...

    You can roughly check the nav drive by leaving the trunk open and see if it turns off after 1 minute. If it doesn't turn off, either the nav is bad or something on the i-bus is keeping the bus awake.

    You said you put the battery terminals on backwards, so if a module did get fried, that would be the cause of your drain. Time to start pulling fuses.

    BTW, some of those larger fuses that are referenced are in that white fuse box above the battery or in the fuse box under the passenger seat.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer2086 View Post
    Those rear accent lights will turn off with the consumer shutdown in the car after the car goes to sleep after the 16 min period. That's not the cause of your drain...

    You can roughly check the nav drive by leaving the trunk open and see if it turns off after 1 minute. If it doesn't turn off, either the nav is bad or something on the i-bus is keeping the bus awake.

    You said you put the battery terminals on backwards, so if a module did get fried, that would be the cause of your drain. Time to start pulling fuses.

    BTW, some of those larger fuses that are referenced are in that white fuse box above the battery or in the fuse box under the passenger seat.
    That is what I thought, but oldschool electrical engineering logic said that if it can be turned on at any time, it's a straight line to the battery and WILL drain it if you forget. We've all done it.

    I spent last night drawing up a comprehensive set of diagrams for every fuse box in the car. Got a newfound appreciation for the abilities of LibreOffice Writer's clever tools to make page backgrounds. Did a test print on my crappy inkjet printer and it looks good enough for a quick garage reference. Final version will get a proper full-color laser print and be laminated like I did for my Expedition a few years ago. Seemed like a logical thing to do when tracing parasitic draw gremlins.

    Before drawing up the diagram, I made certain to note the position and wire colors of the APX (AKA Maxi blade style) Fuses for accurate identification. F01 to F81 and F100 to F115 are all accounted for with no surprises. The above mentioned F82 and F83 are a complete mystery though, with no mention in any wiring diagrams in NewTIS that I am aware of. Perhaps a call to BMW might shed some light on this.

    This morning, I turned the car around (she fired up with no fuss), put the batteries back on the charger so they'll be at 100% and gave it a much-needed bath. Charger is finishing up now, and the next project is fixing the sagging window regulator while the jumpstart and shop charging junction point boxes are on the way from FCPEuro. Speaking of ordering parts, sometime I have to find time to order and redo the brake lines on my Expedition in case we have to tow the 750IL somewhere.
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  19. #19
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    My Cars
    2001 740i E38

    The bloodsucking parasites...

    So I found what buggered up the driver's door window. Window Regulator pulley in 3 pieces, time for a new regulator. Also fixed the trunk latch , the lock rod from the key cylinder fell off at the cylinder. Put it back on and added 2 zip ties so it can't fall out again.

    Okay, now onto the main issue: Parasitic Draw killing the batteries.

    2 meters wouldn't work, so I got my 3rd one out, which I had previously caught on fire years ago from...ahem trying to measure the current draw of my RX-7's starter . Much to my surprise, it still measures current. Pulled off the 55AH top battery's negative terminal, slapped the meter on and tripped the latch to trigger the 16-minute timer. Now the waiting begins.

    Parasitic draw results
    0:00-1:00 2.25A drawn
    1:00-16:00 1.30A
    16:00+ 0.11A


    0.11A after everything is supposed to go to sleep. Starting at the back with #F77, the ATO/ATC Blade fuses were pulled one at a time, checking the meter after each one and again when reinstalled.

    #F26 (Gong, immobilizer, instrument cluster, shifter gate light) and #F51 (Sunroof) each drop the meter to 0.09A when pulled, then "Zombie" the timer back to life when reinstalled. Each time this "Zombie" behavior occurs, I have to wait another 16 minutes for it to go back to sleep.
    #F31 (Outside Mirror, Central Locking System, Window Lift) and #F70 (Telephone) Zombie'd the timer, no current draw change.

    #69 (Navigation, Radio, CD Changer, On-Board Monitor) dropped the meter to 0.08A on the first pass and Zombie'd the timer on reinstall (immediately waking up the Navigation drive), but not on the 2nd pass after going through the rest of the car. It only Zombie'd the timer the 2nd time through. It is a MkIII system as far as I can readily tell.

