hey everybody, my car recently started overheating right after the water pump and thermostat were replaced, also used the right stuff distilled water and bmw coolant, the car overheats slightly after oil temp gauge is up to operating temp in stop and go traffic but not in idle or expressway, coolant gauge goes passed half way but never really goes passed the second dot and usually after 20 seconds or so the gauge returns to the middle where its supposed to be at all times and also seems to happen when the ac is on and this goes on, i thought maybe the clutch fan was bad since it seemed like it wasnt spinning fast enough when the engine was hot, so i replaced it for a new one and still same issues. not sure if i used bad quality water pump or tstat i bought them from fcp euro ill throw a couple of links also i dont have any lights on the dash but i scanned the car with carly adapter and pulled a code 69 engine temperature plausibility. i appreciate any help i can get figuring this one out
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...at-11531318274
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...m3-11517838159
Last edited by nyklus; 06-26-2019 at 05:20 PM.
Welcome to the Forum!
Well the most common mistake would be not properly bleeding out the system, as that tends to cause overheating.
What process did you use in the bleeding? Did you have the front of the car raised, with the ignition on, and heater set to max temps?
Now the M-3 water temp gauge isn't buffered as much as other BMW's so when it hits 190-200 degrees, it will come off center in comparison to the stock 210-220 degrees.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Hi, Well I probably didn’t bleed the system properly. I did open the bleeder screw with the engine idling and saw a steady stream of coolant coming out, thought it was ok. My question should this be done with the engine cold or could it be done with the engine warm as well?, also my heater doesn’t work but this was an issue before the water pump was replaced, I only seem to get ambient air with the heat in the max setting, will prevent me from bleeding the system properly?
Yes and yes, I would check the fan clutch operation also
The correct procedure is here.
04M3 TiAg 69k slick-top 3 pedal
99M3 Cosmos 61k S50B32 euro 6Spd
88M3 AW 43k miles Project FS
WTB: 3.5" Eurosport/Conforti CAI
so i found why my heater isnt blowing hot air and i hope someone can answer why anyone would do this in the first place and whats the use for it. someone (previews owner i guess) has plugged one of the water valve hoses thats supposed to be attached to the water valve and blocked both ends, why? i wish i knew. i could reverse it but i dont know what would happen if i did. my only theory is that the valve is seized open and instead of replacing it they just plugged it in order to have ac. my question is can i still properly bleed the system of air with this system plugged?
IMG_E4219.JPG
Last edited by nyklus; 06-29-2019 at 07:01 PM.
If both ends are plugged, that would tell me there is a problem with the heater core.
Yes, it might make it harder to bleed, but check this like to help with the bleeding process: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...6#post23416186
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
thanks for the reply, i will do the bleeding process on the weekend, frankly i don't care much about the heater since i live in miami fl and is summer here all of the time, but a working heater would come in handy if the engine overheated or in need of bleeding the cooling system of air
i have the same issue with my cars water temps but with AC on only.
The complete cooling system has been replaced with OE parts and the radiator only has 37,000km on it and is clean. Going to change the AC drier as the condenser was replaced a year back with an OE unit.
EURO 04 M3 Current Mods: GC DA's, Eibach ARB's, INTRAVEE II + Alpine KCA-420i, Depo's, Screen protector for OEM 16:9 display, VCSL Bumper + Race Lip + CF Boot + CF Rear Diffusor, DIETZ TV in Motion, Z8 Starter Button, BBS CHs, Lamin-X, STORM SMG Paddles, RE RTABs/RCAs, OEM CSL Interior, OEM CSL Intake, M3 CSL HP DME, TTFS Tune, STOPTECH ST40's, FXR 3.0 Projectors, SS Stepped headers + Catless S Pipes + Res X-Pipe + Sport Muffler, OEM CSL Roof, OEM CSL Steering.
I also have a similar issue. I’ve logged the temps and the highest they’ve ever gone is 213, which is just past the second dot. Dot to dot is 175-210. The middle is buffered at 190-200
It happens when cruising with AC on but ironically not so much when I’m pushing it on a curvy road...
EURO 04 M3 Current Mods: GC DA's, Eibach ARB's, INTRAVEE II + Alpine KCA-420i, Depo's, Screen protector for OEM 16:9 display, VCSL Bumper + Race Lip + CF Boot + CF Rear Diffusor, DIETZ TV in Motion, Z8 Starter Button, BBS CHs, Lamin-X, STORM SMG Paddles, RE RTABs/RCAs, OEM CSL Interior, OEM CSL Intake, M3 CSL HP DME, TTFS Tune, STOPTECH ST40's, FXR 3.0 Projectors, SS Stepped headers + Catless S Pipes + Res X-Pipe + Sport Muffler, OEM CSL Roof, OEM CSL Steering.
That's one way of putting a band-aid on the system, would suck in the winter time though.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
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