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Thread: e46 m3 overheating

  1. #1
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    e46 m3 overheating

    hey everybody, my car recently started overheating right after the water pump and thermostat were replaced, also used the right stuff distilled water and bmw coolant, the car overheats slightly after oil temp gauge is up to operating temp in stop and go traffic but not in idle or expressway, coolant gauge goes passed half way but never really goes passed the second dot and usually after 20 seconds or so the gauge returns to the middle where its supposed to be at all times and also seems to happen when the ac is on and this goes on, i thought maybe the clutch fan was bad since it seemed like it wasnt spinning fast enough when the engine was hot, so i replaced it for a new one and still same issues. not sure if i used bad quality water pump or tstat i bought them from fcp euro ill throw a couple of links also i dont have any lights on the dash but i scanned the car with carly adapter and pulled a code 69 engine temperature plausibility. i appreciate any help i can get figuring this one out

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...at-11531318274
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...m3-11517838159

    Last edited by nyklus; 06-26-2019 at 05:20 PM.

  2. #2
    dworthy's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Forum!

    Well the most common mistake would be not properly bleeding out the system, as that tends to cause overheating.

    What process did you use in the bleeding? Did you have the front of the car raised, with the ignition on, and heater set to max temps?

    Now the M-3 water temp gauge isn't buffered as much as other BMW's so when it hits 190-200 degrees, it will come off center in comparison to the stock 210-220 degrees.
    Darin
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  3. #3
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    Hi, Well I probably didn’t bleed the system properly. I did open the bleeder screw with the engine idling and saw a steady stream of coolant coming out, thought it was ok. My question should this be done with the engine cold or could it be done with the engine warm as well?, also my heater doesn’t work but this was an issue before the water pump was replaced, I only seem to get ambient air with the heat in the max setting, will prevent me from bleeding the system properly?

  4. #4
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    Yes and yes, I would check the fan clutch operation also

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jclausen View Post
    Yes and yes, I would check the fan clutch operation also
    I replaced the fan clutch


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by nyklus View Post
    I didn’t bleed the system properly then. I did open the bleeder screw while the car was idling, saw a steady stream of coolant come out of the bleeder, thought it was ok. I’ll try to bleed it properly, should the engine be cold or can it be done after a drive?
    The correct procedure is here.
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  7. #7
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    so i found why my heater isnt blowing hot air and i hope someone can answer why anyone would do this in the first place and whats the use for it. someone (previews owner i guess) has plugged one of the water valve hoses thats supposed to be attached to the water valve and blocked both ends, why? i wish i knew. i could reverse it but i dont know what would happen if i did. my only theory is that the valve is seized open and instead of replacing it they just plugged it in order to have ac. my question is can i still properly bleed the system of air with this system plugged?


    IMG_E4219.JPG
    Last edited by nyklus; 06-29-2019 at 07:01 PM.

  8. #8
    dworthy's Avatar
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    If both ends are plugged, that would tell me there is a problem with the heater core.

    Yes, it might make it harder to bleed, but check this like to help with the bleeding process: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...6#post23416186
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  9. #9
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    thanks for the reply, i will do the bleeding process on the weekend, frankly i don't care much about the heater since i live in miami fl and is summer here all of the time, but a working heater would come in handy if the engine overheated or in need of bleeding the cooling system of air

  10. #10
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    i have the same issue with my cars water temps but with AC on only.

    The complete cooling system has been replaced with OE parts and the radiator only has 37,000km on it and is clean. Going to change the AC drier as the condenser was replaced a year back with an OE unit.

    EURO 04 M3
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  11. #11
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    I also have a similar issue. I’ve logged the temps and the highest they’ve ever gone is 213, which is just past the second dot. Dot to dot is 175-210. The middle is buffered at 190-200

    It happens when cruising with AC on but ironically not so much when I’m pushing it on a curvy road...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jsalicru View Post
    I also have a similar issue. I’ve logged the temps and the highest they’ve ever gone is 213, which is just past the second dot. Dot to dot is 175-210. The middle is buffered at 190-200

    It happens when cruising with AC on but ironically not so much when I’m pushing it on a curvy road...
    Yeah that is why when my car starts to overheat and move past the half way mark it starts from 94c and goes up to 98-99c

    EURO 04 M3
    Current Mods: GC DA's, Eibach ARB's, INTRAVEE II + Alpine KCA-420i, Depo's, Screen protector for OEM 16:9 display, VCSL Bumper + Race Lip + CF Boot + CF Rear Diffusor, DIETZ TV in Motion, Z8 Starter Button, BBS CHs, Lamin-X, STORM SMG Paddles, RE RTABs/RCAs, OEM CSL Interior, OEM CSL Intake, M3 CSL HP DME, TTFS Tune, STOPTECH ST40's, FXR 3.0 Projectors, SS Stepped headers + Catless S Pipes + Res X-Pipe + Sport Muffler, OEM CSL Roof, OEM CSL Steering.



  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by nyklus View Post
    so i found why my heater isnt blowing hot air and i hope someone can answer why anyone would do this in the first place and whats the use for it. someone (previews owner i guess) has plugged one of the water valve hoses thats supposed to be attached to the water valve and blocked both ends, why? i wish i knew. i could reverse it but i dont know what would happen if i did. my only theory is that the valve is seized open and instead of replacing it they just plugged it in order to have ac. my question is can i still properly bleed the system of air with this system plugged?


    IMG_E4219.JPG
    Loop the inlet and outlet back to themselves and you should be fine

    At least I think lol

    Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk

  14. #14
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    That's one way of putting a band-aid on the system, would suck in the winter time though.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

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