Looks damn good!!!! I'd go with ceramic just because, but honestly if you're using the zf320, she won't last long with 600wtrq I promise you that.
Yeah I like the idea of a "factor of safety" on the clutch but the rest of the drivetrain (ZF320 + 188mm diff) would not put that much power down anyway without failure.
I'm still on ebay clutches and so far so good can't complain.
Bunch of progress over the past few weeks:
> Gutted the OBC and used the frame as a mount for a triple gauge panel.
> Installed the sender wiring for the aftermarket gauges via an existing transmission tunnel knockout in front of the shifter.
> Installed the engine accessories and OBD2 engine harness, mounted the turbo manifold, and installed the clutch kit and transmission.
> Painted the transmission and miscellaneous other bits because I'm a masochist.
I'm waiting to get a few things back from powder coating but expect to have the engine dropped in next weekend. I'm pretty stoked.
Reinstalled the engine this weekend. My dad and a buddy helped and it went well. I took the advice of E36Hater and used a ratchet strap around the passenger side engine mount arm to keep the engine more upright while dropping it back in. Also test fitted the turbo. It fits good with the 88Lab manifold. No clearance issues to the strut tower or inner fender, which I'm very happy about after shaving/painting the bay. Now it's on to wiring / OBD2 conversion!
Still working on this thing. Every time that I think I make good headway there is some other issue that I encounter. I guess that's the joy of working on a near 30 year old car. Plus I'm a newb and at times don't know what I'm doing. Anyways, recent progress includes:
> Installed the intercooler.
> Mounted the turbo and turbo drain line (used a Cummins flex style line).
> Finished the OBD2 conversion. I repinned the x20 connectors and relocated the CEL wire from the x6031 to the x20 connector on the engine harness. However, I'm chasing an issue where the CEL won't go on. I have swapped clusters, changed the bulbs, and checked the wiring using a multi-meter to troubleshoot the cause. I will check for continuity between the DME and instrument cluster and other than that, I'm out of ideas.
> Installed gauges and boost controller.
> Had the odometer reset to "zero".
> Bled brakes
> Filled diff
I'm waiting on an M52/S52 fuel rail and a ZF driveshaft. Also need to figure out an expansion tank relocation / aftermarket setup since the compressor cover hits the stock expansion tank. Here are some pics.
I love it
Very nice. Cant wait to see this build rip. I still need to get mine to the dyno to see what I can put down on deadly pump gas lol.
Thanks guys
Some more progress this weekend:
> Installed the Walbro 485 fuel pump. "Hardwired" the pump off the battery using the SPAL relay. I ended up knocking out the plug pins for the power & ground wires to the existing pump. Drilled out the pin holes and then ran the new pump power & ground wires thru the enlarged pin holes. For the relay I connected the: red wire to the positive battery terminal with an in-line fuse; the orange wire to a ground in the trunk; the gray wire to the existing power supply wire for the old pump to trigger the relay; and the yellow wire to the new pump power wire. Grounded the new pump & existing ground wire to the airbag sensor stud.
> Installed the driveshaft. I was not able to find a 4-bolt ZF front section so I purchased a complete 6 bolt ZF driveshaft. A local driveshaft shop cut and mated the rear splined portion of the Getrag front driveshaft section with the ZF tube and flange ears. Everything is supposedly balanced so we'll see...
> Installed the intake manifold with Maximum PSI "boost-proof" ICV hoses and the Rally Road ICV fitting.
> Made up a 4AN turbo oil feed line.
Hope to have the fuel rail and lines between the rail and filter sorted out this week. Then it's punch list items before the car gets dropped off for the intercooler piping and exhaust fabrication work.
Looks buenoooo
Would you be able to PM a link for your OBD2 wire pin out. I have the my car running just with sensors so far. I haven’t been able to find pin outs for a functioning CEL yet for my code reader.
Coming along nicely!
I didn't bother making a pin out diagram or list. Here is what I did:
Speed Signal:
> Move pin 14 on the x20 chassis side harness to pin 9 on x20 chassis side harness (pin 9 was open and unused on my chassis harness).
CEL:
> Move pin 8 on x20 chassis side harness to pin 1 on x20 chassis side harness (pin 1 was open and unused on my chassis harness)
> Relocate pin 1 on x6031 engine harness (gray wire in my harness) to pin 1 on x20 engine harness (pin 1 was open and unused on my engine harness).
I followed this video from RKTunes (https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=eX7Qhr5WaFI) and found an OBD2 conversion guide from 22RPD that specifies the same wiring connections. Also used this thread for reference:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-connectors%85
Before moving any pins, unlock the locking ring within the connector. I used a small flat head screw driver. See below, which is an image taken from another BFC thread, showing the ring.
For the male pins, I used needle nose pliers and gently pulled up on the pin to release it. Then pushed the pin back down and through the pin slot in the connector. There are videos on Youtube showing this procedure.
For the female pins, I used a Deutsch 114010 Extraction Tool (https://www.amazon.com/DEUTSCH-11401.../dp/B018CORE86). There are other pin removal tools available but this one fits perfectly for the pins in the x20 and x6031 connectors. I would buy two because the plastic can deform and/or break easily.
The car has now been towed to the shop that will be completing the exhaust and intercooler fabrication work. I spent the last few months tidying things up. I ended up getting a Zionsville "compact" competition radiator which has the coolant expansion tank on the driver's side, thereby eliminating the clearance issue with the turbo compressor cover. I also drained the fuel tank, added E85, and revised the location of the fuel pressure gauge since it would have obstructed the cold side charge pipe. Here are some photos to document the progress. Shout out to E36Hater for torqueing the crank bolt and checking things over for me.
Hopefully the car will be running within the next few weeks. I'm only about 5 months behind "schedule"
Sweet build!
I have something very similar coming up. I wanted to know where you got that heat shield! Great progress and definitely following this!
Do you mean the heat shield for the valve cover? If so, it's from 22RPD (https://www.22rpd.com/shop/product/72). They make an OBD2 unit (the one I purchased, which has an ///M logo cutout) and OBD1 unit with no cutout. I had a fabricator tack on a stainless steel backing plate behind the ///M cutout so that I could have it powder coated the ///M colors.
For that I used DEI Floor & Tunnel Shield II (https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engine...omotive&sr=1-1).
Very very nice!
E36 M3 S50 - E53 X5 M54 - 1980 Porsche 931 - 2001 Impreza RS25
any idea on when it will be back? turning out awesome!
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