My old truck had a dent. I found a new trunk on eBay, same color, so I swapped them out.
I made sure the latch and lock were working, and then tested the latch. Closing the truck seemed a little tight at first, but then was okay.
Then I checked to make sure all bolts and screws were tightened, and I put the covers back on.
Either when I went to tighten the lock, I disconnected the rod from the lock to the truck latch and forgot to reattach it, OR when I went to close it, the truck wasn't closing easily, so I closed it harder, and when I tried to reopen it the rod popped off.
Now it doesn't open.
Any thoughts on how to open the truck now. There is one video that suggests taking off the BMW decal and drilling through there, and that doing that will release the trunk latch. My thought is to drill out the lock, and fidget in there to push the latch rod and unlatch it.
Everything else, the selenoid, the trunk brake lights, etc, all work fine.
Has any one ever dealt with this before and know of a way to unlatch it without destroying the trunk?
This is the rod I am talking about (Yes I know that's not the right lock for my car)
s-l1600.jpg
I agree that it is better. But before I start drilling holes in the body, Does anyone know if drilling the hole under the badge actually works?
And I think the latch is fine. Best as I can figure, I disconnected the rod from the knob to the latch to do the final tighten on the bolts and didn’t reconnect. There is no resistance on the key when I push it in to open the truck.
This is the video I’ve seen on youtube to unlatch it.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pVdESLYrXRU
Last edited by alipies; 09-13-2019 at 11:11 PM.
Drilling does work to operate the latch to open the trunk:
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?t=1276312
Then you can reconnect the rod to the latch.
Last edited by Vintage42; 09-14-2019 at 06:51 AM.
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
I was able to open the truck, and it's alarmingly easy
I used:
1 plastic putty knife
3/16 drill bit and drill
Scotch Extremely Strong double sided tape.
First I used the plastic putty knife to remove the badge. I had to use a wrench (since my tools were locked in my truck) to bang it in under the badge, but doing it on both of the sides and not the top or bottom was enough to remove it.
Attachment 659041
Unlike the youtube video I referenced, a 3/8 drill bit is not required. And actually any small size is probably okay, provided it's long enough.
I drilled a hole in the center with a very small drill bit just to get the hole started, and the truck may have popped but I didn't notice. But the 3/16 was longer, and when I drilled in through the truck, it popped open.
Attachment 659042
Inspecting the lock the arm had either popped off or I forgot to put it back on. I put it back in and tested it with the truck open, and it popped off again. I had failed to push it back all the in. I did that, and tested it around thirty times with the truck open and then closing it, and it worked every time.
Attachment 659043
Cleaning the old double sided tape off the badge was the biggest pain. After cleaning the trunk area with Goo Be Gone, washing it with soap and water, and thoroughly drying it, I pealed the tape off the badge and reapplied the Scotch double sided tape
IMG_7029 copy.jpg
In the other video he plugs up with whole with a metal hole plug. I don't believe this is required, as I put the tape completely around the badge, and there are two holes there already that are not sealed.
I adjusted the truck fit, since it was very tight when I swapped out the old truck with the new one. And now it's good. I put my key in and it opens.
IMG_7032.jpg
I however am not good. The emotional scars of this shall live with me for all my remaining days. Every time I look at my truck, I shall relive the horror of it not opening, and wonder, "Will this be the time it stops opening again???!!!"
Thanks to everyone that posted that helped!
Last edited by alipies; 09-16-2019 at 09:12 PM.
Live and learn.
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