suspension refresh and prep for RF kit - advice on what to have before starting

[pwhitt]

hello forums - forgive me, believe it or not i have done some digging and searching through the forums, and i'm going to ask anyway...

the motor has gotten a clean bill of health and i'm either going to be supercharging it, OR i'm giddy to say, i'm considering an LS swap in a couple years... i'll have to figure out emissions for that. the point is, i'm looking to set the suspension, beef up the rear end and get it ready for more abuse.

After accumulating some feedback, I'm collecting the parts list and costs in the list below, editing as I change it or add hardware.

The Forbes kit is in the mail.

Everything ordered:

• TC Kline SA coilover kit, 400/500 springs http://www.tcklineracing.com/index.c...&Calculate=Yes - installed, front springs were ~1/4" lower than OEM, TCKline provided springs that are 1/2" taller, installed
• Meyle front strut mounts (2x) 31336779613 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-31331092885my - installed
• OE front strut reinforcement plates (2x) 31312489795K https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...-pair/?pdk=AQE - installed
• OE front strut mount gaskets (2x) 31331094288 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/31331094288/ - installed
• Meyle front lower control arm (left) 31126758513MY https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...-duty-upgrade/ - installed
• Meyle front lower control arm (right) 31126758514MY https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2...-duty-upgrade/ - installed
• Powerflex front control arm mounts (reusing my old ones - less than 5k miles on them) - installed
• Powerflex front sway bar bushings (2x) PFF5-310-27x2 https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...y-bar-bushing/ - installed
• Meyle front sway bar end links (2x) TMS2272 https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2...-325i-328i-z3/ - installed
• Lemforder tie rod ends (left) 32111139315 https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...sembly-e36-z3/ - installed
• Lemforder tie rod ends (right) 32111139316 https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...sembly-e36-z3/ - installed
• Lemforder rear sway bar end links (2x) 33551135307 https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...ti-e34-e32-z3/ - installed
• IE rear subframe bushings (2x) Z3eurearsbfrmmount http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item...bfrmmount.html - installed
• OE rear trailing arm bushings (2x) 33329061945 https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...-e30-318ti-z3/ - installed
• Dorman dual ear diff cover 697-550 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KL92NN2...v_ov_lig_dp_it - installed
• Diff cover gasket 33111211708 https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...ential-gasket/ - installed
• Diff cover bolts and washers (4x) 07119908569 https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2...uine-bmw-part/ - installed
• Diff cover bolts and washers (4x) 07119903068 https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2...uine-bmw-part/ - installed
• Diff cover bolts and washers (8x) 07119904201 https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...uine-bmw-part/ - installed
• Speedo pulse generator 62168357020 https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...-z3-e30-325ix/ - reused old one
• Speedo o-ring 33111210739 https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...sensor-o-ring/ - installed
• Diff drain gasket 07119963355 https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-348476-tms348476/ - did not remove the one that came in the cover
• Axel seals (2x) 33107505602 https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...l-priced-each/ - did not need
• Diff side o-rings (2x) 33111214144 https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2...uine-bmw-part/ - did not need
• Driveshaft flange nuts (4x) 26111227843 https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...uine-bmw-part/ - installed
• Sound deadener 51488165271 (not ordered yet)

extraneous - might do at same time:

• OE guibo [link] $126
• driveshaft carrier [link] $20
• total $146

thanks for any advice, guidance, suggestions, corrections, or whatever you've got - throw it my way.

[rasmuw]

I really like the Koni Sport shocks and struts I put on my M Roadster. Perhaps I'm biased because I changed from lowered springs (H&R) and Bilstein B8 which I found to be bone-jarring on roads north of Washington DC. I've set the shocks to the softest setting and still find them firm but far more compliant. With the Rogue RSMs it will be fairly easy for you to remove the shock to dial in what setting you prefer. The front struts are externally adjustable, and you have the added convenience of a complete strut rather than the inserts supplied for M's.

[Muzz258]

Ho many miles on the car? Do you need to add control arms to the front list?

Talk to people who have the Poly RTAB's about squeaks. Maybe rubber RTAB's are the answer?

