740i Sport Plus Build

[KinkedChrome]

56k Warning. Get you a sandwich and a drink.

1.) M62TU/5HP24-> S62/420g
2.) Steel Suspension -> Aluminum Suspension
3.) ????????
4.) Profit






My first plan of attack was to simply swap the entire front subframe assembly from an
M5 into my 740i. This would get me the steering box, the bigger sway bar and the
aluminum suspension all in one shot. The e39 and e38’s have the same physical bol
t pattern for their front subframes.

I ultimately decided against this for a few reasons. The first problem was that the
subframe pilots differently on the chassis. You can see in the pic below that the M5
frame expects an ID pilot on the front mounts and the 740i frame expects on OD pilot.

The E39 frame is on the left and the E38 on the right

​

You can see here how the pilot mis match on the M5 frame causes a height issue
since it does not slide into the chassis like the e38 subframe would.




This isn’t a deal breaker and could be easily fixed, but the real compromise comes
with the fact that the M5 has a smaller track width than the E38. You can see in
these pics that the control arm pickups are different. M5 on top, 740i below.










I initially considering compromising on this, but the strut towers on the M5 are also
narrower, by 31mm (~1.22in), according to the info I found on TIS. This reduces
the kingpin inclination angle, thus increasing camber, and by the time I had the
wheel and tires fitting the way I want, it would also result in a ridiculous scrub radius.
For a more invasive build, this could all be sorted out, but I don’t want to flex my
sawzall muscles on this project or have to start building custom control arms.
Maybe for example if you wanted to fit in a 530i subframe for a more serious engine swap.

Moving onto plan b, modify the e38 subframe to work with the M5 aluminum
components. After a few measurements, Im convinced that the M5 suspension
will all bolt into the e38 subframe without having to move any pickup points to
keep the geometry right. It all physically bolts in and the wheel is centered in
the fender. I haven’t measure the weight difference in the M5 vs 740i knuckles
and control arms yet, but they are noticeable different.


The aluminum M5 Struts are 8lbs lighter per side than the 740i sport struts.
If you have an E39 this may be something to keep in mind if you swap your
stockers for an aftermarket strut, which will likely be steel construction.
As far as I can tell all E39’s were equipped from the factory with aluminum bodied struts.

Turns out that I need to start a diet of my own.





If you look at this picture they are shorter than the e38 struts, but they
sit differently in the knuckles, so the ride height and clearance to the top
of the tire should stay mostly the same. I won’t know until I have the
engine in the car and on the ground. At first I built some collars to fit the
740 struts in the M5 knuckles, but they made the car sit way to high.
The E39 struts are also not sided like the E38’s are. I am slightly
concerned about spring rates, but with only a couple hundred pound
weight difference I think it will be fine.





You can see that the M5 struts just clear the tire, I may add a small spacer
in the bottom of the knuckle to give me a little more clearance depending
on where the final ride height ends up. I do want to run 275/40/18 square,
so I’ll pick up a little clearance since the overall diameter is a bit shorter
than the 235/50/18 on the Style 37. Or even if I ran 255/45/18 square,
it’d still be a little shorter.


​

For the hubs, I just turned them down the 72.6mm bore size, but e60
hubs could be fitted just as easy.

The struts do lack sway bar endlink mounts as they are attached via a
bracket that bolts onto the knuckle for all E39s. Despite the fact that
sport model 740i’s were fitted with a larger 22mm sway bar over the
standard 20mm and will work with the new M5 parts, I want the 27mm
bar from the M5. I don’t have one yet, so this will have to wait until I get one.

The M5 sway bar bushing mounts are narrower by about 3/4in, but
I think there is enough meat in 740’s mounts and bushings to trim
them down and fit the narrower bar. So long as the sway bar will fit
around the rest of the subframe. I’ll likely need to machine new sway
bar brackets on the knuckles to accommodate the narrower endlink
locations to keep the geometry correct.

Fitting the M5 steering box proved to be a little bit more complicated matter.
The M5 was furnished with a shorter ratio steering box that none of the
others cars got, ~3:1 vs 4:1.

It seems that fitting an E39 M5 steering box has been done and documented.
However, my experience conflicts with some of the information that I found.
Some info says that two mount points line up and only a third mount would
need to be modified. It was my experience that all three locations would
need modification. The mount on the M5 box closest to the steering input
is in the correct axial position, but was in the wrong lateral location as seen
below. My measurement says that 10mm needed to be machined off of this
mount, for a total boss width of 30mm.





