2006 BMW 325i N52 Engine
147XXX miles
Diagram of Engine: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1503597
Parts used:
1. NGK (1208) ILZFR6D11 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs
2. MAHLE VS50533 valve cover gasket
3. Victor Reinz Valve Cover Screw Set
Repairs done:
Replaced spark plugs
Replaced valve cover gasket
Backstory:
The car started to idle roughly and hesitate while driving. Soon after I got a misfire in two cylinders.
When I went to replace the spark plugs I noticed cyl 1/3 had oil in the cylinder well. So, I changed the
valve cover gasket. However, I forgot to tighten the 3 middle 10mm bolts (22 bolts total) that held on the valve cover.
All bolts are 10Nm + 90deg
I tried to start the car before I realized the the bolts were loose. It would not crank. NOOOO!
After tightening the 3 bolts I left loose, I tried to crank again. No luck
I checked the spark plug cylinder wells and the valve cover to oil leaks - there was none.
I pulled out the spark plugs, and every one of them had what looked like oil/black residue on the electrodes, not the threads.
I cleaned all of them off, and tried to crank again - no luck
I pulled out the spark plugs again, and all of them had the same oil/black residue on them?
I'm assuming the problem cranking the car has to do with the spark plug electrodes having oil/residue on them - at least
that's my first guess.
Any help would be awesome!
Of course the real question is was the engine running ok before the work, because if it was, then something you have done has caused it. So then you have to go back and throughly check your work
Yeah, it was running OK before.
I took the valve cover off again to check my work. I didn't see any indication of leaks or pinching of the gaskets.
I'm just puzzled how the spark plug electrodes are getting oil/trash on them, and what the next step in diagnosing the problem is.
Thanks
Are those spark plugs the correct plugs? Modern BMW engines seem to run poorly with the wrong plugs.
Something not fully plugged in
I've read some posts on spark plugs. Someone had suggested a gap of .044" instead of the shipped .040 gap.
I also ordered some new ones (NGK (6619) LFR6AIX-11) that have been confirmed to work on a forum by a couple owners of my same year/engine.
When I finish getting the valve cover back on again, I will try that.
@jclausen
Do you mean you think that a sensor isn't plugged in correctly, or an electronic engine component?
I looked at all the connections the first time around. I didn't see any loose ends though. Anything in particular
you can suggest that would cause my issues?
Thanks for the responses
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