[solimans]

Something here might be useful?

New bushings / Sway bars / End links
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...5&share_type=t


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[raubritter]

I'm doing this right now- Meyle control arms (with metal, instead of rubber isolated, ball joints), swaybar bushings + endlinks, M3 centered control arm bushings, etc.

Just a couple of ideas: the stock control arm bushings allow a lot of play (slop) in the steering and could be the main reason for 'tramlining.' I was amazed when I saw how flexible they are... they're mostly air. You can get the solid rubber M3 ones to press in yourself, or already pressed in lollipops on ebay. I know they are going to make a huge difference in steering feel...

Also, you might want to check your swaybar bushing brackets in the front (the ones that hold the big rubber bushings and swaybar to the body). I found that mine had quite a bit of rust on the inside part (not surprising, I guess- it's shaped like a cup so probably traps water). I didn't want to order more parts and wait around so I sanded/scraped out the rust as best I could and primed and painted.

Personally I really disliked the stock shocks... the car's handling was boat-like. If you don't want to go for an adjustable (AST, TC Kline, etc) type suspension, at least upgrade the soft stock shocks. Konis are great, and now Bilstein has more of a range available (used to be just sport, which were too hard and jarring)- now they have B4 (like stock), B6 (???), and B8 (sport). Anyway if you care about handling, upgrade at least the shocks...

[pwhitt]

I really like the Koni Sport shocks and struts I put on my M Roadster. Perhaps I'm biased because I changed from lowered springs (H&R) and Bilstein B8 which I found to be bone-jarring on roads north of Washington DC. I've set the shocks to the softest setting and still find them firm but far more compliant. With the Rogue RSMs it will be fairly easy for you to remove the shock to dial in what setting you prefer. The front struts are externally adjustable, and you have the added convenience of a complete strut rather than the inserts supplied for M's.

THanks for input - I've been looking at Koni and wondered about comfort. One thing I'm concerned about are the rough roads in New England... Your ride height is stock?

Ho many miles on the car? Do you need to add control arms to the front list?

Talk to people who have the Poly RTAB's about squeaks. Maybe rubber RTAB's are the answer?

133k miles on the odometer. I replaced the front control arms (LCAs) and lolipops about 8 years ago, but they've only seen 2-3k miles. I can't imagine they need any attentions, but I entertained it because... hey, I'm replacing everything else... For now I'm planning to leave them as-is - they are powerflex poly.

You're correct - the squeaks are a concern, thanks for the reminder. I'll plan for poly SFBs and rubber elsewhere.

Something here might be useful?

New bushings / Sway bars / End links
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...5&share_type=t


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes sir - the torque specs provided in that thread are great.

[Schreier]

I found it was much easier to reinstall everything if the driveshaft was removed during the tear-down, which gives you a prime opportunity to replace the universal flex disc (giubo), and potentially the dive shaft center carrier (26121229089).

[MartyBtoo]

If you are looking for ride comfort, a set of Koni single adjusts set to one full turn from full soft are the ticket. The car rides much smoother than stock. The OEM shocks on my car were dead by 40K miles (fronts were leaking, rears were pogoing badly); the Konis I replaced them with are still going strong with an additional 65K miles on the car.

Marty

[rasmuw]

THanks for input - I've been looking at Koni and wondered about comfort. One thing I'm concerned about are the rough roads in New England... Your ride height is stock?

Yes, my ride height is stock.

[mpire]

I'm pretty happy with the Koni yellows and the H&R Springs.

I have my GC and TCK coilovers in boxes now waiting for the future or the garage sale. I'm not sure which way I will go.

I don't like the bilstiens.

[pwhitt]

I'm doing this right now- Meyle control arms (with metal, instead of rubber isolated, ball joints), swaybar bushings + endlinks, M3 centered control arm bushings, etc.

Just a couple of ideas: the stock control arm bushings allow a lot of play (slop) in the steering and could be the main reason for 'tramlining.' I was amazed when I saw how flexible they are... they're mostly air. You can get the solid rubber M3 ones to press in yourself, or already pressed in lollipops on ebay. I know they are going to make a huge difference in steering feel...