M5 Steering Box mocked up in E38 subframe





E38 Steering Box in E38 Frame









Once this was done, the forward most mount that sets the angle of the
steering box could almost bolt in. However, the angle of the box was
not right. So i took a few measurements and put the m5 box back into
the mill. I had to machine off 7mm from that mount for a total thickness
of 15mm. Since I did not redrill the steering box bolt hole or machine the
flange to match the new angle, the hole in both the steering box and the
subframe had to be filed slightly for the bolt to fit right. If the subframe
was not a steel fabricated unit, I would have taken the time to make it
match, but it would have been a lot of additional work to set that up.


E38 Front Mount




E39 Front Mount




Original Flange Thickness. I machine this to 15mm





For reference here is the e38 box sitting in the e39 subframe. You can see where the frame expects a wider boss to mate up





The last mount was not even close. I considered making an adapter of
some sort, but I ultimately decided that cutting the mount off and
relocating it was the best course of action. No ‘gram worthy welds here,
but they ought to do the trick. There was a hole in the mount that
I considered leaving in the stock location, but I couldn't remember
what it was for, so I just cut it off and it came along for the ride.













If I had to do this all over again, I think that’d I chose to try and fit the guts
of the M5 box into the e38 box. This has been documented and I’d likely
approach it in a similar manner, but instead of building a sleeve out of a
sacrificial m5 box, I’d just machine a part from new to fit in. This way the
box could be installed without having to drop the subframe if a guy still
had the engine in their car.

The scope for the front stops at the brakes. I’d like to fit lighter weight
brakes on the car, but that will be down the road a bit. With aluminum
calipers and rotor hats. It’s probably worth 10lbs per side.

That’s all for now. I never weighed the car before I started so I’ll never
know the true weight savings, but my goal weight for the car is 3900lbs
with a half tank of fuel. Next up is confirming the sway bar fitment and
getting the rest of the steering and suspension buttoned up. Then finally
I can get onto putting the new drivetrain in. My S62 has been in front of
my work bench for months now and is driving me crazy, but I just didn’t
have any where else to put it. I guess it was good motivation to work on all of this.

[SoCalJuan]

I'll be following your progress. I too want to have an e38 I can track. As far as weight savings, I've only considered removing non-essential luxuries (electric seats in favor of manual adjustment, removal of headlight washer mechanism, fog lights, stereo/nav system).
Not sure if you've considered performing an LS swap instead of an S62. I would imagine a weight difference in the systems needed to run each.

[KinkedChrome]

I'll be following your progress. I too want to have an e38 I can track. As far as weight savings, I've only considered removing non-essential luxuries (electric seats in favor of manual adjustment, removal of headlight washer mechanism, fog lights, stereo/nav system).
Not sure if you've considered performing an LS swap instead of an S62. I would imagine a weight difference in the systems needed to run each.

The plan for this isn't really a track car, but more like trying to see how many factory parts I can use to improve performance. I didn't consider an LS swap for this. It would definitely be a more light weight solution and be capable of more power, but that swap would be much more involved. The S62 swap is much more plug and play by comparison, with the only downside being the cost/power.

I'll be keeping most of the luxuries it came with factory. The factory radio is very heavy, so if I find out the old non-navigation system is not as heavy, I'll swap in one of those. Not sure what I'll do with the seats yet, by some reports 80lbs each.

[acspecialists]

I'll be watching as well. I have already had my car to the track several times and you would be surprised how well it does. I take it out and run it at the track and the track tells me what I need to work on next. Making systematic improvements and testing them at the track is very rewarding. As far as weight my E38 is only about 400lbs off of what my E60 M5 weighs. The 200hp difference is what really lowers the laps times. The brakes and suspension are close but I did just upgrade the M5 pads so I expect a huge gain there. I get a lot of compliments from guys at the track for running my E38. As you have figured out the drive to and from the track is divine as well. You can't say that about a stripped out track car.

The M5 steering box is on the list now. I can get around just fine but a better steering ratio would make the job easier.

