Replacing oil return line

[Bruhbrahbrad]

Hi all, I need help replacing the oil return hose on my 540i. Its broken where the rubber meets the metal line underneath the valve cover, I went to pick and pull today to try and pull one and got the bolt out of the oil pan, but could not maneuver the hose out.. Has anyone had to do this before? I cant find anything at all! diag_sc.png

#15 is the hose im talking about! Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[collardgreens]

Number 18 looks like a nut holding the bolt from inside the oil pan, looks to me like you’d need to drop the oil pan to get to it


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[Auto Parts Guy]

All i see in the Bentley is this (not much help):

0627190540.jpg

[JimLev]

If you remove the alternator it will give you more room.

[MotorMouth93]

Number 18 looks like a nut holding the bolt from inside the oil pan, looks to me like you’d need to drop the oil pan to get to it


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18 is a crush washer.

[Bruhbrahbrad]

Yeah 18 is just a washer, I got the bolt off on the junkyard car, didnt take the alternator off though.. couldnt get much movement in the line with out taking the alternator off.. Looks like thats the only way.

[DennisG01]

Speaking a bit out of turn here, but... given this hose isn't under much pressure, what about making your own? Use a rubber line the entire way to the banjo bolt. I'm guessing the existing rubber line is swaged to the banjo bolt? Cut the swaging off and use a stainless clamp. Are there any heat issues along the way that would be a no-no for the rubber line?

[JimLev]

Speaking a bit out of turn here, but... given this hose isn't under much pressure, what about making your own? Use a rubber line the entire way to the banjo

That would work OK as long as the hose is rated for oil use.
This line is only used to drain the canister when you remove the cap on the filter housing.

[DennisG01]

That would work OK as long as the hose is rated for oil use.
This line is only used to drain the canister when you remove the cap on the filter housing.

You're right - true "rubber" hose would be no good. But fuel hose would work, right? Both fuel and oil being petroleum products?

[JimLev]

Yes, fuel and oil would work.

[Bruhbrahbrad]

Speaking a bit out of turn here, but... given this hose isn't under much pressure, what about making your own? Use a rubber line the entire way to the banjo bolt. I'm guessing the existing rubber line is swaged to the banjo bolt? Cut the swaging off and use a stainless clamp. Are there any heat issues along the way that would be a no-no for the rubber line?

That sounds like a good idea. It might just be a little difficult to cut off the "swaging" as it's right under the valve cover and what not but I could cut that off and run a new hose as suggested itd still be easier than taking all that apart for a new hose I imagine. I wonder what to cut it with? I don't wanna use something that's gonna crush the piping down when I cut

[DennisG01]

I was originally thinking of doing the cutting once you get the hose out. But if you're still having problems getting the hose out, can you cut the hose/pipe into more manageable pieces and remove it that way?

What part of that assembly is the metal piece? I can't quite tell from the picture. Is it the 'loopy' piece from the #15 to the banjo bolt? When I first looked at that pic, I thought that part was a rubber hose for some reason.

But to answer your question, probably the easiest tool would be a Dremel with a cutoff wheel. Good tool to have, if you don't already have one. Otherwise a hacksaw, around the circumference would work.

Here's another idea. Cut the metal pipe "somewhere" and maybe you can slide the new rubber hose OVER the pipe. With a little hi-temp RTV and a clamp (not too tight), that'll be leak free.

Just throwing out some 'off the top of my head' ideas. I don't have a 540 so I can't quite envision exactly what you're up against.

[Bruhbrahbrad]

I was originally thinking of doing the cutting once you get the hose out. But if you're still having problems getting the hose out, can you cut the hose/pipe into more manageable pieces and remove it that way?

What part of that assembly is the metal piece? I can't quite tell from the picture. Is it the 'loopy' piece from the #15 to the banjo bolt? When I first looked at that pic, I thought that part was a rubber hose for some reason.

But to answer your question, probably the easiest tool would be a Dremel with a cutoff wheel. Good tool to have, if you don't already have one. Otherwise a hacksaw, around the circumference would work.

Here's another idea. Cut the metal pipe "somewhere" and maybe you can slide the new rubber hose OVER the pipe. With a little hi-temp RTV and a clamp (not too tight), that'll be leak free.

Just throwing out some 'off the top of my head' ideas. I don't have a 540 so I can't quite envision exactly what you're up against.

Yeah im gonna use my dremel to cut the swaging off and run a new acceptable rubber hose to the pipe. That's probably the easiest route. Thanks for the help!

[DennisG01]

Sounds like a plan!
Question... you said "Its broken where the rubber meets the metal line" Is something actually broken, or by broken do you mean leaking? If it's leaking, is it leaking out the fitting... as if the swaging is no longer tight enough?

[Bruhbrahbrad]

Yeah that rubber hose has like a pipe inside of it that connects to that "swaging" and its separated from the hardline of the pipe

[DennisG01]

So the rubber hose has slipped off of the nipple... in other words, the swaging loosened up? That does happen, sometimes. IF the rubber hose is in good shape, another thing you could do: Use the Dremel and cut longitudinal slits - say 2 or 3 around the perimeter of the swage - but stop short of the "bubble" portion of the swage. Now put a hose clamp over the swaged area and tighten the clamp... which, because of the slits, will now tighten down on the rubber. Again, IF the rubber is in good shape.