Also, you might want to check your swaybar bushing brackets in the front (the ones that hold the big rubber bushings and swaybar to the body). I found that mine had quite a bit of rust on the inside part (not surprising, I guess- it's shaped like a cup so probably traps water). I didn't want to order more parts and wait around so I sanded/scraped out the rust as best I could and primed and painted.

Personally I really disliked the stock shocks... the car's handling was boat-like. If you don't want to go for an adjustable (AST, TC Kline, etc) type suspension, at least upgrade the soft stock shocks. Konis are great, and now Bilstein has more of a range available (used to be just sport, which were too hard and jarring)- now they have B4 (like stock), B6 (???), and B8 (sport). Anyway if you care about handling, upgrade at least the shocks...

I didn't know about Meyle control arms - that sounds attractive. I've got centered poly control arm bushings - that should work with the Meyle arms... I'll look into that - thanks!

I'll also add the sway bar bushings & brackets to the list. I've read about Bilstein's available range, but have seen so many negative reviews I'd written them off... I'll compare the B4 to the Konis and see what I find...

I found it was much easier to reinstall everything if the driveshaft was removed during the tear-down, which gives you a prime opportunity to replace the universal flex disc (giubo), and potentially the dive shaft center carrier (26121229089).

That is an excellent idea - thank you sir.

If you are looking for ride comfort, a set of Koni single adjusts set to one full turn from full soft are the ticket. The car rides much smoother than stock. The OEM shocks on my car were dead by 40K miles (fronts were leaking, rears were pogoing badly); the Konis I replaced them with are still going strong with an additional 65K miles on the car.

Marty

I am the second owner, and it looked like the suspension had been refreshed at about 60k - some things under the body were not like the others... It's worth saying that before I parked it for it's long storage, I'd gone half way through this - having replaced the LCAs, RSMs, etc... this was all on the list of things to do, but life kinda got in the way. It's not terrible now, but noticeably sloppy... it definitely needs help, especially if I'm adding power.

I'm pretty happy with the Koni yellows and the H&R Springs.

I have my GC and TCK coilovers in boxes now waiting for the future or the garage sale. I'm not sure which way I will go.

I don't like the bilstiens.

Yep - haven't heard anything bad about the Konis... Did you only try the Bilstein sports? Survey seems to indicate I should go with Konis...

Keep it coming - Bimmerforums rocks!

[pwhitt]

I'm putting together brands, will be collecting pricing. Here's the present status:

Current status of my list - front end:

• Meyle lower control arms (will re-use my powerflex poly mounts)
• Koni adjustable struts
• Powerflex sway bar bushings
• Lemforder tie rod ends
• spring perches, etc, etc, etc

rear end:

• Mr Forbes' kit
• Meyle sway bar end link
• Koni adjustable shocks
• IE rear subframe bushings
• etc, etc, etc

extraneous:

• guibo
• driveshaft carrier
• thorough cleaning and undercoat, paint, etc, etc, etc

[raubritter]

Just a thought I had while doing control arms- if you could do engine mounts at the same time, it would make dealing with the inner ball joints on the control arms a lot easier... I did my engine mounts a few months ago, and now doing the control arms I realized how nice it would be to have the engine mounts and engine pedestals up out of the way... They are right in the way of wrenching on the inner ball joint nut.

You'd have to use one of those bar things that go above the engine, so you could safely raise and suspend the engine (as opposed to the 'jack up under the oil pan' method I used). Anyway if you have the original engine mounts, I bet yours are hardened and shrunken (and possibly cracked). Would be a great time to change those too! I used Lemfoerder stock-type rubber mounts.

Another thing, since you'll be taking exhaust off, probably want to have new gaskets and nuts for the flanges on hand.

Please post info about what undercoat, paint, etc you are going to use... I'm going to need to do that too.

[Schreier]

I'm pretty happy with the Koni yellows and the H&R Springs.

I have this same setup now, and I really like it. Not too harsh, not too low, not too many settings to fiddle with, and not too expensive. Noticed it greatly improved front-end stability at highway speeds, with a little compromise to rear-end stability at the limit.