[KinkedChrome]

I'll be watching as well. I have already had my car to the track several times and you would be surprised how well it does. I take it out and run it at the track and the track tells me what I need to work on next. Making systematic improvements and testing them at the track is very rewarding. As far as weight my E38 is only about 400lbs off of what my E60 M5 weighs. The 200hp difference is what really lowers the laps times. The brakes and suspension are close but I did just upgrade the M5 pads so I expect a huge gain there. I get a lot of compliments from guys at the track for running my E38. As you have figured out the drive to and from the track is divine as well. You can't say that about a stripped out track car.

The M5 steering box is on the list now. I can get around just fine but a better steering ratio would make the job easier.

Yeah, I was reading through your thread on tracking the car. That is awesome. Are you saying that the M5 is heavier or lighter than your e38? I keep finding conflicting info on what weighs what.

[rslifkin]

An E60 M5 is a hair heavier than an E39 M5 (less than 100 lbs difference). Both are a bit lighter than a short wheelbase E38 740i. E39 M5 is about 225 lbs lighter, E60 M5 is about 160 lbs lighter. Of course, weight does vary a bit depending on options, so curb weight isn't a perfect answer. And remember that BMW's curb weight specs include approximately 160 lbs worth of driver.

[KinkedChrome]

An E60 M5 is a hair heavier than an E39 M5 (less than 100 lbs difference). Both are a bit lighter than a short wheelbase E38 740i. E39 M5 is about 225 lbs lighter, E60 M5 is about 160 lbs lighter. Of course, weight does vary a bit depending on options, so curb weight isn't a perfect answer. And remember that BMW's curb weight specs include approximately 160 lbs worth of driver.

Thanks for the info. I didn' t know that about the curb weight specs. Makes everything that much more difficult to decipher. I'm just going to have to get my hands on a set of corner weight scales and just sort it out myself.

[KinkedChrome]

I’m waiting on a sway bar and some other odds and ends to come in so in the mean time I sorted out the fabrication that is needed for the 6 speed swap. As many of you probably know, the euro oe shift linkage parts for this swap are no longer available. Which leaves me no choice but to spend double or triple the time and effort that is actually required to come up with something that will work.

I briefly considered ordering up a cornucopia of shift carriers and selectors to see if there were any other OEM parts out there that would work. After a couple hours on real oem and searching for pics to try and reverse engineer measurements off of, I lost interest in that and just decided to slice and dice. Here are a few pics for reference in case you happen to have some other oe parts around to compare to.












In the lot of drivetrain parts I bought, it had a Rogue Engineering selector rod. I'm not super stoked about the way its designed, but it does make it easy to lengthen. Its designed such that there are two machined parts attached to the ends of a machined rod. The only stock I had around in the size required was some 17-4 stainless steel that had been heat treated to an h900 condition. It was not terrible to machine, but it was an absolute bear to tap. I broke a cheap import tap and an expensive cobalt tap in the process. I just hope the bolts holding the ends on don't come loose. I filled them full of red lock tight, but I'm thinking I may just weld them up to be sure. Otherwise, the Rogue parts are nicely machined.













For the shift carrier, I machined up a little jigsaw puzzle piece to fit in the I-beam section of the casting. It turned out kind of slick and I welded up the part with no problem, although my aluminum welding skills are nothing to write home about.






















I also cut the brake pedal down to size and started working on getting the master cylinder installed.




I'm just waiting on a few parts to come in and then I'll finally be able to get the motor installed.

[KinkedChrome]

I weighed the stock knuckle and controls arms of e39 and the e38. Just over 5lbs difference per side. With the struts, that is a savings of 13lbs of unsprung weight per side or a total of 26lbs.

My M5 sway bars came in. The 27mm bar is 5lbs heavier over the stock 22mm sport sway bar. It is also 2.63in shorter than the e38 bar. No surprises there. It does physically bolt into the e38 subframe. However, the bushing mounts are really close to rubbing, so I trimmed a little bit off of each bracket for a little piece of mind.










On the e39’s the endlink bolts onto a mount that is on the knuckle instead of on the strut like on e38s. An aftermarket endlink might have enough mis align in it to deal with the length delta, but seems like a sloppy solution. So to make up for the difference in length in the sway bars, I machined new a new endlink bracket that extends farther out so that the endlinks keep the factory geometry. I’m not very happy with the way that it turned out, so I’m going to re-make them.