    While going through the car, I found that it would keep Zombie resurrecting the timer at random, then kill it off again with no rhyme or reason to it that I could discern. This isn't making any logical sense to me. Timm, what are your thoughts on this?
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    2,665
    My Cars
    750IL/540iT/R53/E46Vert
    Bad BCM / Body Control Module?

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Hampshire UK
    Posts
    8,871
    My Cars
    99 840ci Sport Indv
    Don't pull fuses - it's such a waste of time! Do this instead - you will work out which fuse is conducting current without disturbing the General Module's timer:

    http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E64/Fuse%20...20Readings.pdf
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


    My BMW Repair YouTube Channel
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    Chase - Heroes to a generation

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    NY
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    2,665
    My Cars
    750IL/540iT/R53/E46Vert
    Thank you Timm, looks like a good reference for all of us.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    415
    My Cars
    2001 740i E38
    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    Don't pull fuses - it's such a waste of time! Do this instead - you will work out which fuse is conducting current without disturbing the General Module's timer:

    http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E64/Fuse%20...20Readings.pdf
    I saw that PDF yesterday while waiting on the timer to go back to sleep, didn't make much sense then. Maybe it was just me hyperfocusing on what was at hand. Or I needed more coffee...
    Clever idea, though a bit difficult to implement on the rear ATO/ATC fuse box due to the relevant geometry in a dual-battery 750IL without extracting the Top Battery and hooking it back up with jumper cables. But for items such as the ANL/Mega fuse panels which I was having difficulty determining an easy method for, it is completely ingenious and brilliant. Well done, my friend.

    On a side note, pulling #56 triggers the alarm. Oddly though, this 750IL's siren is completely silent. I would wager that due to the previous owner's lack of electrical knowledge, it was probably unplugged as he triggered it quite often trying to fix things...

    Anyway, time for Cup of Coffee #2, then salvage yard trip for a new window regulator. If all else fails, I can at least fix the window properly today.
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Ft. Lauderdale, FL
    Posts
    5,083
    My Cars
    98 740il, 00 540i,04 ZHP
    Timm great reference!! Saved into my docs for the future!
    '98 740il | 9/97 build | schwarz 2 | sandbeige | 5AT | 270k
    '04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 120k
    '00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 152k
    '85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 216k | one owner, all original

    mods: m-pars | Bilsteins & B&G springs | ValentineOne | StealthOne
    retrofits: full nav | MKIV | bluetooth TCU | BM53 w/ AUX input | video module w/ AV input & backup cam | oem sirius xm | xenon | shades | PDC | rain sensor | BMW DWS TPMS | lighted door handles | front seat heaters | heated steering wheel | euro rear fog lights | ski pass | folding mirrors


  25. #25
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    415
    My Cars
    2001 740i E38
    Took a break from the electrical issues and tackled the droopy/sagging driver's side rear window. A trip to the local you-pull-it style salvage yard yielded a healthy window regulator from a 01 740IL (which had a 4:3 Nav screen, weird). Harbor Freight 18v drill batteries are quite handy for procedures like this. Took all of 20 minutes to have the regulator out, using the proper E12 socket and Torx drive bits, then the toy shopping began...

    Despite my best efforts, no MkIV Navigation system was lurking around in anything of the E39/E60 5-series on the lot. On the plus side, new fog lights for $9 each, fuel door actuator for $12 (750IL is currently missing the emergency pull handle, my 740I's actuator is completely dead but has the pull handle...), a pair of trunk lights, tow hook, OE BMW screwdriver and even a cd changer magazine for ONE DOLLAR EACH.

    Got back home, took a break and finished up the door. Now it looks and works like new, minus some small scratches in the window tint on the lower rearmost corner. Also got a good look at the 750IL's "toys". The driver's side rear quarter window sun shade was hacked off and broken, the main window section was fine. The door ash tray's pop-out spring fell out in my hand, but everything else is working as it should. By chance, does anyone know how to reassemble these properly?

    The passenger side rear door panel will eventually be removed and refitted properly as it is loose at the top and the sunshade does not operate properly. Safe bet is that a previous owner was monkeying around in there and borked it up. Oh well, at least it should be a simple, relatively easy fix.

    Overall, it's been a good day.
    2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
    1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig

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