Then again if you are in need of more-than-average comfort due to back issues, I would advise against it.

Note that it's really hard to install the factory spec springs on the Konis because of the shape of the lip on the spring perch, and the fact that it seemed to be designed with lowering springs in mind. It's not possible to compress them with your standard autozone-rental mcpherson compressors, and you really need a professional stand-up machine to do them. There might be a lower-cost machine to compress the spring more safely, but I felt much better taking these to a professional shop to assemble.

[pwhitt]

I'm now just updating the top post when I add parts. I'm linking to part, listing cost, and tallying as I go.

Just a thought I had while doing control arms- if you could do engine mounts at the same time, it would make dealing with the inner ball joints on the control arms a lot easier... I did my engine mounts a few months ago, and now doing the control arms I realized how nice it would be to have the engine mounts and engine pedestals up out of the way... They are right in the way of wrenching on the inner ball joint nut.

You'd have to use one of those bar things that go above the engine, so you could safely raise and suspend the engine (as opposed to the 'jack up under the oil pan' method I used). Anyway if you have the original engine mounts, I bet yours are hardened and shrunken (and possibly cracked). Would be a great time to change those too! I used Lemfoerder stock-type rubber mounts.

Another thing, since you'll be taking exhaust off, probably want to have new gaskets and nuts for the flanges on hand.

Please post info about what undercoat, paint, etc you are going to use... I'm going to need to do that too.

Excellent point regarding the engine mounts - I remember that being a PIA... I'm probably not changing the motor mounts yet, as I'm still on the fence on a conversion in a couple more years. I am going to admit this though - I thought, what the hell, I'll change them anyway, and went to Turner to check the prices. You've got to be kidding me! $800?!?!?!? Did I make a wrong turn? The motor mounts are $800?!?!? Good god, wtf? That makes me scared to take them out - I'll just work around them again this time too.

Regarding the undercarriage & paint, I've been thinking about POR-15: https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Rubberized-Under-Coating

Any reason not to use Rustoleum on the general metal bits?
Though I have to admit I haven't done a significant amount of research... this made the list for coating my Jeep's frame, though I haven't done it yet.

I have this same setup now, and I really like it. Not too harsh, not too low, not too many settings to fiddle with, and not too expensive. Noticed it greatly improved front-end stability at highway speeds, with a little compromise to rear-end stability at the limit.

Then again if you are in need of more-than-average comfort due to back issues, I would advise against it.

Note that it's really hard to install the factory spec springs on the Konis because of the shape of the lip on the spring perch, and the fact that it seemed to be designed with lowering springs in mind. It's not possible to compress them with your standard autozone-rental mcpherson compressors, and you really need a professional stand-up machine to do them. There might be a lower-cost machine to compress the spring more safely, but I felt much better taking these to a professional shop to assemble.

Good to know re the springs, thanks. I'm not keen on dropping the ride height - I get the appeal, but I drive over roads that look like they've been through WWIII for 20% of my typical driving, and I just can't enjoy it if I'm dodging holes and trying to avoid scraping the bumper all to crap. I'm doing what I can to stay at stock height.

[rasmuw]

I don’t mind having the stock ride height, due to road conditions in northwest New Jersey and eastern Pennsylvania. An additional feature is that it is far easier to put it on a two post lift. I haven’t noticed any degradation of handling, but I’ll admit I don’t drive near the edge.

[raubritter]

Can I suggest you shop around a bit for these? Turner is pretty overpriced on a lot of stuff... The front sway bar end links seem like a typo, they should be only like $30 for a pair, not $80. Check out FCP Euro:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-31351091764my

They're great, prices are good, and the interesting thing about them is they will replace any part for free (you pay shipping) once you've bought it. So, say you replace some of these components in a few years again, you won't have to buy them again. Sounds too good to be true, and I wonder how this can work as a business model long-term, but anyway even ignoring that their prices are still good.

Also, whoa... not sure where you were looking for the engine mounts Should be about $100, not $800. Example:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-11812283798kt

Unfortunately they don't carry lemfoerder mounts, but I just wanted to illustrate that these should be much cheaper.