That is the last of the suspension stuff that needs to get done before the engine goes in. Onto dressing the engine bay. Instead of cutting up the e38 heater valve bracket. I ordered up the e39 heater valve brackets. They came raw, I drilled a few holes in them, deburred and painted them up. I attached them to the chassis with a few nutserts.





Next up is making some plugs for the secondary air inlets, mounting the power steering reservoir and oil filter housing bracket, and then maybe I can finally get this engine in. So close yet so far away.

[KinkedChrome]

I’m back with lots of updates and tidbits. I ran into a major time crunch and really had to focus to get the car on the road. I had committed to taking the car on a road trip for a wedding. I had to be in Las Vegas on Sept 26 by 11am for a golf game, and I don’t even really like golf. I put everything on the sidelines until the car was done. Most of my life is in complete disarray but I did finish the car in time to make it to Las Vegas and back under its own power. I’ll be taking a break from working on the car for a while, but in the meantime I have 2 months worth of work to share. Most of which are on the S62 swap. There are a handful of threads already on the S62 swap that include a lot of info, so I’ll try to focus on some of the little things that were not mentioned in those threads.

I last left off with the suspension needing a bit more work. I was working on building a completely new endlink mount. I decided against this after bumping into a set of 530i endlink mounts that I had around from my failed big block swap project. They place the endlink farther inboard, but use a different style endlink. They holes on them were very close to bolting up also. I just redrilled the holes and ordered up some 530i endlinks. The new location is not perfect, the location could move in another .25in or so and it’d be perfect, but this location will work just fine for now until I have some time to make a custom set.



I also learned that I needed to use M5, or 540i, tie rods with the new knuckles. They are the same as the E38 tie rods except that the thread is longer on the tape to accomodate for the thicker mount location. I ordered those up and they fit nicely.

The last thing to completely button up the suspension is the headlamp level sensor arm. You must use the E38 link arm on the E39 control arm. The sensor mounts in a different orientation on the E39s, but the E38 clips to the E39 control arm just fine and bolts in.

Long story short on the front suspension:
E39 M5 Parts:
Knuckles
Speed Sensor
Brakes
Control Arms
Sway Bar
Sway Bar bushing
Tie Rods
Strut and strut mount

E39 I6 Parts:
Redrilled or Custom Endlink brackets
Sway Bar Endlinks

E38 Parts:
Steering Centerlink
Headlamp Level arm and sensor
Modified Pad Wear bracket

I also bought a 22mm E53 X5 rear sway bar, but there was no time to fit that before the trip, so thatll sit on the side lines for a while, but I think it will be a much better length than the E39 rear sway bars in terms of not putting the rear endlinks at a bad angle.


I should have just skipped the suspension and steering stuff, it would have put me in way less of time crunch, but with everything out and apart, I just simply did not have enough will power to not mess with it.

With that all buttoned up and the car supporting its own weight, I just had this pile of parts to deal with. That pile of parts fought me every step of the way. Or really what I found out is that I’m not a professional, which I have to relearn every time I step foot into my garage.



I rented a pilot bearing puller from the local parts store. The jaws did not have enough bite to pull the bearing, so a little filing and they worked like a charm



First hang up, bolting the flywheel on the car. This engine either didn’t have a dowel pin for the crank and flywheel bolt pattern or I lost it when taking the old one out. Knowing me, I kicked across the garage to never be seen again. In either case, I just decided to make one since I have a circle making machine. I didn’t have a flywheel wrench either, but clamping the engine down to my hoist and using a block of aluminum allowed me to get everything torqued down to spec..





Leaky rear main, which stupidly didn’t make it in my original parts order



I was finally able to get the engine bolted together and ready to install.



In the spirit of every ounce counts, this new shift rod joint, an OEM part number is aluminum instead of the steel part that come off of my trans



I don’t know how the rest of you get these engines in with prefacelift manifolds, but it was a bear for me to do. I had the steering box in place and I couldn’t figure out how to snake the engine in with the manifolds on without getting the engine wedged in the bay. I had to put the engine partially in, then put the manifolds on. I had to tighten the manifolds with the engine in the car. I was able to remove the engine with ease with the manifolds installed, and that still baffles me. Anyway, at this point the engine was in the car and it felt like a huge milestone. Next up: Wiring!

[haynes740]

Glad to see this project moving so far forward. Sounds like you will have a bit more time now. I’m finishing up my suspension project as well. Keep us all posted on this build.


