I have a 1995 E36 M3 that I only use to drive to the track (sebring / homestead), on the track and home from the track. I run a square setup with either Toyo proxes RR's or currently Nitto NT01's 255/40/17 on a Ground Control complete coil over street kit with koni struts/shocks, camber/caster plates at -2.8 camber at the front and -2.2 camber at the rear. Basically all bushings have been changed to poly bushings including engine mounts. About a year or 2 ago I had a driver coach tell me how during cornering he could feel my chassis flex. He did not recommend a fix he just mentioned it and said it was "a lot".
Everything I have read so far has said that the x brace is a great addition for enhancing chassis rigidity. I am between the Garagistic cross brace and the BMW X brace. Is there any major difference? If the price was identical is one clearly better than the other? If I can save $100+ would the garagistic cross brace be better value?
I am also considering the front strut brace. If I am buying a cross brace is the front strut brace worth it?
What handling characteristics should I notice oversteer vs understeer at high speed vs low speed corners?
I feel my car is pretty balanced but would like to dial some understeer out of the car if possible.
Thanks in advance!
Front end will definitely ‘stick’ better at turn-in with BMW Convertible X-Brace.
Your M3 may or may not have the rivet nuts pre-installed.
Garagistic X-Brace seems to tie-in differently, not sure it accomplishes the same level of stiffening with the forward mount locations so close together.
Don’t think you need the Strut Tower brace, doesn’t do much.
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 08-15-2019 at 01:50 AM.
My 95 had the riv-nuts from the factory. You can look to see if yours does.
I'd get the BMW x brace. Proven. And only a few bucks more than that garagastic thing.
FYI, With Toyo RR's, I'd run more than -2.8 front camber. (I run -3.8 and zero toe) That'll help with understeer.
Standard E36 advice since forever: everybody needs the X-brace. Non-negotiable, no ifs ands or buts.
After that, a non-hinged (not to be confused with unhinged...) strut tower brace ads some additional front end rigidity. Mine is a Mason fabricated aluminum, very stiff and weighs only 2-½ lbs or so.
Neil
Is there a difference between the Convertible and LTW version of the x brace? The only different versions I know of are the older ones that have the flat square piece that make changing the oil a bit of a mess and the newer version without it.
What are your thoughts on buying this particular part used vs new? There are plenty of used ones on ebay which are even freshly powder coated that look oh so pretty
Last edited by BeeHemDoubleU; 08-15-2019 at 10:52 AM.
I have the 'early X brace' the X isn't as off-set, which makes oil changes a bit of a mess as it just drips onto the x-brace and then it falls of the brace. But the brace has some extra gussets that maybe makes it more rigid.
like this one
TRM Coilovers 670F/895R | BBS LM | Corsa RSC36
When I took my car to get aligned I was told that I was maxed out with my current set up. What can I do in order to get more camber up at the front? I currently have this: https://groundcontrolstore.com/colle...es-and-z3-pair
Is my rear camber ok?
Last edited by BeeHemDoubleU; 08-15-2019 at 05:05 PM.
Yea, the 95s are camber challenged, even with camber plates. I added shims. Which are just washers. DIYs are everywhere, a quick google search returned this, which has pics of where to put the washers. Bimmerworld sells a fancy kit. FYI, longer bolts may be needed.
https://m3pink.blogspot.com/2011/12/...ic-camber.html
1995 Factory Guide Supports?
You could use 1996+M3 Guide Supports and flip them left-to-right, right-to-left.
Oppps, you have CPs.
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 08-15-2019 at 06:44 PM.
As far as camber advice https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...or-your-E36-M3 seems to me to have some good advice.
And I can say that my 95 M3 (11/95) build data has the nuts welded in from the factory for the x-brace. I cant tell you what difference the X-brace did for me because I installed it at the same time I did poly bushings but the car does seem significantly more sharp.
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