You can get the flex disc made by the OE company (SGF) for $50 if you don't want to get the official BMW one. Also, just a thought, but you might consider getting your driveshaft refurbished (will come with new center support bearing+housing, all installed and balanced). Maybe yours is fine, but it's an option... The BMW u-joints don't necessarily last forever. These guys are super fast:

http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/...0html/BMW.html

It might seem excessive, but an adjustable-height suspension will allow you to set the ride height however you want... Unfortunately I could never find aftermarket springs that would keep a stock-like ride height, so the choice comes down to either staying with the soft stock springs or get a height adjustable suspension (TC Kline, AST etc). It will give you more options to set up the car how you want...

[pine1000]

Steering shaft flex disc. This is commonly replaced on the E46 and people rave about what a difference it makes (it's east on the E46). However, it's not a common repair on the Z3 because you have to replace the whole shaft or at least remove the shaft and grind off some rivets to go with the E30 flex disc.

It made a big difference on my car in terms of on center steering feel and sensitivity.

[raubritter]

Steering shaft flex disc. This is commonly replaced on the E46 and people rave about what a difference it makes (it's east on the E46). However, it's not a common repair on the Z3 because you have to replace the whole shaft or at least remove the shaft and grind off some rivets to go with the E30 flex disc.

It made a big difference on my car in terms of on center steering feel and sensitivity.

I bet it does... It's something I'd like to do if I can figure out a plan.

Cool, so the E30 one works? People were speculating about that in the past here... There's no way to replace it with the shaft in the car? That blows. Is it difficult to take the shaft out?

I did a search on Realoem. Looks like the non-M3 E30 is the one you can get (part 12):

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=32_0480

part # 32311153993

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nt-32311153993

Is this the one you used?

I checked the E30 M3 page, but it looks to be like the Z3, with the disc riveted in place and not replaceable by itself.

[raubritter]

There's also this IE urethane steering shaft flex disc:



http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item...ercoupler.html

Has anyone tried that one?

[pine1000]

There's a thread here where someone replaced just the disc with the E30 part. I replaced the whole shaft. You do have to take the shaft out of the car either way.

It wasn't too hard, but I did it when the control arms were out of the car. I think that made it easier to access the lower bolt.

The OEM flex discs have steel wire molded in. So, even if the rubber completely deteriorates you will still have some measure of control. I'd be reluctant to try the urethane one for that reason.

There is a metal one as well: https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...BoCXRAQAvD_BwE

[fmcfad01]

There's also this IE urethane steering shaft flex disc:



http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item...ercoupler.html

Has anyone tried that one?

I think Gherry installed a hocky puck there back in the day...

[pwhitt]

Can I suggest you shop around a bit for these? Turner is pretty overpriced on a lot of stuff... The front sway bar end links seem like a typo, they should be only like $30 for a pair, not $80. Check out FCP Euro:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-31351091764my

...
Also, whoa... not sure where you were looking for the engine mounts Should be about $100, not $800. Example:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-11812283798kt

...

It might seem excessive, but an adjustable-height suspension will allow you to set the ride height however you want... Unfortunately I could never find aftermarket springs that would keep a stock-like ride height, so the choice comes down to either staying with the soft stock springs or get a height adjustable suspension (TC Kline, AST etc). It will give you more options to set up the car how you want..

Oh yeah - i know there are cheaper alternatives, I'm just trying to find a one-stop shop while I consolidate the list. THanks for the links, I've read about them here but haven't bought anything from them yet.

THe engine mounts I found were these:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...1812224413nkt/

They also carry the OE BMW rubber mounts for $100 a piece. That seems much more reasonable. I just couldn't fathom wtf was so special about the Group N mounts that look just like the bargain basement rubber parts. wtf?

I'm also on the fence regarding the motor mounts... I'm very seriously considering an LS swap in another year or two. Same with the driveshaft - I've got the carrier and guibo on the list because hey - if I can replace it for the cost, and I'm taking it half off anyway, I may as well, or might not - let's see when i get there. The motor mounts though - I don't know, it'd be a waste if I do the swap.

w/rt brands - If I'm not going for aftermarket poly parts, I lean toward BMW or whatever passes for OE (like Lemforder). The way I look at it, I can save tens of dollars a part, maybe a couple hundred over the whole project (which is certainly nice) but if something starts to fail in a couple years - I will be so, so, so, pissed off. Call it stupid brand loyalty - I agree... If I knew more, I might trust other parts.

