2000 Z3M Horrible Engine Noise After SC Installation

[Braymond141]

This is incorrect.

You do not want the VANOS spline to go all the way into the cam. You just want it to go in deep enough to mate the VANOS unit with the head. No further. I've seen VANOS pungers bind up when forced into the head. The engine runs like crap when this happens.

Correct, it needs to be turned clockwise towards the drivers side, but to start out, it must be as far counterclockwise as possible.

The timing pin should be able to stay in the motor the entire process.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

He's talking about install Hova. The upper timing chain gear set is turned all the way clockwise. The VANOS splined gear is drawn in by rotating the exhaust cam sprocket counter clockwise. That's when you lock down the exhaust sprocket.

There is a magic tooth position. It isn't enough to grab the "first tooth" blindly like every guide suggests. It is very hard to see on the S52 and needs to be marked with the splined gear off the vanos (when doing the rattle fix) or very carefully checked with a mirror during install (pain in the ass). If you do this correctly, what you said about plunger depth is no longer a concern. The only concern is using AIR TOOLS to actuate the VANOS back and forth, ending in the air on, power off position and then locking down the exhaust sprocket. Failure to do this correctly results in jammed VANOS code (aka timing is off).

Here is my video showing the S54 splined gear "magic tooth". The same exact precise alignment occurs with the S52 setup. You'll notice in the video a clear distinction between wrong, wrong, close, right, close, wrong, wrong. On the S54 you know it is 100% correct when you can fully insert, move all the way in, and pull all the way back out. If you were to remove the diaphragm spring in the S52 VANOS, you would see the same exact thing happen with the correct alignment.

https://youtu.be/1zE9l7DHv3k

[Braymond141]

When I installed it the first time, I had no clue that it matters. I just wiggled the gears around until they caught and then put it on. Actually, I took the TDC pin out of the block, and used a ratchet to turn the whole engine so that the timing gears would have enough movement to catch on the VANOS. I truly had no idea that there was any concern.

Yeah, NO.

[Domengo]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ACzOE7nV6g&t=601s

This is what I did. Skip to 15:14

[Hova]

He's talking about install Hova.

Fixed my post. It was a long day.

[Domengo]

Thanks for the information guys. Huge help.

I pulled codes off the engine:
P0443 - EVAP purge malfunction
P0306 - Cylinder 6 misfire (I could tell it had a misfire just from the way it ran)
P0206 - Cylinder 6 injector circuit open/injector malfunction

Engine wants to stall when I give it gas, too. Need to feather it gently to build RPM.

[Braymond141]

The injector code is likely something simple, like you didn't click the fuel electrical rail connectors down on the injectors all the way. Check them again.

[chikinhed]

Ive had the EVAP code before. If the valve connector is properly plugged in to the valve, try blowing out the line. You will have to disconnect both ends of the line before blowing it out with an air gun. The line can get clogged from over filling the gas tank.

[Domengo]

I found that the signal/power bar for the injectors was not installed securely. Number 6, being at the far rear of the block, was the loosest and therefore had no connection.

The EVAP code seems like a small issue. Maybe make the engine run rich but shouldn't cause a disaster. I will investigate as you have suggested, chikinhed.

Any idea why it stumbles on throttle? I need to gently increase throttle to get it to rev up. A sudden increase in throttle will cause it to stumble really bad.

Could the cable setup be incorrect? I currently have the throttle cable tightened so that it is perfectly taught. Any movement of the gas pedal will cause the throttle to open. Should it be set back a few turns so that there is a little bit of slack?

The car is still not road worthy at this point. Needs headlights and body parts reinstalled.

[chikinhed]

Tight throttle cable tension could possibly give you high idle rpm, not rough or stumbling acceleration.

You should do a boost leak check and fuel pressure check if you haven’t all ready. Make sure the vacuum line to the FPR is attached.

It may take a bit of driving for the ecu to adjust to your engine as it adjusts the long term fuel trims (LTFT) before you get smooth running.

[Braymond141]

It may take a bit of driving for the ecu to adjust to your engine as it adjusts the long term fuel trims (LTFT) before you get smooth running.