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[racer2086]

Very cool! You have some mad machining skills, sir, and a great workshop.

[TxDarth]

I admire what you have done as well - excellent. I do have one question and maybe I missed something. In view of your other mods changing the mounts on the front subframe seems like it would have been a piece of cake for you. Was there another reason possibly?

[KinkedChrome]

Glad to see this project moving so far forward. Sounds like you will have a bit more time now. I’m finishing up my suspension project as well. Keep us all posted on this build.


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Very cool! You have some mad machining skills, sir, and a great workshop.

Thanks guys! Now that's its on the road I can catch up on some other stuff, but I have some more fun projects planned for it.

I admire what you have done as well - excellent. I do have one question and maybe I missed something. In view of your other mods changing the mounts on the front subframe seems like it would have been a piece of cake for you. Was there another reason possibly?

Yeah, it was about the same amount of work either way, but in the end I decided it was less risk just to modify the E38 subframe for the modified M5 steering box. I do want to go back and make some parts to make M5 parts fit in an e38 box so that I can use an unmodified subframe, but there is a lot of work tied up in that and I really needed to just get the car on the road.

[purplecty]

You have some serious skills! I'm tuned in...

[KinkedChrome]

One of the goals I had in the back of my mind was to do the S62 swap without having to cut a single wire. After studying the wiring diagrams I had it in my mind that this would be doable and I almost made it. I only cut 2 wires. I had to cut the ground wire for the oil pressure sensor to extend it to its new location and I cut a fuel pump relay wire to put the correct connector on the end to retrofit the M5 fuel pump relay module. No other cutting was required.

For all of the other wiring changes, I ordered up a ton of OEM BMW connectors, wires, and pins/ends. I was able to re-use existing wires and build adapter harnesses for the rest of the wiring changes. Not quite plug and play, since there was a decent amount of re-pinning required, but I feel like the average DIY guy can handle it with a little patience. I did buy a set of de pinning tools for this project, which I highly recommend. The kit I bought was $40 and came with a nice case, but while shopping I found some as low $10 and they probably work just as well. All the wiring could go back to stock without too much trouble if it had to.

I built 6 total, EWS, clutch cruise switch, sport switch, servotronic, fuel pump signal and cruise signal, and OBD/diagnostic wires. I really need to go back and clarify/organize my notes on this. I started with Blacknight530i’s DIY for the S62 swap in 540i’s. I did everything the same as he advised, with the exception of the starter relay. I removed pins 11 and 8 and built a little jumper harness/connector for them. Then I used a 30 amp fuse to jump pins 1 and 2. Yes this means that I dont have a clutch start interlock switch. I would like to add one in the future, but not sure how I want to do that yet.


I don’t have a lot of pictures of the wiring, but here are a few examples of the little adapter harnesses that I built.







It took a lot of staring at the wiring diagrams and pinouts to make sure that everything was right. While the info needed to make it work was outlined very well in blacknight’s thread, decisions still have to be made on which old wires to reuse. Chasing down the PNs for the right size pins and connectors was not a trivial task either, fortunately FCP and ECS have great pictures on their websites, so I was able to order with confidence. Most of the connectors all used the same pins, except for the sport button panel, it used a different style pin. To the naked eye they look identical, but if you look very closely, they are different. Most use female pin 61131393704, but on the switching center they use 61138369696.

I did have to run a short length of wire to run the servotronic from the DME instead of the general module, and since my glove box and interior was out for cleaning/repair, this was easy. I was able to reuse old wires for everything else though, sport button, OBD wires, etc. I definitely did not budget enough time for wiring and wiring research. However I feel like the end result was pretty awesome. I have definitely done some wire jobs in the past that I am not proud of, but this one I am actually quite proud of.

One little side note here, when I first tried to fire the engine, I kept blowing fuel pump fuses. As it turns out the two connectors by the driver side fender, one for the oil pressure sensor and the other for the fuel tank breather valve, will plug into each other. I had the breather valve connector plugged into the oil pressure sensor. Don’t do that or you’ll blow fuses and your fuel pump wont work. Frankly, it was a miracle that I even figured out that was the issue. Most of you are probably prudent enough to label everything when you take it apart, I however was not.

I also bought a bunch of new wire clips and things to replace the broken ones on the engine wire harness.





