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Thread: BMW e39 520i M52b20 - clutch change

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    BMW e39 520i M52b20 - clutch change

    • Hello today I will show you a change of BMW clutch e39.


    • First, disassemble the battery cables. Wrench 13mm.


    • I dismantle the cover under the engine and the gearbox.


    • Here I undo the two 13mm clutch nuts on the clutch pump I also unbuckled the reversing sensor jack.
    • I dismantle the exhaust system and the shield above it to get better access to the driveshaft and the bearing.


    • Unscrew the Flex disc and Driveshaft Center Support bolts to be able to remove the driveshaft from the gearbox. The driveshaft bolts and nuts are 18mm and drive center support 13mm.


    • Remove the gearshift gear lever, push the pins up and pull it to the left. Sometimes he nails wildly. The other lever only removes the pin and pulls the lever.


    • Then remove the two starter bolts.


    • I dismantle the remaining seven - eight bolts, and there is a small bolt of 10mm, which is obligatory to develop if I want to remove the gearbox. There are also six bolts of 13mm that hold the box stand.


    • This is already the clutch I have to change.


    • With the clutch, disassemble the flywheel to see the condition of the crankshaft sealing under it.


    • After replacing the sealing preventively, I mounted the flywheel that I fastened with 120Nm and a threaded lock. The bolts were 18mm.
    • Here I have mounted and centered the new clutch I am tightened with 32Nm.


    • We mount everything on the way back, and if it's okay for three hundred miles an hour, we go to the beer store. This is the whole procedure. Bye and next time.

    New blog for repair and engagement of all types of cars https://mechanicus89.blogspot.com/

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    E39 530i, Ford Territory
    Nice thread & nice gearbox jack.......just wondering if you support the rear of the engine or are the engine mounts good enough to hold it without stressing them to much?

  3. #3
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    There is no problem of shaking, so far there was no problem

    New blog for repair and engagement of all types of cars https://mechanicus89.blogspot.com/

  4. #4
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    You need to revise the battery disconnect part. For safety reasons always disconnect the negative lead first.
    If your wrench hits any metal it could weld itself to the metal which could blow up the battery.

  5. #5
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    In this case you are right because the battery is in a bad place, but for the other places I prefer to always remove the positive cable. Otherwise, a short circuit is required to get the battery over.

    New blog for repair and engagement of all types of cars https://mechanicus89.blogspot.com/

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    Shreveport Louisiana
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    1999 5281
    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    You need to revise the battery disconnect part. For safety reasons always disconnect the negative lead first.
    If your wrench hits any metal it could weld itself to the metal which could blow up the battery.
    he beat me to it...as usual. the open end part of the wrench is just a hair from shorting to ground. if it rocks on the nut, el sparko grande.
    Last edited by mattmar1; 06-27-2019 at 06:39 PM.

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