A properly built engine and tuning will run correctly from the get go.

[Domengo]

What does FPR stand for?

[Braymond141]

Fuel pressure regulator

If you test the fuel pressure, idle should be ~44psi with vacuum line attached to the FPR and 51psi with the line removed.

If you see numbers that deviate from that, you have a fuel/vacuum issue.

[Domengo]

I have no idea how to test fuel pressure, nor how to check for air/pressure leaks downstream from the supercharger.

I am sure I can find something on youtube.

[chikinhed]

Refer to the boost leak check sticky. Remove the air cleaner and install a cap on the intake pipe. Test to 15 psi spraying the intake with soapy water and check for bubbles everywhere on the induction side.

If you are obd2 you can get a schrader valve adapter to gauge fuel pressure tester kit that screws onto the schrader valve on the front of the fuel rail.

[Domengo]

Gentlemen,

I finally got around to finishing up the project on my Z3. To give a recap to you all, I was able to address the engine codes and got everything running well. The car has good power and is quite fast. I have only driven it about 5 miles/15 minutes, so I am unsure if there are any issues waiting to present themselves, but at this time it appears that everything is working fine.

One problem, though: There is no power steering. I am uncertain if this is because it is underfilled, or if the pump is trashed. When I first attempted to start the car, maybe 2-3 months ago, the throttle cable got stuck at full open and it redlined for a few seconds before I could kill the ignition. At the time, the PS system was completely empty. Could this incident have trashed the pump?

Secondly, you may recall the horrible noise that is in the title of this thread. Please have a look at the first post, it has been updated with a higher quality video that will exemplify the noise that I am describing... could that noise have been the power steering pump dying? As it is, now, the PS pump makes a rattling noise while the engine is running, which I would presume is really bad. But once again, idk if it just needs more PS fluid added to it (is it OK if I use ATF 3?)

Thirdly -- how does one go about bleeding the coolant system on a BMW radiator? Do you just fill it up and drive it around, or do you need to open a purge valve or something to relieve the trapped air?

Thank you for all of your input and assistance. I truly could not have figured things out without it.

[pbonsalb]

Have you bled the PS by turning it nearly full lock to nearly full lock multiple times and rechecking the level? I would do that first. Then consider the pump, unless you are sure the pump bearings are shot.

[Domengo]

The power steering reservoir was bone dry. I filled it up and the steering works. What a surprise.

[Domengo]

Hello all,

I have been driving the Z3 a little bit since the weather improved this year, and it has been going really well. It was throwing fuel trim codes for a little while, but I found/corrected a small vacuum leak and it has been running without issue ever since.

I have some questions, if you don't mind helping:

1) When starting the engine, the supercharger will occasionally make a loud "Clank!" Just once. I presume this sound is coming from the slack in the blower chain. If I remember correctly, the SC is designed with a little bit of slack in the chain because it tightens at higher RPMs. It seems to be striking at the moment the engine fires up. It happens more often when the engine is cold, sometimes doesn't happen at all. Is this unusual? Should I be concerned? If so, what can be done to correct the issue?

2) Can you guys recommend any tuning software for the ECU? I found the following video on youtube, seems to offer a lot of useful info: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ORFRzYLMJ34

I have never tuned a car before (except for tweaking carburetors from time to time) so I am anticipating a good amount of time invested just to learn. Can you recommend websites, forums, or tutorials which will help out with some of the basics?

My goal is to lean out the fuel mixture a little bit. The flash from VF Engineering is on the rich side.

[Braymond141]

Vortech superchargers are gear driven, not chain driven (lol).

Backlash in the gears is normal once broken in, but I don’t know what noise you are hearing.

[Domengo]

Vortech superchargers are gear driven, not chain driven (lol).

Backlash in the gears is normal once broken in, but I don’t know what noise you are hearing.

Thanks for clarifying that detail.

I will try to get a video with sound. It is a single, loud clank, sounds like metal on metal. Only happens at the moment when the engine fires up. It is intermittent. Maybe 30-40% of the time.

The supercharger is a little noisy on its own. rattles a bit at idle. Goes away under throttle. From what I have read, that much is pretty normal.