Last note on wiring related items, the factory DME cradle wont fit the S62 DME. It has to be removed or modified. I crudely modified mine. It still retains the DME with the spring clip and works, it just doesn’t look as nice as it could. I’ll be going back in the future to fix this. Other than all the hard stuff, the wiring for this project was easy.

[acspecialists]

Nice work. When I read wiring diagrams my brain starts to melt.

[KinkedChrome]

You have some serious skills! I'm tuned in...

Thanks! I have some other stuff I'm currently working on. I'm hoping to car a car that is on par with a modern sports sedan, at least in driving.

Nice work. When I read wiring diagrams my brain starts to melt.

Wiring is not my favorite either, but I was honestly quite impressed with how the BMW wiring diagrams are organized, definitely a step above other wiring diagrams that I have worked with.

[KinkedChrome]

With the wiring done and the engine in, I could finally start getting the thing looking like a car again. I was putting together the front end and accidentally grabbed the E39 M5 steering cooler and bracket. It is much larger than the E38 and the radiator bracket that holds the cooler bolts right into place. So that’s a nice little easy upgrade. Upon further research I also found that The non vanos m62 5 series had a transmission cooler that fits in that carrier also. The cooler is even larger and has fins on it. The PN is 17221740798. If you drive the absolute piss out of your E38 you may want to look into this, but there are probably not very many of us that put our E38’s through the ringer like that. So the stock M5 part will suffice for me. I’m holding the stock e38 cooler in my hand and you can see the M5 part in the car.







The front end went back together pretty fast. It had been apart for so long I was sure if I’d get it back together right, but it was pretty simple. I was able to make the stock M5 air tubes bolt up to the front of the car. I just had to move one of the plastic inserts to a different square hole and they bolted right up. I did have to trim the bumper frame for them to fit though. I hit the sharp edges with a file and it was good to go. Some of the driver side foam also had to be modified for them to fit.
















If you remove the plastic splash guards under the air boxes, the M5 air boxes will connect to them with minimal effort. My splash guards were in pretty poor shape, so I just trimmed them up to clear those inlet ducts. I’d like to go back and make some from aluminum or maybe even try to 3D print a set.

Mounting the M5 air boxes was relatively straight forward. I made an adapter bracket on the passenger side that was recycled from an old radio bracket I had around. It bolts to the stock location and the M5 box bolts to the bracket. This is also on the list to redo later, which is starting to turn into a long list. For the driver side, I cut off the portion of the stock M5 oil filter/PS mount that attaches to the air box. I used a nut sert to attach it to the body. On the topic of air intakes, it causes me mild discomfort every time I think about the different elbow lengths on the S62. It’s unclear to me why this decision was made, but building or buying a symmetric intake is definitely on the list of things to do. I briefly investigated using Z8 elbows since they appear to be symmetric, but judging by the pictures, I think they are too long to work with the
m5 air boxes. Not really sure how I will approach this yet, since I want something stock looking. I investigated using two rights or two lefts, but they have a slight curve in them after the 90 deg bend causing a poor fitment.
















Cutting up and fitting the hood was a bit of an ordeal, especially since at this point I was so crunched for time. I was set to leave in two days and I had one night in the shop to get it right. I was close, but it didn’t quite clear. So I called in a favor to the ol’ BFH and made it work. I taped over the seams with some gorilla duct tape and deemed it road worthy. Trevor gave me a few tips on the size of the clearance required, so when I redo the sheet metal I’ll implement his advice. In the one picture you can see where I put play dough to see if I was hitting.

















It really came down to the wire on whether or not I was going to have the car road worthy in time. The plan was for my buddy to fly in from Idaho so we could road trip the car from Phoenix to Las Vegas, but I’ll save that story for another post.

[clarkitect]

Nice work!

[KinkedChrome]

My new plates came in the mail.

And if you saw Haynes740 thread I also made a few new parts.

[KinkedChrome]

Edit: fixed above pics

[haynes740]

Oh yes thats them. I’m in the Grapevine and car handles flawlessly.


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[KinkedChrome]

"I know they look the same, but I swear honey, they are different and I need both of them"

If you thought this thread was filled with non sense before, just wait until you see what I'll be working on over the holiday.

[SoCalJuan]

I'm assuming the M5 rear subframe is the left one, since I can see a sway bar endlink. Wish I could do 1 thing you've accomplished to your ride. Very good work!