Re adjustable suspension w/ aftermarket springs - can I really get a solid ride and stock ride height out of such a setup? It seems to me that they're all made to lower the car by 1" or more - are they tuned to perform well if at stock height??? Really curious about this - I might do it if so.

Steering shaft flex disc. This is commonly replaced on the E46 and people rave about what a difference it makes (it's east on the E46). However, it's not a common repair on the Z3 because you have to replace the whole shaft or at least remove the shaft and grind off some rivets to go with the E30 flex disc.

It made a big difference on my car in terms of on center steering feel and sensitivity.

I would love to - but this might not make it onto my list yet but it's good to see the discussion. I'm taking on a LOT considering other responsibilities on my plate. I'll be totally honest - I'll consider myself lucky if I get the rear end completely back together this winter. This is a giant project for me -let's keep it to suspension and bushings

[raubritter]

If you read the description about the $800 engine mounts, it says they are 'solid rubber-filled' as opposed to the hydraulic fluid filled types on other BMWs (and my Mini). But, our Z3s came with solid rubber ones to begin with, not hydraulic ones. My Mini uses hydraulic engine mounts. They start off stiff, and as they fail they become floppy garbage. Rubber ones would be an upgrade in that case. No idea what makes those group-n ones special, but anyway, if you want an 'upgrade' over the Z3 rubber mounts then go poly (not saying you should, I have no idea, but they would be stiffer).

Anyway I see your point about the engine swap- definitely no point to driveshaft or engine mounts then. But if you decide to supercharge instead, you'll have some ideas.

I'm with you 100% on brands- it really is important, because a lot of the aftermarket stuff is garbage and I also would be furious to have to redo some difficult thing because of a bad part. Plus, most of my reason for doing these things is to improve the car, not make it worse. I get Lemfoerder when possible, because they are as good as OE (sometimes they are OE). Some things I'll get the actual BMW part (especially sensors). In the case of the Meyle control arms, I like the idea of the metal ball joints as being more direct than the rubber mounted BMW-type, otherwise I would have got Lemfoerder there too.

Some places (like Turner-ECS-Pelican, all one company now) might charge more for the same parts than elsewhere... My 'one-stop-shop' is now FCP Euro.

Yes, the ride is actually better on the suspensions I listed (AST and TC Kline) even at stock ride height. Seriously. They have both much better performance and at least as good a ride as stock (if you adjust them to soft), and are adjustable in height and shocks. Of course, you pay a lot more. But in that case I think it's worth the investment, since what's the point of a Z3 without good handling... FYI, I keep my car at about stock height (tried the lowered H&R spring thing, and hence my question to you about undercoating Also why I went with quality adjustable after all that nonsense.

[pwhitt]

....
Yes, the ride is actually better on the suspensions I listed (AST and TC Kline) even at stock ride height. Seriously. They have both much better performance and at least as good a ride as stock (if you adjust them to soft), and are adjustable in height and shocks. Of course, you pay a lot more. But in that case I think it's worth the investment, since what's the point of a Z3 without good handling... FYI, I keep my car at about stock height (tried the lowered H&R spring thing, and hence my question to you about undercoating Also why I went with quality adjustable after all that nonsense.

OK - I compared pricing and it's not much more to go with a TCK single adjustable.

Dumb questions for the forum:

• I think I know the answer - If I'm keeping ride height about stock, I don't want the camber plates, do I?
• From what I've read, 350/450 springs are close to OE if not a little "sportier" - does that sound about right? Some are saying 100 or more both ends is about stock too...
• Ride height adjustment - I can't figure out if I need ride height adjusters [like these] or not... Does the standard kit arrive at your door ready to run at stock height?

I'll have to settle on this, update the list and do some comparison shopping. My car would be so screwed without this forum...