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Thread: ‘95 325i rough idle and intermittent stalling?

  1. #26
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    Get another maf, send the old/new one back. Check the throttle detente and make sure its not loose. Check you maf wires and connection, make sure that not screwed. You throwing a code for the maf, new maf, unplugging does nothing... Wires?
    Last edited by shogun; 05-26-2022 at 02:31 AM.

  2. #27
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    The wires plug for my maf is pretty effed up lol. All taped up and stuff but that doesn’t explain the surging idle and low idle.
    Last edited by shogun; 05-26-2022 at 02:31 AM.

  3. #28
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    No one?

  4. #29
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    You should take the tape off and examine that none of the wires are broken or coming loose. If you know how to solder you should fix them with new shrink wrap.
    Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    You should take the tape off and examine that none of the wires are broken or coming loose. If you know how to solder you should fix them with new shrink wrap.
    True true. Yeah just fired up the car earlier and it filed for two minutes with a surging idle from 500-800 over and over, then finally stalled out. Car is definitely better on the throttle response today. Just so confused. I’ll check the wiring out. How hard is it to replace the maf wiring? Is there anything else that could be causing this issue? Bad rough surging idle and intermittent stalling while idling and driving?

  6. #31
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    Nothing wrong with the maf wiring. It looks good

  7. #32
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    The reason I’m so stumped. Is because over the period of this project so far, probably a couple weeks ago. The car at one point was idling really well no surging... how did that just change by installing new parts?

  8. #33
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    Pictures of the DME? Running injector cleaner? New fuel filter?
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  9. #34
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    4C9B9825-A8C5-41A6-B3CF-73B6BCC65EB9.jpeg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    Pictures of the DME? Running injector cleaner? New fuel filter?
    I’m assuming P.O. has altered the DME??? Red marker written on the side. Right now I’m down to the issue being a coolant temp sensor, o2 sensor or the computer... any help would be appreciated. Started the car today and it idled sooo rough and giving it throttle felt awful... I’m lost, lmao.

  10. #35
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    Ok, so by pictures of the DME I was referring to the circuit board on the inside, and get access to both sides of the board, in focus so that solder points can be check and in focus so that if there is any oxide present on the board.

    BUT, the wiring harness has bad wires, so that is a major concern. Once that harness gets opened up there may be a lot of trouble in there.
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  11. #36
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    Eric93e is referring tot the fact that's early E36 have insufficient water drainage at the windshield cowl which can cause dme flooding and corrosion of the circuit board.

    Do you have ads interface and inpa on a laptop. Thats what i would do, check all sensor and error messages for clues whats wrong. DIS, which is harder to install..even gives ranges of what values all sensors should be in

  12. #37
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    Obd1?
    Last edited by shogun; 05-26-2022 at 02:32 AM.

  13. #38
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    C2938510-3D03-4B9B-A23C-8E32683F9EB0.jpeg

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    Appears to be in good shape. I’m just confused as to how two weeks ago or so before the installation of the tps, my idle was perfect right at around 800. Now after the tps installation, the idle is surging at low rpms repeatedly. It’s like every week the car runs a different way or doesn’t at all. I’m really thinking it’s still a sensor issue. I’m not sure.

  14. #39
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    28B16654-78DC-4621-BA0F-6C40A8B3F4DF.jpegFrayed so badly.. copper wires exposed. Tried my best to electrical tape one that was broken apart back together.. this is starting to look expensive

  15. #40
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    Mine is ok on the side on the pictures but has some corrosion on the other side of the circuit board (but no problems)
    So you fixed all the wires? Also check the trunk wiring
    Last edited by shogun; 05-26-2022 at 02:33 AM.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaegre36 View Post


    I’m assuming P.O. has altered the DME??? Red marker written on the side. Right now I’m down to the issue being a coolant temp sensor, o2 sensor or the computer... any help would be appreciated. Started the car today and it idled sooo rough and giving it throttle felt awful... I’m lost, lmao.
    felt awful how? does it stumble all the way to and including redline if you try to get to redline? Does it run right under load or any other situation?
    -Rich-


  17. #42
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    I am having this exact same problem. We have replaced all of the same parts, but I have noticed little to no improvement. I just ordered two new o2 sensors, i'm hoping that will point me in the right direction. Will update with what I find.
    Last edited by shogun; 05-26-2022 at 02:34 AM.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by chromeheart2k View Post
    I am having this exact same problem. We have replaced all of the same parts, but I have noticed little to no improvement. I just ordered two new o2 sensors, i'm hoping that will point me in the right direction. Will update with what I find.
    is your car stumbling? does it rev OK?

    Mine is sort of doing the same thing too
    -Rich-


  19. #44
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    If you find oxidation in the DME then you should get a can of Deoxit 5% and spary down both sides liberally and gently scrub with a clean paint brush. It has to be 1000% dry before re-installing.

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    If you find bad wires like that, the bad sections have to be removed one wire at a time and a fresh piece of wire that is a little thicker than the original soldered in.

    Don't do any BS with twisting wires together and thinking it will be good enough.
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  20. #45
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    It does not rev at all. As soon as the throttle is touched at all it wants to stall. It idles surprisingly well. Just smoke tested yesterday and the intake system is solid.
    I also got a junkyard DME from another identical car, but the fuel pump will not turn on when I use the new DME.
    Last edited by shogun; 05-26-2022 at 02:35 AM.

  21. #46
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    Probably because the DME/EWS alignment isn't ok with the new DME. You'll need a new chip. Maybe try putting the old chip from your original DME into the one you just picked up?
    Last edited by shogun; 05-26-2022 at 02:35 AM.

  22. #47
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    Definitely worth a shot. I originally picked up a second DME because even after replacing parts I had codes for, the codes never went away and performance was the same. I replaced just about every sensor in the engine bay. The old DME randomly stopped throwing the other codes and now I'm only left with codes for all 4 o2 sensors. Hopefully my throttle issue is related to the o2 readings. Seems like the engine is getting way too much fuel.
    Last edited by shogun; 05-26-2022 at 02:35 AM.

  23. #48
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    Not to necro my own thread but I’ve taken a long break for the holidays. Been a long time but I’ve started working on the car again. Had it running the other day. It started rough and didn’t want to run at first but after some fighting she idled for about 8 minutes then died. Tried jumping it today and wouldn’t even try to start. Battery was completely dead. Something is terribly draining the battery still. Did you ever figure anything out? I’m still lost on this project, lol.

  24. #49
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    I did’t, and have since sold the pile of crap that was my e36. It was a Frankenstein project from the beginning and eventually I gave up on it. Would do anything to get it back and give it another shot. I think my problem was probably in the harness somewhere, or fuel system. Good luck!
    Last edited by shogun; 05-26-2022 at 02:36 AM.

  25. #50
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    If anyone is curious, I am not giving up on this. This is a full part replacement fix almost... besides engine and tranny ��

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    I am doing valve cover gasket right now and plug replacement as well as a spark test. Vanos has been checked out good.

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